The "N" crowd: Part II

[pcarrell]

Hey, I just happened to think (quit laughing!), not everyone may know about this.

There is a website that you should probably know about if you're going to play with the vintage stuff in N scale.  It's got a great review of many of the earlier loco's, and some more recent, that have been done in N scale.  The website is run by a guy who calls himself "Spookshow" and it includes a great N scale encyclopedia, among other things.  You can get there by clicking this link here. 

Enjoy!

[wm3798]

If you can find them, Micro Trains made a 35' flat back in the Kadee days...  I don't know if they've released it since.  Also, there's an ancient AHM car, also 35'. They came two to a package, and show up at swap meets and occasionally on eBay.

I converted one to a tourist car.

Lee 

[pcarrell]

Athearn also has some good creamery cars and head end cars.  Really, the biggest hole that I know of is that I don't know of a good flatcar for the earlier steam era.  The Bachmann old timer is about it, and it's short.

[wm3798]

Bachmann has an outside braced wood boxcar in its repertoire, as well as a 3 dome tank.  Roundhouse/Athearn has a series of ice reefers, Atlas has some early style boxcars and 2 bay hoppers, and Microtrains has a pretty good selection of reefers, tanks and hoppers if you can afford to compete with the collectors out there.

Lee 

[Cederstrand]

Quick question: Who currently makes steam era freight cars, including both early and late? (sorry if this topic was covered) Thanks!

Rob

[Blue Flamer]

Bump, Bump.

Blue Flamer. 

[wm3798]

There are several good sources.  MicroTrains makes a version of the Railbox, as do MDC/Athearn/Roundhouse, Atlas, and most recenly, Fox Valley Models.

Lee 

[jwils1]

Modern era freight cars:

Who manufactures N scale modern era cars?  I'm specifically talking about the current style box cars that you see today, the larger, taller ones.

[wm3798]

Not to be overly critical, but a Bachmann GP-40 is not what you'd call a "hobby quality" model... it's a junky train set engine, and is best used as a paper weight, or a door stop.  Before you get overly involved in changing the couplers, think about moving up to an Atlas or Kato locomotive.  They come with knuckle couplers these days, and are far superior to your Bachmann in terms of appearance, performance and overall value.

Many moons ago those old Bachmann Crap Masters were the staple of my fleet, so I know their shortcomings...

Move on, move up, you'll be much happier with the results.

Lee 

[Anonymous]

Sorry all, I was infact talking about the rapido couplers on the front of the engine, I have a Bachmann GP-40 with those and it just makes it look ugly.(in my opinion). At the moment I don't have any Steam on my layout. Sorry for the confusion.

 

I'm still confused as to what couplers to actually use because of the wide selection. To be honest I'm not even real sure what to look for, or the difference between one or the other.

 

thank you all for offering the information, this is one of the reasons I love this hobby so much!!!!!

Thanks Norman.......

 

[Wdlgln005]

A Nscale version of the Music City Star won 3rd place in the MR Pike size Passenger train contest. Way to go, Richard Thomason of GA. Nice 4page article, using a Kato F40 & 2 concor Gallery cars.

Nice looking models, too.  

[pcarrell]

Blue Flamer, I think he was talking about Rapido's on his loco's (front & back).

I guess my wife is correct. Sometimes I am wrong.    Thanks for the correction Philip.

Your wife and mine must be friends! 

Hope that your son is doing well.

He is, thanks for asking! He's walking and doing stairs even. His surgery was only a week ago today.

[pcarrell]

Thanks, My loco looks like the picture you have at the bottom of your post (not sure what you call them, Signature?). I had opened up the tender and it is full of weight and no room for a decoder of any type. Crap, I really want to DCCenize this thing.

Al

There's still hope!

One way to go would be to remove the weight and install the decoder.  Cover it with electrical tape, then get some lead putty and fill every nook and cranny to get the weight back up so the tender pick-ups will work good.  A-line (P.O.Box 7916, La Verne, CA 91750) makes moldable lead putty (part #13010), available in some hobby shops and sporting goods stores (about $2.50/oz).

Another way to go would be similar to this.  If someone can get a decoder in a Bachmann 4-4-0 (a tennie, tiny locomotive), then I'm sure it can be done for the Atlas loco which is larger.

[Blue Flamer]

Blue Flamer, I think he was talking about Rapido's on his loco's (front & back).

I guess my wife is correct. Sometimes I am wrong.    Thanks for the correction Philip.

Hope that your son is doing well.

Blue Flamer. 

[Alroy66]

Thanks, My loco looks like the picture you have at the bottom of your post (not sure what you call them, Signature?). I had opened up the tender and it is full of weight and no room for a decoder of any type. Crap, I really want to DCCenize this thing.

Al

[pcarrell]

Blue Flamer, I think he was talking about Rapido's on his loco's (front & back).

[Blue Flamer]

hey all, I'm fairly new to N scale, and before now never really thought about detailing or making any changes to my engines or rolling stock. So I was wondering what kind of couplers would be best for a more prototype look. I have a few "Micro Trains" boxcars and I really like the couplers on them, but are they realistic? And the engines just have the hook which definitely has to be changed. And also do I need to change the trunks to.......

 

thank....Norman......

t_valley.

to the "N" Crowd: Part II.

I could be wrong here, (it wouldn't be the first time in my life, just ask my wife) but every model steam loco that I can ever recall seeing never had a coupler between the engine and the tender. They are usually hard connected with a solid bar. Maybe one of the more informed ladies/gentlemen would correct me if I am wrong.

My personal opinion is that you cannot go wrong using QUALITY COUPLERS. I had some of the look-a-likes on some rolling stock that I was given and half of them either fell apart on the track or continually uncoupled. All my rolling stock get changed to Micro Trains couplers and they are installed using the Micro Trains height gage. Now, I never have problems other than ones caused by myself. 

Blue Flamer. 

[pcarrell]

pcarrell,

You mentioned you had replaced the trucks on the old Bachmann old timers passenger cars. I have some as well what Micro Trains trucks did you use?

I bought a bunch of the old timers cars at a train show, so I bought a bulk pack of the assembled Archbar trucks with the low pro's and assembled couplers (short shank since I have large curves)(Part # 003 10 001).  The Archbars are appropriate for that era car and could be used in interchange service until the early 30's (the original outlaw date was 1929 I think, but they gave a few years grace).  Andrews trucks would be appropriate for after that, though these cars would be very old by then and would either be on their way out, in MOW service, or plying the rails of some run down shortlines somewhere by then (like mine).  You could also use Bettendorf trucks as those would fit the later years too.

Also the Atlas 4-6-0 Mogul...has anyone ever put a decoder in one of these?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but since the motor is in the cab (and the boiler is TINY), isn't the tender empty?  I'd put one of the smaller N scale decoders in there and just hardwire that puppy.  Paint the wires black to look like the water hoses and such that go from the tender to the loco.  I'm thinking of the Atlas 2-6-0 Mogul though, so maybe we're talking apples and oranges?

[n2mopac]

hey all, I'm fairly new to N scale, and before now never really thought about detailing or making any changes to my engines or rolling stock. So I was wondering what kind of couplers would be best for a more prototype look. I have a few "Micro Trains" boxcars and I really like the couplers on them, but are they realistic? And the engines just have the hook which definately has to be changed. And also do I need to change the trunks to.......

 

thank....Norman......

I use all micro trains myself, but I've been reading more and more about N scalers using body mount Z scale couplers for a more prototypical size/look.

Ron

[wm3798]

Radius for modern era?

I'm working on my N scale track plan and have a question:

I'll be running modern era equipment and according to NMRA standards a 19" radius should be fine.  I'm unsing Kato Unitrack and their #4 turnouts provide a 19" radius on the diverging route.  None of my turnouts will be high-speed so will the #4 be okay?  I like it better than the #6.

Would there be any problem with S curves, like a siding where the next track section off of the diverging route is a 19" radius curving the other way?

A longer turnout will always look and function better than a short one.  If you have room for #6, use that.

I'm using Atlas c55 track, and use #7's on my mains (I'll be replacing some with the new #10's) and reserve the smaller #5's for my industrial areas. 

Lee 

[Anonymous]

hey all, I'm fairly new to N scale, and before now never really thought about detailing or making any changes to my engines or rolling stock. So I was wondering what kind of couplers would be best for a more prototype look. I have a few "Micro Trains" boxcars and I really like the couplers on them, but are they realistic? And the engines just have the hook which definately has to be changed. And also do I need to change the trunks to.......

 

thank....Norman......

[Alroy66]

pcarrell,

You mentioned you had replaced the trucks on the old Bachmann old timers passenger cars. I have some as well what Micro Trains trucks did you use?

Also the Atlas 4-6-0 Mogul...has anyone ever put a decoder in one of these?

 

Al

[n2mopac]

I'm away for a few weeks and what happens? You all pack up, lock the doors, and move. Good thing I had you tagged with my GPS.

Ron

[jwils1]

Radius for modern era?

I'm working on my N scale track plan and have a question:

I'll be running modern era equipment and according to NMRA standards a 19" radius should be fine.  I'm unsing Kato Unitrack and their #4 turnouts provide a 19" radius on the diverging route.  None of my turnouts will be high-speed so will the #4 be okay?  I like it better than the #6.

Would there be any problem with S curves, like a siding where the next track section off of the diverging route is a 19" radius curving the other way?

[Packers#1]

Why did it close?

I noticed that the "Elliots Trackside Dinner" also closed and they made a new one.

Bergie said it was for "Spring cleaning", as he called it. Packers rule. nuf said.

[Packers#1]

Sorry, anyone but a Packers fan. I'm going to lock this so someone else can start a new part II.

Signed, Bergie (the Bears fan)

Hardy-Har-Har. I got an aunt, uncle and three cousins in Chicago, been there twice, and been to Soldier field(soccer game). Exact opposite for Wisconsin. To put my first train-related post on my thread, I got a little scenery down on my mini-layout, which I now call "Rural Line". 

[Dave Vollmer]

Dave I do believe that if you posted any info on the general disscusion people would first think of N for you.  You seem to be the TOP DOG of the N scalers.  You sure know your stuff. 

Well, thank you...  But I am far from a TOP DOG of anything.  I'm just good at making it sound as if I know my stuff!

[R. T. POTEET]

As Dave V stated in his 7:25pm entry, it has been nice to have a mini-forum where their was only a minimal possibility of confusion in the scale referenced in a response; unless a response specifically references a scale other than HO-Scale I automatically assume that HO-Scale is the scale being referenced. Such is life I suppose. 

[4-6-6-4 Challenger]

Dave I do believe that if you posted any info on the general disscusion people would first think of N for you.  You seem to be the TOP DOG of the N scalers.  You sure know your stuff. 

[Jimmydieselfan]

N Scale is where its at. HO takes up too much space. Plus you don't have as tight of radius.