I've stuck to sectional track but I'm switching to peco N scale code 55 track, the track(aside from turnouts is flex).
How would one work with flex track? (I'm assuming working with flex in N would be similar to HO scale.)
I have a pair of Xuron rail nippers so I'm prepped there but I'm curious about how you guys cut it, any thoughts are welcome.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
I've used flex track for a long time...in HO mostly but for a period of time when working with N. I've used a Dremel to cut rail in a manner similar to cutting real rail...but with the Dremel on it's lowest speed setting to prevent excessive heat build up and tie melting from cutting. Never used rail nippers.
I would say that using flex...think out what you're doing. Fit it with care and then cut. When flexing into a curve remember your inside rail will always extend over the outside rail and most likely it will be the one to cut.
Take your time...don't rush with flex track. Kinks and bad joints can cause more problems than their worth.
Best wishes and have fun
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
got it, thanks.
So the movable rail is the inside one.
thank you again.
Gidday Gary, HO and also use a Dremel cutoff wheel, I also use needle files to remove any burrs. The Mark One Eyeball with a bit of practice is a handy tool for looking for kinks and other undesirables. I did scratch build a very light weight 89 foot flat car for pushing by hand to test my track work, Not saying that you possess one but you worst tracking passenger car might do the same sort of test.
Good supporting bench work is important ,but excellent track work is, in my opinion , Most Important!!!. Its not that hard , take your time, be fernickity, and Have Fun.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Gary,
A couple more,tip's, try not to have your joints,across from one another,especially in curves. If you have to,cut off at least, one inch,of one rail,so the joints will be staggered, you will never regret it. Also don't have rail joints, over a roadbed joint, or a layout frame work joint, keep that in mind,when you lay your track and again you will never regret it, a good key to bullet proof track. Have Fun!
Cheers,
Frank
I have used rail nippers, dremel cutoff wheel, and razor saw. For me the nippers work the best. The razor saw works but is hardest to use.
Make sure the nippers are at right angles to the rail - both up and down as well as side to side. You will have some clean up on one side of the cut (or you can reverse the nippers and cut the scrap side again for a cleaner cut), other side should be minimal.
Good luck
Paul
I use Xuron rail nippers to cut flex track. I cut from the bottom up on the rails, making sure that the nippers on at a 90 degree angle to the rail.
On curves, I solder the outside of both rails on the connected pieces while they are laying perfectly straight on the work bench. Staggering the rails seems unnecessary, in my experience.
Rich
Alton Junction
I flattened the back side of a pair of $2.00 diagonal cutters using a bench grinder. They work as well if not better that the xuron cutters on code 100 rail. I had rail nippers, just wanted to see if I could do it.
charlie (cheap like the Lion)
I have used both the Dremel, and the Xuron cutters. Whichever I use, I use this tool from Micro Mark to keep the rail from rolling over or breaking loose from the ties when I cut.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
If you cut track with a razor saw, then a tool the one shown above would be a really good idea. But the last time I used a razor saw was when I was a teenager in the stone ages of my model railroading life.
In my twenties I "leveled up" to using a Demel with a cutoff disk. I have never rolled a rail over in the ties with a dremel; all you have to do is be careful to wear eye protection. Dremel became my favorite.
Later on I picked up a Xuron and found those work well, but you do need to "dress" the end of the rail as it doesn't cut it perfectly flat and straight. I never had problems with rail rolling over with the Xuron either.
If cost is a consideration, then Xuron is probably the best compromise. I picked up a brand new older model Dremel for $35 which I'll use, plus I still have a Dremel I bought in the early 80's that still works.
I believe the above commentary would apply for both N and HO flex. I've used both but only HO for the past 25 years.
Cheers.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
(I use a Dremel cutting wheel on HO Code 70 rail). But a tip not previously mentioned applies to both sectional and flex track - but even more to flex track when one has cut the rail: Use a small file to lightly "dress" the rail head at the cut. Insure that there are no burrs on the bottom or edges of the rail - this allows the rail joiners to slide on easily. The light rounding of the edges of the cut end of the rail reduces the chance of a flange catching on the joint and helps keep things smooth and quiet.
Bill
I mentioned dressing the end of the rail in my post above. Just bolded it in case it gets missed.
I have never used the saw, but I have had a rail come loose when being cut.
My favorite tool for cutting rail is a pair of "aircraft shears" available at most hardware stores. They make nice, clean cuts in rail.
Rob Spangler
All of the replies have excellent suggestions.
While laying flex track on curves, be careful not to leave kinks at the rail joints. To me the best solution is to hold the ends of two pieces a track together with joiners installed. Hold at least six inches of each of the two pieces of track with the rails straight. While doing this the joints, of course, will be straight. Next, solder the joints in place. Then bend to track into the desired curvature. The soldered joints will not kink.
It is also helpful to use push pins to hold track in place temporarily before installing the track nails. The push pins allow for adjustments before installing the track nails.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Ah, thank you for the responses thus far guys. I'm curious about how you guys get your curves nice and smooth. I have a curve that I plan on splicing a Curved turnout into and was curious about how you guys made your curves.
Thank you again guys.
#24,
I model HO scale but I'm sure the track laying tricks are the same in N scale. As noted before, I always solder rail joints at the workbench before curving the track. Same would be true of a curved turnout that will become part of a curve. Solder flex track sticks to both ends of the turnout (outside route at the diverging end) then lay it all on the center lines that you previously drew to get the correct radii, easements, etc. Once that is nailed/glued down, attach flex track to the inner diverging rail of the turnout, solder that joint, then lay that flex track on the center lines. If it will have rail joints in its curve, solder while straight at the bench.
Incidentally, although I have occasionally cut rail with a motor tool cut off disk, more than 90% of the time I have used Xuron rail nippers. No problems and usually a very clean cut requiring very little "dressing up." The Xuron instruction for HO rail it to place the cutting jaws on the top and bottom of the rail. If I recall correctly, for N scale the instruction is to cut from the sides of the rail. I've never tried side to side so I can't say how that works. You can run your own test on a scrap of track.
Good luck!
Burlington Northern #24 Ah, thank you for the responses thus far guys. I'm curious about how you guys get your curves nice and smooth. I have a curve that I plan on splicing a Curved turnout into and was curious about how you guys made your curves. Thank you again guys.
I think everyone is glad to make suggestions.
Here is one more (might have been mentioned already)..... Remove any ties that will be under the rail joiners because the bottom of the rail joiners, of course, is lower than the rail bottoms. The ties will push the rail joiners upward. You may later replace the ties if you sanded down the thickness of the ties. .
Skagit I have some spare atlas code 80 which is similar to Peco's code 55 I'll test the theory in a bit.
Heartland, how many tie's would you suggest removing for a rail joiner?
I'm curious about how you guys get your curves nice and smooth. I have a curve that I plan on splicing a Curved turnout into and was curious about how you guys made your curves. Thank you again guys.
I basically followed Atlas's old N scale guide for laying my HO flex track - same just bigger track.
I do the curves by just laying most of the curve on the centerline I drew with a trammel (like a giant compass) and leave the last 6-8 inches floating free. Then I curve it around and mark the inner rail with a scratch where it is parallel to the outer rail. Then hold it in in place and cut it with a Dremel or Xuron. I usually take off the last tie so the rail joiners will fit on the end, and then solder the next section using heat sings and flux to make it easier and avoid melting ties. When soldered straight, the rail will not kink and will curve like one long piece of rail, smoothly.
Heartland Division CB&Q All of the replies have excellent suggestions. While laying flex track on curves, be careful not to leave kinks at the rail joints. To me the best solution is to hold the ends of two pieces a track together with joiners installed. Hold at least six inches of each of the two pieces of track with the rails straight. While doing this the joints, of course, will be straight. Next, solder the joints in place. Then bend to track into the desired curvature. The soldered joints will not kink. It is also helpful to use push pins to hold track in place temporarily before installing the track nails. The push pins allow for adjustments before installing the track nails.
Excellent advise. I will add on that if you do lay track where there is expected to be swings in humidity and temperature, leave many of the straight joints unsoldered so the track can "breath". I found out the hard way when I soldered ALL of my joints in a garage layout that the track would kink or pull apart when the rail expanded and contracted.
Ok, I may have to skip the soldering part as I don't have an Iron or the knowledge of how to use one. but the rest I'm sure I'm capable of doing, it's just a matter of finding something to secure the center or end of the track I'm flexing.
I cut a template out of scrap luan the width of the roadbed 24" radius and drew out my curves with Sharpie before laying the roadbed. All I had to do with the Flex-Track was center it on the roadbed. I actually glued down a lot of various straight section tracks (if there wasn't already a glued down turnout) and let them dry before laying the flex, that made it easier to put the 3' section in at one end and mark both rails at the other end before cutting.
Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!
Burlington Northern #24Ok, I may have to skip the soldering part as I don't have an Iron or the knowledge of how to use one.
Based on my experience, I do not think it will be possible to lay reliable flex track without soldering. But maybe some one has.
Soldering is not that hard, but be prepared to practice. It is a good lifetime skill.
I urge you to learn to solder. I believe it is a vital skill of a model railroader. And it is not hard to do. It just takes a little practice. (Those scraps of track, again.)
Inexpensive pencil type soldering irons are available for under $10. Better yet, take a look at the variable soldering station from MicroMark, on sale for $20 thru Tuesday if you order via the web site linked below:
http://link.micromark.com/YesConnect/HtmlMessagePreview?a=2Cxc0-sCZV0rVYGjaLB7Ts
You might also want to pick up a small pointy tip since N scale track is pretty small. You will also need some flux and solder.
BTW, I have no connection with MidroMark. All of these or similar items are available from many electronics outlets.
Here's to happy soldering!
I don't solder, any of my flex track,on curves and also use insulated joiners, on both rails,on some curves,never experienced any problem's going on 25 years of existing layout, don't even need it for power flow either, every piece of flex track,has a feeder. I also run straight DC,some Engines with sound, but I spike my track to Homosote and the ballast glue,will keep it from going anywhere. But I also have been laying Model track since, 1951.
BN,
I agree with the others. Learn to solder. It ain't rocket science, and it is a lifetime skill.
Once you try it a couple of times, you will laugh at yourself for waiting so long to learn how to solder.
Trust me, it is no big deal.
zstripe I don't solder, any of my flex track,on curves
I don't solder, any of my flex track,on curves
Unsoldered flex track results in kinks on curves. There is no avoiding it.
Gidday Gary, I see the answers have been flowing in since I started composing this answer. I find it interesting that while the approaches may be different, and some which I wouldn't do, you actually haven't received one bit of wrong advise.
Tangents. During the years I spent as an armchair modeler I had read about tangents and the use thereof, but as I hated mathematics as a schoolboy, and as track laying was some where in the distant future, that was about it, and when I joined the local club and started to learn track laying, it was a case of tangents ?, just lay the track to the set radius. Now at the club when laying track I use my abbreviated form of tangents when setting out curves.
You have previously mentioned using a 4' x 2' baseboard which, assuming that your track centre was to be 2" from the edge, would give you a 10" radius curve. Warning!! Now the following has to be prefaced with the fact that when it comes to N Gauge I am talking through an even larger hole in my head than when talking about HO. What I would suggest is that you set your radius at 9 3/4 " which at the point the curve is closest to edge, gives you an edge distance of 2 1/4 ". Measure back from that point of the curve 6" (approximately 80 N Scale feet) then draw a curve to join both points. This is the tangent, unscientific, yes: minimalist, definitely, but it will help that flow in effect.
Soldering. No I don't generally solder rail joiners unless I'm rectifying a mistake. However I would consider it an essential for attaching your track feeds. Just remember on what surface you are laying your hot soldering iron on.
I used to delicately carve out the molded on track spikes and portion of the tie where the joiner was to go, but talk about slow , I now just remove two ties either side the join and after trimming them down, slide them in afterwards, the ballast holds them in place.
Have Fun.
richhotrain zstripe I don't solder, any of my flex track,on curves Unsoldered flex track results in kinks on curves. There is no avoiding it. Rich
You better,tell that to the curves then. How could they kink,when they are spiked?
It's on Homosote, not foam, once they are spiked,they do not move, maybe on your layout they do, but not on mine. You might want to try some better rail joiners then.