http://www.nhshobbies.com/product_p/atl65.htm
Does anyone know if these are remote or manual?? I see the 3 screw hole contacts, but I don't see the "hump" that would house the twin coils like on the deluxe under table machines.
lvanhen wrote:Remote - elect operated - AND A BEAR TO LINE-UP!!!
This is so true Loathar, try one before you buy any qty. I had 12, sold them off on Ebay at a slight loss. These things are a pain.
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
Remote, but unreliable. Used to use but no more.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
They can be reasonably reliable. However, they are hard to mount and you need to drill the biggest diameter hole possible through the subroadbed and roadbed so that the vertical pin can snap back and forth without contacting the sides of the hole.
They are a lot cheaper than some of the other options ... like the high quality slow motion turtle machines.
Also, they look a lot better than the surface mount machines ...
Marty
www.oakhurstrailroad.com
"Oakhurst Railroad" on Facebook
Oakhurst Railroad Engineer wrote: They can be reasonably reliable. However, they are hard to mount and you need to drill the biggest diameter hole possible through the subroadbed and roadbed so the the vertical pin can snap back and forth without contacting the sides of the hole.They are a lot cheaper than some of the other options ... like the high quality slow motion turtle machines.Also, they look a lot better than the surface mount machines ...Marty
They can be reasonably reliable. However, they are hard to mount and you need to drill the biggest diameter hole possible through the subroadbed and roadbed so the the vertical pin can snap back and forth without contacting the sides of the hole.
You have to drill a big hole for the tortoise too.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I use the Atlas machines for all of my under-the-table installations, and I have been reasonably satisfied. Although they are difficult to install, for $5 a machine I'm not complaining.
The first one I didn't do (failed, like a poster above, with a lot of copper wire and tubing) took 6hrs. No kidding. The first one I did successfully took 2 hrs. The last one I did took about 10 minutes. Lessons I've learned after doing 7 of them, all of which are fairly obvious to a skilled modeler unlike myself, but after so much work I might as well share them:
3/8 inch hole is fine if you are perfectly accurate. 1/2 inch hole is almost always the safe size.
These things must be installed very accurately - there is no extra movement built in. Don't try to screw these things in as indicated by the mounting holes. Though you are guaranteed that the machine won't move, there is no guarantee that it didn't move while you screwed it in. Instead, just glue it underneath with a clear adhesive. Test it, then apply glue, replace, and wiggle it around until you get it perfectly positioned.
Insert the machine in the middle position. Don't try from either side.
Thinner the separation, the better. 1/2 in including roadbed is ideal, 3/4 in is max. These machines are fairly flimsy, so their energy is easily lost to length or vibration.
The turnout must be solidly placed. Any wiggle in the turnout body itself and all the energy will be lost.
Hope it helps,
loathar wrote: http://www.nhshobbies.com/product_p/atl65.htmDoes anyone know if these are remote or manual?? I see the 3 screw hole contacts, but I don't see the "hump" that would house the twin coils like on the deluxe under table machines.
It looks like like a dummy in a twin coil housing, and priced like a dummy - unless you believe in the 'something-for- nothing - like a $15 item for less than $6?
ATLAS switch machines are designed for table top mounting and the hidden 'under-table machine is an abomination -make that a 'cheap abomination' - to appeal to those wishing to improve appearances on the 'cheap'.
Tortoise's are superior, as are RIX/RAX, and Peco, for dependable and properly designed under table mounts - plus they can be 'adjusted' for best operation.
SINCE Switches account for 90% of your derailments, IS THIS the place to try and save money?
Don said: ATLAS switch machines are designed for table top mounting and the hidden 'under-table machine is an abomination -make that a 'cheap abomination' - to appeal to those wishing to improve appearances on the 'cheap'.
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Whoa! Folks this may be historic moment...I actually agree with Don!!!
We tried these at one club and didn't like 'em.We returned to switch mounts.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
Certainly looks like the beast!!!
I am in the early stages of building a new layout and one of the debates I've been having with myself is whether to use the Atlas under-the-table switch machines. I built a couple of layouts using them and once installed they worked fine. Installation however is best yet to a younger man. The last layout I built was some 10 years ago and it was a struggle. I can't imagine doing all of that crawling around under the benchwork again. I am seriously considering going with all manual ground throws and using walkaround throttles. Any hidden switches I will use above the table type.
Ain't getting old grand!!!!
'there's something happening here, what it is ain't exactly clear' Modeling the Hard Knox Valley Railroad in HO scale http://photos.hardknoxvalley.com/
The ATLAS above-the-table mount was desingned for Atlas pre-fab switch, (metal ringed holes to make errors next to impossible) - wheras the under-the-table was an adaptation of an existing product. Anyone thinking 'under-the-table mounts should rethink their choices -
Such as a RIX RACK 005 -004 Combination.
Designed for model RR'ers by a model RR'er.'
BRAKIE:
Could be we're getting smarter with age? That includes ME.
I guess with a whole year and a half at this I'm getting to be a old hand at MR-ing. With money being a problem I took the Atlas dual coil above table and flipped them over and installed them under the table. I made a little bell crank that extends through any thickness I need to reach the turn out. I allso made a power supply that zaps the dual coil with about 25-30 volts for a very short time and then won't supply anymore power untill you release the button. This keeps you from burning up the motors. I don't type well enough to explain the system again, but search for under table adapters under my thread. It's on the forum. Others helped me maybe this will help somebody else. I didn,t like the under table Atlas moters either.
Happy railroading
Lee