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How do you activate your TURNOUTS?

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  • Member since
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  • From: SE. WI.
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Posted by mbinsewi on Saturday, February 14, 2015 1:24 PM

All Caboose, hand throws.  I can reach all of my switches.

Mike

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Posted by rrebell on Saturday, February 14, 2015 1:18 PM

All Caboose throws.

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Posted by JDL56 on Saturday, February 14, 2015 12:52 PM

All of my turnouts are manually controlled. I use a combination of Caboose ground throws and homemade spring-activated switches (as seen in the photo above).

I described how I made them on my blog at http://cprailmmsub.blogspot.ca/2009/11/simple-wire-activated-switches.html

John Longhurst, Winnipeg

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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, February 14, 2015 12:46 PM

Sidearm style. I get better distance and control that way. Big Smile

 I use servos, using circuits from Tam Valley. Cheaper than a Tortoise and much smaller. They have multiple options for controlling the servos - on my last layout I used the Singlets, actually getting the 'kit' version in which you have to solder on 2 LEDs and 2 pushbuttons for a $1.50 savings in cost. These provide configurable LED position indicators as well as being DCC decoders. If you don't need DCC operation of the turnouts, the Octopus driver is much less expensive per turnout and allows you to use any sort of switch for input, even plain toggles to you'd have the lever pointing in the direction the train will move.

                 --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by RR_Mel on Saturday, February 14, 2015 11:54 AM

I like Lion’s home brew switch!
I also like Mister Beasley’s latching relay too.  I went that route with my 18 turnouts.  Most of my turnouts are Atlas Custom Line with the Atlas under table switch motors.  I too like the Tortoise switch motors and the way they operate but not their price.  I installed all of my original turnouts in the late 80s and the Atlas switch motors have done very well.  I also wanted indicators for turnout position and went to a low cost latching relay paralleled across the switch motor coils.
 I found a good price (99¢ each) for Aromat DS2E-ML2_DC5V DPDT Latching Relays with a Google Search at Electronic Surplus about 8 years ago.  They are very small, ⅜” W x ¾” L x ⅝” H, I used a dob of Amazing Goop to glue them to the under side of my control panel next to the SPDT switches.
 A similar search on eBay will work good to find a low cost latching relay.  Other coil operating voltages are available on eBay too, 5 to 28 VDC.  Because the operating voltage of the relays I bought is 5 volts DC I use a 180 Ω ½ Watt resistor in series with a 1N4000 diode from my 18 VAC transformer to the common legs of the two coils in the relay.  I use a single 3 mm Bi-Color Red/Green LED in a chrome bezel to indicate the turnout position.
 
Mel  
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Posted by NittanyLion on Saturday, February 14, 2015 11:11 AM

Bullfrogs. Relatively inexpensive, not too hard to put together, and require no wiring.

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Saturday, February 14, 2015 10:46 AM

When I came back to the hobby about 9 years ago, I brought with me a few boxes of trains and track that I'd carted around and stored in basements and attics for 40 years.  Included in that lot were a lot of old Atlas snap switches with twin-coil machines.  I wasn't going to use the old brass track, but I found that the old machines not only still worked, but they would still mount to new nickle-silver code 100 snap switches.  I drove them with an old train transformer and ran wires from a control panel with simple SPDT momentary toggles.  When I needed a couple of curved turnouts, I went with Peco and added a home-made CDU when I found I needed more power.

I can see most of my turnouts just fine, so I don't particularly need indicators on the control panel.  For the others, particularly those in the subways, I added LEDs driven through low-cost latching relays wired in parallel with the turnouts.  I also used a couple of small circuits from Ken Stapleton/Sympatico, which provide a toggle and LED outputs, and mount directly behind the panel to drive twin-coils.

When I built Phase 2, I switched to Code 83 track.  I also used Atlas snap-switches for the less visible trackage where I needed the tight curves.  For the up front turnouts, though, I decided to switch to Walthers-Shinohara driven by Tortoise machines.  Here, I used control-panel toggles for those, too.

I built a Walthers car float and apron, which is designed for a Walthers-Shinohara wye and also has a set of points actually on the apron.  Control panel wiring was going to be awkward for these, so I went with an NCE Switch-it stationary decoder which lets me run these turnouts from anywhere.

For Phase 3, I thought I'd try a Digitrax DS44 quad stationary decoder, as I have 4 turnouts there driven by Tortoises.  This works great, and I wired bi-polar LEDs in series with the Tortoises to give me a display panel.  However, I wish I'd spent the extra 20 bucks for a DS64, because I'd like to also have panel toggles for that section, and the DS44 is DCC control only.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by HO-Velo on Saturday, February 14, 2015 10:33 AM

NP2626
LEDs when they burnt out. 

Throw mine with Tortoises via facia mounted toggles and bi-polar LEDs for indication.  I think LEDs are quite long lived, at least the ones I bought over 20 years ago, they're still working and never had even one burnout.  Oh wait, I did have one burn out, gave it too much juice, mighty stinky smoke.  I have a feeling those LEDs may well be working when my lights go out.

Ah, Lions sure are resourceful.

Regards, Peter

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Posted by mlehman on Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:56 AM

Fortunately, most of the layout was built when finances were a bit more flush. So I do have dozens of Tortoises. They have been worth the expense. It's also the case that solenoid-driven machines tend to be a bit more stressful for turnouts. Since a lot of my track is somewhat more delicate narrowgauge, this was a factor in using them despite the cost. I also like the two sets of contacts on the Tortoise as I always power my frogs, if at all possible.

Most of them are controlled by a DPDT toggle that is (usually) aligned vertically on the fascia. A dayglo yellow dot designates Normal position, with the other being Reverse. This is so they can be seen when it's night on the layout. The position of the toggle shows the position of the points AGAINST the rail. I have a friend whose layout shows the ROUTE or the side the points are AWAY from, which always confuses me a little when operating there. YMMV

In recent times, adding a staging yard and in general to facilitate ops with many of the mainline turnouts, I've started using NCE Switch-its (handles  2 turnouts) and Switch-8s (does 8) to allows remote control via the handheld controllers. The NCE Macro feature works well and is easy to program, so I just assign them the staging yard track number to make it easy to keep track of.

I do have a few Caboose Industries hand throws on the first section of the layout, which was a module I started before buying the house/layout shelterWink. I replaced most on that former module with the manual machines that use a household 3-way switch and receptacle box to make a push-pull type knob. There are three Caboose throws where the position is over some supporting structures, so they will remain manual that way, but are within easy reach.

On the Cascade Branch, I'm on a tighter budget, so will use Tortoises in a few places where they are suited well. The rest are the 3-way switchbox manual controls with the push-pull knobs, which cost under $5 to make, depending on how much you pay for the materials.

In installing the push-pull knobs, I made it a practice of IN being Normal, with OUT being Reverse. I use R/C plane control bellcranks to reverse the knob movement when necessary to match IN/Normal versus OUT.

 

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:28 AM

NP2626
I have started this thread out of simple curiosity for how others arrived at a way to operate their twin coiled switch machines and what they use to indicate routing.  The system I came up with has worked well for me for 27 years, I’m not interested in tearing out a system that has that much longevity and reliability, simply because others feel there are better ways.  If you’re using tortoise slo-mo machines, I’m happy for you and glad that you feel they are the best, maybe your right!  Maybe I’m right for me, in that I felt they were too expensive!  
 

My decission to only use Tortoise machines for the mainline/CTC turnouts and use a manual means for the rest was based on both factors of cost and prototype operation.

Also, I use the cable system accessory made by Circuitron for most crossovers so that only one Tortoise is required for those two turnouts.

My signal system requires additonal contacts and I power all my frogs, so the controls are handled by relays - inexpensive relays.

The complete turnout control system consists of about one relay per turnout, less than two pushbuttons per turnout and less than one Tortoise per turnout with the cable drives on crossovers.

The relays and buttons are about $2 each.

Sheldon

    

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Posted by jecorbett on Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:23 AM

I use mostly Atlas undermount switch machines for mainline and yard turnouts. I use Caboose ground throws for most industrial spurs except for a few hard to reach ones. I have one industrial area where it is too tight to use a ground throw but I was watching a video by Andy Sperandeo and noticed he was just using a finger to allign the turnout points. I tried that and it works fine. I wouldn't recommend it for a mainline turnout, but for a spur, why not.

I have multi-track loop staging yards at either end of by mainline. Trains always go through the loop in a counterclockwise direction so I figured out there was no need for switch machines on the exit side of the yard. The train will allign the points as it exits. It's saved me a bit of maintenance since I only have half as many hidden turnouts to keep in good working order. Once I figured this out, I was like, "DUH". Why didn't I figure that out before.  

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Posted by nycmodel on Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:07 AM

I use Peco turnouts. I simply push the points with my fingers and they snap into place due to the built in spring mechanism. But then my layout is a K.I.S.S. double track shelf design with minimal turnouts (11) all within a foot of the shelf edge.

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Posted by NP2626 on Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:05 AM
I have started this thread out of simple curiosity for how others arrived at a way to operate their twin coiled switch machines and what they use to indicate routing.  The system I came up with has worked well for me for 27 years, I’m not interested in tearing out a system that has that much longevity and reliability, simply because others feel there are better ways.  If you’re using tortoise slo-mo machines, I’m happy for you and glad that you feel they are the best, maybe your right!  Maybe I’m right for me, in that I felt they were too expensive!  

NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"

Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association:  http://www.nprha.org/

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Posted by caldreamer on Saturday, February 14, 2015 8:23 AM

Right now all of my turnouts use Caboose Industries 206S ground throws.  Eventually I will power my mailine crossover swithces and the Sacramento secondary switches with Tortoise machines hooked to the Loconet.  All other switches (To sidings and in the yards) will remain ground throws .  

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Posted by ATLANTIC CENTRAL on Saturday, February 14, 2015 7:20 AM

I use mostly Atlas Custom line turnouts,

Turnout are thrown by one of two methods, depending on location.

Simple rule - all turnouts and trackage are within easy reach of operators.

Mainline and passenger terminal turnouts are controlled by Tortoise switch machines. All of these turnouts can be controlled by the dispatcher or at local tower panels.

The tower panels, and the dispatchers panel have lighted pushbuttons in the track diagram. The pushbuttons light up to show the route selected and in many cases multiple turnouts are aligned with the push of one button.

Changing a route or single turnout on the dispatcher or local panel displays the indicator lights correctly on both panels.

The dispatcher has the ability to lock out local control at the tower panel, but the local panels will still light up to show the selected route.

Yards, industrial areas, industrial sidings, engine terminals all have manual ground throws of my own design. They don't look like real ground throws, but they work well.

They are simply sub minature slide switches mounted next to the throw bar, handle up, sliding back and forth in the direction of the throw bar. a "Z" shaped wire spring connects them to the throw bar and the electrical contacts are used to power ther frogs ad route power.

They are easlily switched with the same small screwdrivers used for manual uncoupling.

So turnouts that would be manual on the prototype are manual on my layout, and turnouts that would have tower/CTC control on the prototype are likewise controlled by towers and the dispatcher.

Sheldon   

    

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Posted by BroadwayLion on Saturday, February 14, 2015 7:12 AM

NP2626
How do you throw your remote turnouts?

LION rips them up and throws them across the room into round basket.

 

OK, you wanted to hear that knot. Very Well, let me read the rest of your question.

Toggle and Button is actualy prototypical for some interlocking machines.

They do make leaf switches (that is what you must goodle or search) that could do what you want, as a matter of fact, I have five or six such things that my father bought back in the 50s. They have solid contacts as well as momentary contacts, and they remain in the position thrown. The downside is that they cost more than Tortoise machines. (look on Digikey or Mouser and search "leaf switches")

BUT LION WILL COME TO YOUR RESCUE:
Here is design for a switch that you can make, as a matter of fact you can make a whole row of them out of a few scraps of metal and wood. The addition of a micro switch to give you extra solid contacts is no big deal. The lever in this case is a wooden ice cream stick the sorth that you can buy at Hobby Lobby.

 

Now that I have told you al of this, it is still far better to bite the bullet and buy the Tortoise machines. It makes wiring and signalling far more simple. They are reliable (some of mine are on their third layout in 30 years--of course LION bought them at the 30year old brice point--but even so, this is one place where him not skimp on the dollars, but would ask the abbot for more money)

You may find more info on the LION'S TORTOISES at web site of LION.

 

ROAR

 

The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.

Here there be cats.                                LIONS with CAMERAS

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Posted by NP2626 on Saturday, February 14, 2015 7:12 AM

I have used a combination of undertable and normal Atlas switch machines and HO Caboose Ind. Ground throws.  MY CD power source will power three easily, maybe even more.  I also have snap relays powering some routes and the frogs on many of my turnouts.

I'm interested in what you have used to actuate your turnouts and what method of indicating route?  On mine, the position of the toggle indicates the route.

NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"

Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association:  http://www.nprha.org/

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Posted by rogerhensley on Saturday, February 14, 2015 7:08 AM

My turnouts? I use Circuitron Tortoise slo-mo switch machines and Caboose Industries 202s hand throws. I use 9 Tortoise machines and all the rest are CI 202s except for one standard mount switch machines (like Atlas only generic).

Roger Hensley
= ECI Railroad - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/eci/eci_new.html =
= Railroads of Madison County - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/

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Posted by zstripe on Saturday, February 14, 2015 6:47 AM

Hello Mark,

Well My system is quite simple....for me anyway! Atlas under table switch machines with Snap relays for signal and control panel lights and powering the frog, 45 of them.....but I got them yrs ago when they were much cheaper price wise than today, got them by the case. I don't use a CDU circuit...A 4amp 18v AC Transformer, with normally open push buttons on the control panel with small AC incandesant Red/Green pilot lights/indicator lights on panel. One side of the snap relay has 12v DC for powering the frogs. This system will throw more than four turnouts at a time if need be, like for crossovers, which I have 8. Most have been up and running since 1983 without any problems and no bulb burn outs.

I throw my manual turnouts with N-scale Caboose Ind. 206s ground throws on my HO scale turnouts.....yeah I know....people will say that won't work, but they forgot to tell my turnouts that. LOL, all 20 of them. Layout is 1/2 ply with 1/2 Homasote on top, makes fastening anything to it a breeze.

Take Care! Big Smile

Frank

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How do you activate your TURNOUTS?
Posted by NP2626 on Saturday, February 14, 2015 6:09 AM
How do you throw your remote turnouts?

I used almost all Atlas Custom line turnout on my layout.  I did not use the Atlas Switch Control box as I wanted something that would visually show the position of the switch points or route the turnout was set to and I didn't feel the Atlas product does this very simply.  Yes, I could have wired in lights to show normal and reverse on my panel; but, then would have been faced with replacing bulbs; or, LEDs when they burnt out.  Instead, I used Single Pole, Double Throw switches to activate my remote turnouts and the toggle is placed so that the action of the throw, indicates the route chosen.  I used the “Snapper” capacitive discharge unit from Circuitron to power my Atlas turnouts (incidentally, this product is very high quality and mine has lasted me for more than twenty years).  With capacitive discharge activation, the power needs to be given to the switch machine only momentarily.  I had thought that there might be a toggle switch that only made momentary contact and then broke open every time it was moved.  I searched for quite some time for this type of a switch and never found one, so the fix was to run the power through the toggle switch and then press a button for a momentary burst of power.  It don’t think it matters if you put button before; or, after the toggle switch, mine are after.  This system has also worked for me for more than 20 years.       

The motor systems such as the Circuitron Tortoise are an excellent method of powering turnouts; but, they are an expense I felt to high.  The system I just described is pretty inexpensive and certainly an option for those of you just starting out.

NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"

Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association:  http://www.nprha.org/

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