Given that that the Sea of Tranquility is 4 degrees too far south on the lunar model, I would be embarrassed to post this photo.
:)
Heres a pic of my almost complete "Trailer Park" & Camp grounds. I just added a Pepsi machine for those who need a little "pick me up" in the caffeine department. I don't yet have a complete backdrop so a wide shot is out of the question for now. One thing I don't like is the "shiny" base my little people are standing on. For now I want to move them around so I'm not ready to glue them Permanently.
I love that modern VW camper.
Wayzata Modeler wrote: Given that that the Sea of Tranquility is 4 degrees too far south on the lunar model, I would be embarrassed to post this photo. :)
Wouldn't that depend on your latitude when viewing the moon?
Here's a project I've had on and off the burner for quite awhile. Hopefully I'll find time to do the decals soon.
The prototype is BN #442, a SW1000B.
The model so far, starting with an Athearn SW1000 with some body work.
The handrails will be bent by hand using .015 wire and Smokey Valley stanchions. They're done, just not attached because of painting and decaling.
Some more pics.
http://archive.trainpix.com/BN/EMDRBLD/SW10B/442B.HTM
Heres a pic of my BN Atlas GP 40-2 coming around the bend of my campground. Gotta love the Burlington Northern.
jktrains,
Very nice work on the SW1000 so far...I'll be watching for pictures of the completed project. It's nice to find an intellectually stimulating thread in this forum.....
Don Z.
Research; it's not just for geeks.
Nice work so far guys.
I'm a steam kitbasher in N scale. Here are my three kitbashed steam engines simmering quietly together at LEW Interlocking (click to enlarge):
From left to right:
H10sb 2-8-0 #8756. It's a Bachmann Spectrum chassis with a chopped-down Minitrix K4 boiler and a B6sb cab. The tender is also modified. I did an article for the NTrak Steam Information Book (addendum) on it. TCS M1 DCC.
L1s 2-8-2 #762. Kato Mike with the GHQ pewter and brass conversion kit for the boiler, cab, and tender. Still DC.
M1 4-8-2 #6811. You guys saw me build this step by step. Extended Spectrum 4-8-2 frame, spliced K4 boilers/fireboxes with new running boards and scratchbuilt pilot, "facelift," and K4 KW trailing truck. 210F75 tender on extended CC J3a tender frame, spliced K4 tender shells, GMM Trainphone antenna, scratchbuilt doghouse and induction coils. Digitrax DCC.
All 3 locos have Alkem Scale Models number plates.
Each represents a compromise in things such as valve gear or driver diameter. But the overall length, height, wheelbase, etc. is pretty close (within 1 N scale foot) for these engines.
Modeling the Rio Grande Southern First District circa 1938-1946 in HOn3.
Dave,
Welcome to the new forum! Now remember to watch your choice of words!
jktrains
For anyone interested in modeling the Pennsylvania, an invaluable resource is the free online e-magazine of the PRR Technical & Historical Society, The Keystone Modeler:
http://www.prrths.com/Keystone%20Modeler/Keystone_Modeler.htm
I've been fortunate enough to have some of my locomotives and a hopper car appear in various TKM issues.
Scanning these e-mags quickly dispells any notion that "modeling the Pennsy" is little more than simply slapping a keystone on a random car. These guys have serious talent and take modeling to a level that leaves me in awe!
Another source of PRR prototype modeling is the PRRPro Yahoo modeling group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PRRPro/
We all work on a single project voted by the group. Coming up next is the H-class consolidation (I've already finished mine!). The last complete project was the PRR X31/X31a class boxcar.
Here's my X31a in N scale (resin and brass kit):
Dave Vollmer wrote:For anyone interested in modeling the Pennsylvania, an invaluable resource is the free online e-magazine of the PRR Technical & Historical Society, The Keystone Modeler:http://www.prrths.com/Keystone%20Modeler/Keystone_Modeler.htmI've been fortunate enough to have some of my locomotives and a hopper car appear in various TKM issues.Scanning these e-mags quickly dispells any notion that "modeling the Pennsy" is little more than simply slapping a keystone on a random car. These guys have serious talent and take modeling to a level that leaves me in awe!Another source of PRR prototype modeling is the PRRPro Yahoo modeling group:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PRRPro/We all work on a single project voted by the group. Coming up next is the H-class consolidation (I've already finished mine!). The last complete project was the PRR X31/X31a class boxcar.Here's my X31a in N scale (resin and brass kit):
Thanks for the information and links about the Pennsy.
Ed
loathar wrote:Nice pics all! Driline- If I may make a suggestion? Your scenes look excellent, but you may want to consider trimming those field grass tufts down a little bit. Yours appear to be about 7-8' tall. I've always observed grass like that is generally only knee or waist high.Just an observation...
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
'...when you post something here you understand that it may be critiqued and commented on...Subjects can be either about modeling or about photographic technique.'
Regarding the two SW model photos -- since a Digital Rebel was used, can one assume that you have access to and experience with photo editing software? If so, the shots could be greatly improved, for the purpose of displaying the model's details, by the following:
1. Place the model on light gray poster board. The histograms for the two shots are bimodal, the first one to the extent that there is little midrange. Your matrix metering is overwhelmed by the white background, which reduces or eliminates visibility of any details below and including the black walkway.
2. To overcome the above problem displayed in these shots, reduce the contrast and increase the brightness in your editing software. In PS (Elements or CS), -5 or so and +10 or so, respectively, make details in black and shadowed areas visible. Yes, this decreases the 'drama' often associated with a contrasty pic, but is your primary purpose to evoke an emotional response or to convey modelling information? The contrast and brightness adjustments also reduce some of the tint on the white background.
3. Crop out useless or distracting information. The overhead shot should be trimmed on the top and sides, if for no other reason than to reduce wasted bandwidth. The side shot suffers greatly from brightly colored clutter at the top.
4. Under Levels, use the white point dropper on the background to eliminate the remaining pink/tan tint. This will also remove most of the offending tint from the model.
5. Apply an Unsharp Mask filter. Your pics are in focus but still soft; applying the filter on the overhead shot (try something around 350-0.7-10) brings out edge details along, for example, the roof panels and walkway pattern without imparting sharpening artifacts. A similar adjustment also brings out highlights to better define the door vents, handles, and hinges, for example, on the side shot.
I don't have any photos, but I do have a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mN0FCGm8QIQ
Here's the things I can find wrong with it. (I know that isn't the purpase of this thread)
Train acceleration/decelleration are too fast. That BSRX rock train stopped at an emergancy brake application speed. (It doesn't run too smoothly, and it would look even worse if it hit a dead spot) and the trains are WAY too short!
Have at it!
Some odds & ends......
I'm using graphic line tape to mask off the street lines, so the first thing I did was hit it with a coat of primer, followed by some yellow on the road surface.
Once the yellow dried, I placed the mask for yellow line in the middle of the road. I used some scale cars to estimate the lane width. The wider lane allows for curbside parking.
Next I shot the road surface with alternating mists of grey, and flat black to get an aged asphalt look. The paint was still pretty wet when I shot this, hence the thick appearance and sheen. After the paint dried, I used some blue painters tape to mask off the road surface so I could paint the sidewalks and railings a concrete color.
I've got more work to do to finish the scene, including adding some weathering washes, some foliage, and maybe some climbing ivy, and a middle pier for the highway bridge. The road surface will also be weathered in, and the patch I made for re-using the bridge will have to be painted.
I plan to finish off the scene with working street lights, and a row of building facades against the backdrop. Then the fun stuff like parking meters, strolling pedestrians etc. This scene will represent the city of Hagerstown, so I want it be a busy scene, even though it's relatively small.
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
wm3798 wrote:I've been putting off this project for over a year.The concrete retaining wall and bridge have been showing up more frequently in my pictures, and I decided it was finally time to do something about it. Lee
The concrete railings are from Rix. Fortunately he sells them separately. His price for the bridge kits is a little rich for my blood. I can accomplish the same thing with a couple bucks worth of styrene and a spray can...
tomkat-13 wrote: Some odds & ends......
Tomkat-13,
I've seen your pictures over the past number of months and while they are well composed and shot, they have always struck me as being "off" for some reason I can't ever put my fingers on. I don't know if its the angle of view being really narrow from a zoom lens, also they always seem a little too red, or maybe its all the red buildings and cars throwing it off, they just don't seem to have that bright, daylight look. What kind of lights and settings do you use for your pics?
One other comment has to do with your weathering. It sometimes seems a bit over done. Do you primarily use washes or powders. On the last pic the weathering should go into the corners by the door tracks while the NP car seems overdone. The trucks should be a deeper rust color versus the yellowish color they look in the pic. What was the original color of the NP car. It looks like it may have been yellow, but I'm not familiar with yellow prototype cars?
I call this my "lipstick-on-a-pig" project.
A few months ago, somebody on another forum posted a photo of a worn-out looking Family Lines 4-bay ACF Centerflow. That thing kinda grew on me, so I used Photoshop to 'paint' and print some of my own decals on Testors film and painted over an old bluebox centerflow that was originally painted and lettered for Dow Chemical. This is my first attempt at 'serious' weathering, i.e. replicating the rust and grunge patterns on a prototype freightcar, and I know still have a heluva long way to go. That is the reason I used a cheap bluebox instead of a higher-priced counterpart, to minimize risk.
I used Bragdon powders; the rust splotches looked OK when I first applied them, but when I sprayed on a protective layer of dullcoat, they changed from an oxide reddish tint to dark brown. Not only that, but I also forgot to apply 'dirt' to some of the semi-hidden inside surfaces, and naturally these are plainly visible in the photograph --- oh well! I'd say the model is about 80% done, it still needs a light gray wash to fade the logos and lettering. However, I don't want to replicate all the random paint patches and splashes that appear in the proto photo. Tear into it!
-Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
One other comment has to do with your weathering. It sometimes seems a bit over done. Do you primarily use washes or powders. India ink wash, chalks, & dry brushing (no dull-coat)On the last pic the weathering should go into the corners by the door tracks while the NP car seems overdone. The trucks should be a deeper rust color versus the yellowish color they look in the pic. What was the original color of the NP car Boxcar red. It looks like it may have been yellow, but I'm not familiar with yellow prototype cars? Thanks for your input....I have started a new layout & it will have better lighting.
I need help and I figure this is the thread to get an honest opinion. I'm trying to do roll roofing and my results are leaving me kind of flat. I used masking tape painted with some asphalt color and some darker paint for tar lines on the seams. I like the texture, but I'm not overly happy with the total look. Any suggestions? (hopefully this fits in with this thread)
loathar wrote:I need help and I figure this is the thread to get an honest opinion. I'm trying to do roll roofing and my results are leaving me kind of flat. I used masking tape painted with some asphalt color and some darker paint for tar lines on the seams. I like the texture, but I'm not overly happy with the total look. Any suggestions? (hopefully this fits in with this thread)
Looks to me like you nailed it! Maybe some rooftop details, like a vent pipe and a smoke stack, and perhaps a roof hatch would help.
If it's a more modern era layout, an A/C unit up there would look good.
.
Loathar -
Thanx for the feedback. I do plan to fade the black lettering somehow, but I can't decide whether to do it by applying a micro-thin overspray of reefer gray, or a liquid wash. Probably "C - both of the above". I'll try lengthening a few of the rust streaks coming off the walkway supports as well.
About your rooftop: I concur with Lee, it looks like you're on the right path, but have just a little bit farther to go. What I was thinking is, the black looks a bit too 'clean' - sort of reminds me of an asphalt road surface that has been recently re-paved. If you could work in a teensy bit of brown, with some reefer gray overspray to make it look sun-bleached, that would help alot. Also, since that's a flat roof, rain water will tend to 'puddle' in some areas. Perhaps you could drip some dirt-colored water in a few spots and just let it sit there and dry; that will help break the monotony.
Jeff (Mr.K) - it's great to know I'm in good company with using cheap rolling stock! I do have a question for you though: Do you use Proto:87 wheels? I'd like to, but I doubt my trackwork would handle them.
Loathar,
The roof looks good. A few things to think about. What is the average width of the rolled roofing material? Would that be correct? 16', 20' ? I don't know? To go along with what CSX was saying, on a flat roof there are usually low spots in which water puddles, maybe you could add a pit of high gloss in a spot to simulate this? Perhaps even some Future floor polish would work since it is a high gloss acrylic.
loathar wrote: I need help and I figure this is the thread to get an honest opinion. I'm trying to do roll roofing and my results are leaving me kind of flat. I used masking tape painted with some asphalt color and some darker paint for tar lines on the seams. I like the texture, but I'm not overly happy with the total look. Any suggestions? (hopefully this fits in with this thread)
Loathar, a few suggestions. Although you comment that you like the look (texture) of your current roofing, I would hasten to point out that in HO scale tarpaper roofing would not actually show visible texture. Rather, it would have a surface about as even-looking as ordinary typing paper (which I often use to represent rolled roofing, incidentally).
Rolled roofing generally comes in widths of around 30" but I suspect that on your model it is nearer twice that width. You should also indicate evidence of where one roll ends and another starts and overlaps at several points along the job. Perhaps you might consider some indications of roof patching to add some additional detail/interest. You need some vent stacks on the roof as well if the building has any interior pumbing, as well as an access point of some sort.
Finally, try some light applications of several shades of grey and black chalks to improve the general "character" and aged appearance of the roof.
Unfortunately, I don't have any "roof shots" from the large urban portion of my layout at the moment to serve as examples of exactly what I'm talking about above...perhaps I can get some later this morning. I do very much like the color you've applied to your rolled roofing and that of the tar sealing lines.
CNJ831
jktrains wrote: Loathar,The roof looks good. A few things to think about. What is the average width of the rolled roofing material? Would that be correct? 16', 20' ? I don't know? To go along with what CSX was saying, on a flat roof there are usually low spots in which water puddles, maybe you could add a pit of high gloss in a spot to simulate this? Perhaps even some Future floor polish would work since it is a high gloss acrylic.
Traditional rolled roofing (which most are modeling) comes in 36". It is usually lapped 3-4" minimum. Seams would vary especially at the last 2 coarses if that cap sheet wasn't cut for width. Almost every other coarse would be pieced unless the building was exactly 25,50 or 100 ft long (the roll length), thus producing mid seams as not to waste the product.
I must add that in the era we tend to model 40-50s most urban flat roofs were tar and gravel. These roofs had an enormous life span. I have seen some that are 60+ years old and still doing their job. Rolled roofing would be more common on out buildings, small warehouses etc or if the reroof was done on the cheap. The life of a rolled roof (older asphalt was about 25-30 years), newer products and fiberglas sometimes barely last 10-15 years. Rubber so far has outperformed them all and cost the most $$$.
Newer commercial (glass capped, since about the mid 70s) still is generally 3', however I have seen wider material although not as common.
Rubber roofing is commonly 10 ft wide and 20 ft available for larger commercial installations.
Hope this info helps.
Other newer rolled roofing, double coverage is 36" wide but it is lapped at about 20-22". Most of this is fiberglas based similar to the glass cap.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Hi guys! First time, be gentle! More for the models as I'm still learning the digital camera stuff! Have at it!
I need to do a little more detailing, and the backdrop needs work!
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
Here's a weathered PRR box car:
take it easy on me!
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot lose." - Jim Elliot Visit my blog! http://becomingawarriorpoet.blogspot.com
Ozark,
Since this is a "feedback" forum, I'll go ahead and offer mine, which you may take or leave:
Positives: I love the chalk markings to the left of the door; typical of the steam and early diesel era as cars were routed at hump yards. Also, the rust on the trucks looks good.
Could use more work: The lighter rust colors on the car look a bit thick and haphazard as well as too light in color. My suggestion is, if possible, to use a bit of brush cleaner to try to remove a bit of it (be very careful not to remove the factory paint beneath!). Successive thinned washes of a darker rust color (I like Railroad Tie Brown, per Jim Six) will help because the wash will settle along the rivet lines and door track just like real water, and will "rust" accordingly. Also the vertical rust streaks to the right of the door would probably look better if they were more horizontal (scrapes from opening/closing the door).
There are lots of photos around of PRR Merchandise Service cars... I have PRR Color Guide to Freight and Passenger Equipment Vols. 2 & 3. I weathered my Merchandise Service X29 using a photo in one of those books.
One reason so many of the hardcore weather-ers (is that a word?) use very specific photos of very specific cars as a guide is because weathering is so easy to over- or underdo.
Anyway, looks like you're on your way. My overall suggestion is to thin out your washes and apply in layers rather than all at once.
Good luck!!! Oh, and great choice of car. Of all of the Pennsy's freight car schemes, MS (Merchandise Service) is myfavorite.
saronaterry wrote: Hi guys! First time, be gentle! More for the models as I'm still learning the digital camera stuff! Have at it!I need to do a little more detailing, and the backdrop needs work!
I really like that scene. The road weathering is top notch. Post away!
loathar.
That is a good looking building. The only problem that I see is that the tarpaper strips are to wide and are running in the wrong direction.
Our previous home was a 100+ year old semi-detached house in downtown Toronto, Canada. It had a peaked asphalt shingled roof over the front 25% of the house running parrallel to the street and the rear 75% of the roof was flat and it was about 4" to 5" higher down the centre of the flat part so that water ran to both edges of the roof to the eaves.
When we had to have the roof re-done after about 40+ years from the previous roofing, they stripped off the old roofing to the wood and used 40" wide roll roofing that was overlapped every 10" to give 4 layers of paper and they ran it the length of the roof, not width-wise. When they came to the end of a roll, they just overlapped and sealed the end and carried on with a fresh roll. After all four layers were on, they then mopped on HOT TAR that was quite thick and then spread what was called PEA GRAVEL over it about 1/2" thick and it mostly settled down into the tar but left a good layer of loose gravel on top. As the name suggests, the gravel was about 1/4" in diameter like a large pea and for the most part, quite smooth.
We also had an old wooden garage off the back laneway that had a tar-papered slopeing roof from front to back. It was only overlapped twice but was a thicker covering and the edges were sealed with tar on each layer. There was no tar OR gravel put on the roof and the paper was rolled on lengthwise also and joined at the end of the rolls and sealed.
I saw a number of similar roofs in the neighbourhood done the same way.
I hope that this information is of use to anyone contemplating doing a flat roof.
No offence is intended in any way and none will be taken with anyones differing opinions or ideas. This is just my
from my own experience.
Good modelling to all.
Blue Flamer.
Thanks for the tips all! I see I screwed up on the width. I tried to do 6' rolls but now see they only sell 3'. I put a couple more coats of grey on and it took some of the texture out and toned down the tar lines. Looks better now. I've got details to add and weathering to do, I just wanted to get the base color right first.
Blue Flamer-Wrong direction? Really? I just figured it would go with the down slope of the roof like shingles do. Learn something new every day.
just finished this today. camera is old and i need practice. But this is my first attempt at a scene so i thought i would post. It is on a 12 in wide shelf by 3-4 in deep if that.
alco's forever!!!!! Majoring in HO scale Minorig in O scale:)
loathar wrote: Thanks for the tips all! I see I screwed up on the width. I tried to do 6' rolls but now see they only sell 3'. I put a couple more coats of grey on and it took some of the texture out and toned down the tar lines. Looks better now. I've got details to add and weathering to do, I just wanted to get the base color right first.Blue Flamer-Wrong direction? Really? I just figured it would go with the down slope of the roof like shingles do. Learn something new every day.
Loather, you got the roofing direction right, just have the sections too wide.
Blue flamer, at first I thought the roofing was the wrong direction until I noticed the pitch to the rear. You can see the slight pitch on the mansard in the pic.
loathar wrote: Blue Flamer-Wrong direction? Really? I just figured it would go with the down slope of the roof like shingles do. Learn something new every day.
You are correct in that assumption. If you visualize a shingled roof, rainwater runs down the roof from the higher elevation and drops off the overlapping shingle to the lower shingle. That was basically the way that they did the flat roof. They started at the eaves (the lowest part of the roof) along the side of the house and worked up to the 4" to 5" high peak down the centre of the two houses and overlapped the previous row of tarpaper as they went. The only difference between this roof and the shingled roof is that due to it being basically flat, they slopped hot tar all over it and covered it with the Pea Gravel for protection.
I hope that I have helped a little and not added to your confusion. I may have been born in England, but that was 68 years ago and my grasp of the language sometimes eludes me in my senior years. But, I still keep trying.
All the best.
bogp40 wrote: loathar wrote: Thanks for the tips all! I see I screwed up on the width. I tried to do 6' rolls but now see they only sell 3'. I put a couple more coats of grey on and it took some of the texture out and toned down the tar lines. Looks better now. I've got details to add and weathering to do, I just wanted to get the base color right first.Blue Flamer-Wrong direction? Really? I just figured it would go with the down slope of the roof like shingles do. Learn something new every day.Loather, you got the roofing direction right, just have the sections too wide.Blue flamer, at first I thought the roofing was the wrong direction until I noticed the pitch to the rear. You can see the slight pitch on the mansard in the pic.
loathar & bogp40
If this is the case, please accept my apologies. These old eyes use Tri-Focals to see with and to be honest, even after you told me this, I still can't see the pitch on the roof.
It's a good thing that I only use these glasses to drive and to see with and not for anything real important.
Here's a scene I'm rather fond of:
Enjoy
Mike,
In the second picture the foliage looks a little close to the track and might cause a clearance problem. Also (or all so) turn off the flash. It causes that washed out effect in the pic. Keep practicing, its the only way to get better. As someone suggested, take notes, bracket your exposures and experiment some. The nice thing about digital photography is that you can see the results right away and know what works or doesn't work and the is no wasted film. If the picture lloks bad, delete it and learn from it.
OzarkBelt wrote:Here's a scene I'm rather fond of:Enjoy
I like the color scheme and weathering on the station, although I hope the painters didn't get paid for those dormers... The one on the left looks great, but you need to finish touching up the other two. Also, the green car looks "plastic" compared to the other two vehicles...
And Darth Vader usually raises his right hand before he kills you with a thought, not the left
PASMITH wrote:Peter Smith, Memphis
Two Words. Museum Quality. Nuf said
wm3798 wrote: OzarkBelt wrote: Here's a scene I'm rather fond of:Enjoy I like the color scheme and weathering on the station, although I hope the painters didn't get paid for those dormers... The one on the left looks great, but you need to finish touching up the other two. Also, the green car looks "plastic" compared to the other two vehicles...And Darth Vader usually raises his right hand before he kills you with a thought, not the leftLee
OzarkBelt wrote: Here's a scene I'm rather fond of:Enjoy
Same exact things I was gonna say. Maybe a bit more white paint around the door jams. They look a little too bare.(is that Darth or a cigar store Indian?)
I wouldn't have the nerve to begin to critique THAT!!
jktrains wrote: Mike,In the second picture the foliage looks a little close to the track and might cause a clearance problem. Also (or all so) turn off the flash. It causes that washed out effect in the pic. Keep practicing, its the only way to get better. As someone suggested, take notes, bracket your exposures and experiment some. The nice thing about digital photography is that you can see the results right away and know what works or doesn't work and the is no wasted film. If the picture lloks bad, delete it and learn from it.jktrains
I need some trees, yet:
Terry
Not meaing to pile on, but a few things stand out.
Loathar-> 1st, thank you and the others for posting your work. I am learning much from reading people's techniques and suggestions. Your roof looked pretty good to me, but I don't think I have ever seen an actual roof like that, so I am not sure what it should look like. I know they exist. I am going to start looking for prototype roof photos. What color(s) did you use? Others have covered the paper width issues and the need for vent pipes and a roof hatch, so the only other thing I could add would be soot on the chimmney. Keep up the good work.
Maurice
Ozark - here's a tip on improving that green car: First paint all the wheels in a flat version of grimy black or dark gray, then paint flat aluminum 'hubcaps' in the centers. Perhaps some silver where the headlights should be...
loathar wrote:... Need to make the rust a bit more random. The rust streaks coming off the roof supports all look the same. The black lettering needs to be more faded looking maybe with some black/grey streaks washing down below the letters. ...
I did (or at least tried) 2 of your 3 suggestions: Making the roof rust streaks seem more random, and fading the black lettering and logo. Haven't quite got around to doing the white streaks yet. But here is what she looks like now:
Prototype: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/pictures%5C28762%5CCSXT_201582.JPG
CSX_road_slug -Yeah. That's better. I'd still fade the logos A LOT more. I just saw a whole string of hoppers like that in a yard and you could hardly read the lettering. The reporting marks looked like they had been redone, but the logos were almost non existent. This is a crappy shot, but it's all I could get. They did all have logos on them. That's how faded they were. You can barely see the reporting marks in this pic.
Edit-Sorry! I just saw your prototype pic.I didn't realize that's what you were going for. Nailed it!
CSX_road_slug,
Nicely done on the weathering. The rusting along the bottom of the car came out good. One last suggestion, give a nice thin coat of dullcoat to takedown the glare some and give a good flat finish like the prototype pic.
loathar wrote: wm3798 wrote: OzarkBelt wrote: Here's a scene I'm rather fond of:Enjoy I like the color scheme and weathering on the station, although I hope the painters didn't get paid for those dormers... The one on the left looks great, but you need to finish touching up the other two. Also, the green car looks "plastic" compared to the other two vehicles...And Darth Vader usually raises his right hand before he kills you with a thought, not the leftLee Same exact things I was gonna say. Maybe a bit more white paint around the door jams. They look a little too bare.(is that Darth or a cigar store Indian?)
Thanks for your critique. I better get working. You have to admit, Darth Vader in HO is pretty cool.
MY 1,000th POST! This MAKES ME A SUPER Model Railroad Genius with ALL THE ANSWERS!
I now submit my PERFECT FLAWLESS LAYOUT FOR ALL YOU LITTLE PEOPLE OUT THERE STRIVING TO BE PERFECT LIKE ME BUT ALAS WILL NEVER ATTAIN MY SUPERIORITY.
Selector removed my previous 999 post so heres my 1,000
Oh, the agony......the humiliation......
Driline wrote: MY 1,000th POST! This MAKES ME A SUPER Model Railroad Genius with ALL THE ANSWERS! I now submit my PERFECT FLAWLESS LAYOUT FOR ALL YOU LITTLE PEOPLE OUT THERE STRIVING TO BE PERFECT LIKE ME BUT ALAS WILL NEVER ATTAIN MY SUPERIORITY.
Nice use of color.
I have figured out what is wrong with my brain! On the left side nothing works right, and on the right side there is nothing left!
This bridge needs something.....I'm not sure what. I've sprayed rust on the gussets, but haven't used chalk yet.
Don't spray on the rust. It looks more like camouflage than rust. Try multiple layers of dark brown washes, then dry brush on some lighter rust highlights... The light rust would also likely be more even over the structure, with heavier applications at the bottom and in cravasses where water would likely lay.
Behold.
Driline-The black looks too monotone. Needs some fading and variation. Try swapping the rust in the airbrush for some light grey or white and repeating what you did with the rust color. Could also use some rust and grime streaks dripping down.
Edit-Try a little redder rust color like in Lee's pic. Iron usually doesn't produce a tan colored rust.
Driline,
I agree with the others, the bridge something more than airbrushing and the rust color is too light. That color might be better suited for newly formed rust. You want the darker rust like in WM3798's picture.
A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. The applications of the reactant you apply the darker it will get. I'd also try drybrushing the rivets on the gusset plates with like a burnt sienna color. This should get the rivets to 'pop' and not be lost is a flat black paint job. I've got a single track truss built to do the same thing to. Maybe I should get started on it and we can compare results? Also, you might consider repainting it flat black again so you're back to a clean slate.
jktrains wrote: Driline, A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. jktrains
A few suggestions: Try the Sophisticated Finishes rust product. Its been discussed earlier, or PM me for more info. I think neutrine used it on the inside of his gondolas. He thinned a little to avoid having it be too thick. This will give you both the color and the texture. I used it on the front access door on the Soo loco. jktrains
JK, The bridge project was merely a ploy for you to divulge your "rust" secrets. I'm so clever I can't stand myself Then again neither can most other people.
Thanks...I will be looking for that stuff at Hobby Lobby. Do you also use acrylics as a base before you apply the "rust" mixture?
loathar wrote:Driline-Hob Lob doesn't carry it. (mine doesn't) Michaels and JoAnnes are supposed to.
Dang it. You're right. I was just there. No joy.
When I first built the fly-over bridge in front of Andy's closet door, I put the west end of the run-around right there, figuring I'd only need it to switch a couple of cars to the two industries there. I quickly realized that the Penn Central turn would typically need more room, and also a longer siding would help facilitate thru trains while the local was switching, thereby opening up better traffic flow. So Friday night I soaked the ballast, and made with the putty knife.
Fortunately, the local Hobby Town now carries C-55 track (albeit at list price! :P) so I was able to also replace the turnout, which had been repaired after a track cleaning incident, and never quite worked properly... So now I have a siding that can easily stow a 10 car local. Also, westbound trains can now move up off the drawbridge across the aisle before holding for any eastbounds headed for staging.
I also finished up two decoder installations for Bobcat...Here they are at the fuel rack, fresh from the shops.We'll be pressing these into service next weekend before shipping them back to their home road... ;D
I'm modelling the mid-to late-'30s, so all of my bridges are fairly well maintained. However, rust will tend to occur and collect where water cannot easily drain away. I've found that painting the bridge with the rust colour first works well, paying particular attention to all the nooks and crannies and inside corners. When you paint the bridge colour over this, don't be so fastidious trying to get full coverage - this will leave those hard-to-get-at areas already rusted. You can then add more severe rust effects where you want them. Also, note in the prototype photo, above, that the rivets are not an area that rusts as readily as the metal through which they've been installed - this is because paint adheres so well to a convex surface like the head of a rivet. Of course, these too will rust over time.
Wayne
Driline wrote:wm3798. I like the look of your layout. Is it a shelf layout and what are the dimensions?
Thank you.
Parts of it are on a shelf, and the main part is an L-girder rig about 3' x 12' with a 4x3 L. You can read all about it at my website (link below my sig)
My first attempt ever at Ballasting.
So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.
Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.
I went with the CNW & Santa Fe "Mauve" MEDIUM color and size from AZ Rock and Mineral Company. It actually looks great. I'm glad I went with the medium size. It does more closely resemble the real stone in size. The color is absolutely perfect.
I bought the stuff in Des Moines at Hobby Haven. (3 hours away from me).
Is 6 hours round trip crazy to drive for 10 bucks worth of ballast?
secondhandmodeler wrote: Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.What did you go with for ballast color and size? Part of my next layout is C&NW and requires the same color ballast I believe.
You should note however that the CNW Mauve ballast is located on the track my engine is sitting on. The side yard to the right is a "fine" ballast mix that includes "pink lady" as the main color.
rs2mike wrote: Driline wrote: My first attempt ever at Ballasting. So far so good.... I intend to finally complete a layout. That's why I started with an 11X7 room with an added staging yard 7" X 8' after we moved 5 years ago. I'm 2 years into the build and so far have about 1/2 the scenery complete.drillline the ballast looks great. My question is on your weeds in the right trackage. Do you not have any worries about catching something like a coupler on these? Or do they not give you any problems.
No worries mate. The coupler just moves through those weeds with no problem.
sweet I am going to try that with mine too. Looks really good mate.
Driline wrote:Gee, you'd think we were Australians with all this "mate" stuff. Tie me Kangaroo down.
ROFL! That's what I thought, till I saw he was from Ohio!
Driline wrote: I went with the CNW & Santa Fe "Mauve" MEDIUM color and size from AZ Rock and Mineral Company. It actually looks great. I'm glad I went with the medium size. It does more closely resemble the real stone in size. The color is absolutely perfect.I bought the stuff in Des Moines at Hobby Haven. (3 hours away from me). Is 6 hours round trip crazy to drive for 10 bucks worth of ballast?
Ok here's my latest scratchbuild project and I have a question. What is the best way to cut out holes in "pikestuff" styrene so that I can insert my windows and doors? Plain old xacto knife?
This is the Current 'ICE" formerly Davenport & Rock Island Bettendorf Yard office. I am going to build a close replica to stand on my layout as the center piece of the yard.
And here is what I've completed so far....(walls are not glued yet, need to cut out window and door openings first). The shingle material is also great looking stuff.
I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.
I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.
doctorwayne wrote: I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.Wayne
I see there is a Dr. in the house. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I'll need to buy the saw blades, but I have everything else. I was concerned cutting the holes too big or not the right size. This will make it easy.
Driline wrote: doctorwayne wrote: I've found that the easiest way to make openings in this type of plastic is to drill a hole near the edge of where you want the opening, then use a saw blade in your X-Acto to cut around the inside of the rough opening. Trim to the line with a #11 blade and/or a file. I bought a "corner punch" (used for mortising hinges and such) but found that trying to punch out the window openings resulted in a lot of cracked and shattered sheet plastic. It would probably work for making true corners after the bulk of the material within the opening has been removed.I glued the shattered plastic (Walthers brick sheet) back together, and used stuff from the scrap box to build the office for Creechan Fine Fuels, a simple background structure. Window openings were cut using the method described.Wayne I see there is a Dr. in the house. Yes, that sounds like a good idea. I'll need to buy the saw blades, but I have everything else. I was concerned cutting the holes too big or not the right size. This will make it easy.
The use of a nibbler works well along with doctorwayne's suggestions. The wall mods are best done with the wall sections able to lie on the flat. You may not need to install the windows, before assembling the structure, but it really helps dry fitting all the frames before assy.
Here's another favorite:
loathar wrote: PASMITH wrote:Peter Smith, MemphisI wouldn't have the nerve to begin to critique THAT!!
What could you critique? I am not in the same league as 98% of you learned Gentlemen. When it comes to art like that, I am not even on the same planet. In my humble opinion, the Renaisance Art Masters would be in awe over detail like that.
OzarkBelt wrote: Here's another favorite:
OzarkBelt, a few comments.
There is more to weathering than taking some brown paint and a paint brush and slopping some on here and there. Go online and find some prototype pictures of the piece of equipment you're working on and use them to guide what you do. The pic doesn't have to be the exact loco or car your working on, but the closer it is the better.
You're missing the headlight lens on the loco. The model should have come with one, if its lost use a MV lens as a replacement.
Scenery wise, fall foliage is probably one of the toughest things to pull off correctly. IMO snow is the other. Again, there's more to doing fall foliage than taking some red, or yellow or orange, WS clump foliage and gluing it onto a tree armature. While it is now Spring, think back to Fall. Most trees don't turn single color throughout the whole tree. Instead they're a mix of colors - part green, part yellow, part red etc. Consider mixing the colors or even try airbrushing some of the color on so that you avoid that monotone look. Another excellent product to try are the Noch leaves. They come in many different shades and look excellent.
jktrains wrote: OzarkBelt wrote: Here's another favorite:OzarkBelt, a few comments.There is more to weathering than taking some brown paint and a paint brush and slopping some on here and there. Go online and find some prototype pictures of the piece of equipment you're working on and use them to guide what you do. The pic doesn't have to be the exact loco or car your working on, but the closer it is the better.You're missing the headlight lens on the loco. The model should have come with one, if its lost use a MV lens as a replacement.Scenery wise, fall foliage is probably one of the toughest things to pull off correctly. IMO snow is the other. Again, there's more to doing fall foliage than taking some red, or yellow or orange, WS clump foliage and gluing it onto a tree armature. While it is now Spring, think back to Fall. Most trees don't turn single color throughout the whole tree. Instead they're a mix of colors - part green, part yellow, part red etc. Consider mixing the colors or even try airbrushing some of the color on so that you avoid that monotone look. Another excellent product to try are the Noch leaves. They come in many different shades and look excellent.
Man, got more work to do! The loco did NOT come w/ a lense (I did buy it new), I'll see if i got one in the scrap box!
OzarkBelt wrote: jktrains wrote: OzarkBelt wrote: Here's another favorite:OzarkBelt, a few comments.There is more to weathering than taking some brown paint and a paint brush and slopping some on here and there. Go online and find some prototype pictures of the piece of equipment you're working on and use them to guide what you do. The pic doesn't have to be the exact loco or car your working on, but the closer it is the better.You're missing the headlight lens on the loco. The model should have come with one, if its lost use a MV lens as a replacement.Scenery wise, fall foliage is probably one of the toughest things to pull off correctly. IMO snow is the other. Again, there's more to doing fall foliage than taking some red, or yellow or orange, WS clump foliage and gluing it onto a tree armature. While it is now Spring, think back to Fall. Most trees don't turn single color throughout the whole tree. Instead they're a mix of colors - part green, part yellow, part red etc. Consider mixing the colors or even try airbrushing some of the color on so that you avoid that monotone look. Another excellent product to try are the Noch leaves. They come in many different shades and look excellent.Man, got more work to do! The loco did NOT come w/ a lense (I did buy it new), I'll see if i got one in the scrap box!
ON a positive note, I'd say you got the "mudd" color just right! It looks to me like a bunch of teenagers grabbed some mud balls and whipped them pretty good at your passing train. Not that I'd ever done anything like that
My original photos were deleted because of a couple of curse words in the graffiti. So I had to edit them a little bit in order to repost them so the precious kids of the world today do not see it. Anyway you can beat these pictures if youd like. I weathered these this week and also hand painted my graffiti on the cars yesterday. They look pretty good to me but I may be wrong? The graffiti on the boxcars on the bottom look a little bit better in the pics because they were dullcoted at that time. After the pictures were taken I did the top cars too and that took the shine away
Coleman wrote: My original photos were deleted because of a couple of curse words in the graffiti. So I had to edit them a little bit in order to repost them so the precious kids of the world today do not see it. Anyway you can beat these pictures if youd like. I weathered these this week and also hand painted my graffiti on the cars yesterday. They look pretty good to me but I may be wrong? The graffiti on the boxcars on the bottom look a little bit better in the pics because they were dullcoted at that time. After the pictures were taken I did the top cars too and that took the shine away
Coleman, did you know that Walthers sells graffiti decal sets? They look very cool like the real thing. I don't know if any of the pro's around here have used them like aggro or neutrino, but I thought you might like to know.
The classic weather pattern for a carbody unit is the "bow wave". Starting at the lead truck cutout in the skirt, there is a spray pattern that comes up 3 or 4 feet in a arc and then fades out down the side of the unit.
Mask the windows when you weather. They get cleaned even if the rest of the unit doesn't. If you absolutely MUST muddy the windows mask a windshield wiper arc on the front windows.
After you finish weathering give a black wash to the grills
Try buying some weathering powders. Unless you are modeling a unit that was involved in a bridge collapse and the unit rolled down an embankment and into a muddy river and has just been pulled out, your washes are waaaaaaaay too heavy. Maybe thinning them to half strength and mixing in alcohol will give you more control. Vary the color too. the color dirt you have used is typical of Oklahoma. I like to use UP Harbor Mist grey . It is dark enought to show up on light units, light enough to show up on dark units and has a warm cast to it. Another color is plain old black thinned way down. A little goes a long way. Vary the colors, don't use just one color all over the unit. Mud/dust colors on the lower half blending to oil/soot colors on the top half. Subtlety, subtlety. If you think you need just one more wash, STOP, you probably have enough or a little past enough.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Ok, I've finished my first scratchbuilt "styrene" structure. It is by no means museum quality. It is only meant to depict the original and bring an aura of believability
Here is the original picture of the Bettendorf Driline yard taken in 1995 by me.
Here is what I started with. About $25 in materials purchased from Walthers through my LHS. The walls are pikestuff, and the windows are tichy. The windows you see there are not the final ones I used. I scratchbuilt the addition and its windows as well.
And heres the final product.... The layout is NOT scenicked at all. I just threw some figures and barrels there to make it look presentable.
Alex
Guilford Guy wrote:
I like the graffitti. Is that a decal? I thought I saw in someother thread you said you purchased these?
Driline wrote: Guilford Guy wrote: I like the graffitti. Is that a decal? I thought I saw in someother thread you said you purchased these?
They are bar mills decals. Very nice, but break easily. Microscale makes some as well.
Hi everyone, I've been looking for a thread like this and I posted a lot of stuff in all the wrong places. Now that I know the name is Forum & Symposium, I'll start posting here.
I'm am a little confused though, why wouldn't this be in the ‘Layouts and layout building' forum and does anybody read the ‘Layouts and layout building'? I never see many people there. And finally, what is the difference between the ‘weekend photo fun' and this?
JohnnyB
SleeperN06 wrote: Hi everyone, I've been looking for a thread like this and I posted a lot of stuff in all the wrong places. Now that I know the name is Forum & Symposium, I'll start posting here. I'm am a little confused though, why wouldn't this be in the ‘Layouts and layout building' forum and does anybody read the ‘Layouts and layout building'? I never see many people there. And finally, what is the difference between the ‘weekend photo fun' and this?JohnnyB
This isn't in the layouts and layout building because it covers ALL aspects of train building, including engines, weathering, and model building.
This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better. We strive for quality, not quantity . The other thread went down in flames too many times with hurt feelings and unsolicited critiques. We are more a thick skinned bunch who can take a punch now and then and laugh at ourselves. So fire away......
Driline wrote: SleeperN06 wrote: Hi everyone, I've been looking for a thread like this and I posted a lot of stuff in all the wrong places. Now that I know the name is Forum & Symposium, I'll start posting here. I'm am a little confused though, why wouldn't this be in the ‘Layouts and layout building' forum and does anybody read the ‘Layouts and layout building'? I never see many people there. And finally, what is the difference between the ‘weekend photo fun' and this?JohnnyBThis isn't in the layouts and layout building because it covers ALL aspects of train building, including engines, weathering, and model building.This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better. We strive for quality, not quantity . The other thread went down in flames too many times with hurt feelings and unsolicited critiques. We are more a thick skinned bunch who can take a punch now and then and laugh at ourselves. So fire away......
Thanks, then I do believe this what I'm looking for.
To add to the graffiti decal discussion. Here's a car I've recently started working on.
It still needs to be weathered etc., but the graffiti is a homemade decal of graffiti taken from an actual car.
Here's a link to the actual car.
http://www.railcarphotos.com/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=4409
Also, someone a little while ago posted a link to a website that allows you to create your own graffiti. I've been playing around with it and plan on making some of my own graffiti decals using it.
jktrains wrote: To add to the graffiti decal discussion. Here's a car I've recently started working on.It still needs to be weathered etc., but the graffiti is a homemade decal of graffiti taken from an actual car.Here's a link to the actual car.http://www.railcarphotos.com/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=4409Also, someone a little while ago posted a link to a website that allows you to create your own graffiti. I've been playing around with it and plan on making some of my own graffiti decals using it.
That is awesome!
I think just one car with graffiti on your layout really sparks conversation with visitors. Someday I'll have one too.
I see you changed your background to "black". Is that part of the "lights out for earth day" protest?
Driline wrote:This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better.
This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better.
Actually, I got bashed on WPF because of too many photos....
Those graffitti decals look great guys! JK; that car's going to turn out awesome once you weather it!
I don't know if I want to get bashed, but here goes....
I'm not sure if this is a photo bashing place, or a work bashing place, so I guess this could be either.
Bash away!
TrainManTy wrote: Driline wrote: This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better. Actually, I got bashed on WPF because of too many photos....Those graffitti decals look great guys! JK; that car's going to turn out awesome once you weather it!I don't know if I want to get bashed, but here goes....I'm not sure if this is a photo bashing place, or a work bashing place, so I guess this could be either.[img]http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/TrainManTy/P1020646.jpg?t=1206893914Bash away!
Driline wrote: This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better.
[img]http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/TrainManTy/P1020646.jpg?t=1206893914
Ty - Kinda takes the fun out of WPF huh.
Don't think of it as bashing, think of it as truth telling. It stuff is good - people will tell you so; it its bad - people should be able to, and will, tell you so. As think of it this way, if no one tells you when you do something wrong or poorly, you'll continue do it that same way (poorly), never improve, never try to improve. I compare it to American Idol. You see so many people in the auditions who sing so badly, but say how everybody has always told them how beautiful their voice. When they finally hear the truth they're completely devastated because no one in the past has had the guts to be honest with them because they (family, friends, etc.) did want to hurt their feelings. This thread is meant to help people improve their modeling, photography etc. by being a place where people can get some honest feedback and suggestions for help, not just a place where people can bash one another.
P.S. - I'll bash the picture later!
Well, it was like 26 photos in a row or something... It was a photo essay on chasing a train over the railroad, so that sort of explains it.
I don't mind people telling the truth about my photos, I know that my work isn't perfect (or comparable to a lot of people on these forums...) but I think it would be useful about how to improve my work.
Maybe I should put something in my sig saying something like "My work isn't perfect, and I'm on a limited budget. It's the best I can do." or something like that. Not that I've gotten bashed for my work, but it might help people understand better.
"Rust, whats not to love?"
TrainManTy wrote: Well, it was like 26 photos in a row or something... It was a photo essay on chasing a train over the railroad, so that sort of explains it. I don't mind people telling the truth about my photos, I know that my work isn't perfect (or comparable to a lot of people on these forums...) but I think it would be useful about how to improve my work. Maybe I should put something in my sig saying something like "My work isn't perfect, and I'm on a limited budget. It's the best I can do." or something like that. Not that I've gotten bashed for my work, but it might help people understand better.
Arn't you the one who posts his own train videos on u tube? I've seen them and I think you've done a great job on the video's. You are way ahead of me when I was your age, so we have to take that into account when we are trying to help you get better. The only thing that bothers me is that your chessie loco looks somewhat "toylike". I can't put my finger on it though. What is the brand? Maybe thats it.
I don't think you'll have problems now posting 20 photos on WPF. I've seen others do it just recently. We don't like that many photo's over here because we can get what you're trying to portray with only a few. I think 6 or 8 photo's seems standard.
Well I'll post somthing here.
This is a scene I did a while ago. WC 6505 Idles in the snow with 2500 and 6588 trailing.
6505 is a Proto 2000 SD45, 2500 is an Atlas Master series SD35, and 6588 is another Proto 45. I did the scene by getting a board and nailing down some paint sticks to it. Then attaching a piece of code 83 flex track. Then I took some flower and siffied it through a flower sifter.
Besides the fact that the models aren't weathered, there's a big container in the background, the fact that there IS no real background, and that I kinda messed up on the bay window on 6505. What do you guys think?
I know weathering would help but I don't know how to start.
My Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/JR7582 My Flickr Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wcfan/
The Chessie is an Atlas. I have noticed that most locos from that railroad (unless they're perfect or clost to that) look toylike. I hope to get it repainted by my friend, but I'm hesitant because I've had another loco that he's been working on since August.... Not bad though, since he's doing it for free as long as he gets to operate on my railroad.
I wish I could take the credit for the weathering on that gon, it was actually a gift from a user here, MondoTrains.
TrainManTy wrote: Driline wrote: This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better. Actually, I got bashed on WPF because of too many photos....Those graffitti decals look great guys! JK; that car's going to turn out awesome once you weather it!I don't know if I want to get bashed, but here goes....I'm not sure if this is a photo bashing place, or a work bashing place, so I guess this could be either.Bash away!
To me, the reason why that chessie loco looks so toylike is because every since I was a little kid (35yo now) I remember that a lot of "trainsets" for sale at any store had a Chessie engine in it and/or a UP GP7 or something like that. So when I see any Chessie locomotive they all look toylike to me. That is just me of course
Mass Man wrote: TrainManTy wrote: Driline wrote: This is different from weekend photo fun in that we allow others to critique our work to become better. Actually, I got bashed on WPF because of too many photos....Those graffitti decals look great guys! JK; that car's going to turn out awesome once you weather it!I don't know if I want to get bashed, but here goes....I'm not sure if this is a photo bashing place, or a work bashing place, so I guess this could be either.Bash away! To me, the reason why that chessie loco looks so toylike is because every since I was a little kid (35yo now) I remember that a lot of "trainsets" for sale at any store had a Chessie engine in it and/or a UP GP7 or something like that. So when I see any Chessie locomotive they all look toylike to me. That is just me of course
You know, that could be it. I never thought of it that way. I think you're right.
Ok I need some help on my first ever try at "rusting". Here's an HO trailer in progress. I can already tell you that I smeared too much rust on the back door. My question is:
And lastly you tell me what I used for the rust color and you get a free membership to the genius model railroad weathering club.
Driline wrote:Ok I need some help on my first ever try at "rusting". Here's an HO trailer in progress. I can already tell you that I smeared too much rust on the back door. My question is:shall I coat the body with a diluted wash of india ink to give it the grimy lookWhat color chalk should I use to "lighten" up the rust mistake on the door.Is it normal to use a very very light coating of black chalk here and there or should I go with a light grey.Do you guys usually light brush the edges with a dry white paint to give it that highlighted look?And lastly you tell me what I used for the rust color and you get a free membership to the genius model railroad weathering club.
I just re-found this thread and thought that it deserved a BIG BUMP. So here it is.
Driline. The rusting looks OK on the sides, but the back door appears to have horizontal rust streaks. I would think that the streaks would be more vertical from all the water streaming off the roof when the truck & trailer are travelling down the highway. There would possibly be a few downward angled streaks from front to back on the sides for the same reason. I spent many (41) years observing our own Company vehicles and the vehicles at the premises of the Commercial buildings that I frequented to service their natural gas equipment. After you give it a few VERY LIGHT washes of India Ink wash, I think that you will have a very commendable model. Well done.
Grampys Trains wrote:... So, here is my first post here. I did a quickie weathering job on this coal hopper. ... Does it need more or less weathering?
DJ, The hopper body looks OK, you followed the less-is-more approach and that's good. One thing that would help is to paint the centers on those metal wheels, they still have that fresh-from-the-box shine. They should be a flat, dusty gray or faded black color if you want to make them look 'real'.
One medium I recently discoved [thanx to the gang at MTW] is gouache - a highly-concentrated, water-based paint that dries extremely flat (available at any Michaels or artists supply stores). I used that stuff on the wheels of a Chessie PS2 2-bay cement hopper and was quite happy with the results.
I wasn't sure where to post this so posting here and in this week's WPF:
After toiling along on and off for the last six months, I finally finished my latest locmotive for my layout, a D&H RS-3m #504, this is the "good enuff" version, (long hood was not raised):
The model started out as an original Atlas RS-3 with my own castings for the nose, headlight/number board housing, dynamic brake box, exhaust stack, , sinclair antenna, air tanks and battery boxes. I used SmokeyValley stancions except for the front and rear for which I repurposed the original Atlas handrails. The fuel tank and pilot faces were also rebuilt.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Grampys Trains wrote:Hi all: I really like the premise of this thread. So, here is my first post here. I did a quickie weathering job on this coal hopper. I used Bar Mills black and rust powder. Does it need more or less weathering? BTW, you can't insult me, I was a sailor.
Just a few pointers that would add materially to the car's realistic appearance. You've got a nice start and, of course, much depends on just how much weathering the individual likes on his rolling stock. I'm personally not much of a fan of the rolling wrecks all too often painted up by some hobbyists today.
A coal hopper in heavy use would show a decided amount of darker weathering along and around the rivet lines, exterior bracing and especially the side sills, as compared to the open field of the panels (probably best accomplished with repeated washes of diluted India ink). If long in service, the logos and lettering would be visibly faded (done with a light overspray of a thinned color the same as the car body, best be done prior to any actual dark weathering).
Although not visible in your photo, the hopper's interior might be painted as moderately to heavily rusted, with an overcoating of thinned grimmy black (coal dust).
Likewise, a light coating of road dirt would likely be quite apparent low along the sides and particularly the ends of the car (thrown up by the wheels and the color of the dirt or ballast in the region the car has traveled through). The areas around the hopper doors would also be quite dark and dirty (coal dust, rust and road dirt).
The couplers, as well as the wheels (but not the treads!) would be quite dark from both rust and road weathering (both having never seen any paint).