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Show Us Your Weathered Models II ...Critique & Criticism Welcome

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  • Member since
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Posted by Geared Steam on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:42 PM

Driline
You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt

 

Indeed he is, no comparison. I need about 500 of his trees as well. Big Smile

"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:33 PM

Neutrino
LaughLaugh 

 

It took you long enough! Where you been?

I thought you'd like that comment Smile

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by ProtoWeathering on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:07 PM

Driline

Geared Steam

The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

 

Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Smile Although Robbie is fast on his heels.

 

LaughLaugh 

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 1:00 PM

Geared Steam

The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

 

Ha! Remember my car was a 2 day job. You want to see a Pro look at Aggro's stuff. There is NO comparison. He's Rembrandt, and I'm in First grade using fingerpaints Smile Although Robbie is fast on his heels.

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by loathar on Monday, August 17, 2009 10:29 AM

TMarsh-That hopper looks like you used that liquid instant rust product on it. (the stuff that smells like vinager) I found if you add a couple drops of alcohol to that stuff it doesn't bead up as bad on the surface. I pour a little in a cap and add a couple drops of isopropyl. Works great for weathering trucks and wheels.

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Posted by Geared Steam on Monday, August 17, 2009 9:38 AM

Driline

Thanks for starting this thread and going to the trouble of listing step by step instructions. When I get to the point where I need to weather my cars, I will follow your instructions. The boxcar and flat look great, I don't see how you could improve them much more.

Robbie, Aggro, Grampy and others, nice work.  

"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein

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Posted by blownout cylinder on Monday, August 17, 2009 8:36 AM

A couple of peculiarities for your perusal here-----

On this one---a different colourization showed up

Also note the extra step up under the door

And then the patched--in metal--boxcar with an extreme dose of rustApprove

Things that make one go HMMMWhistling

Any argument carried far enough will end up in Semantics--Hartz's law of rhetoric Emerald. Leemer and Southern The route of the Sceptre Express Barry

I just started my blog site...more stuff to come...

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Posted by Driline on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:31 AM

TMarsh
First question, India ink. Does that seem to be the best to use as a black wash or would any water based black do? I do not have India Ink, I do have Folk Art. But there is a H.L. nearby so I can get some.

 

Not sure. I've always used India Ink. Now that I think about it. It may be only a few drops of ink per 3oz. of alcohol to get that washed look. So scratch the 50/50 mixture as I think that will be way to dark.

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by TMarsh on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:19 AM

Spidge- Much, much better! You got it going good with the two hoppers

Driline
So I'm challenging somebody.....anybody to try this and post your pics here.

Driline- I'll take you up. I've got an airbrush but I've been holding off until I get some more tips and checkout some more work of others before I destroy another car like I've done before. Twice. The powders I do not have..., yet. Because of my schedule and of course funding it may be relatively slow going but between this thread and some help Robby's offered I think the door has been opened wide to the world of weathering. I've got some old TYCO cars from my youth in the early 70's to use as practice so I'm not going on the greatness of the cars, but who knows I may end up changing couplers and wheels and using them!

Here's my failed attempt. Sort of a where I am now photo. No misconceptions it is good at all. It will be "erased" some day 

Soon, hopefully when I find the wifes camera, I'll select a car and post a before picture and then get started. I already have some reefer white Polyscale to fade with. so I've got all I need to get started. Big Smile

First question, India ink. Does that seem to be the best to use as a black wash or would any water based black do? I do not have India Ink, I do have Folk Art. But there is a H.L. nearby so I can get some.

Todd  

Central Illinoyz

In order to keep my position as Master and Supreme Ruler of the House, I don't argue with my wife.

I'm a small town boy. A product of two people from even smaller towns. I don’t talk on topic….. I just talk. Laugh

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Posted by Robby P. on Monday, August 17, 2009 7:06 AM

 Driline.....The "dark" spots was done with a mix of burnt umber (windsor newton oils), and dark weathering powders (dark red, and black). 

 "Rust, whats not to love?"      

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Posted by Boomer Red on Monday, August 17, 2009 12:23 AM
OUCH Dead LOL!       
elogger

AggroJones

Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.

In the mean time I'll shoot.


 

 

 

 

 

Laugh

 

 

jeremy

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Posted by elogger on Monday, August 17, 2009 12:08 AM

AggroJones

Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.

In the mean time I'll shoot.


 

 

 

 

 

Laugh

 

 

jeremy

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:50 PM

duckdogger

   Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.

Thats what I am working towards.

John

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:48 PM

Boomer Red

 I'm definitely not in the same league as you guy's but I thought I'd toss this in anyway. I built this car about ten years ago so it's a little crude but oh well.Smile

 

Crude! Are you kidding me? Very nice. Wood chips under the logs, nicely weathered sides, rusted up trucks, and we can still read the reporting #'s.

I think your holding back.

John

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Posted by duckdogger on Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:46 PM

 Driline and Robbie - good job. Looks very real.  Boomer, the car has a subtle aged look.  Not every car is a rust bucket- they all start shiny and new and acquire their personality gradually.

Trains. Cooking. Cycling. So many choices but so little time.
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Posted by Boomer Red on Sunday, August 16, 2009 11:34 PM

 I'm definitely not in the same league as you guy's but I thought I'd toss this in anyway. I built this car about ten years ago so it's a little crude but oh well.Smile

 

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:34 PM

Driline

Robby P.

 I guess I will jump in.  Hopefully it won't get locked.  Just a couple of old shots!!  "Ann Arbor car was shot inside.  Seems like it wanted to rain that day".


 


 

 

 

 

Extremely Nice. 

Question. What did you do to achieve the "DARK" rust spots on the side of this boxcar?

  1. Gouache color?
  2. Specific powder color?

I would like to know how to do the rust pits to.

What is the difference between Gouache and oil paints?

Aggro, I guess I need to send you a SD card for further instructions?

John

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Posted by AggroJones on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:24 PM

Trust me. A squad has been dispatched to come over to this forum and down everyone here til the thread is locked.

In the mean time I'll shoot.

 

 

 

"Being misunderstood is the fate of all true geniuses"

EXPERIMENTATION TO BRING INNOVATION

http://community.webshots.com/album/288541251nntnEK?start=588

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Posted by Driline on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:23 PM

Robby P.

 I guess I will jump in.  Hopefully it won't get locked.  Just a couple of old shots!!  "Ann Arbor car was shot inside.  Seems like it wanted to rain that day".

 

 

 

 

 

Extremely Nice. 

Question. What did you do to achieve the "DARK" rust spots on the side of this boxcar?

  1. Gouache color?
  2. Specific powder color?
Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by Driline on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:21 PM

 One more little tidbit. Photograph your weathered models OUTSIDE if at all possible. Most of us don't have a nice camera studio with plenty of light like Robby.Smile

They'll look sooooo much better outside and we can actually SEE them.

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by Driline on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:16 PM

 I guess one of my main points here is that YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE A PRO to achieve this level of weathering. This is was my 2nd train car EVER. The first was this flatcar you see here.


So I'm challenging somebody.....anybody to try this and post your pics here. Obviously you'll have to have the following items

  • AirBrush
  • Sophisticated Finishes "rust" purchased at Michaels craft store
  • Gouache Burnt Sienna purchased at Michaels craft store
  • India Ink Alcohol wash 
  • A.I.M. or Bragdon powders
  • Pollyscale Paint
Or try any other item that was suggested by other posters here.......
Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by Driline on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:09 PM

Packers#1
What PSI did you use on the white paint? I've always wanted to fade my cars, never tried it because I didn't have an airbrush.

 

Ok, I'd like to use you as a guinea pig. If I can make my boxcar look like that on only two try's certainly you can too. I use PSI 40. Well as soon as you get an airbrush lets get you started Smile

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by Driline on Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:06 PM

Robby P.

John........Just practice and lots of patience.   Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote.   I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush.  Let that dry for a day.  Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different).  Dullcote.  Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc.  Dullcote.  Let that dry.  Then I do the underneath.  I just do a dusty/grime look.  With a mix of powders.  Dullcote, and let that dry.  I always do the roof last.   I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash.

 Hope this helps.

 

Excellent Robby. This is what I was hoping for. Some of you Pro's out there please list EXACTLY what steps you took to achieve your final weathered product. Step1...Step2....Step3...etc. etc...

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:44 PM

Gramps, nice weathering job.

John

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:42 PM

OK, I used some turpentine to remove some of the excess weathering done on these hoppers. I then restreaked the cars with no additional paint as there was plenty already there, and allowed them to dry some. I know they need more dry time but I will do a full day next time. I sealed with Dulcoat and added some chalk over the top and Dulcoated again. It was to late to add the chalks before the paint on these cars but next time I will follow Robby's recomendations.

The first pick is the prototype I was shooting for on the Cargill car.

spidge8-28-08001.jpg Hopper in siding in Colton CA. picture by exceller8

weathering3008.jpg weathering. picture by exceller8

weathering3009.jpg weathering picture by exceller8

Thanks again Robby.

John

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Posted by Grampys Trains on Sunday, August 16, 2009 9:38 PM

Thanks, Driline for starting a weathering thread. Good work, everyone. Here's a B&M boxcar I just did tonite.

 

 

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 7:53 PM

Robby P.

John........Just practice and lots of patience.   Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote.   I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush.  Let that dry for a day.  Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different).  Dullcote.  Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc.  Dullcote.  Let that dry.  Then I do the underneath.  I just do a dusty/grime look.  With a mix of powders.  Dullcote, and let that dry.  I always do the roof last.   I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash.

 Hope this helps.

Thanks Robby. It does help a lot. Its the lack of chalk before the pits and streaks that I am missing.

You the MAN.

John

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Posted by Robby P. on Sunday, August 16, 2009 7:49 PM

John........Just practice and lots of patience.   Some thin brushes, powders, oils, and some dullcote.   I start with a fade of "testors white" air brush.  Let that dry for a day.  Then I take some powders and go along the ribs of the boxcars (hoppers are done different).  Dullcote.  Let that dry, and then add some rust pits, streaks, etc.  Dullcote.  Let that dry.  Then I do the underneath.  I just do a dusty/grime look.  With a mix of powders.  Dullcote, and let that dry.  I always do the roof last.   I sometimes use the real rusting agent, but most of the time its a rust color wash.

 Hope this helps.

 "Rust, whats not to love?"      

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 7:41 PM

Robby, nice weathering as usual. Care to share some of your techniques here?

 

John

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Posted by spidge on Sunday, August 16, 2009 7:39 PM

 

tatans

Great work, hard to tell from real stuff, I wonder how the guys feel with their 500 cars that are bright and shiny (fresh off the lot) feel when they see photos such as these? do they actually go into shock, as you may note I'm from the "If it ain't weathered, it ain't finished" school.  Nice work, guys.

You mean like at many train shows.

John

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