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F and C resin McKeen motorcar kit. Feb. 29 update. Finally finished the paint and decals.

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  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, May 2, 2015 8:38 PM

Thanks for the responses and the compliments.

I have been thinking about the 'cow catcher' pilot and I agree that brass is the way to go. I will have to design a jig that will hold all the parts in place while the solder is being applied. I thought about using CA but I think it would be difficult to keep the assembly from sticking itself to the jig.

The kit includes a resin version of the front truck, and suggests that NWSL 42" wheels can be used for a motorized version. Is it feasible to use resin side frames in an operating (non-powered) truck? How long would the axle bearing points last if they are resin or possibly styrene?

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • 111 posts
Posted by cambus267 on Saturday, May 2, 2015 8:54 AM

I agree with "the bear" from having seen your work before it is very good. My only suggestions are 1. Can you "beef up" the side frames and add detail using styrene. 2. As for the cow catcher if it was me (and I'm glad it's not !) I would try to make up a jig and form it out of brass. Anyway best of luck from across the pond. 

  • Member since
    August 2013
  • 3,006 posts
Posted by ACY Tom on Saturday, May 2, 2015 8:48 AM

I have no experience with this patrticular model, but thought I'd mention another option.  The Akron Canton & Youngstown Railroad had one McKeen car in the early 1920's.  They retired it and turned it into an ersatz station in Mogadore, Ohio around the late 1920's.  Then some time in the 1930's it was moved to become a storage shed near the rip track at the road's Brittain Yard in Akron, Ohio until it was finally dismantled in the 1960's.  During that time it suffered all sorts of indignities including amputation of the pointed nose, cutting in of new doors, etc.  By the time it was taken down, it was barely recognizable.

So the car certainly doesn't have to be operable.  It could be repurposed as a building of some sort for your railroad.  Detailing options would be limited only by your imagination.

Tom

  • Member since
    August 2011
  • From: A Comfy Cave, New Zealand
  • 6,238 posts
Posted by "JaBear" on Saturday, May 2, 2015 5:25 AM
The one really good thing about the McKeen motorcar is that there are plenty of photos for reference and information, though in some ways that could be a two edged sword, especially if you posted your progress, because some sharp eyed critic could tell you if you did not get some small detail exactly right!!
As for the cow catcher, whipping one up out of brass would be my solution, especially as I’m volunteering you to actually carry out the task. I’m rather good at delegating.Wink
To get it right isn’t for the faint hearted, but for a chap that has completed a couple of critters, one with DCC and sound, and a darn fine kitbashed boat, it should be regarded as a project to really sink your teeth into.
Have Fun, Cheers, the Bear.Big Smile

"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bradford, Ontario
  • 15,797 posts
F and C resin McKeen motorcar kit. Feb. 29 update. Finally finished the paint and decals.
Posted by hon30critter on Saturday, May 2, 2015 2:08 AM

Hi everyone:

I broke down the other day and decided to bid on one of these and darned if I didn't win it:

Here is a picture of the prototype:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McKeen_Motor_Car_Company#/media/File:Motor_Car_Roslyn.jpg

This thing is totally inappropriate for the era I'm modelling but I'll just have to add it to my excursion fleet.

I've done a few resin kits so I'm not afraid to take it on, but I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions about how to approach this particular model.

I have a couple of Tenshodo spud drives and NWSL Stanton drives so I am planning on using one of them to power the motorcar. The McKeen unit had a somewhat strange wheel arrangement in that the two drive wheels on the front truck were larger than the wheels on the other end of the front truck and the wheels on the non-powered rear truck. The instructions suggest using a powered truck at the rear and using NWSL 42" wheels for the front axle of the front truck.

So, what are your suggestions? Should I work with the apparently very primative supplied frame or build a new one? There don't appear to be any details on the resin frame. What would the underframe have looked like? Also, how do I recreate the very fine details of the pilot 'cow catcher'.

Thanks for your ideas.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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