doctorwayne My thanks to Dave and Guy for their generous remarks. If what I show is an inspiration to others or merely enjoyable to view, then that is a bonus for me. I derive a great deal of satisfaction simply enjoying the process of attempting to better my abilities.
My thanks to Dave and Guy for their generous remarks. If what I show is an inspiration to others or merely enjoyable to view, then that is a bonus for me. I derive a great deal of satisfaction simply enjoying the process of attempting to better my abilities.
Wayne,
Always inspiring to see your work. The amount of skill that goes into producing the models in the pics you post is amazing. The photos always get me thinking of projects to work on (the list is already quite long)
BTW: Why aren't you published?? Or have I missed the articles?
The other Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
This is a pair of Tichy box cars I built:
I built one wood-side one and one metal-side one. I bought them undecorated and decaled them myself for "hide service only" at the tannery. Hide service cars were typically very old boxcars. Once used to transport hides from the slaughterhouse to the tannery, you really couldn't ship anything else in them because of the smell, so they remained dedicated to that task. I weathered mine accordingly.
I like the challenge of Tichy kits. They do have lots of tiny parts. Unlike many kits, the brake detail is not molded to the underside but rather applied separately, so you get a sprue of brake parts, a couple of different diameters of wire and a brief lesson in how these things all went together.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
tstageQuestion for you, Dave: When you've tried the "fresh" #11 X-acto blade method, are you trying to cut through the sprue by pressing down on it?
Hi Tom:
I have to admit that I was pressing down on the blade. I was supporting the sprue and part as best I could. I didn't break huge numbers of parts but I do find the sprue cutters easier and more consistent.
I will agree that the sprue cutters leave a tiny bit of the sprue on the parts. Up until now, the size of the remaining sprue hasn't been large enough to bother me, and most can be cleaned off with a sharp blade. However, every time I look at Wayne's work I cringe when thinking about my own. I have to hike my pants up! I've made lots of wire grab irons so I'll have to see if I have the patience to do what Wayne suggests i.e. throw the plastic ones in the garbage. I'm not sure I'm quite that concerned about the size of my grab irons.
Just out of curiousity, I'm going to try the heated #11 blade method, but I haven't quite figured out how to heat the blade. I don't like the ideal of having a propane torch burning for long periods, and it would likely get the blade too hot anyhow. Perhaps a hot soldering iron might do the trick. I'll let you know.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Other than the Proto cars, all of the models shown were undecorated when purchased. Some were acquired when the manufacturers still offered undecorate kits, but others were bought quite recently, from train shows or estate lots at my LHS. The SFRD steel reefer kit (one of two on my layout) was purchased from Intermountain through my LHS and is likely still available. Accurail kits are almost all available in undecorated form, as are many Bowser kits.Even Rapido and Tangent offer undecorated kits of their r-t-r cars, usually at a bit of a saving over the r-t-r versions.Here's a Rapido meat reefer, built from an undecorated kit and lettered for my freelanced line:
...and Tangent's 6,000 gallon tank car kit:
Wayne
Thank you all for the replies. I will certainly give a try at Ticky kits as Fall projects and let you know how it turned out.
Guy,
" Ticky kits are great but they are unpainted and you apply the decals. That is a large leap from Accurail kits."
That is exactly what I want.
"For tanks, go with the Proto 2000, either 10k or 8k tanks. These can be fiddly but they are doable and they do build up into very nice models."
I have already built four of them. Two having been paint striped, repainted and decaled. There is some silvering around the decals due to bad paint selection but I will do better next time.
Tom (tstage),
''Having said all that, I REALLY like the Accurail 6- & 8-panel wood boxcars. While the underframe details maybe a bit spartan, I think the boxcar portion is quite handsome. And the price is hard to beat."
I completely agree.
JaBear,
"...working on the theory that a picture is worth a thousand words, this one may be more around the 250 words mark."
I would say at least 900 words. It clearly shows the number of parts and the level of complexity of the kit.
"I find that sprue nippers will break certain small parts and that I have much more luck with a single edge razor blade or an exacto blade. I never bothered with the heated blade. The key is to support the piece from underneath."
I have had similar experience. Although I would use sprue nippers in some circumstances, I found the #11 blade and a support being the right tools for the smallest parts. Just be aware of flying parts never to be found.
Dave,
"Looking at Wayne's work is always humbling."
Wayne's work (cars, locomotives, structures or scenery) is also inspiring, even if I know I will never develop such level of skill. I wonder why we don't see his outstanding work in MR.
b60bp,
"It's easy to misapply glue on this sort of kit, and while it can ruin the looks of a prepainted car, on an Undecorated car you'll be painting over minor mishaps. Once you're more accustomed to these kits try one of the nicely decorated ones."
Good point.
Guy
Modeling CNR in the 50's
Guy, the Tichy kits are very nice. They require some work but it's not really tedious. If you're not used to the more involved kits a Tichy car might be a lot better bet than an InterMountain or Red Caboose just because it is unpainted. It's easy to misapply glue on this sort of kit, and while it can ruin the looks of a prepainted car, on an Undecorated car you'll be painting over minor mishaps. Once you're more accustomed to these kits try one of the nicely decorated ones.
Worked for me anyway.
Looking at Wayne's work is always humbling. I am particularly impressed with his fine application of dry transfers to a tank car body. I'd like to watch him do that because I'm not sure I'd know where to start in terms of securing the car body enough to burnish the transfers without damaging it or fine details.
Dave Nelson
I would suggest, for kits which include separately-applied plastic grabirons, that you simply dispose of the grabs completely, and instead replace them with formed wire parts. All such plastic grabs which I've encountered are overly thick, and much more difficult to handle than similar details in metal.Tichy kits generally supply preformed wire grabirons (they're also available separately in packages of 100 from Tichy) and wire for the brake rigging.
Here's a Tichy tank car ready for paint (any of the photos can be enlarged to full screen size by clicking on them, then clicking on the magnifying glass icon which appears at the top right corner of the image in the photobucket screen view):
...and a couple in service (decals from Black Cat):
This is a Proto tank car, built from a kit, but with metal grabs replacing the oversize plastic ones. Lettering is dry transfers from C-D-S:
A Mather stock car, a kit also from Proto, and with wire parts replacing the plastic ones where appropriate. Lettering is custom dry transfers from C-D-S:
Another option for stock cars is the simple kit from Central Valley:
Another Proto car, this one a r-t-r Proto1000 kit for the Dominion/Fowler 36' boxcar. These cars came with free-standing plastic grabs, but they were all overly thick. Since the width of the grabs is a non-standard size, I replaced them using ones custom-bent from Detail Associates .012" soft brass wire:
Here's a Tichy USRA single sheathed boxcar (dry transfer lettering from C-D-S):
...and Tichy's version of the same car as a steel re-build (C-D-S lettering):
A Red Caboose kit for Pennsy/REA express boxcar. This one was built to match a prototype car still in existence. Decals are from Champ:
This is Tichy's kit for the PFE R-40-2 wood-sided reefer (Champ decals):
...and Red Caboose's kit for PFE's R-30-12-9 wood-sided reefer (Champ decals):
This one is an Accurail kit, modified to more closely ressemble SFRD's RR-4 version of the USRA wood reefer. I used some Intermountain details, and decals from Champ, Microscale, and C&BT Shops:
This is Intermountain's version of the same car, rebuilt as SFRD's all-steel RR-23. Same decals used as on the wood version:
Other useful and inexpensive kits can be had from the old Athearn Blue Box series and from MDC and Train Miniature. With a few added details, such as metal grabs and sill steps, and perhaps some more detailed brake gear, and then painted and lettered for your favourite road, they can provide useful and attractive additions to your rolling stock.
I find that sprue nippers will break certain small parts and that I have much more luck with a single edge razor blade or an exacto blade. I never bothered with the heated blade. The key is to support the piece from underneath. The sprue holds the part off of the surface slightly. I use the corner of a block of wood to support the piece while cutting. I break very few parts this way. I wrote an article for another magazine a couple of years ago outlining some techniques for batch building this type of car……
Here is a P2k mather stock car:
hon30critter I had previously tried the fresh single edge razor blade with mixed results (in other words I broke several pieces). I also tried a fresh #11 blade - same results. I will admit that I have never tried heating a #11 blade, but done carefully I can see that it would work. The challenge is how to heat the blade consistently. Getting it too hot would cause major problems. I can just see the grab irons melting before my eyes. Dave
I had previously tried the fresh single edge razor blade with mixed results (in other words I broke several pieces). I also tried a fresh #11 blade - same results. I will admit that I have never tried heating a #11 blade, but done carefully I can see that it would work. The challenge is how to heat the blade consistently. Getting it too hot would cause major problems. I can just see the grab irons melting before my eyes.
Hi Dave,
I've never tried the heated #11 blade either but do remember seeing it suggested in the Proto 2000 assembly instructions.
Question for you, Dave: When you've tried the "fresh" #11 X-acto blade method, are you trying to cut through the sprue by pressing down on it? Or, are you lightly cutting through it in small slices?
I find that the latter method yields very few broken parts; albeit grab irons or long brake line assemblies. You just have to have a very light touch when you do it and let the fresh blade do the cutting. I also find that a sharp X-acto blade gives me a closer and cleaner cut than a sprue cutter - especially when cutting delicate break line assemblies. That said, I do use a cutter occasionally for thicker sprues on delicate parts.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Here is a completed Anderson's Covered Hopper (Sort of) Kit.
The only problem with the instructions is they have you put the ends on the car before you install the brake detail. Well you need the room to glue the air reservoir, abd valve and brake cylinder in place as well as installing all the piping. So I install all of those items first before installing the end on the B end of the car. You also want to drill out all the holes for mounting the grab irons before starting on that operation. These cautions also apply to the USRA and Panel Side Hoppers as they are the same car.
Rick J
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
If you follow the Proto 2000, Branchline, Intermountain and Red Caboose kits on eBay, all the tank car offerings command higher dollars, sometimes as much as $15 plus shipping. Proto 2000 50' box cars can usually be had for $5.00 to $10.00. Branchline seems to be the next "bargain" usually 8 to 10 dollars. Intermountain is normally in the 10 to 12 dollar range. I suppose since Red Caboose kits haven't be produced in quite a few years, they are the most expensive. A good pair of sprue nippers is a must, as well as tweezers, and for me an Optivisor and a good bright light! Getting old is not for the weak! Tichy as well as others make wire grab irons that can replace the delicate one included in the above kits.
trainnut1250These kilts feature separately applied grabs, fine details, accurate dimensions and detailed underbodies
I opened my kilt and didn't find any of those things..........
All of this discussion of building kits prompted me to open up a recently purchased Proto 2000 Mather stock car kit. Amazingly, I decided to read the instructions before beginning assembly. Well, apparently I have been doing everything wrong with regard to removing parts from the sprues. The instructions say "Never use snips, scissors, cutters or nippers to remove a part." They recommend either "a freshly unwrapped (never used) single edge razor blade, or a thin scalpel-type blade, such as a #11 X-acto, that has been heated briefly just before cutting".
Ultimately I decided to try my trusty sprue cutters again and they still worked just fine, thank you very much, despite the dire warnings.
YMMV!
Have a great day everyone!
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Hi Guy:
I'm going to second what Tom said about getting a pair of sprue cutters. I have built Proto 2000, Tichy and Accurail kits, and removing the fine parts like grab irons and brake assemblies from the sprues can be a challenge. A #11 blade will work but there will likely be some breakage. When I switched to using a sprue cutter I didn't break any more parts at all. Here are a couple of examples. I prefer the second style for working with small parts:
http://www.micromark.com/professional-sprue-cutter,9277.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Sprue-Cutter-Fine-for-Plastic-Models-B-B-BB1025-/272049728279?hash=item3f576d6b17:g:UCYAAOSweuxWTK6I
The nice thing about some of the kits like Proto 2000 is that they provide some spare parts like grab irons so you don't need to panic if you break one or two.
As was suggested, magnification is a really good idea.
If you are willing to seek out an older kit, the old Silver Streak line had a large number of wood boxcars. These were actual wood kits, with some white metal cast parts. When they were originally marketed they were sold as easy to assemble, but over time (with no changes to the kits themselves mind you) they became classified as craftsman kits. I would call them on the easier end of craftsman. They are fairly plentiful at swap meets.
Yarmouth Model Works has replacement metal Sill Steps for all the Intermountain, Red Caboose and Proto 2000 Tank cars. I have a number of sets for those tank cars and the Intermountain 1937 AAR Boxcars and various Reefers and they install nicely and are very durable and they are relatively inexpensive a $3.00 set will do a mininum of two cars and sometimes more.
As mentioned, Guy, Proto 2000, Red Caboose, and Intermountain all offer(ed) nicely detailed and challenging tank car kits. None of them currently offer kits (as they have gone the RTR route) but you should still find them plentiful on eBay and at train shows. And, along with the tank cars, the Proto 2000 Mather cars are a nice challenge, as well.
The Proto 2000 parts - particularly the grab irons - are delicate and do require a sharp (fresh) #11 X-acto blade and a steady hand to free them from the sprue without breakage. The first Proto 2000 tank car took me about 8 hrs. to assemble. I eventually got it down to under 4 hrs.
Having said all that, I REALLY like the Accurail 6- & 8-panel wood boxcars. While the underframe details maybe a bit spartan, I think the boxcar portion is quite handsome. And the price is hard to beat.
Many of the plastic kits mentioned are unforgiving because of the delicacy of the fine plastic detail parts. Grab irons, brake rigging, etc. can easily be damaged in the course of removing them from the sprue or handling them. Tichy uses metal wire for many of these things, which makes them less nerve-wracking. Use sprue cutters for removing those delicate plastic details from the sprue, and you would probably be advised to use magnification. Bowser kits are a small step up from Accurail in terms of complexity, but not quite as demanding as Tichy. Now that Westerfield and F&C offer one-piece body castings, you may find them more appealing. They require a fair amount of drilling and tapping, which are not difficult skills to acquire.
Tichy kits are great but they are unpainted and you apply the decals. That is a large leap from Accurail kits.
If you are looking to step up, I would suggest Red caboose, Intermountain or Proto 2000 kits as they have the next level of detail. These kilts feature separately applied grabs, fine details, accurate dimensions and detailed underbodies, but they don’t require painting and decaling – making them a little easier than the likes of Tichy, Rio Grande, Sunshine and Westerfield kits.
For tanks, go with the Proto 2000, either 10k or 8k tanks. These can be fiddly but they are doable and they do build up into very nice models. I’m sure they can be had on EBay – try for less than $10 per car….
A pair of proto 2000 8K tanks
I built the Tichey two pack of elderly wood ore cars some time ago. They went together fine, took paint well, and look decent. I assume the rest of Tichey line is as good. For a real challange in the plastic kit line, try something by Intermountain or Red Caboose. I think they are still in production, although it's hard to tell up here with no local hobby shops.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
My favorite cars are certainly box cars and I recently got an itch for wooden box cars. I "built" some Accurail wooden box cars and I like them but I feel ready for more challenge. I also consider adding a few Tank cars to the roster.
What do you think of Ticky Train Group offerings?