Most of my locomotives are Stewart F units with Kato drives in them. Recently I decided to purchase some 'new' engines. I purchased three Intermountain EMD F units. I must say their quality control is really lacking.
The pilots were not attached to the bodies. They were hanging on the coupler. There were sections of windshields missing. On one engine the wires going to the front truck were not attached to the front truck. Both of them were just dangling above the truck.
The DCC decoders were abysmal. Trying to set acceleration and de-acceleration were an exercise in futility. Trying to set anything was futile. There were no real instructions with the locomotives (not even the brand or model of the decoders) and the online instuctions were short and confusing. I ended up replacing the decoders with TCS decoders.
These were the first 'new' engines I have bought in a long time. These three from Intermountain might not be typical of their product, but I'll stick with my Stewart/Kato engines.
BRAKIE Doughless Tweeking locos to perform the same is just part of the hobby. So when one run of loco doesn't perform like the previous run of loco, I don't get all upset at the producer. I can see tweeking a low ball engines but,not today's preimum locomotives. My last new Atlas was the DCC ready SCL Alco S-2 and it seems to be another great Atlas engine. I haven't looked at the motor since the engine ran smooth from the box-its that "If it ain't broke don't fix it" thingy. Oddly I almost didn't buy this engine because I wasn't sure if SCL still had S-2s in service in 77/78 but,the price was very reasonable and its such a pretty thing.
Doughless Tweeking locos to perform the same is just part of the hobby. So when one run of loco doesn't perform like the previous run of loco, I don't get all upset at the producer.
I can see tweeking a low ball engines but,not today's preimum locomotives.
My last new Atlas was the DCC ready SCL Alco S-2 and it seems to be another great Atlas engine. I haven't looked at the motor since the engine ran smooth from the box-its that "If it ain't broke don't fix it" thingy.
Oddly I almost didn't buy this engine because I wasn't sure if SCL still had S-2s in service in 77/78 but,the price was very reasonable and its such a pretty thing.
Your S2 will run differently than a Red Box S2. Of course, they are different models.
Try the running qualities of various runs of LL/Walthers GP20s. I think they made about 4 or 5 different runs. New PC boards every run, and now Walthers changes the truck design, yet the shells are exactly the same.
I have over a dozen Atlas GP38/40s dating back from the 1999 run to about 2012. Atlas went from a PC board, to a 2 function decoder, 2 different 4 function decoders, then when they split into sound/nonsound, changed the pc board again. Now the newest run has a different motor. But over those 12 years, the shells and details are exactly the same, not being able to tell which run its from if you didn't check their website.
I'm not complaining or bashing producers, its just the reality of business.
- Douglas
I don't have any Atlas locos, so few of their locos are in my era, and I stayed with older Proto for GP7's, ALCO S switchers, FM is not really of interest to me.....
But more importantly, they always seem hard to find in the versions I want....and generally a little higher priced than Proto.
Most of my diesel fleet is pre Walthers Proto, and they all run great. As indicated easlier, most of my F units are Intermountain and Genesis.
Atlas was one of the first to get real serious with the preorder thing, and I am mostly interested in undecorated, which seem hard to find from Atlas.
As was commented earlier, it does not matter how good they are if they don't have what you want.
Sheldon
DoughlessTweeking locos to perform the same is just part of the hobby. So when one run of loco doesn't perform like the previous run of loco, I don't get all upset at the producer.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
PRR8259 ATLANTIC CENTRAL And I agree completely, I will learn how to make something work rather than restrict my choices - I rebuilt two bad running BLI USRA Heavy Mikados - its the only game in town.........other than hunting for brass........ People still knock Bachmann, but most of my Spectrum steamers only need the most minor fixes to make them superb running locos. $100 and a few simple mods, I'm all in, give me 10 more. Sheldon Sheldon-- The Oriental Limited Powerhouse USRA 2-8-2 Series engines, a much earlier series of "hybrids", routinely show up at train shows for prices not that much more than BLI mikados, and they were somewhat better looking, better detailed engines built by Samhongsa at a good time in Samhongsa's production history. I only owned the USRA 2-8-8-2's, but they were fantastic--had the same drive mechanisms in them as $2000 full on brass articulateds. Did you ever consider them???? John
ATLANTIC CENTRAL And I agree completely, I will learn how to make something work rather than restrict my choices - I rebuilt two bad running BLI USRA Heavy Mikados - its the only game in town.........other than hunting for brass........ People still knock Bachmann, but most of my Spectrum steamers only need the most minor fixes to make them superb running locos. $100 and a few simple mods, I'm all in, give me 10 more. Sheldon
And I agree completely, I will learn how to make something work rather than restrict my choices - I rebuilt two bad running BLI USRA Heavy Mikados - its the only game in town.........other than hunting for brass........
People still knock Bachmann, but most of my Spectrum steamers only need the most minor fixes to make them superb running locos. $100 and a few simple mods, I'm all in, give me 10 more.
Sheldon--
The Oriental Limited Powerhouse USRA 2-8-2 Series engines, a much earlier series of "hybrids", routinely show up at train shows for prices not that much more than BLI mikados, and they were somewhat better looking, better detailed engines built by Samhongsa at a good time in Samhongsa's production history. I only owned the USRA 2-8-8-2's, but they were fantastic--had the same drive mechanisms in them as $2000 full on brass articulateds.
Did you ever consider them????
John
The Powerhouse locos are USRA Light Mikados, BLI makes both a light and a heavy, I have two of the heavies.
I do have a Powerhouse USRA Light Pacific, nice loco, but for the ATLANTIC CENTRAL it now has a long haul oil tender originally on a Spectrum KCS 2-10-2.....
Ed--
The earlier brass diesels had some nylon gears that would crack. Also, for noise reasons some folks alternated metal and nylon gears...
I don't regear diesels myself, but Northwest Short Line should be able to help you out with what you will need.
Tom;
I purchased two FM H20-44's (Alco/Samhongsa) back in the early '80's...had them painted P&WV and they both developed split gears (delrin plastic?) after little running. That was years ago. I've been out of the hobby for decades but crawling back now. Have you any info to share on source/type of replacement gears? My only other brass diesel is a Hallmark EMD E-3/6 which I planned to paint as SAL citrus scheme...never got around to it.
I appreciate the many informative comments on this site.
Ed
riogrande5761 PRR8259 I've never had another manufacturer's units fight each other that much as the Athearns. Even running elephant style they had issues. With the rtr SD40's of several years ago, every single unit ran at a different speed, too. It was maddening. I had 3 ICG orange (but way too brown) and white units, and 2 Western Maryland units. I have tried a lot of Athearns. For me, I prefer just about everything else. John My problem is I am an SP and D&RGW fan and Athearn, to-date, is the only maker of affordable plastic prototype specific SD45T-2's, SD40R's, SD45R's, SD40T-2's etc. so everything else will not work. I'm not going to dump all my favorite trains to switch to some other brand, or brass x, y or z that I don't care for. Intermountain has tunnel motors on the list to produce but so far they are a more than a year behind the original release date and they will be mega expensive; it might actually still be cheaper to buy the Athearn remotoring kit if necessary on some units. Admittedly I have limited running experience, but the Athearn SD45's I've run so far didn't seem to fight each other and run smoothly and quietly.
PRR8259 I've never had another manufacturer's units fight each other that much as the Athearns. Even running elephant style they had issues. With the rtr SD40's of several years ago, every single unit ran at a different speed, too. It was maddening. I had 3 ICG orange (but way too brown) and white units, and 2 Western Maryland units. I have tried a lot of Athearns. For me, I prefer just about everything else. John
I've never had another manufacturer's units fight each other that much as the Athearns. Even running elephant style they had issues.
With the rtr SD40's of several years ago, every single unit ran at a different speed, too. It was maddening. I had 3 ICG orange (but way too brown) and white units, and 2 Western Maryland units.
I have tried a lot of Athearns. For me, I prefer just about everything else.
My problem is I am an SP and D&RGW fan and Athearn, to-date, is the only maker of affordable plastic prototype specific SD45T-2's, SD40R's, SD45R's, SD40T-2's etc. so everything else will not work. I'm not going to dump all my favorite trains to switch to some other brand, or brass x, y or z that I don't care for.
Intermountain has tunnel motors on the list to produce but so far they are a more than a year behind the original release date and they will be mega expensive; it might actually still be cheaper to buy the Athearn remotoring kit if necessary on some units. Admittedly I have limited running experience, but the Athearn SD45's I've run so far didn't seem to fight each other and run smoothly and quietly.
BRAKIE Doughless ATLANTIC CENTRAL Also, the design of the a particular motor, combined with the waveform of a particular throttle, can eliminate or exaggerate such problems. No amount of "standards" can forsee all these conditions, so it will always be a "modelers" hobby for all these little details - in my view.....Stuff will need "tweeking". Sheldon Well said. Perhaps but,the need to tweak a high dollar engines is more then enough to question why that is even necessary when the other manufacturers got it right?
Doughless ATLANTIC CENTRAL Also, the design of the a particular motor, combined with the waveform of a particular throttle, can eliminate or exaggerate such problems. No amount of "standards" can forsee all these conditions, so it will always be a "modelers" hobby for all these little details - in my view.....Stuff will need "tweeking". Sheldon Well said.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Also, the design of the a particular motor, combined with the waveform of a particular throttle, can eliminate or exaggerate such problems. No amount of "standards" can forsee all these conditions, so it will always be a "modelers" hobby for all these little details - in my view.....Stuff will need "tweeking". Sheldon
Also, the design of the a particular motor, combined with the waveform of a particular throttle, can eliminate or exaggerate such problems.
No amount of "standards" can forsee all these conditions, so it will always be a "modelers" hobby for all these little details - in my view.....Stuff will need "tweeking".
Perhaps but,the need to tweak a high dollar engines is more then enough to question why that is even necessary when the other manufacturers got it right?
Larry, if you are making this statement in reference only to light bulbs, I agree. I think most people wish that Athearn would switch to LEDs.
But I took Sheldon's comment in a broader context, that not all locomotives, even of the same model within the same brand, will always work the same. Too many variables. Too many changes.
What if Athearn's motor supplier began buying magnets from a different supplier? Would the next run of Genesis F unit run exactly the same as the last run? What if you use a Tech 6, and I use an NCE wireless, or a DC power pack?
I love Atlas products, with the GP38/40 being my favorite. But recently, Atlas changed motor suppliers, switching from the old black Kato looking motor to a silver, smaller, looking motor. And with the changes almost annually to the pc board, I wouldn't expect every GP38 to run the same as another gp38, even when I use the same throttle for both. Adjusting CVs might not provide the same result.
That's my beef with the electronics side of the hobby, as far as locomotives. The PC boards keep changing. I expect decoders do also with each "upgrade".
Tweeking locos to perform the same is just part of the hobby. So when one run of loco doesn't perform like the previous run of loco, I don't get all upset at the producer.
But as far as lightbulbs, yeah, I think Athearn should move to the pack.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
BRAKIE Doughless ATLANTIC CENTRAL Also, the design of the a particular motor, combined with the waveform of a particular throttle, can eliminate or exaggerate such problems. No amount of "standards" can forsee all these conditions, so it will always be a "modelers" hobby for all these little details - in my view.....Stuff will need "tweeking". Sheldon Well said. Perhaps but,the need to tweak a high dollar engines is more then enough to question why that is even necessary when the other manufacturers got it right? I can take a Atlas DCC/Sound locomotive out of its box,set my favorite CVs,select the horn and bell ring rate and three months from now all the headlights will still be working. My Bachmann DCC/Sound S4 I got last year still has working lights. My Athearn Genesis DCC/Sound GP9 bulbs blew one at a time yet,this is supposed to be their top line of locomotives.
I can take a Atlas DCC/Sound locomotive out of its box,set my favorite CVs,select the horn and bell ring rate and three months from now all the headlights will still be working.
My Bachmann DCC/Sound S4 I got last year still has working lights.
My Athearn Genesis DCC/Sound GP9 bulbs blew one at a time yet,this is supposed to be their top line of locomotives.
But Larry, my throttles will not even work with dual mode decoders, so I'm in a completely different world. If you try to run a decoder equiped loco with the Aristo Train Engineer, it has two speeds, off and full throttle, and that's if it will run at all. The Aristo output is pulse width modulated, and the decoders hate it.
This extended discussion has ben about surging and MU issues on DC, not about the headlights anyway........
AGREED, ATHEARN SHOULD FIX THE HEADLIGHT ISSUE.
BRAKIEI can take a Atlas DCC/Sound locomotive out of its box,set my favorite CVs,select the horn and bell ring rate and three months from now all the headlights will still be working.
That's because Atlas uses LEDs for their lighting. While I like and prefer incandescents for lighting structures and buildings, for headlights - give me LEDs everytime.
I also like the focused beam of light of an LED; whereas incandescents have a more diffused beam.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Well, what Sheldon is saying makes sense. I didn't know any better, and in all these years I've never had another manufacturer's units fight each other that much as the Athearns. Even running elephant style they had issues.
PRR8259 I stupidly tried to fix the b unit rather than return it and ended up making it worse...sold a without b. So much for attempting to be a real modeler by fixing stuff. Never heard about light bulb thing. However had 3 different a units that themselves would not mu either. Resold 2 promptly and third had early onset wheel plating wear and ran horribly as soon as the plating wore. My solution was to gut it and make it a dummy unit.
I stupidly tried to fix the b unit rather than return it and ended up making it worse...sold a without b. So much for attempting to be a real modeler by fixing stuff.
Never heard about light bulb thing. However had 3 different a units that themselves would not mu either. Resold 2 promptly and third had early onset wheel plating wear and ran horribly as soon as the plating wore. My solution was to gut it and make it a dummy unit.
The light bulb thing will fix it, I'm pretty sure. Even two A units, when they are back to back, one has a headlight on, one does not, it changes the starting voltage slightly, and can make them surge at slow speeds.
It was the only way I could get my remotored superdetailed blue box F units to run the same speed, same lighting circuit in all three with lamps for both directions.
Agreed, I would have taken them right back.
PRR8259Also on my Genesis F units, they smeared the same hard shiny glue on the side of a B unit, thus ruining it (they were allegedly brand new in box from MBK and not somebody's sloppy repair). There was no way to remove said glue without damaging the B unit--I tried.
What you describe above is grounds to return for a replacement or refund, period. It sounds like good ol Athearn QAQC failed there.
John, it has not been a problem for me with Genesis units, but the solution to the inconsistant slow speed surging operation of the mu sets is to install light bulbs on all the light bulb connections on the circuit board in all units, even the B's.
This gives every unit identical voltage charactoristics in both directions.
Never had to do this with a Genesis, but had to do it years ago with can motor remotoring of blue box units.
I often run trains an hour a day...
Ordinarily I would not care about stupid lightbulbs, but when they fail in a high priced Genesis plated finish F unit, as Sheldon has stated above--that we don't want to be handling very much at all, but desire to leave on the layout--it is a royal pain where a pill won't reach to deal with. I've found the lightbulb to be glued in with some kind of hard, shiny, non-water soluble glue (they use a water soluble glue to attach the grills, so normally any excess glue can be removed with warm water). So--in my case, on my Genesis F units--the lights were glued in place and wouldn't come out. The only way to get them out was to drill them out, period. Also on my Genesis F units, they smeared the same hard shiny glue on the side of a B unit, thus ruining it (they were allegedly brand new in box from MBK and not somebody's sloppy repair). There was no way to remove said glue without damaging the B unit--I tried. That combined with units fighting each other, running at different enough speeds to uncouple easily, was just unacceptable for me. My numerous issues with Genesis diesels in particular (ok, I did have one gorgeous GP7) are partly what drove me back to steam era.
On my Athearn Genesis F3's and F7's or any of my trains for that matter, the lights have yet to burn out, I bought them last year and they're still new (all bulbs work). Since many of you are so concerned about the lights going out, I thought it takes a good 5-10 years before that happens. I guess since my trains are only used once in a while ( I'm in a Module Club by the way) this is not much of a problem (at least for me). For those who have permanent layouts and run trains on a daily basis, (Ruby's Diner comes to mind) it will happen much faster depending on how much you use the lights.
PRR8259 The Walthers Proto clearcoat over plating is ahem much more durable for normal real world use. If one runs steam, as I do now, well then any concerns about pristine plated finishes just vanish...that's partly why I went back to steam. So far as the "exclusivity" comment above, I don't necessarily buy brass because it's exclusive but because it is something I want to have. If one wants a plated E-5A, ones' only option is brass. Certain F units have been offered in brass with the large side numberboards, and some late brass F's are actually beautifully done. Likewise, a lot of correct steam models can and will ever only be available in brass. To be honest, other than the Texas & Pacific 2-10-4, which has mass appeal as a Freedom Train engine, as a Southern steam program engine, etc. I very much doubt that any other T&P steamer will ever be offered as a hybrid or in plastic. I like the appearance of certain other engines that will never be offered in plastic. Also, I like the brass handrails of Overland, Challenger, and Oriental Limited diesels. Properly handled they hold up...better than a lot of plastic ones for me. All those are partly reasons why I chose to revert to almost all steam (I have one diesel). Also, as you have noted, I have in the past been guilty as charged of buying anything and everything from every railroad, but since purged and now have only T&P motive power, one Santa Fe blue and yellow warbonnet GP7 for old times sake, and the GN green 4-8-4 that my son wants to keep for himself and won't let me trade or sell. The T&P books are hard to find and I haven't ponied up the cash yet for the best ones. So my focus has narrowed quite a bit. John
The Walthers Proto clearcoat over plating is ahem much more durable for normal real world use. If one runs steam, as I do now, well then any concerns about pristine plated finishes just vanish...that's partly why I went back to steam.
So far as the "exclusivity" comment above, I don't necessarily buy brass because it's exclusive but because it is something I want to have. If one wants a plated E-5A, ones' only option is brass. Certain F units have been offered in brass with the large side numberboards, and some late brass F's are actually beautifully done. Likewise, a lot of correct steam models can and will ever only be available in brass. To be honest, other than the Texas & Pacific 2-10-4, which has mass appeal as a Freedom Train engine, as a Southern steam program engine, etc. I very much doubt that any other T&P steamer will ever be offered as a hybrid or in plastic. I like the appearance of certain other engines that will never be offered in plastic.
Also, I like the brass handrails of Overland, Challenger, and Oriental Limited diesels. Properly handled they hold up...better than a lot of plastic ones for me.
All those are partly reasons why I chose to revert to almost all steam (I have one diesel). Also, as you have noted, I have in the past been guilty as charged of buying anything and everything from every railroad, but since purged and now have only T&P motive power, one Santa Fe blue and yellow warbonnet GP7 for old times sake, and the GN green 4-8-4 that my son wants to keep for himself and won't let me trade or sell. The T&P books are hard to find and I haven't ponied up the cash yet for the best ones.
So my focus has narrowed quite a bit.
John, I get it, I know that if I really want a correct WESTERN MARYLAND Pacific I'm going to have to get up off of $400 for that one loco, I'm fine with that, and that will easily be the most expensive locomotive I own when I do it, unless you count a four unit string of F units as one loco........
But every item on my roster does not have to be that proto specific correct, for reasons I have explained before.
And I like the creative process of "protolancing", it is fun.
PRR8259 I will grant the Protos tend to run slower, and for me, the few Intermountain F's I've had certainly ran fast enough. As far as availability of the particular version(s) of diesels I wanted, I have noticed where it makes sense for Walthers to do so, they do offer road specific detailing--typically on the lower end of the amount of separate road specific detailing--but nevertheless they have offered it very correctly for some units (like early 1980's Santa Fe GP30U's, Santa Fe "rebuilds-in-kind" with the addition of rooftop beacons). So I can say the particular versions of models they have opted to offer as "road specific" versions were on the lower end of the amount of separate, non-standard details versus Genesis--but one can actually say Walthers has offered engines that were correct for individual units that can be photo-verified as existing that way for at least a few years. When Walthers has chosen to offer "road specific" Santa Fe F Units, they deliberately chose "earlier" versions of them, prior to the later period when Santa Fe really started making a lot of changes and just about every F unit was slightly different from every other F unit. So as such, Walthers can factually say they are offering such and such an A-B set from such and such a year, just without too many changes yet as of that date. In contrast, Athearn Genesis has offered numerous very highly detailed, very late F units that are highly accurate for the given road numbers they represent, for example: something like 3 different versions of the Santa Fe Yellow Warbonnet F unit, of which only 15 prototype A units ever existed. Athearn did a super job on the models; unfortunately some of the QA/QC was lacking and the thin clearcoat over the plating easily rubs or scratches off allowing the plated finish to be easily marred...The Genesis blue warbonnet F's were also great, as were many of the Rio Grande units and the Penn Central ex-DRGW versions. It appears to me that Walthers is trying to offer "road specific" models ala Athearn Genesis, but for whatever reason (maybe economic) they are avoiding the all out full blown "accurate to a single road number" level of late F unit detailing. John
I will grant the Protos tend to run slower, and for me, the few Intermountain F's I've had certainly ran fast enough.
As far as availability of the particular version(s) of diesels I wanted, I have noticed where it makes sense for Walthers to do so, they do offer road specific detailing--typically on the lower end of the amount of separate road specific detailing--but nevertheless they have offered it very correctly for some units (like early 1980's Santa Fe GP30U's, Santa Fe "rebuilds-in-kind" with the addition of rooftop beacons). So I can say the particular versions of models they have opted to offer as "road specific" versions were on the lower end of the amount of separate, non-standard details versus Genesis--but one can actually say Walthers has offered engines that were correct for individual units that can be photo-verified as existing that way for at least a few years.
When Walthers has chosen to offer "road specific" Santa Fe F Units, they deliberately chose "earlier" versions of them, prior to the later period when Santa Fe really started making a lot of changes and just about every F unit was slightly different from every other F unit. So as such, Walthers can factually say they are offering such and such an A-B set from such and such a year, just without too many changes yet as of that date.
In contrast, Athearn Genesis has offered numerous very highly detailed, very late F units that are highly accurate for the given road numbers they represent, for example: something like 3 different versions of the Santa Fe Yellow Warbonnet F unit, of which only 15 prototype A units ever existed. Athearn did a super job on the models; unfortunately some of the QA/QC was lacking and the thin clearcoat over the plating easily rubs or scratches off allowing the plated finish to be easily marred...The Genesis blue warbonnet F's were also great, as were many of the Rio Grande units and the Penn Central ex-DRGW versions.
It appears to me that Walthers is trying to offer "road specific" models ala Athearn Genesis, but for whatever reason (maybe economic) they are avoiding the all out full blown "accurate to a single road number" level of late F unit detailing.
John, I would agree with all of that, but none of that effects me much in my modeling.
As for plating/finishes, I'm a big believer in the idea that they are supposed to be on the layout running, not being handled, so I don't buy into any of the "too fragile" arguments, in fact I really dislike how MTH and BLI to some extent will simplify or or over size details for durablity - like the running boards on the MTH Berkshire.....
I've been doing this for 49 years, they are delicate 1/87 scale models. not childrens toys.
I don't collect a bunch of different roadnames from all over the country - every loco I own says ATLANTIC CENTRAL, B&O, C&O or Western Maryland.
But overall, right now, if you go looking for F units, you will find a bigger selection in stock at Intermountain than at Walthers or Athearn. AND, my desired undecorated "as built" kits are always in stock at Intermountain.
I hate the hunt, I hate the preorder, I hate the limited production "game", I accept that I cannot change the way the industry is going, but I give my business as much as I can to companies who make the trains first, then ask for my money.
With only one exception - the nice guys at Spring Mills Depot.........
BRAKIE Sounds good but,still just another cost in fixing what Athearn should have.
Sounds good but,still just another cost in fixing what Athearn should have.
It is the same thing with other manufacturers not using Kadee couplers, for example. You have to be prepared to buy their locos and then change out the couplers.
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain BRAKIE I recently forked over $25.00 to have LEDs installed in my Genesis GP9.To my mind that's fixing a problem Athearn should have fixed by now. The other manufacturers uses LEDs in their DCC ready or DCC/Sound equipped locomotives and that includes Bachmann. But,like I mention I'm thinking about getting a Topeka Cab GP7. After years of replacing and hating the burned out Genesis incandescent bulbs, I took the advice of some smart people on this forum and installed SMD (surface mount device) LEDs in my Athearn Genesis F7A locos. Life has been good ever since. Rich
BRAKIE I recently forked over $25.00 to have LEDs installed in my Genesis GP9.To my mind that's fixing a problem Athearn should have fixed by now. The other manufacturers uses LEDs in their DCC ready or DCC/Sound equipped locomotives and that includes Bachmann. But,like I mention I'm thinking about getting a Topeka Cab GP7.
I recently forked over $25.00 to have LEDs installed in my Genesis GP9.To my mind that's fixing a problem Athearn should have fixed by now. The other manufacturers uses LEDs in their DCC ready or DCC/Sound equipped locomotives and that includes Bachmann. But,like I mention I'm thinking about getting a Topeka Cab GP7.
After years of replacing and hating the burned out Genesis incandescent bulbs, I took the advice of some smart people on this forum and installed SMD (surface mount device) LEDs in my Athearn Genesis F7A locos.
Life has been good ever since.
If and when I buy that Topeka cab Geep 7 I will try lowering the voltage in the start and mid volt with CVs settings.
richhotrain ATLANTIC CENTRAL The difference is simple, DCC decoders vs no decoders. I clocked a three unit Intermountain F unit set just last night at 77 SMPH at 13.5 volts. Prototype top speeds ranged from 55 to 102 depending on gearing, with 65 being "standard". I'll accept that because I have heard that before. Why is that though? My NCE PH-Pro puts out 13.5 volts as well. Rich
ATLANTIC CENTRAL The difference is simple, DCC decoders vs no decoders. I clocked a three unit Intermountain F unit set just last night at 77 SMPH at 13.5 volts. Prototype top speeds ranged from 55 to 102 depending on gearing, with 65 being "standard".
The difference is simple, DCC decoders vs no decoders. I clocked a three unit Intermountain F unit set just last night at 77 SMPH at 13.5 volts. Prototype top speeds ranged from 55 to 102 depending on gearing, with 65 being "standard".
I'll accept that because I have heard that before. Why is that though?
My NCE PH-Pro puts out 13.5 volts as well.
Just a guess, but likely something to do with the pulse width frequency of the decoder and the particular motor they use.