Xterminator,
First, a big .
I, will, (regrettably possibly) counter something posted earlier:
If your current locomotive can be made to operate smoothly, keep it. Many of us started with "cheap" Life-like, Tyco, Bachmann, etc... equipment. If a cleaning and tune-up makes it run smoothly, use it. You will save some money this way. Nothing is wrong with that.
Once you decide to upgrade, you can, but do not feel you must right away if it can perform reliably and smoothly.
Same could be said of the track, clean and polish properly, replace rail joiners as needed, and if it operates smoothly and reliably, there is nothing wrong with saving money that way either.
What I will emphasize however: Smooth and reliable performance. This is not an area you want to compromise on. The "fun" factor goes away very quickly when reliable and smooth operation is missing.
Once you have smooth, reliable equipment, it does not matter if that equipment cost you $5 or $5000. It will bring more enjoyment than a $30000 paperweight.
Ricky W.
HO scale Proto-freelancer.
My Railroad rules:
1: It's my railroad, my rules.
2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.
3: Any objections, consult above rules.
As you can see, lots of opinions on this forum - which means lots of people who want to help. I've gleened much info from here and I've been involved with model railroading for most of my life. My dad (as with many others here) got me started with his Lionel trains, and bought me my first HO train. If you can do this with your dad that would be great. Many of us are old enough to wish we could build our layouts with our dads, but unfortunately cannot.
As far as costs go, you can do much with little - but as many have said, make sure your trackwork is well done. I've put a lot of time into an N-scale layout that has poor trackwork - and that is not fun.
Model railroading is an excellent hobby - no matter what size layout you start with. I encourage you to follow some of the great advice you've received here and keep exploring.
Lots of people get into this hobby and unfortunately, some leave it. So take it slow with the spending.
A 4x8 can be a great space saver if you put it on casters and shove it against the wall. When you want to work on the back side, roll it away. The other half of the room can be used for whatever.
Pick a road name and era and try to stick with it. It helps keep you focused and avoid buyers remorse.
Use ebay to find great deals. Lots of great running and looking equipment can be found. Buy good quality and avoid junk.
Jim
Build a 4x8 and have fun! I got back into the hobby 2 years ago (hadn't done anything with it since my early teens and Tyco train sets) and -- having a little too much space and enough funds to be stupid -- built something beyone my ability. Bad track plan, bad solder joints/connections, bad trackwork, I made a LOT of mistakes. 2 months ago I tore down that entire layout and am now starting over (oddly enough with no regrets -- more on that later).
New layout is not much smaller than the first, but I learned a lot with that first attempt, and there's nothing I could not have learned had I stuck to a 4x8 with that first try, regardless of space or funds. The most surprising thing I found is how relaxing this hobby is. There's no time limit, no real end-game, no finish line unless you impose one. Go down to the train room and mess around for awhile. Did you accomplish something? If so, great! If not, so what, tomorrow is another day. Like I said earlier, no regrets on the mistakes I made first time round, its just part of the fun. I'm sure I will make plenty of mistakes this time around, but hopefully planning and trackwork will be done to a level that they are not key problems.
These forums are a great resource. 95% of the answers you need are already here (hint: instead of using this site's search funtion, use google and search cs.trains + whatever you are looking for).
As far as cost, it is what it is, and it is what you make of it. I'm not much of a poster (this is #2, haha), but I read these forums often. And it seems most of the "too expensive" whiners want to run huge articulated steamers in a basement size layout for less budget than they pay for internet and cable every month. Stick with your current space and budget reality and you will be fine. You can always buid bigger or or move to high-end equipment later. The Broadway Lion (frequent poster her) has done amazing thing on a shoestring budget.
An side, heal fast & well, Brother Lion! I had a hip replacement this summer and feel your pain!
G Paine Xterminator I had been looking into it on Ebay. With Ebay deals, be sure to include the shipping cost in your eveluation; sometimes an item is priced low, but the shipping is high
Xterminator I had been looking into it on Ebay.
With Ebay deals, be sure to include the shipping cost in your eveluation; sometimes an item is priced low, but the shipping is high
Always seems like basic common sense with any purchase made. I always look at the shipping cost as part of the total cost when I decide if something is worth it or not. There have been a few cases where shipping was $10 or a bit more but I still bid because if I could win the item at or near the cost listed, the price was low enough to offset the higher shipping and make the win worth it to me.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
tinplatacisWhen it comes to locomotives, 70's-80's TYCO is no good. Ditto on Life-Like, MDC, and another brand I have had issues with but I cannot remember.
Life-like Proto 2000s are some of the best performers I own (2 SD60s, SD9, BL2, GP9, 3 E7s). They may require tune-up out of the box but on the whole they are well detailed and the above absolutely knock the socks off of anything else I own (for a comparable price.
Back to the OPs topic, getting into the hobby. The most important part in my opinion is determining what is most important to you. Everyone is different. Some are builders (build many layouts/modules in their life time) they enjoy the getting to the final product part. Some are operators, they enjoy running a layout prototypically according to the real railroad rules. Others enjoy watching a train run throught an excellently detailed scene. There are many other types, and you cant really put us all into neatly defined boxes.
The most important part is deciding what you want from the hobby. I personally enjoy running wayfreights or locals. They switch out cars at industries along the railroad line. I built several layouts that had a continous circle before I understood that. My best advice to you is to think outside of the 4x8 box. Look at the track plans on this website and others to get an idea. Do your homework first. Others suggested figuring out what your interests are, what appeals to you. Maybe right now you cant afford to build your dream layout (in time, money or space) but you could build a component section of your dream layout. Leave connections in your track plan for expansion. Make your layout semi portable (you're young like me, dont build a layout you cant take out your front door). In my case my benchwork and legs are recyclable into a new layout incase I have to move. I will definitely have to remove some track to move the layout, but most should be salvageable.
Additionally, my layout is around the walls: my television, book cases, dvd racks, magazine racks and my computer desk are all under my layout. A model train layout makes great use of blank space for storage. I am in the fortunate few who have a significant other who also enjoys the hobby.
A note about that ebay 300pcs of nickel siver track you found. In addition to the shipping cost bit, check to see what is actually included in the track. If it is a bunch of short pieces you might want to identify if the total linear length of track. If you are paying more than $2 a foot you are not getting a deal. (Atlas code 100 flex track runs between $5.50-6.25 for a 3ft piece of track). The majority of my model railroad is flextrack and turnouts, with the occaisional piece of sectional track where I needed absolute rigidity in a very short distance.
BMMECNYC:
I agree that the Life Like P2K locomotives are good runners, but I believe that tinplatacis was referring to the older Life Like toy train set stuff that preceeded the P2Ks.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Dave,
I have little knowlege of those. I stear well clear of anything you find on the shelves of a department store or general toy store, unless I have evidence to prove otherwise that it is a good performing item. I just wanted to make sure the OP wasn't steared away from some of the highest quality trains in the hobby.
Andrew
I was. My first (and only, thanks to its poor performance) Life Like engine was a ATSF F unit from a train set. Most of it outlived the engine.
IMO you can make a convincing layout on a budget. It's going to take time and you won't have all the bells and whistles of, for example, a club layout, but you can still do it. I've been doing it for 15 years.
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
While just about everyone here is saying go for it, the fact you are asking means you really aren't sure. Since you have "fond memories of building models and dioramas," that's what I would do. Build a diorama and see how you like it, and by then you should know if you want to invest more time and money into it.
pirate While just about everyone here is saying go for it, the fact you are asking means you really aren't sure. Since you have "fond memories of building models and dioramas," that's what I would do. Build a diorama and see how you like it, and by then you should know if you want to invest more time and money into it.
A modular layout club may be a good idea here.
Start out with a reliable engine from the start like a Kato, you can usually find a diesel for around $50 on e-bay. For track, Kato's track can't be beat but it is not the most relistic but it is a start and can be found cheap on e-bay also and then sold or used as yard track when you advance in the hobby, though some stay with that track as it is less work. For steam proto 2000 0-6-0 is best, going for around $75 for DCC ready.
Check out the micro-layouts at http://www.carendt.com/
If it hasn't been mentioned before here, you'll likely need some more switches (also called turnouts). Many of us on this forum have gone the expensive route when it comes to turnouts (Peco, Shinoharra, etc.), but you don't need to spend a lot of money on them. I own about 35 Atlas code 100 turnouts, about 1/2 to 2/3 of them I picked up at train shows, some for as little as $2-$3 a piece, in good condition, some never used at all. Also, probably about half or more of my freight car roster was purchased used at train shows and silent auctions at model RR meets. Most of these cars already come with Kaydee (knuckle) couplers on them already. BTW, I own about 300 freight cars; more than enough to use on my U-shaped, around-the-walls switching layout, which is about 20 linear feet.
Take a look at the January Model Railroader. There is a good starter layout in there. The track plan (and many others) are available on this web site.
http://mrr.trains.com/how-to/track-plan-database/2015/11/ho-scale-eagle-mountain-rr
-Don (Random stuff, mostly about trains - what else? http://blerfblog.blogspot.com/)
Have fun with your trains
Hi Xterminator,
I have an article from an old MR which may help you grow a layout ... check your private messages
Also I wrote another article on a british web site http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=10671&forum_id=6&highlight=sunil#p203627 which may be of help... read it in conjuntion with the MR article ... let me know
Regards from Australia
Trevor