DigitalGriffin I agree with Randy. Every sound decoder needs to have a power booster on the programming track output for the NCE PH Pro.
I agree with Randy. Every sound decoder needs to have a power booster on the programming track output for the NCE PH Pro.
Update - SoundTraxx Tsunami2 and Econami decoder do not require a programming track booster.
SoundTraxx Tsunami does require a programming track booster.
RR Baron
RR Baron DigitalGriffin I agree with Randy. Every sound decoder needs to have a power booster on the programming track output for the NCE PH Pro. Update - SoundTraxx Tsunami2 and Econami decoder do not require a programming track booster. SoundTraxx Tsunami does require a programming track booster. RR Baron
Rich
Alton Junction
Just a different design. I've never needed a program track booster for any brand sound decoder I've used so far, which includes QSI in the first Broadway Limited and Atlas models, an old Soundtraxx DSD-LC, Loksound 3.5, and Loksound Select. And a Tsunami. But the difference is I am using a Digitrax PR3 as a programmer. I was able to program these decoders with my Zephyr as well, no booster, no use of the Blast Mode. There are various combinations of systems and decoders that work better than others, Plus for reasons I am not able to explain, what works for one person doesn;t always work for the next.
Something almost certain to fail is havine a keep alive attached to the decoder, at least the 2 wire type. The capacitor will effectively 'suck up' the program track signal. The more expensive 3 wire types for specific decoders like Lenz and ESU use that extra wire to keep the cap disabled in certain circumstances.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
richhotrainC'mon back and confirm for us whether you have the PowerCab or the ProCab (PH-Pro).
Yeah the manual is unclear as well, it just says POWER PRO on the front, the cab says PROCAB.........you would think they would be consistent on the **** name throughout. So I went to the packing list from the shipping box (lol).
It says PH PRO R DCC System with Radio............so that should settle it. :)
CMStPnP,
FYI: Power Pro and PH-Pro are one and the same and the name for your NCE DCC system. ProCab is the name of the handheld throttle that you use with the Power Pro/PH-Pro.
And, FWIW, a Power Cab can be used with the Power Pro/PH-Pro as an additional ProCab throttle.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
CMStPnP richhotrain C'mon back and confirm for us whether you have the PowerCab or the ProCab (PH-Pro). Yeah the manual is unclear as well, it just says POWER PRO on the front, the cab says PROCAB.........you would think they would be consistent on the damn name throughout. So I went to the packing list from the shipping box (lol). It says PH PRO R DCC System with Radio............so that should settle it. :)
richhotrain C'mon back and confirm for us whether you have the PowerCab or the ProCab (PH-Pro).
Yeah the manual is unclear as well, it just says POWER PRO on the front, the cab says PROCAB.........you would think they would be consistent on the damn name throughout. So I went to the packing list from the shipping box (lol).
richhotrainahh, OK, good. Yep, that settles it. If you install the PTB-100, your problems with the Programming Track will end.
Bought the Soundtraxx PTB-100 at the local Hobby store, was surprised they had it in stock, I just need to wire it in.
Quick question on that, is it normal these days to have that exposed circuit board hanging out in the open? Isn't there like a housing or something it can be placed in? I guess I can hide it under a building or in scenery. Seems a little odd to sell it this way.
Since typically these things are mounted up under the layout out of the way, it's not too critical to cover up the board. Most circuit breaker and block detector systems are similarly open boards like that. If it's mounted up top, a cover of some sort wouldn't be a bad idea, to keep stray wires from valling on it or other tools and materials that could cause damage.
CMStPnP richhotrain ahh, OK, good. Yep, that settles it. If you install the PTB-100, your problems with the Programming Track will end. Bought the Soundtraxx PTB-100 at the local Hobby store, was surprised they had it in stock, I just need to wire it in. Quick question on that, is it normal these days to have that exposed circuit board hanging out in the open? Isn't there like a housing or something it can be placed in? I guess I can hide it under a building or in scenery. Seems a little odd to sell it this way.
richhotrain ahh, OK, good. Yep, that settles it. If you install the PTB-100, your problems with the Programming Track will end.
Do those circuit boards, regardless of purpose, throw off any significant amount of heat? Because if they do, it would not be a good idea to hide them under a building or something along those lines. My two circuit breakers are located under my layout simply because I did not want to brush up against them and do something bad to them.
Bear "It's all about having fun."
A program track booster shouldn;t get very warm if at all. A circuit breaker, it depends on the trip current setting and how much current actually is flowing through it. Some do caution you to add heat sinks to the switching transistors if you are using them anywhere near their rated current capacity (because the rating for the transistors only applies with adequate heat sinking - in free air with only the built in tab the current rating is much less). This shouldn;t be an issue with anyone using HO or smaller scales as you would typically never set the trip point anywhere near the maximum. I wouldn;t wrap the board in heat shrink, or put it in a totally sealed enclosure, but something surrounding the board with some air space that also has vent holes or slots should be just fine.
Upside-down under the benchwork should be pretty safe (unless you forget and drill down from the top...), unless someone comes along and reverse gravity, you're not going to drop bits of metal (like cut off ends of wire) or blobs of solder, or spill a glass of water UP onto the board.
I just spotted in the Circuitron offerings they have a slide in type rack for loose Circuit Boards and it looks like it mounts underneath the benchwork. I am going to try that because I am a notorious clutz around fragile items like this.
Here is the link, part number 9506. If it doesn't work I can still use it for other boards. But I think I can get it to fit.
http://www.traintekllc.com/signaling/circuitron/