lone geep Lehigh Valley 2089 lone geep Recently on my railroad, I've realigned part of my high line to give it a less steep grade up to it. what I've also done is build a balsa wood retaining wall that I want to paint gray to look like concrete. Then I added a cap along the top. The tracks below are my yard and the tracks behind the wall is my staging yard. Sorry for the mess. It's looking pretty good. Are your cars free-rolling or are you using cut coupler springs to add some resistance to the wheels? Got thinking about it because the Canada hopper seems to be sitting on a grade. As far as it being a mess, you should see my layout right now. I can operate trains on it, but I still need to do some wiring work in order to get them running on all the little nooks of the layout. Specifically the turntable tracks. Also need to do some heavy duty track cleaning, and I think I need a power washer at this point. That hopper came from a Bachmann train set so it isn't free rolling and it isn't on a track either, only on the cork, though it is on a slight grade. How did you weather your mini trainmaster?
Lehigh Valley 2089 lone geep Recently on my railroad, I've realigned part of my high line to give it a less steep grade up to it. what I've also done is build a balsa wood retaining wall that I want to paint gray to look like concrete. Then I added a cap along the top. The tracks below are my yard and the tracks behind the wall is my staging yard. Sorry for the mess. It's looking pretty good. Are your cars free-rolling or are you using cut coupler springs to add some resistance to the wheels? Got thinking about it because the Canada hopper seems to be sitting on a grade. As far as it being a mess, you should see my layout right now. I can operate trains on it, but I still need to do some wiring work in order to get them running on all the little nooks of the layout. Specifically the turntable tracks. Also need to do some heavy duty track cleaning, and I think I need a power washer at this point.
lone geep Recently on my railroad, I've realigned part of my high line to give it a less steep grade up to it. what I've also done is build a balsa wood retaining wall that I want to paint gray to look like concrete. Then I added a cap along the top. The tracks below are my yard and the tracks behind the wall is my staging yard. Sorry for the mess.
Recently on my railroad, I've realigned part of my high line to give it a less steep grade up to it. what I've also done is build a balsa wood retaining wall that I want to paint gray to look like concrete.
Then I added a cap along the top.
The tracks below are my yard and the tracks behind the wall is my staging yard. Sorry for the mess.
It's looking pretty good. Are your cars free-rolling or are you using cut coupler springs to add some resistance to the wheels? Got thinking about it because the Canada hopper seems to be sitting on a grade.
As far as it being a mess, you should see my layout right now. I can operate trains on it, but I still need to do some wiring work in order to get them running on all the little nooks of the layout. Specifically the turntable tracks. Also need to do some heavy duty track cleaning, and I think I need a power washer at this point.
That hopper came from a Bachmann train set so it isn't free rolling and it isn't on a track either, only on the cork, though it is on a slight grade. How did you weather your mini trainmaster?
Do you remember reading an article about Cody using eye shadow sponges to add rust and grime effects to a former BN SW? That's what I did, only I used an artist sponge to add the effects. I also used a small amount of graphite to add the soot and grime effects using a hog bristle brush. It sure looks sharp.
The Lehigh Valley Railroad, the Route of the Black Diamond Express, John Wilkes and Maple Leaf.
-Jake, modeling the Barclay, Towanda & Susquehanna.
Lone Geep
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Lehigh Valley 2089 Burlington Northern #24 cowman Gary, I'm far from being a teen, but I have a suggestion for your "non-buying" period. What I have done is set aside a given amount a week, which I call my cigarette money, since I don't smoke. Ask the controller of the finances if it would be alright if you set aside a given amount weekly for your wishlist. It could cover more than model rr if necessary. If you have an allowance or have a job a small amount each week does not up set the current budget and can add up quite rapidly if carefully monitored. As long as you don't overspend what you have saved, hopefully you will be showing her finincial responsibility. I did this with the first engine I bought decades ago, the current fund started long after that purchase. Gives me a source of funds that my controller of finances (wife) doesn't object to. Just a thought. Good luck, Richard thanks yeah, been buying one train a check/ 2-3 weeks maybe a month. yeah april is the start of my 2nd year as a model railroader. Me? When the pay is good I set aside most of it and use only about a quarter of it for Lionel or N scale items. When it isn't, I often don't touch it. I usually wait for a better check to come before buying an item.
Burlington Northern #24 cowman Gary, I'm far from being a teen, but I have a suggestion for your "non-buying" period. What I have done is set aside a given amount a week, which I call my cigarette money, since I don't smoke. Ask the controller of the finances if it would be alright if you set aside a given amount weekly for your wishlist. It could cover more than model rr if necessary. If you have an allowance or have a job a small amount each week does not up set the current budget and can add up quite rapidly if carefully monitored. As long as you don't overspend what you have saved, hopefully you will be showing her finincial responsibility. I did this with the first engine I bought decades ago, the current fund started long after that purchase. Gives me a source of funds that my controller of finances (wife) doesn't object to. Just a thought. Good luck, Richard thanks yeah, been buying one train a check/ 2-3 weeks maybe a month. yeah april is the start of my 2nd year as a model railroader.
cowman Gary, I'm far from being a teen, but I have a suggestion for your "non-buying" period. What I have done is set aside a given amount a week, which I call my cigarette money, since I don't smoke. Ask the controller of the finances if it would be alright if you set aside a given amount weekly for your wishlist. It could cover more than model rr if necessary. If you have an allowance or have a job a small amount each week does not up set the current budget and can add up quite rapidly if carefully monitored. As long as you don't overspend what you have saved, hopefully you will be showing her finincial responsibility. I did this with the first engine I bought decades ago, the current fund started long after that purchase. Gives me a source of funds that my controller of finances (wife) doesn't object to. Just a thought. Good luck, Richard
Gary,
I'm far from being a teen, but I have a suggestion for your "non-buying" period.
What I have done is set aside a given amount a week, which I call my cigarette money, since I don't smoke. Ask the controller of the finances if it would be alright if you set aside a given amount weekly for your wishlist. It could cover more than model rr if necessary. If you have an allowance or have a job a small amount each week does not up set the current budget and can add up quite rapidly if carefully monitored. As long as you don't overspend what you have saved, hopefully you will be showing her finincial responsibility. I did this with the first engine I bought decades ago, the current fund started long after that purchase. Gives me a source of funds that my controller of finances (wife) doesn't object to.
Just a thought.
Good luck,
Richard
Me? When the pay is good I set aside most of it and use only about a quarter of it for Lionel or N scale items. When it isn't, I often don't touch it. I usually wait for a better check to come before buying an item.
SP&S modeler, 1960's give or take a decade or two for some equipment.
http://www.youtube.com/user/SGTDUPREY?feature=guide
Gary DuPrey
N scale model railroader
looks good both the trainmaster and your concrete wall.
Here's BT&S #790 after decaling and weathering.
Lehigh Valley 2089 Burlington Northern #24 that looks great, I just got CB&Q's Silver streak zephyr. I just don't want to pick it up because it's so shiny. Thank you, took only about two hours. Just got the time to post a photo of it.,
Burlington Northern #24 that looks great, I just got CB&Q's Silver streak zephyr. I just don't want to pick it up because it's so shiny.
that looks great, I just got CB&Q's Silver streak zephyr. I just don't want to pick it up because it's so shiny.
Thank you, took only about two hours. Just got the time to post a photo of it.,
Here's the passenger car with supports. Looks pretty good there.
Currently adding wood supports to a passenger car that just kept giving me trouble. It is to become a part of my logging camp.
just moved the layout back to my room, decided to finish putting down the ground cover, I may or may not yank some track and replace it to fix derailment problems. I need to draw up a 4x8 plan so I can build one eventually, it'll be my show/ personal layout so I can run my BN passenger and executive trains. mom said I can't buy anymore trains for a while I was gonna buy a vomit bonnet, oh well I guess I could super detail my locos and cars and switch them to MTL's.
but for the mean time just running on the fly ops. I need to buy a new two stall engine house.
SP&S #50 sits out in the rain on the shop track.
Problem.............
The E-unit in my 2020 is still not clicking every time. Still think it is just dirt keeping it from clicking, but I am unsure at this point.
Me no have photobucket, can't readily post photos. Everything I posted can be viewed by visiting my photos page. Please check it out!
Just got it working again. Here are the rest.
I worked on the yard/paper mill lead and took some pics with my RS10 and my dad's Arthearn BB wooden caboose.
Grrr, my photobucket just started acting up. I'll post the rest later.
Lehigh Valley 2089 Burlington Northern #24 if it means getting a GS4 back up and running that five bucks will pay itself off. thank you. Actually, hold off on that. I just looked at it again and it said "for models produced before 2002". If your GS -4 is from before that, okay. But if not, well, I don't know what to do. There was a forum of someone trying to install a decoder in such an engine, so you may want to take a look at that. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?96619-KATO-GS-4-Tsunami-install-Step-by-step!
Burlington Northern #24 if it means getting a GS4 back up and running that five bucks will pay itself off. thank you.
if it means getting a GS4 back up and running that five bucks will pay itself off. thank you.
Actually, hold off on that. I just looked at it again and it said "for models produced before 2002". If your GS -4 is from before that, okay. But if not, well, I don't know what to do. There was a forum of someone trying to install a decoder in such an engine, so you may want to take a look at that.
http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?96619-KATO-GS-4-Tsunami-install-Step-by-step!
I did see that kato has a parts catalog avalible for $5, which includes parts diagrams. If you are willing to spend an extra $5, you can very well have that GS-4 back together.
http://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=s-1078&keywords=diagram&maxhits=25&go=Search&bool=AND
Lehigh Valley 2089 Burlington Northern #24 Lehigh Valley 2089 Performed some servicing on my E-unit (yes, I did all of a sudden get the guts to rip it apart) and now it works properly. YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I just need a 6020W or 2020W tender. I'm not sure I may be able to disassemble another one of my locos, my first GS4 is sitting in shambles so I guess it's spare parts for my second one. Key to success for Lionel was simplicity. The E-unit may sound like a complex item, but it's nothing more than a drum, metal fingers, a plunger, and an electromagnet. If you could mention who produced the GS4, I maybe able to find the parts diagram for it, making reassembly easier (I'm assuming Kato made this item).
Burlington Northern #24 Lehigh Valley 2089 Performed some servicing on my E-unit (yes, I did all of a sudden get the guts to rip it apart) and now it works properly. YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I just need a 6020W or 2020W tender. I'm not sure I may be able to disassemble another one of my locos, my first GS4 is sitting in shambles so I guess it's spare parts for my second one.
Lehigh Valley 2089 Performed some servicing on my E-unit (yes, I did all of a sudden get the guts to rip it apart) and now it works properly. YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I just need a 6020W or 2020W tender.
Performed some servicing on my E-unit (yes, I did all of a sudden get the guts to rip it apart) and now it works properly. YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I just need a 6020W or 2020W tender.
Key to success for Lionel was simplicity. The E-unit may sound like a complex item, but it's nothing more than a drum, metal fingers, a plunger, and an electromagnet.
If you could mention who produced the GS4, I maybe able to find the parts diagram for it, making reassembly easier (I'm assuming Kato made this item).
Just had to replace a wire in my 2020. It's all original wiring, so I'm not surprised that it needed some new wiring.