OK I'll bite. Being that this is a hobby for me I don't have a big budget of time or money for my layout, I'm using both NS and brass. It's what I had availible. I've not noticed any difference in maintainence between the 2, nor have I noticed a difference in power transfer or traction. I have an adequate number of feeders and my trains aren't long enough to test the threshold of traction. The only significant difference I've noticed is that the brass has a color closer to that of rusty rails meaning less time spent weathering/detailing the track. So since I have an abundance of brass, most of my future trackwork will be done witht he brass. When the brass is gone, I won't necessarily go looking for more but I will have to color the NS. Based on that, one needs to consider if the differences actually mean anything to their layout, basically if you're building a large layout with really long trains brass may be the better choice for pulling power, power delivery, and quicker construction due to less time spent weathering. For a small layout with short trains it probably doesn't matter at all. And has anyone considered that brass may have the reputation for getting dirtier because plastic wheels were the norm when it was popular? NS may stay cleaner but is it because of the rails or the trend towards metal wheels?
Modeling the Cleveland and Pittsburgh during the PennCentral era starting on the Cleveland lakefront and ending in Mingo junction
ruder
ruderunnerAnd has anyone considered that brass may have the reputation for getting dirtier because plastic wheels were the norm when it was popular? NS may stay cleaner but is it because of the rails or the trend towards metal wheels?
Ya know I was agreeing with ya 100% until that last line. Based on several posts here and more so my own experience, I think the plastic wheels theory goes into the same myth category as the brass rail theory. Besides, you probably don't need to be a metallurgist to tell the difference between oxidation and a coat of plastic film.
Look, I don't care what people use as long as it works for them AND they are happy with it. Based on this thread alone, we've even seen enough votes in each camp to call it a wash. What does bother me (a little) are certain pundits poo-poo-ing something based on either limited experience or the theory that newer (read more expensive) is better. Might even be worse when people convince themselves of that seems to happen a lot and not only here.
Archer
I have no experience with brass, and don't intend to own any...at the moment. It stands to reason that most metals, and many compounds, will oxidize. The question, for me, would be, "What effect does it have on my operations the way I operate in the frequency that I operate?" NS rails do get dirty...proven it once or a dozen times myself, and had to deal with it. Brass rails, in the right circumstances, say time with some humidity and little over-the-rails activity, will very likely have some non-transmitting crud on the tops where it counts. If my NS rails are clean, but unused for extended periods, I will be able to run trains when I return. Is this the case with brass? I'm actually asking because I have no idea. My experience in life and formal learning suggests that it might not go well until the rails are scrubbed or polished, but I could be wrong. A user's orientation to that makes it a problem or just a routine form of maintenance.
I would guess, secondly, that reasonably frequent use of any metal rails over which metal wheels are pulled or driven would have a salutary effect on transmission of power because the rail tops would tend to be cleaner and burnished. This would include brass.
In my mind's eye, I can imagine that brass rail webs look pretty good with a little patina on them.
-Crandell
Crandell:
I can only speak from my own experience. When I started building my first garage empire (not the current one), all I could find was NS rail in my hobby shop--brass rail had been superceded. I'd been using brass rail on several experimental layouts and frankly, I found that there was little difference in either maintainance or conductivity. However, the brass rail wasn't salvagable, so I went with the NS instead and have been happy with it ever since.
My only concern would be--and this is a personal one, mind you--that in my case (uninsulated garage layout subject to temperature and humidity changes), the brass rail because of Non-Conductive oxidation, might possibly end up being more labor intensive than NS as far as keeping the track clean. But since brass rail wasn't available once I started building the layout, it's kind of a moot point, I suppose.
But I really didn't notice much difference, if any at all, when my brass rail test layouts were inside the house.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Amazing... To me, all modelers should at least desire the most accurate and best running models, IMHO. There are many reasons why that is unattainable, not the least of which is money, time, effort, materials, etc. To not want N/S rail is just so weird to me. Wouldn't it be great if we could buy pre-weathered, pre-wired & pre-cleaned N/S rail that flexed like Atlas and was available in shades of light and dark brown...and all at a cost comparable to Atlas? Who wouldn't want that?
TomDiehl,Yes, real rail is only shiny at the top. Unless you buy weathered rail (as from Micro Engineering), you will have to paint your rail in order to faithfully recreate real rail color no matter if it's made of: brass, N/S or steel. If the rail gets used often, the sides are more of a light brown color. If the rail isn't used often, it turns into a much darker brown. However, most rail in service is shiny on the top. And when you can see that shine, it's not gold colored. If you can't tell the difference between brass color and rust color...man, I don't know what to say. We are supposed to be replicating the prototype, right? Isn't getting the rail the right color to some degree worth it?
Barry,Seriously, you need to be less sensitive to this subject matter. Brass colored rail heads do not look close to realistic in any way, shape or form. That's a fact. If you have a problem with people pointing out this obvious fact, then you need to grow a thicker skin because otherwise you will be offended everytime someone points out wide-body Athearn GP's, X2F couplers, and pizza cutter flanges.
Brakie,You really know how to hurt a guy, don't you? I always wondered how you got these thousands of posts on here and elsewhere. Now I know it's because you don't actually read the entire thread you post on, you just comment on it. Okaaay. From now on, I'll assume you don't read any thread you post to so I won't be all sarcastic when previous posts are ignored by you. Thanks for that info...provided you actually read this.
(WARNING: The above paragraph was an attempt at humor. Do not try at home. Professional Drivers On A Closed Course. Objects In Mirror Are Closer Than They Appear. One Size Fits All.)
ruderunner,Brass track is only "close" (and I use that term loosely) to real rail color on the sides. When you look down the line and see glowing strips of butter glinting from the rail heads...doesn't that sort of ruin the effect of the model scene?
Archer1,Read this and tell me you still think plastic wheels are not a problem with dirty track:http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/cmx_chemist_review.htm
And I have news for you: in general, newer is better. There are exceptions, but they remain that...exceptions. More expensive, in general, is better. There are also exceptions for that, too. But again, they remain exceptions.
selector,In my experience, brass does alright most of the time, but it really falls down on things like point contact. I have some handlaid brass rail switches that were built in the 1950's that I use on my layout. I also have some that were built from N/S rail in the late 1970's. All of these siwtches rely on point contact to power the frog. Around 4 times a year, I have to clean the points of my brass switches for good conductivity. In the past 5 years, I think I've cleaned the points of my N/S switches once.
Paul A. Cutler III*******************Weather Or No Go New Haven*******************
Same questions are asked about using code 100. My Santa Fe was built in the 1980's and most of the track is NS but code 100. There is some code 70 on spurs. The railroad is three decks and a lot of track, and at my age, I am not about to rip up the code 100 and replace it with 83. Others might be willing, I am not. At my senior age, there are other places for my funds than replacing one size track with another just to be "politically correct".
Bob
My brass track is outside, in the rain, the sun and ice. Leaves fall on it, the dog pees on it and birds poop on it. With all that, I find the need to only clean once a year in the spring. I would think that in the shelter of a house that cleaning cycles would be far less frequent. In the 8 years it's been exposed to nature, the track has turned a very realistic shade of black (top and sides). I find no perceptable voltage drop or decrease in train performace in between cleanings.
Newer isn't always better. This is true with model trains as it is with shaving razors and furniture. Sure, newer models are more realistic and have finer detail, but many models way back when were just as good (and made in USA putting Americans to work). There is a large portion of this hobby that really doesn't care about the latest doo-dads and gizmos that come with 800 numbers to help centers in India when the technology doesn't work. Many of us are happy cave-men with our open frame motors and DC cab control. And some of us enjoy building our own models.... huh, imagine that.
Anyway, Allegheny 2-6-6-6, you did ask why anybody would want to use brass, those of us who use it have said why, I hope you have the answer you were looking for. It is clear that those that poo-poo brass are those that never used it in the first place and are intent on convincing us that do that it is a bad thing instead of listening and learning from another thought process, another view point, in the world of model railroading. Not everybody fits into the same box.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
Paul3Amazing... To me, all modelers should at least desire the most accurate and best running models, IMHO. There are many reasons why that is unattainable, not the least of which is money, time, effort, materials, etc. To not want N/S rail is just so weird to me. Wouldn't it be great if we could buy pre-weathered, pre-wired & pre-cleaned N/S rail that flexed like Atlas and was available in shades of light and dark brown...and all at a cost comparable to Atlas? Who wouldn't want that?
mmmm--What I find amazing is that some people find that that desire is not essentially for the same thing as someone else. Really. Why should I desire for exactly the same level of accuracy as someone else in the first place? This is getting like unto accuracy fundamentalism To not want N/S rail is not weird to me because I do not think differences are an issue---you might, but how the beep do I know--- BTW---even if the dang N/S was precleaned--in my house a certain amount of 'Spring' cleaning be a good idea anyhooo--
Paul3Seriously, you need to be less sensitive to this subject matter
Meh---I get accused of all manner of things anyhooo----just recently a debate about High Speed Rail at a local coffee shop up here had me laughing when I was accused of being a neanderthal because I'm not a BIG supporter of it. Then the same person said that it wasn't PC to not like HSR----so
Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry
I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...
http://modeltrainswithmusic.blogspot.ca/
Why use brass? Because it is there...
So, where's 'there?'
As for the suggestion that all brass rail should be scrapped posthaste; why would I want to lose perfectly good scenery material, only to replace it with newer stuff at a higher price?
Once again, this is not a, "One size fits all," situation.
Chuck (aka Scrooge McDuck, Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Paul -
Not really sure why this matters to you so much, but try reading modelmaker51'a post here on plastic wheels:
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/163159.aspx?PageIndex=1
Oddly enough, my N scale layout is very similar to the one in the article you linked, just has about twice the trackage (about 100'). It's been up and running for about 1.5 years, and I've yet to clean the track - it just doesn't need it. Most of the wheels are Atlas plastic MT replacement axles. I don't even try fixing metal axles any more, it's just easier to replace them with plastic. They are ALWAYS to NMRA spec and pretty fool proof (nothing to adjust), not to mention quieter.
If you believe newer is better, that's great, I'm sure your LHS loves you. For a lot of us, this is a hobby, something we LIKE doing. That may or may not include having the latest and greatest or breaking the bank on it. If that's what it means to you or someone else, that's great too. When I "upgrade" something, there has to be a quantifiable return on from the upgrade. In the case of plastic wheels, they work better in my environment. All the chemists in the world can say whatever they like, but if it doesn't pan out for me - it's pretty meaningless. Ditto for the brass rail.
Here's an analogy that might drive it home (or not): Clearly a 10 ton block of concrete has twice the mass as a 5 ton block. I doubt you'll care or even know which one hit you on the head after a ten story fall.
How about this - Rather than telling people what's "better" or what (you think) they should do or want, how about trying to help them with specific issues they are having? I'm willing to bet that any issues they have won't be due to brass rail or plastic wheels. Really, you might be taking this a little too seriously.
Anywho - I've been around the Internet long enough to know when someone is "protesting too much". I joined this forum to learn and hopefully exchange ideas, not argue about stuff that really doesn't matter (to me).
Since we're sharing opinions here - some on the end of lit dynamite
Here's mine
NS looks better.
I can understand using brass to save money and based on my first 2 layouts using the stuff, it's certainly workable - my first flex track was brass rail on fiber ties with staples in every other tie holding the tie strip to the rail, plus I hand laid some brass rail on wooden ties. The price difference was steep enough then, that I couldn't afford NS. But for me brass just never looked right.
When I had a loop of brass G track set up in my basement, the trains ran just fine with no track cleaning but the bigger rail size really emphasized the fact that it didn't look right.
I don't care how you dress it up, you just can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Or as my wife says "Brass rail looks like toy train track".
But hey if you like brass, then use it. This is a hobby have fun.
Enjoy
Paul
IRONROOSTER Since we're sharing opinions here - some on the end of lit dynamite
IRONROOSTER I don't care how you dress it up, you just can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Or as my wife says "Brass rail looks like toy train track".
Ah. I see. You had to light one did you----
Now we are seeing some referring to brass rail as a 'sow's ear'. Well, this aesthete sees brass as having its own beauty so there----HAAARRRRUUUUUMMMPH!!
I don't think brass will win a realitometer contest with N/S but if someone is using it then I don't see a need to convert him to a new system--
"Anyway, Allegheny 2-6-6-6, you did ask why anybody would want to use brass, those of us who use it have said why, I hope you have the answer you were looking for. It is clear that those that poo-poo brass are those that never used it in the first place and are intent on convincing us that do that it is a bad thing instead of listening and learning from another thought process, another view point, in the world of model railroading. Not everybody fits into the same box"
When I asked my question I was inquisitive as to why anyone would still be so interested in using a clearly outdated product. No one can argue that point, It's the same as my friend who still uses Dynatrol for his control system. Sure in it's day it was top shelf but now barely bargain basement at best. (lets not start another rant about control systems now) Well he will argue the greatness of his dynatrol system over DCC til he's blue in the face but still can not come out and give me a definitive reason WHY it's better. I have an old Dumont TV and yes it still works as good a sit ever did since day one, does that mean it's just as good as a new TV of course not. Not to argue anyone's opinion on new vs old technology but generally speaking new is always better if not it doesn't stick around now does it. Remember video disc's, Beta-max, vinyl records? All good til something better came along or they were found not to be good enough.
Brass tack love it or hate it is clearly outdated material if it weren't then they would still be making it, if it works fine for you thats great if you hate it thats great too I really don't care. I was jsut curious as to what the fascination was and obviously still is with old out dated technology.
Making the comparison between old Brass locomotives to new resin models and comparing it to brass track vs nickle silver is just plain silly. It's an apples vs oranges comparison. Fine old Japanese brass models are true pieces of craftsmanship in the level of details they have and the quality standards that they were built to not the actual running characteristics of them. I know one of the best if not the best brass guy in the country and he upgrades every locomotive to can motors if they were just as good as the old stuff why would he do that and be making a fantastic business out of doing such upgrades along with upgrading them to DCC. as well.
I have had the pleasure of meeting and becoming friends with several of the country's best modelers, the likes of all whom have made the pages of MR several times and all the Allen Keller video series all published authors and qualified experts on the hobby and not one uses brass track so for my money and my personal quest of knowledge to be used on my railroad thats a good enough endorsement for me.
I never thought such a simple question would draw battle lines in the sand and have people get their backs up and be so danged defensive over something so silly as a piece of metal.
The fact that brass track is defended so vehemently speaks volumes about these forums... Paul & I have not always seen eye-to-eye but I'm behind him 100% in not quite understanding why brass track still has such a dedicated following when it is both mechanically and aesthetically inferior to nickel silver.
I can kind of understand it from a nostalgic perspective... But then, the reliability factor from oxidation is great enough it would be a huge hassle.
I can't say I can relate to not wanting to improve both the appearance and performance of my layout. In fact, I've recently switched over to the finer Atlas code 55 N scale track rather than the old code 80. I must constantly improve my work or frankly there's just no point in my mind to even bothering.
This forum has a broad member base, many of whom I clearly don't understand or can't relate to. I learned a long time ago that it's neither my place to try to influence them nor is it worth it. Instead I went out looking for places where I would be challenged and made to be a better modeler. Paul, if you're interested, PM me for a place you can go where modelers challenge one another to push the envelope.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
I still like the brass track with the fiber ties because it was a modeling track..You could paint the rail and bury the ties and have a convincing urban industrial track..
And Paul,I read your reply..
----------------------------------------
Dave,A lot of us older salt and pepper or snow beards no longer care to push the envelope,play follow MR's latest "golden boy",the latest MR push or hear falsehoods about brass track..After all we know brass track works just as good as NS,seen "golden boys" come and go and a lot of what MR pushes is straight from their advertisers..
Another thing is every modeler has their set modeling standards and is contended with what they allow.Nobody can change that.
Now,if you don't think I can't rip a model or layout apart by finding prototype inaccuracies you're sadly mistaken.I choose not to follow that path...I still enjoy old fashion common sense modeling.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Dave VollmerI can kind of understand it from a nostalgic perspective
Dave VollmerI learned some time ago that this place is not a forum for progressive modelers seeking to be challenged or seeking constructive critique
I'm not sure that brass rail has been the issue but it seems that what is the issue seems more about the idea that brass rail has become symbolic of a complaint against people being more 'set in their ways about things'. Using phrases like 'progressive' or 'nostalgic' doesn't seem very open to other people's differences either.
Techniques are, to me, not the issue. I love learning new ways to do stuff. My crab is more that there seems to be an issue with people being/doing things differently. That defensiveness we see is brought on by constantly questioning everything that the guy does------what are we doing here--trying to convert him from one belief system to another? Like some fundamentalists do? Iknow one fellow here who is on a FIXED income---very low $$$$ flow here---his layout is one that has been with him over 30 years. His locomotives/rolling stock is in very good working condition---all works on DC. His scratchbuilding of structures and scenery work are really good. But he does not have the latest of the latest locomotives/rolling stock---scenery pieces and all that. As I said---limited $$$ flow. He is still in the hobby and he enjoys it----his way---brass rails/ brass locomotives and all--new techniques for doing stuff intrigues him---
Buying new stuff because others say it is better not so much-----besides---kinda hard to do without the $$$$$ flow---
But then, I thought that this was a hobby----and not a some center of learning with marks and all that.
Brass rail has been out of favor since the 1960s for the smaller scales. None of my layouts or dioramas in HO scale (this is since the sixties) ever had brass rail and never will as long as there is a superior product electrically. Besides, all of it is oversized for HO and smaller scales. Brass or nickel silver, the sides need to be painted for appearance.
Regardless, brass-rail users don't need/want my validation. They follow their own drummers, and I follow mine.
Mark
Larry,
I don't follow MR's "latest golden boy" either... I have a core group of folks whose opinions I value and off whom I bounce my ideas and work. In fact, lately MR is playing a very small role in my evolution as a modeler.
Barry,
I actually pre-emptively edited my post because I realized "progressive" probably wasn't a fair word to use. I wasn't quick enough, though!
Everyone is free to enjoy whatever it is they want in this hobby. Brass track, kitty litter ballast, handlaid code 40, JMRI Pro, it really doesn't matter. But like the OP it doesn't mean I will always be able to understand or relate to the choices.
Dave,Clean kitty litter makes excellent rock rip rap in HO..N Scale ballast looks about right for HO.
Now,modelers makes tons of scenery mistakes that goes against Mother Nature..I find that odd since we been around Mother Nature all our lives.
We won't even discuss the operating,safety and work rules modelers break while operating their trains even if they claim to be operating prototypically.
Dave VollmerI actually pre-emptively edited my post because I realized "progressive" probably wasn't a fair word to use. I wasn't quick enough, though!
I thought so! Now I think that being a mexican jumping bean myself was kinda funny
I went and earmarked a number of those posts and threads of yours awhile back because of those ideas and techniques ------and yes---I did handlay code 40 rail---but only on an old spur!
Allegheny2-6-6-6Remember video disc's, Beta-max, vinyl records? All good til something better came along or they were found not to be good enough.
Totally off topic, but I have to stick up for vinyl records. Vinyl is a much better sounding/quality medium for recorded music. CD's are compressed files, and don't have the natural "musical" sound to them. Kind of like Tube amps vs. Solid State, if you know what I'm talking about. Anyway, I'll get out of the way now....
Larry -
A lot of us older salt and pepper or snow beards no longer care to push the envelope,play follow MR's latest "golden boy",the latest MR push or hear falsehoods about brass track..After all we know brass track works just as good as NS,seen "golden boys" come and go and a lot of what MR pushes is straight from their advertisers.. Another thing is every modeler has their set modeling standards and is contended with what they allow.Nobody can change that. Now,if you don't think I can't rip a model or layout apart by finding prototype inaccuracies you're sadly mistaken.I choose not to follow that path...I still enjoy old fashion common sense modeling.
Those were exactly my thoughts. Whether people want to hear this or not, what we are talking about here is a hobby and we are playing with toys - nothing more and nothing less. That's not a slur, but a good thing. As long as what some one is using fits THEIR needs and makes them happy, the best WE can do is help them with towards that end. The worst thing we can do is try to convince them that OUR way is better. (Yes Larry, I'm still using rapido couplers.) I don't recall anyone saying that brass rails were "better", just that the difference seems to be more noticeable in the literature, including marketing literature, than in practice.
As far as "looking better" or being more accurate, if someones goal is to win a contest, then sure. That's not why I do this stuff.
I do find it somewhat arrogant when people start ranting about something being better (whether it is or isn't), just because it's their choice.
Dave, you are a smart guy, Post Hole Digger and all, I have a question for you, that I asked earlier and got no response, if brass, as you say is "mechanicaly inferior" then why has it survived outside, in the elements, on my outdoor layout for 8 years without any of the alleged "bad" traits being noticed? If brass is inferior, then quantify that statement as to how. What is the adhesion coeficient compared to NS, the hardness, electrical conductivity, workability, and other attributes on a one to one comparison?
I think this is the point that sticks in my craw about the whole issue. Just because something is new, the old doesn't become obsolete, but many who never used the old find only bad things to say about it and try to convice everbody else that it is bad also. In other words, they are arguing from ignorance.
To sum up, I use brass because it is superior in every measurable area except visual (which can be fixed using chemical stains).
TJ,
I have no experience with brass or any other rail type outdoors. I'm speaking, as I believe the OP is, of purely indoor applications. For HO and N, the surface area where the wheel actually connects to the rail is far smaller than it is in G scale. Additionally, the weight of locomotives in HO and N is also considerably less than in G. Therefore the electrical connection between loco and rail in HO and N is far more tenuous than it is in G.
I just went through this exercise with the Lionel set around our Christmas tree. The rail is steel (which also corrodes differently than NS or brass). I noticed that the loco was slowing down in spots; it occurred to me that I had not cleaned the track in six years. When I did, the track appeared FILTHY. Yet the larger scale compensated at least somewhat for the filthy rail, forcing an electrical connection that would not have been there in a smaller scale. Suffice it to say I could not wait that long to clean the rails on my N scale Juniata Division given how little my locos weigh.
I had some brass track as a kid in HO, and it worked like crap compared to NS. So I am basing this part on experience.
I'm not trying to convince you that something might work better outdoors since I clearly don't know that. If you're liking brass in the yard then by all means stick with it.
Dave wrote:
-----------------------
I would hardly call train set snap track "experience" since there are other possibilities to include poor rail joiner connection along with inexperience..Like today experience modelers used brass flex track and avoided snap/sectional track and like today we had smooth running layouts.
To bad the "here today/gone tomorrow "experts" in magazines spread a lot of bull hockey concerning brass track that inexperience modelers swallow hook,line and sinker..NS track sure enough didn't stop the need to clean track as it was reported to need less cleaning..Now the "experts" has got everybody tying their Fruit Of The Looms in knots over worrying about cleaning track and some even suggest using chemicals or a high price track cleaning car..
New is better? In that case it makes one wonder doesn't it.
Dave Vollmer TJ, I have no experience with brass or any other rail type outdoors. I'm speaking, as I believe the OP is, of purely indoor applications. For HO and N, the surface area where the wheel actually connects to the rail is far smaller than it is in G scale. Additionally, the weight of locomotives in HO and N is also considerably less than in G. Therefore the electrical connection between loco and rail in HO and N is far more tenuous than it is in G. I just went through this exercise with the Lionel set around our Christmas tree. The rail is steel (which also corrodes differently than NS or brass). I noticed that the loco was slowing down in spots; it occurred to me that I had not cleaned the track in six years. When I did, the track appeared FILTHY. Yet the larger scale compensated at least somewhat for the filthy rail, forcing an electrical connection that would not have been there in a smaller scale. Suffice it to say I could not wait that long to clean the rails on my N scale Juniata Division given how little my locos weigh. I had some brass track as a kid in HO, and it worked like crap compared to NS. So I am basing this part on experience. I'm not trying to convince you that something might work better outdoors since I clearly don't know that. If you're liking brass in the yard then by all means stick with it.
Subjective arguments instead of facts? Dave, I'm ashamed of you. Perhaps your problems when you were a kid wasn't the track, but the underweight locos with electrical pick ups on only one set of wheels? If NS is so superior, then why are there hundreds of articles on how to improve electrical pick up on locos today? Clearly a problem with electrical conductivity exists with NS track, so that cannot alone be a reason to use it.
Once again, I use brass because it is a verifiably superior metal to NS.
Okay, clearly I'm the first and only person to ever express a subjective argument here!
I'm done with this.
BOY ! ! Do I agree with the above posts, BOY ! ! Do I disagree with the above posts. Some great facts about the maintenance and conductivity on brass vs.N/S. And this from a MR'r who really didn't know there was a difference between the two, I just bought used track and used it, thinking they were just different color, worked fine, happy as a clam, I promise never to post a comment on brass track again.
Interesting commentary - pros and cons but, time to let this post die quietly now. To slightly alter an old phrase, "It's your railroad, do what works for you and what fits your budget." No need to appologize or argue about your choices.
Chuck
Grand River & Monongah Railroad and subsidiary Monongah Railway
I hope the dialogue continues! I am enjoying the exchanges. I don't feel that we need to wrap this up just yet. I would like to encourage opinion, even to the point where some people feel they have said all they will say. It is sometimes best to move on to other threads, even if only for a day or two to let others pipe up if they wish to.