Selector removed my previous 999 post so heres my 1,000
Oh, the agony......the humiliation......
Driline wrote: MY 1,000th POST! This MAKES ME A SUPER Model Railroad Genius with ALL THE ANSWERS! I now submit my PERFECT FLAWLESS LAYOUT FOR ALL YOU LITTLE PEOPLE OUT THERE STRIVING TO BE PERFECT LIKE ME BUT ALAS WILL NEVER ATTAIN MY SUPERIORITY.
MY 1,000th POST! This MAKES ME A SUPER Model Railroad Genius with ALL THE ANSWERS!
I now submit my PERFECT FLAWLESS LAYOUT FOR ALL YOU LITTLE PEOPLE OUT THERE STRIVING TO BE PERFECT LIKE ME BUT ALAS WILL NEVER ATTAIN MY SUPERIORITY.
Nice use of color.
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
This bridge needs something.....I'm not sure what. I've sprayed rust on the gussets, but haven't used chalk yet.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Don't spray on the rust. It looks more like camouflage than rust. Try multiple layers of dark brown washes, then dry brush on some lighter rust highlights... The light rust would also likely be more even over the structure, with heavier applications at the bottom and in cravasses where water would likely lay.
Behold.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
Driline-The black looks too monotone. Needs some fading and variation. Try swapping the rust in the airbrush for some light grey or white and repeating what you did with the rust color. Could also use some rust and grime streaks dripping down.
Edit-Try a little redder rust color like in Lee's pic. Iron usually doesn't produce a tan colored rust.
Driline,
I agree with the others, the bridge something more than airbrushing and the rust color is too light. That color might be better suited for newly formed rust. You want the darker rust like in WM3798's picture.
A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. The applications of the reactant you apply the darker it will get. I'd also try drybrushing the rivets on the gusset plates with like a burnt sienna color. This should get the rivets to 'pop' and not be lost is a flat black paint job. I've got a single track truss built to do the same thing to. Maybe I should get started on it and we can compare results? Also, you might consider repainting it flat black again so you're back to a clean slate.
jktrains
jktrains wrote: Driline, A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. jktrains
A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. jktrains
JK, The bridge project was merely a ploy for you to divulge your "rust" secrets. I'm so clever I can't stand myself Then again neither can most other people.
Thanks...I will be looking for that stuff at Hobby Lobby. Do you also use acrylics as a base before you apply the "rust" mixture?
loathar wrote:Driline-Hob Lob doesn't carry it. (mine doesn't) Michaels and JoAnnes are supposed to.
Dang it. You're right. I was just there. No joy.
When I first built the fly-over bridge in front of Andy's closet door, I put the west end of the run-around right there, figuring I'd only need it to switch a couple of cars to the two industries there. I quickly realized that the Penn Central turn would typically need more room, and also a longer siding would help facilitate thru trains while the local was switching, thereby opening up better traffic flow. So Friday night I soaked the ballast, and made with the putty knife.
Fortunately, the local Hobby Town now carries C-55 track (albeit at list price! :P) so I was able to also replace the turnout, which had been repaired after a track cleaning incident, and never quite worked properly... So now I have a siding that can easily stow a 10 car local. Also, westbound trains can now move up off the drawbridge across the aisle before holding for any eastbounds headed for staging.
I also finished up two decoder installations for Bobcat...Here they are at the fuel rack, fresh from the shops.We'll be pressing these into service next weekend before shipping them back to their home road... ;D
I'm modelling the mid-to late-'30s, so all of my bridges are fairly well maintained. However, rust will tend to occur and collect where water cannot easily drain away. I've found that painting the bridge with the rust colour first works well, paying particular attention to all the nooks and crannies and inside corners. When you paint the bridge colour over this, don't be so fastidious trying to get full coverage - this will leave those hard-to-get-at areas already rusted. You can then add more severe rust effects where you want them. Also, note in the prototype photo, above, that the rivets are not an area that rusts as readily as the metal through which they've been installed - this is because paint adheres so well to a convex surface like the head of a rivet. Of course, these too will rust over time.
Wayne
Driline wrote:wm3798. I like the look of your layout. Is it a shelf layout and what are the dimensions?
Thank you.
Parts of it are on a shelf, and the main part is an L-girder rig about 3' x 12' with a 4x3 L. You can read all about it at my website (link below my sig)
My first attempt ever at Ballasting.
So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.
Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.
I went with the CNW & Santa Fe "Mauve" MEDIUM color and size from AZ Rock and Mineral Company. It actually looks great. I'm glad I went with the medium size. It does more closely resemble the real stone in size. The color is absolutely perfect.
I bought the stuff in Des Moines at Hobby Haven. (3 hours away from me).
Is 6 hours round trip crazy to drive for 10 bucks worth of ballast?
secondhandmodeler wrote: Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.What did you go with for ballast color and size? Part of my next layout is C&NW and requires the same color ballast I believe.
You should note however that the CNW Mauve ballast is located on the track my engine is sitting on. The side yard to the right is a "fine" ballast mix that includes "pink lady" as the main color.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
rs2mike wrote: Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.drillline the ballast looks great. My question is on your weeds in the right trackage. Do you not have any worries about catching something like a coupler on these? Or do they not give you any problems.
No worries mate. The coupler just moves through those weeds with no problem.
sweet I am going to try that with mine too. Looks really good mate.
Driline wrote:Gee, you'd think we were Australians with all this "mate" stuff. Tie me Kangaroo down.
ROFL! That's what I thought, till I saw he was from Ohio!
Driline wrote: I went with the CNW & Santa Fe "Mauve" MEDIUM color and size from AZ Rock and Mineral Company. It actually looks great. I'm glad I went with the medium size. It does more closely resemble the real stone in size. The color is absolutely perfect.I bought the stuff in Des Moines at Hobby Haven. (3 hours away from me). Is 6 hours round trip crazy to drive for 10 bucks worth of ballast?
Ok here's my latest scratchbuild project and I have a question. What is the best way to cut out holes in "pikestuff" styrene so that I can insert my windows and doors? Plain old xacto knife?
This is the Current 'ICE" formerly Davenport & Rock Island Bettendorf Yard office. I am going to build a close replica to stand on my layout as the center piece of the yard.
And here is what I've completed so far....(walls are not glued yet, need to cut out window and door openings first). The shingle material is also great looking stuff.
I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.
I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.
doctorwayne wrote: I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.Wayne
I see there is a Dr. in the house. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I'll need to buy the saw blades, but I have everything else. I was concerned cutting the holes too big or not the right size. This will make it easy.
Driline wrote: doctorwayne wrote: I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.Wayne I see there is a Dr. in the house. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I'll need to buy the saw blades, but I have everything else. I was concerned cutting the holes too big or not the right size. This will make it easy.
The use of a nibbler works well along with doctorwayne's suggestions. The wall mods are best done with the wall sections able to lie on the flat. You may not need to install the windows, before assembling the structure, but it really helps dry fitting all the frames before assy.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org