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WALTHERS BUDD CARS - Evaluation

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 11:30 AM
My Walthers' Budds had stub axles mounted in acetal plastic tubes so gauge adjustment is just a slight rotation in or out.

What are yours made out of?
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,635 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Sunday, January 15, 2006 9:27 AM

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to tell you that I learned an embarassing lesson because I kept "putting off" a simple job involving couplers.

I took my HO P2K ACL E8, along with several Walthers Budd cars to the club I joined. As my train ran, I continued to have cars uncouple here and there on curves. The problem? I had not changed out the stock (or junk!) EZ-Mate couplers that come on the cars.Black Eye [B)] Upon close inspection I saw that the plastic tensioners (where a spring would normally be on a Kadee) had almost no tension left and knuckles were opening as cars glided through curves. Shock [:O]

I felt like an idiot, Dunce [D)]knowing that at home I had several packs of Kadee couplers that I'd bought over the year but had not installed on my Budds since I had been concentrating on building freight cars and weathering them.

Lesson learned: Don't run the equipment on a session until you've performed the needed homework! Tongue [:P]Black Eye [B)]Wink [;)]

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,635 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Monday, March 20, 2006 3:01 PM
Re: Couplers.

I've been experimenting with the following combination.

Kadee #49 and #42 "overset" shank couplers. The front of each car gets the #49 while the rear gets the 42. When coupled facing the correct direction, the gap between cars is not too wide, but still allows negotiating tighter curves.

I will be installing lighting kits in the near future.[;)]

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 1,261 posts
Posted by emdgp92 on Monday, March 20, 2006 3:54 PM
Walthers is having a sale on some of the Budd cars. I bought an NYC baggage-dorm and an Amtrak 10-6 sleeper for about $17 each. Even though I don't model those roads, PC ran similar cars. So, I'm going to strip and repaint them. With the NYC car, that's simple--a little gentle scraping with the x-acto knife, and the NYC lettering came right off. It'll be a simple matter of repainting and redecaling the letterboard. At least the kit includes PC-style numbers. The Amtrak car needs a bit more work. I'll have to strip and repaint the entire car. Oh well, I can't complain, since I still got a great deal [:D]
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • 550 posts
Posted by hdtvnut on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 12:17 AM
I have had a set of Amtrak Ph 2 Budds for awhile. Got six Seaboard
Coast Line cars at a show a few weeks ago for a bargain price. Then
saw the Walthers sale and bought two more.

All of these had those #$%@ plastic finger couplers, and I started
replacing them with Kadees last week. Like some of you, I found
#42's were needed, as 5's were too high according to my Kadee gauge.
I have chewed on Walthers several times about cheap couplers on
expensive cars. I now have a bag of about 200 of these and still
going........

The rolling friction will definitely not compare with Branchlines.

But they ARE pretty.

Hal

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,326 posts
Posted by selector on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 2:28 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by emdgp92

Walthers is having a sale on some of the Budd cars. I bought an NYC baggage-dorm and an Amtrak 10-6 sleeper for about $17 each. Even though I don't model those roads, PC ran similar cars. So, I'm going to strip and repaint them. With the NYC car, that's simple--a little gentle scraping with the x-acto knife, and the NYC lettering came right off. It'll be a simple matter of repainting and redecaling the letterboard. At least the kit includes PC-style numbers. The Amtrak car needs a bit more work. I'll have to strip and repaint the entire car. Oh well, I can't complain, since I still got a great deal [:D]


Their site has been down all night. [V]
  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: New York, NY
  • 229 posts
Posted by Tom Curtin on Tuesday, April 18, 2006 11:14 AM
QUOTE: I think the product is called Molybdenum, a by-product of lead mines. It is basically lead that did not solidify.


Well, that's partially correct --- except for the cpmment "it is basically lead that did not solidify."

Molybdenum and lead are two different elements in the periodic table. I point this out so people won't think of "moly" (as it is commpnly called) as something toxic like lead.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
  • 9,635 posts
Posted by AntonioFP45 on Thursday, July 27, 2006 9:35 PM

 Tom Curtin wrote:
QUOTE: I think the product is called Molybdenum, a by-product of lead mines. It is basically lead that did not solidify.


Well, that's partially correct --- except for the cpmment "it is basically lead that did not solidify."

Molybdenum and lead are two different elements in the periodic table. I point this out so people won't think of "moly" (as it is commpnly called) as something toxic like lead.

Woodland Scenics offers "Moly Grease" in a 1/3 oz. tube for just a few dollars.  Easy for any LHS to order if out of stock.  Part #HL656.  Use just a small amount inside the journals.

Peace.

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,264 posts
Posted by CAZEPHYR on Thursday, July 27, 2006 11:24 PM

Don

 

Thanks for the comments.  I copied them and filed them in my trains folder on the computer.

Thanks 

Cal

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 4,115 posts
Posted by tatans on Friday, July 28, 2006 8:34 AM
From the "DOWN" side of this report, and the problems and cost to rectify, and purchase new couplers, wouldn't this be a pretty good indicator NOT to buy this product? ? or is this something new out there? it seems people will buy anything as long as someone else buys it too.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Good ol' USA
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Posted by AntonioFP45 on Friday, July 28, 2006 1:31 PM

 tatans wrote:
From the "DOWN" side of this report, and the problems and cost to rectify, and purchase new couplers, wouldn't this be a pretty good indicator NOT to buy this product? ? or is this something new out there? it seems people will buy anything as long as someone else buys it too.

The Walthers Budd cars, IMHO, have been the finest and most accurate plastic HO streamliners on the market.  We just have to consider that many brand new products (including automobiles, home stereos, etc,) may have minor items "here and there" that may require tweaking.  It's a fact of life.  Doesn't mean it's a bad product. 

Overall my only problems with the Budds have been couplers, which are easy to fix. Don Gibson's input has been very valuable.  

If I had the money available I'd buy a total of 30 more Walthers Budd passenger cars in the SCL, ACL, SAL, RF&P, NYC, and Santa Fe schemes. 

For those of you that were around back in the 1980s, when Rivorossi's were just about the best plastic Budds we could get ( I have a batch)  you may agree that for the price these Walthers Budd cars are a huge leap ahead. Captain [4:-)]Thumbs Up [tup]

 

 

"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"

 


  • Member since
    July 2006
  • 3,264 posts
Posted by CAZEPHYR on Friday, July 28, 2006 1:55 PM

 tatans wrote:
From the "DOWN" side of this report, and the problems and cost to rectify, and purchase new couplers, wouldn't this be a pretty good indicator NOT to buy this product? ? or is this something new out there? it seems people will buy anything as long as someone else buys it too.

Not at all a good reason to write them off.  

For forty years, we have purchased cars and locomotives with hook horn couplers and replaced every one with Kadee's.  We did not avoid them just because they needed some upgrades. 

Most all of the available cars on the market use some after market couplers other than Kadee's since Kadee's are higher priced.  If you want great passenger cars, buy Coach Yard.  My last five Coach Yard cars came with #58 Kadee couplers and I did not have to replace them.

Thank you

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Colorado Springs, CO
  • 3,590 posts
Posted by csmith9474 on Sunday, July 30, 2006 10:50 AM
 CAZEPHYR wrote:

 tatans wrote:
From the "DOWN" side of this report, and the problems and cost to rectify, and purchase new couplers, wouldn't this be a pretty good indicator NOT to buy this product? ? or is this something new out there? it seems people will buy anything as long as someone else buys it too.

Not at all a good reason to write them off.  

For forty years, we have purchased cars and locomotives with hook horn couplers and replaced every one with Kadee's.  We did not avoid them just because they needed some upgrades. 

Most all of the available cars on the market use some after market couplers other than Kadee's since Kadee's are higher priced.  If you want great passenger cars, buy Coach Yard.  My last five Coach Yard cars came with #58 Kadee couplers and I did not have to replace them.

Thank you

 

Coach Yard cars are by far the finest cars I have purchased. The older Samhongsa and current Sam Tech stuff is definately superior quality. The only problem I have come across is having to tune the trucks up for regular operation. The only single thing I hate about The Coach Yard is waiting. By the time I get my Santa Fe division superintendent's business car (shorty), it will have been about two years since I first ordered it. I suppose the wait is well worth it though.

Smitty

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