Why not get it off the layout and test it? Maybe it's defective, but I still think it's the least likely result.
The reason you heard good things about the PSX-AR is that it is a good unit.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
I jumpered the j1 and j2 pin togeather with a wire soldering them. I then tried the unit on the upper level and it did the same thing the psx ar lights flash and the zepher shorts. So then i decided to take it to the smaller lower loop and give it a try and the same thing happened. I talked to a guy at dcc specialties today and he said all i would need to do is jumper those to pins and it would reduce it to 1.27 amp. I think i have a shotty unit. I need to still try the ar1 on the upper level. I have heard all good things about the psx ar when i researched it before i purchased it.
Well, he did the opposite, he put the PSX in place of the AR-1 on the lower level. Should work fine there because the AR-1 works fine (and it's a much simpler basic loop without all the extra track). While that doesn't elminate a wiring problem on the upper level, it does say that something's not right with the PSX.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker If an auto reverser is tripping every time metal wheels go over a gap entering a reversing section, there is something wired wrong
If an auto reverser is tripping every time metal wheels go over a gap entering a reversing section, there is something wired wrong
That's why I think that the upper level may be wired wrong and that something is amiss with the PSX-AR or the upper level wiring is OK but something is amiss with the PSX-AR.
Once again, if the OP would wire the AR1 to the upper level reversing section, he could resolve both issues, at least in terms of identifying the problem.
Rich
Alton Junction
rrinker The kicker that it's an adjustment (at least) for the PSX was when he said he swapped the PSX in place of the AR-1 that works fine and it didn't work there. That elminantes any issue with the upper level wiring.
The kicker that it's an adjustment (at least) for the PSX was when he said he swapped the PSX in place of the AR-1 that works fine and it didn't work there. That elminantes any issue with the upper level wiring.
Does it?
There could still be a problem with the upper level wiring. What the OP observed tells me that something is amiss with the PSX-AR because it didn't work on the lower level when the AR1 did. If the OP would try the AR1 on the upper level, if it worked, then he would know that the upper level wiring were good.
The kicker that it's an adjustment (at least) for the PSX was when he said he swapped the PSX in place of the AR-1 that works fine and it didn't work there. That elminantes any issue with the upper level wiring. If the AR-1 trips properly and allows a train to run smoothly throught he lower reverse loop then the PSX-AR should do the same.
If the reverse section is at least as long as the longest tain, that after a (possible) initial phase reversal to allow the loco into the reversing section, metal wheels or not there should NEVER be another reversal required until the train leaves the reversing section. If an auto reverser is tripping every time metal wheels go over a gap entering a reversing section, there is something wired wrong
well the kicker for me is the OP stated "the unit appeared to run fabulous for a while '' then when he was testing with more engines (im taking it as concist ) the problems started , could it be that the zepher was already amped out (due to the extra loccos)as the reverser kicked in ,thus throwing the overload of the zepher before the reverser could do its thing ? ..Jerry
richhotrain rrinker: I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards. If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly. The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy Randy, This is interesting stuff! I agree with you on the auto-reverser tripping once. That is how my AR1 units work, at least I only hear it click once. However, I have read where some guys claim that the auto-reverser is tripping every time metal wheels cross the gap, even if those wheels are not drawing power from the rails. I also agree with you that there is either a problem with the OP's PSX-AR or some feeders are hooked up backwards, or wired from the main bus to the reversing section, or wired from the reversing section to the main layout. Something is screwed up. Lastly, considering the fact that the PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an auto-reversing unit, that fact, in and of itself, may be the OP's problem. It may be tripping from a straight overload, particularly since the OP is operating with a 2.5 amp DCC system. I wonder if converting the upper level from a large reversing loop to a much smaller reversing section, as you have proposed, will solve that problem or if the OP will be better off dumping the PSX-AR in favor of another AR1, just like on the bottom level of his layout. Rich
rrinker: I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards. If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly. The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy
I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards.
If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly.
The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting.
Randy,
This is interesting stuff!
I agree with you on the auto-reverser tripping once. That is how my AR1 units work, at least I only hear it click once. However, I have read where some guys claim that the auto-reverser is tripping every time metal wheels cross the gap, even if those wheels are not drawing power from the rails.
I also agree with you that there is either a problem with the OP's PSX-AR or some feeders are hooked up backwards, or wired from the main bus to the reversing section, or wired from the reversing section to the main layout. Something is screwed up.
Lastly, considering the fact that the PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an auto-reversing unit, that fact, in and of itself, may be the OP's problem. It may be tripping from a straight overload, particularly since the OP is operating with a 2.5 amp DCC system. I wonder if converting the upper level from a large reversing loop to a much smaller reversing section, as you have proposed, will solve that problem or if the OP will be better off dumping the PSX-AR in favor of another AR1, just like on the bottom level of his layout.
My nickel says that the problem isn't the reverser, once the wiring is good, it's going to work. It is possible the trip level needs adjusting, but I am not ready to go there yet. A couple pieces of track off the layout, and fifteen minutes of testing could completely determine if the reverser is ok.
The short that trips the reverser does not depend on power being drawn though the wheels for a lighted car, or whatever. In fact, if there is power being drawn, there is no short, since the two rails must be already at different phases. For each traverse of the reverse section the reverser will trip exactly once, either when the first metal wheel hits the first gap entering the section, or the first gap leaving the section. Now, if the reverse section is not longer than the train, you run the risk of throwing the reverser into a bit of a tizzy if there are metal wheels crossing the gaps at both ends of the section alternately. Even then, you kind of get away with it if the reverser is fast enough, and there are not locos or lighted cars involved in the multiple crossings. Remember, the reverser is matching the reversing section's phase with the phase of the end that shorted. If there are metal wheels crossing both ends, back and forth it goes, but if there are no power consumers, it won't make much difference as each nearly instantaneous short comes and goes. A power consumer is a problem, because it will be spanning the gap for a long time, and if the other end is gets crossed at the same time, the reverser has no chance, it has a short at both ends, and can't match both sides. It will either just short and give up, or flip one way, which won't necessarily clear the short, and things won't be pretty.
If it was me, I would unhook the Zephyr from the layout, and feed a small section of track with it, wire up the reverser to another section, and short the individual rails to prove it all works right. Then you know the reverser is good, and that it shouldn't need to be tweaked for trip level. It's not rocket science.
rrinker I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards. If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly. The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy
rrinker While that SHOULD work - assuming EVERY feeder on the upper level past that turnout where the gaps are is powered fromt he PSX-AR - it might be easier if the track from the turnout where the insulated joiner is to the feeder on the bottom (right side if the picture was right-side up) - the one where the feeder X is right by the edge where the legend is - is logner than your longest train. You could put a gap there, just to the right of the feeder, plus the gap at the turnout, just for that track, and feed just the one section witht he PSX-AR. The rest would get fed fromt he main bus. Ony if taht section of track is longer than the longest train. Next step, I see you have a Zephyr system - the PSX-AR needs to be configured for a lower trip current to work right with the Zephyr. There is a jumper for that, and I think also a CV you can program instead. It's the "low power booster" option in the documentation. Unlike the AR-1, the PSX-AR does not have a simple potentiometer adjustment to make it easy to tweak, you have to mess with jumpers and/or CVs. --Randy
While that SHOULD work - assuming EVERY feeder on the upper level past that turnout where the gaps are is powered fromt he PSX-AR - it might be easier if the track from the turnout where the insulated joiner is to the feeder on the bottom (right side if the picture was right-side up) - the one where the feeder X is right by the edge where the legend is - is logner than your longest train. You could put a gap there, just to the right of the feeder, plus the gap at the turnout, just for that track, and feed just the one section witht he PSX-AR. The rest would get fed fromt he main bus. Ony if taht section of track is longer than the longest train.
Next step, I see you have a Zephyr system - the PSX-AR needs to be configured for a lower trip current to work right with the Zephyr. There is a jumper for that, and I think also a CV you can program instead. It's the "low power booster" option in the documentation. Unlike the AR-1, the PSX-AR does not have a simple potentiometer adjustment to make it easy to tweak, you have to mess with jumpers and/or CVs.
Randy's alternative wiring diagram should work just fine, and I like it because it provides a longer reversing section than the original wiring diagram. Having said that, I wonder if the original reversing section is too short. A lot depends, of course, on how long it is and whether there are lighted passenger cars or lighted cabooses.
Also, if the OP follows Randy's diagram, he should be sure to gaps the rails where Randy indicated and move the PSX-AR and the feeder wires to the new reversing section. The main bus wires should be on the input side of the PSX-AR and all of the feeder wires within the new reversing section should connect to the output side of the PSX-AR. There is no reason to keep the old gaps, so those should be removed; otherwise, feeder wires from the main bus wires need to be placed within the old gapped section of track.
Incidentally, for the sake of proper terminology, Randy has proposed a reversing section whereas the gapping in the original diagram created a reverse loop on the upper level. On the bottom level, there is a reversing loop. That will be obvious to Randy and DG but, perhaps, not to others.
I find it curious that, in the OP's initial post, he observed that when he first installed the PSX-AR on the upper level, it worked just fine. But, subsequently, it did not work probably. I cannot explain that situation.
Also, the OP observes that the quarter test came out perfectly on the lower level, but the quarter test failed, in a sense, since the Zephyr would show a short but not continue flashing numbers like it did on the bottom level. I don't operate the Zephyr system so I cannot respond to that issue. The op says that the upper level "will short out for a couple of moments and then stop".
As to the lack of feeder wires on the bottom level and "stray" feeders, the best bet is to completely wire both levels, placing feeder wires where necessary, and making certain than no feeder wires from the main bus directly connect to the track rails anywhere within a gapped reversing section (or loop).
As to dirty track, the OP says that he "can run an engine around the loop pretty flawless but it does seem to have a little hesitation here and there". Well, the obvious solution there is to clean all of the track before you go any further. Dirty track can certainly adversely affect performance of any auto-reversing unit.
Lastly, the OP mentions that the PSX-AR is shorting every time a wheel of an engine or car passes the insulated gap. I don't own any PSX-ARs (thank goodness, i strictly operate with Digitrax AR1 units - - four of them), but in my opinion that is normal with metal wheels even metal wheels that are not pick up wheels. As long as the shorts are momentary, and not dead shorts, I don't believe that it is a problem.
bnsf0823 I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine.
I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine.
If the AR1 worked fine on the lower level and the PSX-AR did not, then it sure seems like something is wrong with the PSX-AR, either the CV settings, the need for jumpers, or the unit itself is malfunctioning.
Put the AR1 on the upper level instead of the PSX-AR and seem if the upper level works OK. If the AR1 works on the upper level, you have a problem with the PSX-AR. If the AR1 doesn't work on the upper level, you have a problem with the upper level wiring.
BIG JERR bnsf0823: I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine. did I miss something here ,whats an ar1? I thought they were both psx-ar units excuse me I cant talk right now Im changing feet. ok Im better now ,if it is indead a differant type a unit then it may NOT be the psx-ar ,mite be back to that issue with adjusting for the lower voltage of the zepher .I need to think abit..Jerry
bnsf0823: I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine.
excuse me I cant talk right now Im changing feet.
ok Im better now ,if it is indead a differant type a unit then it may NOT be the psx-ar ,mite be back to that issue with adjusting for the lower voltage of the zepher .I need to think abit..Jerry
BIG JERR,
You are not alone. This is a pretty confusing thread.
Apparently, bnsf0823 has a Digitrax AR-1 on the bottom level and a PSX-AR on the upper level.
I don't know if the PSX-AR is the problem here, but I will say this. I prefer the AR-1 to the PSX-AR because the PSX-AR requires too much fiddling around with CV settings and jumpers. Some people object to the AR-1 because they claim its reaction time is a wee bit slower and it has an audible click when reversing polarity. Phooey. It works flawlessly, and that is good enough for me.
bnsf0823 I think im starting to understand this. The red will be my reversing section even though it is not a true reverse loop. The psx-ar would attach to the feeders in that red section or to the rest of the buss on the upper level? If we go this method does this mean i have to always run my trains in one direction because what if i have one train heading on the "red line" then another train heading through that first turnout on the top level would that cause a problem? Yes that section in red would be longer than my longest train. i understand your concept of shortinng the reverse loop i just im unsure what power to hook to what? I hope i don't have you beating your head on anything im learning and really appreciate you helping.
I think im starting to understand this. The red will be my reversing section even though it is not a true reverse loop. The psx-ar would attach to the feeders in that red section or to the rest of the buss on the upper level? If we go this method does this mean i have to always run my trains in one direction because what if i have one train heading on the "red line" then another train heading through that first turnout on the top level would that cause a problem? Yes that section in red would be longer than my longest train. i understand your concept of shortinng the reverse loop i just im unsure what power to hook to what? I hope i don't have you beating your head on anything im learning and really appreciate you helping.
The red section would be fed by the output of the PSX-AR. The rest of the feeders on the top would all be powered by the main bus. You would NOT be restricted to one-way operatation - the straight leg of the turnout all the way through the rest of the upper level would always have the feeders on the same side. Trains could always go that way. If they take the path through the red section, the red section will change polarity (by the action of the PSX-AR) and match the polarity at the turnout side. If you draw out the plan with both rails represented you will see that if the polarity of the red section matches at the turnout side, it will NOT match at the other end along the bottom. So as the train exist the red section heading to the right, the PSX-AR will once again change polarity of the red section to make it match the rest. This is where the idea of the longest train comes in - a train cannot be entering and exiting the red section at the same time.
Now if the train comes in the stright side, and goes around the upper level clockwise, when it gets to the red section at the bottom, the PSX-AR will match the polarity. It now doesn't match over by the turnout on the left, but when the train exits the red section, the PSX-AR will change the polarity.
It MIGHT be defective, but I'd do the change to CV49 to reduce the trip current first. The default setting is more than the Zephyr can put out so it doesn't surprise me that the PSX doesn't trip but the Zephyr does. If it still doesn't work, send it back.
well since we have all this help here I went ahead and ordered my psxar's, so I can use all this info while its fresh in my head and maybe understand it better having it here on my desk
BNSF,
Your picture helped out a lot. Thanks.
Now let me see if I can help you out with the other suggestions....
1) Make sure BOTH tracks at BOTH ends is gapped for the reversing section. (4 gaps total) If you don't have any breaks in your rail on the outside rail then that could wrap back around to the turnout causing a short.
2) Randy came up with a good place for the reversing section. Another alternative would be top center as you come out of the tunnel and circle over the river.
3) To set the 1.27 amp auto switch breaker limit, you can short the first two pins of jumper 6 together. It will say J6 on the board itself and I believe it is on the lower right as a series of 4 pins if you hold the board horizontally.
We'll figure it out! Hang in there.
If you want to try your hand at programming the auto reverser, let me know and I'll give you step by step directions like for photobucket.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
bnsf0823 What do you mean by stray feeder? Like a feeder thats not attached to the buss line just hanging there. Cause i do have a couple of feeder wires that are hooked to the buss but not the track but i didn't think that would be a problem.
What do you mean by stray feeder? Like a feeder thats not attached to the buss line just hanging there. Cause i do have a couple of feeder wires that are hooked to the buss but not the track but i didn't think that would be a problem.
It's OR like I said, you cna solder a jumper OR set CV49.
I don;t know how to make my picture any clearer - I marked the isolated section in red and use the same convention you did with double perpendicular lines to indicate the gaps in both rails. The key is, will your longest train fit in that space? If not, we need a different plan.
And Jerry - it doesn't matter, there is no 'rule' that says bot sides of a turnotu have to be included in a reverse loop. The key is matching the phase (polarity) of the rails at the point where the train is crossing the gaps. That's why (partly) the isolated section has to be at least as long as your longest train (unless you never run lighted cars or cabooses, and don't have any metal wheels on cars). The phase change with DCC happens under the moving train, exactly the opposite way a DC reverse loop works - because the phase has no bearing on the direction the loco will move. They key is that the phase of the rail on either side of the gap has to be the same - this is what an autoreverser does, it detects the short that occurs when it's not, and flips the phase of the reversing section. Now the phase matches. If you put a voltmeter across the gap - one probe on one side of the insulated joiner and one probe on the other, there would be no voltage if the phase is matched, or full track voltage if it's not. With a reverse loop arrangement, because the track turns back on itself, if the power is in phase at one end of the isolated section, it will by neccessity be out of phase at the opposite end - this is why the isolated section has to be as long as the longest train, the phase can't change at both ends at the same time. To see how this works, draw it out with both rails shown, not a simplified single line for the track drawing. Color one rail red, and the other rail blue. Trace over the rail exactly - no cheating. You will see that in a reverse loop situation the red runs into the blue - a short. Thus insulated joiners to make a gap, and an autoreverser to flip the phase as the train crosses them.
my question is do i don't understand what the instructions on the psx ar are telling me about programming do i connect wires directly to the pins on the psx ar or can i just go ops cv49 d2 and change it through the tracks. Also if you could send me a simple picture of what you want me to isolate that would be much easier for me. Thank you for hanging in there with me i really want to solve this issue so i can play trains. Once i get past the wiring of this it's all down hill for me but this is the most difficult part of the hobby for me. thanks again.
I see what randy is saying and it makes since. ( Im not the op here though) BUT Randy would the psx- ar still fire the turn out moter since only half the turn out is the reverse section?, ld assume it wouldnt be a problem but had to ask.Jerry
This is what I am suggesting - make the red line the reversing section, power the remainign feeders all from where the power comes in to the PSX-AR.
bnsf0823 I don't understand what you want me to do it sounds like you want me to isolate the psx ar from the rest of the whole upper loop, but then won't that cause shorts when i have other trains on the upper layout running or even just sitting. Im confused about how the power runs through the tracks and the buss lines. Does anyone live around lincoln nebraska that can help? me cause im very confused right now. Would dirty track make a difference? or the loop size be to big. do i just program cv49 through ops mode then change it to d1 or d2? and do you mean jumper by attaching a wire between the to ports on psx ar with a wire or what?
I don't understand what you want me to do it sounds like you want me to isolate the psx ar from the rest of the whole upper loop, but then won't that cause shorts when i have other trains on the upper layout running or even just sitting. Im confused about how the power runs through the tracks and the buss lines. Does anyone live around lincoln nebraska that can help? me cause im very confused right now. Would dirty track make a difference? or the loop size be to big. do i just program cv49 through ops mode then change it to d1 or d2? and do you mean jumper by attaching a wire between the to ports on psx ar with a wire or what?
Either way. Programming CV49 in Ops Mode is probably easier than soldering a wire in there. I wish they weren't so cheap and woudl include the jumper pins - a strip of a couple dozen pins is only a buck, enough to do a bunch of boards - and that's at the price you and I can buy them when buying just one pack of such pins. It would add pennies at most to the cost of the device to include the jumpers instead of leaving it up you to try and solder to the board. I guess they figure it's not needed since you cna program CVs and do the same thing. But CVs can get reset or wiped out, a physcal jumper will always be set.
The problem with dropping the trip current is the way you have things iwred, your entire top level is running through the PSX-AR. That's why I asked about that one lower track - if it's longer than your longest train, make that the reverse section, everythign else on the upper level would be powered by the main bus, same as all the track on the lower level that does not go through the AR-1.
hey Guy;hang in there .Im followig this quite close cause your plan and hardware are very similar to mine except I havent got to the psx- ar units yet ,but in near future.Now I dont know any thing here BUT and that could be a big but ,looking at your plan thers a lot of feeders on the problem leval(cause its more than twice the track) makes me wonder if there isnt a chance of a stray feeder or even a joint or 1/2 pair thats not on the wrong buss ?? may be some thing intermitant ?like I said I am taking shots in the dark ....another idea that I would concider is to change the possitions or the psx- ar units ( or take the one thats working fine and put it where the problem unit is and vis versa ? I dont know how dificult that mite be but thease are a couple things to do till you get a good peace of info. but my guess is a stray feeder mabe a turn out or siding ...Please update us even when you find the problem so others may benifit from your findings(like me)..Jerry
This is my layout in a nut shell. Like i said the psx ar is not working right on the top loop. Everything on the bottom seems to be working great even the ar 1 on the bottom reverse loop. Please look this over and see if there is anything i need to change add or do to get this working correctly. if it is cv 49 please explain how to change this to make it work. Thank you very much for all your help. The bottom of the layout shorts out real good with the quarter test. but the top not so well it wil short out for a couple moments and then stop. ??????