Atlas Switch Machines

[loathar]

Thanks all. I am probably going to use the Rix machines. (how can you beat $6 for a machine with contacts???) After seeing the manual under table Atlas machine at my hobby shop, I just needed some clarification as to if these were remote or manual.

[yankee flyer]

    I guess with a whole year and a half at this I'm getting to be a old hand at MR-ing.     With money being a problem I took the Atlas dual coil above table and flipped them over and installed them under the table. I made a little bell crank that extends through any thickness I need to reach the turn out. I allso made a power supply that zaps the dual coil with about 25-30 volts for a very short time and then won't supply anymore power untill you release the button. This  keeps you from burning up the motors. I don't type well enough to explain the system again, but  search for under table adapters under my thread. It's on the forum. Others helped me maybe this will help somebody else. I didn,t like the under table Atlas moters either.

Happy railroading 

Lee

[jxtrrx]

I've never used the Rix Rax, but sure agree with Don that Tortoise is far superior to the SNAP method.  Yes, more costly up front, but you know you're eventually going to fry the electronics on the Atlas, so then you've paid twice.  (Essentailly the ONLY Atlas product I have any criticism of).   I have never regretted buying Tortoise machines.

[Don Gibson]

The ATLAS above-the-table mount was desingned for Atlas pre-fab switch, (metal ringed holes to make errors next to impossible) - wheras the under-the-table was an adaptation of an existing product. Anyone thinking 'under-the-table mounts should rethink their choices -

Such as a RIX RACK 005 -004 Combination.

Designed for model RR'ers by a model RR'er.'

BRAKIE:

Could be we're getting smarter with age? That includes ME.

[mainetrains]

Certainly looks like the beast!!!

I am in the early stages of building a new layout and one of the debates I've been having with myself is whether to use the Atlas under-the-table switch machines. I built a couple of layouts using them and once installed they worked fine. Installation however is best yet to a younger man. The last layout I built was some 10 years ago and it was a struggle. I can't imagine doing all of that crawling around under the benchwork again. I am seriously considering going with all manual ground throws and using walkaround throttles. Any hidden switches I will use above the table type.

Ain't getting old grand!!!!

[BRAKIE]

Don said: ATLAS switch machines are designed for  table top mounting and the hidden 'under-table machine is an abomination -make that a 'cheap abomination' - to appeal to those wishing to improve appearances on the 'cheap'.

------------

Whoa! Folks this may be historic moment...I actually agree with Don!!!

We tried these at one club and didn't like 'em.We returned to switch mounts.

[Don Gibson]

http://www.nhshobbies.com/product_p/atl65.htm

Does anyone know if these are remote or manual?? I see the 3 screw hole contacts, but I don't see the "hump" that would house the twin coils like on the deluxe under table machines.

It looks like like a dummy in a twin coil housing, and priced like a dummy - unless you believe in the 'something-for- nothing - like a $15 item for less than $6?

ATLAS switch machines are designed for  table top mounting and the hidden 'under-table machine is an abomination -make that a 'cheap abomination' - to appeal to those wishing to improve appearances on the 'cheap'.

Tortoise's are superior, as are RIX/RAX, and Peco, for dependable and properly designed under table mounts - plus they can be 'adjusted' for best operation.

SINCE Switches account for 90% of your derailments, IS THIS the place to try and save money?

[railroadyoshi]

I use the Atlas machines for all of my under-the-table installations, and I have been reasonably satisfied. Although they are difficult to install, for $5 a machine I'm not complaining.

The first one I didn't do (failed, like a poster above, with a lot of copper wire and tubing) took 6hrs. No kidding. The first one I did successfully took 2 hrs. The last one I did took about 10 minutes. Lessons I've learned after doing 7 of them, all of which are fairly obvious to a skilled modeler unlike myself, but after so much work I might as well share them:

3/8 inch hole is fine if you are perfectly accurate. 1/2 inch hole is almost always the safe size.

These things must be installed very accurately - there is no extra movement built in. Don't try to screw these things in as indicated by the mounting holes. Though you are guaranteed that the machine won't move, there is no guarantee that it didn't move while you screwed it in. Instead, just glue it underneath with a clear adhesive. Test it, then apply glue, replace, and wiggle it around until you get it perfectly positioned.

Insert the machine in the middle position. Don't try from either side.

Thinner the separation, the better. 1/2 in including roadbed is ideal, 3/4 in is max. These machines are fairly flimsy, so their energy is easily lost to length or vibration.

The turnout must be solidly placed. Any wiggle in the turnout body itself and all the energy will be lost.

Hope it helps, 

[loathar]

You guys have me nervous now. I drilled 3/8" holes under my turnouts. Should I have gone bigger? My table top is 5/8" thick and I'm probably going to go with the Rix twin coil machines with frog contacts. Found them for $5.99/each.

[gandydancer19]

They can be reasonably reliable.  However, they are hard to mount and you need to drill the biggest diameter hole possible through the subroadbed and roadbed so the the vertical pin can snap back and forth without contacting the sides of the hole.

They are a lot cheaper than some of the other options ... like the high quality slow motion turtle machines.

Also, they look a lot better than the surface mount machines ...

Marty

You have to drill a big hole for the tortoise too.

[Oakhurst Railroad Engineer]

They can be reasonably reliable.  However, they are hard to mount and you need to drill the biggest diameter hole possible through the subroadbed and roadbed so that the vertical pin can snap back and forth without contacting the sides of the hole.

They are a lot cheaper than some of the other options ... like the high quality slow motion turtle machines.

Also, they look a lot better than the surface mount machines ...

Marty

[mikesmowers]

  I had one in use on my HO layout before I dissembled it. It was the most dependable turn out control I had on the layout, never gave me a bit of trouble. The rest were Atlas that mounted at the side of the tracks.      Mike

[larak]

Won't throw a TO through 2" foam even with a piano wire extension replacing the plastic "pin".

[PMeyer]

Remote, but unreliable. Used to use but no more.

 

[lvanhen]

Possibly to hide the linkage?

[loathar]

Thanks. The reason I asked is I just saw some really old ones at my(not so) LHS. They were a different part # but definately manual. They had no brass threads where the 3 wire hook ups were and a white slider switch on the bottom side like the above table manual ones have. Couldn't figure out why in the heck you'd want to mount a manual control under your layout??

[Geared Steam]

Remote - elect operated - AND A BEAR TO LINE-UP!!!

 

This is so true Loathar, try one before you buy any qty. I had 12, sold them off on Ebay at a slight loss. These things are a pain.

 

[lvanhen]

Remote - elect operated - AND A BEAR TO LINE-UP!!!

[cacole]

The picture is of the bottom of the switch motor; the side that mounts to the underside of the layout, so yes, they are remote controlled electrical switch machines.

[loathar]

http://www.nhshobbies.com/product_p/atl65.htm

Does anyone know if these are remote or manual?? I see the 3 screw hole contacts, but I don't see the "hump" that would house the twin coils like on the deluxe under table machines.