riogrande5761 Which KD's is the original poster using. The old stand-by KD#5's have the closure spring already installed and the bronze centering spring shouldn't be difficult to insert in a draft gear box. The "whisker" type also have the closure spring installed.
Which KD's is the original poster using. The old stand-by KD#5's have the closure spring already installed and the bronze centering spring shouldn't be difficult to insert in a draft gear box. The "whisker" type also have the closure spring installed.
Most of the time the closure spring is installed. I buy the bulk packs of #148 and there will usually be a few in the package that have lost the spring. They include replacement springs so apparently KD realizes that to be the case. It's been quite a while since I bought #5s but it is my memory that they would occasionally need the spring replaced as well. If I were to guess, I'd say about 1 in 20 will have lost their closure spring.
Hi everyone,
One of the most useful tools I have found for working with couplers is a nice pair of fine tweezers. The way I usually do it is to hole the car upside down in one hand and use that same hand so hold the coupler in place, it sometimes take a couple of goes to find a position that holds it all stable. I then use the tweezers to put the lid on the box and place the screw in the hole ready to be tightened.
With regards to the small spring that closes the coupler the easiest way I have found is to slip an exacto blade into the spring to hold it (that may even be the way kadee recommends to do it, I don't have any instructions in front of me). If you are worried about the spring popping off and disappearing do the operation inside a clear plastic bag, that way if the spring does go flying it can't get very far!
Hope this all makes sense.
Dan
rrinker #5's can be quite a pain if not using their own draft gear boxes (which is many times). You have the car to hold, the brass spring to set in place (and not dislodge with the coupler shank as you set that in place - and you have to hold it, because if you let go the coupler will just fall off since the head is heavier than the shank), and then you have to clip the cover on the box. That's somewhere around 3 hands. The whisker couplers are like night and day, even in the exact same piece of rolling stock. --Randy
#5's can be quite a pain if not using their own draft gear boxes (which is many times). You have the car to hold, the brass spring to set in place (and not dislodge with the coupler shank as you set that in place - and you have to hold it, because if you let go the coupler will just fall off since the head is heavier than the shank), and then you have to clip the cover on the box. That's somewhere around 3 hands. The whisker couplers are like night and day, even in the exact same piece of rolling stock.
--Randy
I guess so. I never found that to be vexing - although occasionally a bit of a pain - so I'd have to hold the couple shank down maybe with an exacto while putting the draft gear lid on. So a minor annoyance but true.
The main reason I like the whisker KD's is often after screwing down the lid on the shank, the bronze centering spring would add enough to the draft gear box of some kits (not the KD draft gear however) that the shank would bind a little and not reliably spring back to center - especially on some kits like red box Walthers cars. I added a KD #5 to a Walthers Red Box 53' mill gondola and it didn't center well. Whisker worked better for me.
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This may help. I highly suggest using the #148 coupler much easier to install.
#5
http://kadee.com/htmbord/page5.htm
#148
http://kadee.com/htmbord/page148.htm
Larry
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Holding the car in a vise or a foam cradle makes #5 life a lot easier. Then you can build your stack of pieces upside down, starting with the top of the box, bronze spring, coupler and the bottom of the box.
For really nasty installations, Tacky Glue or Canopy Cement will hold the parts in place and still allow complete disassembly later. Just keep it away from the springs and the pivot post.
The 30-series couplers work well on switchers. You can build these up, clamp them with cross-grip tweezers, a trimmed-back wooden clothes pin, or a small alligator clip, and tack the flat cover plate on with a tiny dot of plastic solvent cement. That way you have an assembly that doesn't have to be built on the car.
N scale modeler here! Just be glad that all you have is a centering spring to contend with. Our couplers come in two peices, and you insert a tiny spring in the middle of the shank with no pins at the end to keep it in place. Just prayer!
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#5's can be quite a pain if not using their own draft gear boxes (which is many times). You have the car to hold, the brass spring to set in place (and not dislodge with the coupler shank as you set that in place - and you have to hold it, because if you let go the coupler will just fall off since the head is heavier than the shank), and then you have to clip the cover on the box. That's somewhere around 3 hands. So unless you're a Motie, this can be troublesome. It's tedious at best, even with many years experience. The whisker couplers are like night and day, even in the exact same piece of rolling stock.
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"Quote RioGrande:
The only KD's which I've found particularly tricky are the #3x series that have the wire centering spring which has to be added when assembling the KD into that draft gear box - yes, those are a real treat - but I've found I don't use those much at all"
It's too bad those are the couplers that come with the PS 2003CF Covered Hoppers, a real pain to re-install what with the cut lever and other detail parts in the way.
Rick
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The only KD's which I've found particularly tricky are the #3x series that have the wire centering spring which has to be added when assembling the KD into that draft gear box - yes, those are a real treat - but I've found I don't use those much at all.
I have been using the Kadee #242 Universal "Black Box" Snap-Together Insulated Gear Box and Lids for most of my coupler installs. The coupler can be assembled first and then be installed on the car. Works great with standard and whisker couplers.
jecorbettMy biggest problem with KDs is when I have to replace the little coil springs. I always figure I'll need 3 of them because 2 are going to end up on the floor. Good luck finding them.
Sounds exceptionaly expert to me
Yup, you've discovered why that all purchases of Kadee couplers I've made since they came out with them have been the 'whisker' type. Trying to get all the peices in place with a classic #5, even worse if fitting them to an existing coupler box like an Athearn snap on kind, can be an exercise in frustration. Even after doing hundreds of them, it still can be tedious.
I haven't tried this, but I suppose one fo thsoe flexible "helping hands" things with the alligator clips could work. Clip the coupler to one of the arms, then hold the car (with the spring set in place) and carefuly position the couple with the other hand by moving the arm. Since it will stay in place, now you justhave to keep holding the car and use the now free hand to pick up the cover and screw.....
Yeah, it's tedious. I still have a bunch of #5s and springs in my stock, but I tend to not use them and just buy another pack of whiskers when my supply runs low. So don;t feel bad about having a bunch of perfectly good #5s unused while you go buy more of the whisker type.
I agree with the suggestion to use the relatively new whisker couplers rather than the old reliable #5s. They do simplify installation. But of course if you have invested in the #5s you certainly don't want to throw them out because once installed they will give you good service. Each manufacturer uses a different coupler box/cover but ironically the only brand I've come across that didn't readily accept a #5 or the whisker equivalent is Kadee freight cars. They come with the smaller sized coupler and apparently they didn't think anyone would want to replace those with the larger couplers. If that was their thinking, they were wrong. I prefer the larger couplers even though I know they are out of scale and I don't like mixing the smaller couplers with the larger ones.
My biggest problem with KDs is when I have to replace the little coil springs. I always figure I'll need 3 of them because 2 are going to end up on the floor. Good luck finding them.
Depending on the model, it can take a few tries to get everything together. I've been installing them for 30 years and it's still that way. I suspect as time goes on, the "whiskers" ones will become the standard and the old bronze spring will be phased out.
You can also buy a foam cradle. Check out the Walthers catalogue / website.
Exactly why I have been using the whisker couplers and the #242 box.
Mike.
My You Tube
Turn the car bottom side up. Place the bronze centering spring in the coupler box. Hold the coupler "gladhand" up. Place coupler in the centering spring and over the post. Insert screw into coupler box lid. Place lid over box, and start screw with right size screwdriver. Do not glue lid to box. Tighten screw until coupler jams, then back off enough that the coupler swings freely from side to side. Lubricate installed coupler with a puff of powdered graphite.
If necessary make a car holding cradle so the car stays upside down hands off.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Having read and reread all the repleys to my first question,I will replace all troublesome coulpers with "real" kadees.
I'm haveing a real time trying to get the coulper to together. I put the spring on the cover,the shank in the spring,and then can't get the box/bottom on. My fingers are too fat, or I,m doing it wrong.
is there a better way? I'm just about ready to toss the whole pakage and buy whiskers