I'm coming to a portion of my layout build where I'll need to use switch motors (so far, everything has been in reach and I've used Peco turnouts for the manual "snap" action they provide.
For this new section of the layout, I'll have about 11x turnouts in an urban switching area where they are buried in concrete/asphalt. I decided to go with Tortoise switch motors. I'd like to throw them with toggle switches and have LED indications on the fascia (using a schematic on the fascia as well for clarity).
I planned on using my old MRC Tech II 1400 poer pack to run the switches. So far I've come across the Circuitron Application Node (AN) 6000-07 as well as the following link: http://www.sierrascalemodels.com/Art_Lighted.htm
Just wondering if anyone else that has tackled this task has any adivce and/or if I'm heading down the right road.
Thanks for your help.
Mike
Mike, someone recently asked me how I did my control panel and I'll add below my reply (kinda long). I'll then add a photo.
I built my main control panel basis the Jan 2012 MR article "How to build & wire a turnout control panel" by Pelle Seeborg. It was a fun project early in my layout development. In case you don't have the article, I'll describe the approach I used, with perhaps some minor differences.
As background, I'm retired and build 2 layouts long ago and then got into building a small one for my grandson, which allowed me to get familiar again with HO trains. In 2012 I started the 5x10' or so layout you've seen. I used Walthers- Shinohara code 83 turnouts with Atlas flextrack. I have 20+ turnouts. They are powered by Tortoises, very popular and which I can highly recommend. The Tortoises are controlled by 12v DC, from a Circuitron 12v regulated power supply, via the DPDT switches you see in the control panel. I have NCE DCC running the trains but had no interest in throwing turnouts on this smallish layout via DCC. It seemed so much simpler to me to simply reach down and throw the desired DPDT on the control panel than to dial up on the DCC throttle a turnout number and then tell it what to do.(more than one step).
The control panel is made of a custom ordered 5/64" piece of sheet aluminum as Pelle suggests. It cost about $30 as I recall (I just googled an internet supplier) plus shipping but I wanted to take the suggested approach. First of course I needed to know what size. While some use PC software to draw their diagrams, I used 11x14 graph paper to draw the needed schematic. Note I simply used 45-degree angles for curves and turnouts, easy to draw on graph paper. Once I had my drawing, I knew the size piece I needed for the aluminum sheet and ordered it.
When I had the aluminum sheet in hand, I taped the paper schematic over it and at each needed point of divergence, I used a small hammer and sharp small nail to poke a small dent at each turn point in the schematic. This would be used later to draw and accurate diagram for painting.
I also determined where a bi-color turnout indicator LED should go in the "crotch" of each turnout track path and had it on my paper schematic and poked a dent for that hole to be drilled also. I then drilled holes in the aluminum sheet the at the various places where the LED holders would go.
EDIT: Before I did any of this, I made a mockup turnout and Tortoise installation on a smallish piece of plywood, plus a piece of cardboard as a control panel to experiment with DPDT and LED wiring, spacing of the LED hole from the "y" on the diagram, etc. It was nice to have that experience and confidence.
Now, with a drilled (for LEDs) and marked (for the schematic turn points) control panel sheet, I cleaned it well and primed it with rattle can primer. I then painted it rattle can white (probably flat white). I then use pinstriping tape to mark and mask the track diagram. That takes some care, just work patiently. Once the track diagram was masked (on the white) I spray painted the panel flat(?) black.. Then removed the pinstripe masking which revealed the white diagram on black.
After drying, I added the turnout DPDT switches (mine were minis) and the LEDs. The LEDs are in a sleeve that you can buy, using only one of two of the parts, just a friction fit. Of course, there's lots of soldering of the DPDTs and LEDs wiring but it's just one step at a time. When done, I added some dry transfer lettering. Then sprayed the whole thing with satin clear lacquer to seal the lettering. I even modified it twice, easier with additions, than deletions.
The panel is attached to a plywood panel that you commented on. I still like the approach. I put hinges on the bottom so I can flip it forward and do soldering. Added a springy rope that holds it flat.
I also recently got into structure lighting. In this case, I bought a piece of plastic (Lexan?) sheeting at Home Depot, cut it to desired size, painted it, added toggles to drilled holes, and attached ot to my fascia.
Since I always have trouble remembering what I got from folks like All Electronics, Mouser, etc, and it got too crummy today on the course to play the 2nd nine, I thought I'd provide some details on parts I used. From All Electronics, I used various length terminal strips, plus jumpers (JMP-24) where needed to create a common "side" on same. There are several within the control panel and some as well at the Tortoises (for frog powering and redundant switch signal lights (NJ International) on the layout at the mainline turnouts. The DPDTs are MTS-8 on-on mini-toggles. The bicolor LEDs are 5mm LED-6. The LED holders are HLED-4, two part items where I only needed the external piece as it fit just right in the hole size I drilled for the LEDs. I used red/black WRB-24 auto zip cord (can be ordered in any length) for the wiring from the power supply to the control panel terminal strips to the DPDTs (the LED is simply attached to one DPDT output leg) and to the terminal strip at the Tortoise. The pinstripe tape I used to mask the schematic lines is something I think I found on the internet or at the auto parts store. 1/8" x 40' Prostripe R20802. I enjoyed looking at your photos, especially the custom built structures. Good luck with your control panel plans.
Edit: I probably used heavier wire from the power supply to the terminal strips in the control panel, then used the 24AWG ripcord from the +/- sides of the terminal strip to the DPDTs/LEDs/Tortoise.
Oh, the yellow LEDs are power indicators for my three subdistricts, outputs from my OnGuard circuit breaker boards, so they are on when ok and flash when shorting.
It's a fun project.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
There are a number of ways to do this. How do you want the indicators to work? Do you want a green indicator for one path, and a red for the other, or would you prefer to have a pair of indicators showing green for the active path and red for the other?
Either way, the easiest way to do it is to take a two-lead red-green LED and simply wire it in series with the Tortoise motor. The motor itself provides enough resistance that you don't need an actual resistor to limit current in the circuit. If you want two lights, wire the second in parallel with the first but with the leads reversed.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
LION is specialist in Tortoise and in LED. LION very much advocates a single wire system to move the switch motors. That is one side of the switch motor goes to ground and the other side to your SPDT switch. The center tap from the switch goes to the Tortoise, and selects between either +12v DC or - 12v DC.
From that single wire you can enervate your panel lights and any and all signal masts you wish to install out on the layout. As a note, the toggles in your switch tower should all be DOWN when the points (or signals) are lined in their NORMAL position and should be UP to reverse the switch points.
My wiring diagrams and other tricks with tortoises are found here.
LIONS are serious about their interlocking towers!
This is what a simple setup might look like if built by GRS
Levers for signals are at the ends of the row and are painted red, levers for switch points are painted black. The levers on the left control all signals for trains moving from left to right through the plant, the levers on the right control all signals for trains moving from right to left.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Simple wiring for control of a Tortoise. Put the switch and LEDs on the control panel. The LEDs can be any color you want, typically Red, Yellow, or Green. Only one LED will come on at a time.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I wired mine like Elmer's diagram using two color (red/green) LED's, one each for the two routes leading from the control panel diagrammed turnouts. Both are on all the time, one red, the other green. Throw the turnout points and they switch colors. The active route is always shown green and the other red.
To further explain for the OP: There are devices called bi-color LEDs, which have 2 LEDs in them wired like the two shown in Elmer's diagram. Usual colors are red and gree, but others are available these days. There are two kinds - some have 3 wires, and some have 2 wires. You want the ones with 2 wires. If you take Elmer's diagream and put a circle around the diodes, with two wires sticking out to the sides, this is what you have. The LED will be red when the Tortoise is in one direction, green when in the other. What you do is simply take a second one of these, and wire it in series between the LEDs shown and the Tortoise machine. If they both end up red at the same time, flip the wires on one of the LEDs. Now one will be green, and the other red. If the red and green point to the wrong direction, reverse the two wires going to the Tortoise. Flip the toggle and change the Tortoise, and the one that was red will now be green, and the green one will now show red. This is the simplest way to hook up LEDs to a Tortoise, no resistors are needed, just the LEDs. Another benfit is that the Tortoise will run quieter. While they are spec'd for 12 volts, they are a bit noisy on a full 12 volts. The LEDs in series will drop a few volts each, so the Tortoise will see more like 8 volts. Still plenty powerful, but much quieter. All the wiring is in your panel, and only 2 wires need run to the Tortoise. Only one power supply is needed, and it runs both the Tortoises and the LEDs. Super easy.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I use the same schematic for my turnout indicators, but mine are at the turnout as shown in the photos. I just made some stryene housings for the red/green LED and it looks like a turnout lantern. I plan to add an LED to my panel as well but haven't gotten to that yet. Just another way to show track direction.
-Bob
Life is what happens while you are making other plans!
Thanks for all the info and replies ... putting together a plan now that incorporates a little bit of everything that you guys came up with.
Much appreciated.