bnsf0823 I think im starting to understand this. The red will be my reversing section even though it is not a true reverse loop. The psx-ar would attach to the feeders in that red section or to the rest of the buss on the upper level? If we go this method does this mean i have to always run my trains in one direction because what if i have one train heading on the "red line" then another train heading through that first turnout on the top level would that cause a problem? Yes that section in red would be longer than my longest train. i understand your concept of shortinng the reverse loop i just im unsure what power to hook to what? I hope i don't have you beating your head on anything im learning and really appreciate you helping.
I think im starting to understand this. The red will be my reversing section even though it is not a true reverse loop. The psx-ar would attach to the feeders in that red section or to the rest of the buss on the upper level? If we go this method does this mean i have to always run my trains in one direction because what if i have one train heading on the "red line" then another train heading through that first turnout on the top level would that cause a problem? Yes that section in red would be longer than my longest train. i understand your concept of shortinng the reverse loop i just im unsure what power to hook to what? I hope i don't have you beating your head on anything im learning and really appreciate you helping.
The red section would be fed by the output of the PSX-AR. The rest of the feeders on the top would all be powered by the main bus. You would NOT be restricted to one-way operatation - the straight leg of the turnout all the way through the rest of the upper level would always have the feeders on the same side. Trains could always go that way. If they take the path through the red section, the red section will change polarity (by the action of the PSX-AR) and match the polarity at the turnout side. If you draw out the plan with both rails represented you will see that if the polarity of the red section matches at the turnout side, it will NOT match at the other end along the bottom. So as the train exist the red section heading to the right, the PSX-AR will once again change polarity of the red section to make it match the rest. This is where the idea of the longest train comes in - a train cannot be entering and exiting the red section at the same time.
Now if the train comes in the stright side, and goes around the upper level clockwise, when it gets to the red section at the bottom, the PSX-AR will match the polarity. It now doesn't match over by the turnout on the left, but when the train exits the red section, the PSX-AR will change the polarity.
It MIGHT be defective, but I'd do the change to CV49 to reduce the trip current first. The default setting is more than the Zephyr can put out so it doesn't surprise me that the PSX doesn't trip but the Zephyr does. If it still doesn't work, send it back.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
bnsf0823 I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine.
I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine.
excuse me I cant talk right now Im changing feet.
ok Im better now ,if it is indead a differant type a unit then it may NOT be the psx-ar ,mite be back to that issue with adjusting for the lower voltage of the zepher .I need to think abit..Jerry
BIG JERR bnsf0823: I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine. did I miss something here ,whats an ar1? I thought they were both psx-ar units excuse me I cant talk right now Im changing feet. ok Im better now ,if it is indead a differant type a unit then it may NOT be the psx-ar ,mite be back to that issue with adjusting for the lower voltage of the zepher .I need to think abit..Jerry
bnsf0823: I moved the psx ar to the bottom loop to see if it would work down there and it did the same thing. I think i might have a problem with the unit. The ar1 worked down there just fine.
BIG JERR,
You are not alone. This is a pretty confusing thread.
Apparently, bnsf0823 has a Digitrax AR-1 on the bottom level and a PSX-AR on the upper level.
I don't know if the PSX-AR is the problem here, but I will say this. I prefer the AR-1 to the PSX-AR because the PSX-AR requires too much fiddling around with CV settings and jumpers. Some people object to the AR-1 because they claim its reaction time is a wee bit slower and it has an audible click when reversing polarity. Phooey. It works flawlessly, and that is good enough for me.
Rich
Alton Junction
If the AR1 worked fine on the lower level and the PSX-AR did not, then it sure seems like something is wrong with the PSX-AR, either the CV settings, the need for jumpers, or the unit itself is malfunctioning.
Put the AR1 on the upper level instead of the PSX-AR and seem if the upper level works OK. If the AR1 works on the upper level, you have a problem with the PSX-AR. If the AR1 doesn't work on the upper level, you have a problem with the upper level wiring.
rrinker While that SHOULD work - assuming EVERY feeder on the upper level past that turnout where the gaps are is powered fromt he PSX-AR - it might be easier if the track from the turnout where the insulated joiner is to the feeder on the bottom (right side if the picture was right-side up) - the one where the feeder X is right by the edge where the legend is - is logner than your longest train. You could put a gap there, just to the right of the feeder, plus the gap at the turnout, just for that track, and feed just the one section witht he PSX-AR. The rest would get fed fromt he main bus. Ony if taht section of track is longer than the longest train. Next step, I see you have a Zephyr system - the PSX-AR needs to be configured for a lower trip current to work right with the Zephyr. There is a jumper for that, and I think also a CV you can program instead. It's the "low power booster" option in the documentation. Unlike the AR-1, the PSX-AR does not have a simple potentiometer adjustment to make it easy to tweak, you have to mess with jumpers and/or CVs. --Randy
While that SHOULD work - assuming EVERY feeder on the upper level past that turnout where the gaps are is powered fromt he PSX-AR - it might be easier if the track from the turnout where the insulated joiner is to the feeder on the bottom (right side if the picture was right-side up) - the one where the feeder X is right by the edge where the legend is - is logner than your longest train. You could put a gap there, just to the right of the feeder, plus the gap at the turnout, just for that track, and feed just the one section witht he PSX-AR. The rest would get fed fromt he main bus. Ony if taht section of track is longer than the longest train.
Next step, I see you have a Zephyr system - the PSX-AR needs to be configured for a lower trip current to work right with the Zephyr. There is a jumper for that, and I think also a CV you can program instead. It's the "low power booster" option in the documentation. Unlike the AR-1, the PSX-AR does not have a simple potentiometer adjustment to make it easy to tweak, you have to mess with jumpers and/or CVs.
Randy's alternative wiring diagram should work just fine, and I like it because it provides a longer reversing section than the original wiring diagram. Having said that, I wonder if the original reversing section is too short. A lot depends, of course, on how long it is and whether there are lighted passenger cars or lighted cabooses.
Also, if the OP follows Randy's diagram, he should be sure to gaps the rails where Randy indicated and move the PSX-AR and the feeder wires to the new reversing section. The main bus wires should be on the input side of the PSX-AR and all of the feeder wires within the new reversing section should connect to the output side of the PSX-AR. There is no reason to keep the old gaps, so those should be removed; otherwise, feeder wires from the main bus wires need to be placed within the old gapped section of track.
Incidentally, for the sake of proper terminology, Randy has proposed a reversing section whereas the gapping in the original diagram created a reverse loop on the upper level. On the bottom level, there is a reversing loop. That will be obvious to Randy and DG but, perhaps, not to others.
I find it curious that, in the OP's initial post, he observed that when he first installed the PSX-AR on the upper level, it worked just fine. But, subsequently, it did not work probably. I cannot explain that situation.
Also, the OP observes that the quarter test came out perfectly on the lower level, but the quarter test failed, in a sense, since the Zephyr would show a short but not continue flashing numbers like it did on the bottom level. I don't operate the Zephyr system so I cannot respond to that issue. The op says that the upper level "will short out for a couple of moments and then stop".
As to the lack of feeder wires on the bottom level and "stray" feeders, the best bet is to completely wire both levels, placing feeder wires where necessary, and making certain than no feeder wires from the main bus directly connect to the track rails anywhere within a gapped reversing section (or loop).
As to dirty track, the OP says that he "can run an engine around the loop pretty flawless but it does seem to have a little hesitation here and there". Well, the obvious solution there is to clean all of the track before you go any further. Dirty track can certainly adversely affect performance of any auto-reversing unit.
Lastly, the OP mentions that the PSX-AR is shorting every time a wheel of an engine or car passes the insulated gap. I don't own any PSX-ARs (thank goodness, i strictly operate with Digitrax AR1 units - - four of them), but in my opinion that is normal with metal wheels even metal wheels that are not pick up wheels. As long as the shorts are momentary, and not dead shorts, I don't believe that it is a problem.
I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards.
If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly.
The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting.
rrinker I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards. If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly. The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy
Randy,
This is interesting stuff!
I agree with you on the auto-reverser tripping once. That is how my AR1 units work, at least I only hear it click once. However, I have read where some guys claim that the auto-reverser is tripping every time metal wheels cross the gap, even if those wheels are not drawing power from the rails.
I also agree with you that there is either a problem with the OP's PSX-AR or some feeders are hooked up backwards, or wired from the main bus to the reversing section, or wired from the reversing section to the main layout. Something is screwed up.
Lastly, considering the fact that the PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an auto-reversing unit, that fact, in and of itself, may be the OP's problem. It may be tripping from a straight overload, particularly since the OP is operating with a 2.5 amp DCC system. I wonder if converting the upper level from a large reversing loop to a much smaller reversing section, as you have proposed, will solve that problem or if the OP will be better off dumping the PSX-AR in favor of another AR1, just like on the bottom level of his layout.
richhotrain rrinker: I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards. If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly. The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy Randy, This is interesting stuff! I agree with you on the auto-reverser tripping once. That is how my AR1 units work, at least I only hear it click once. However, I have read where some guys claim that the auto-reverser is tripping every time metal wheels cross the gap, even if those wheels are not drawing power from the rails. I also agree with you that there is either a problem with the OP's PSX-AR or some feeders are hooked up backwards, or wired from the main bus to the reversing section, or wired from the reversing section to the main layout. Something is screwed up. Lastly, considering the fact that the PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an auto-reversing unit, that fact, in and of itself, may be the OP's problem. It may be tripping from a straight overload, particularly since the OP is operating with a 2.5 amp DCC system. I wonder if converting the upper level from a large reversing loop to a much smaller reversing section, as you have proposed, will solve that problem or if the OP will be better off dumping the PSX-AR in favor of another AR1, just like on the bottom level of his layout. Rich
rrinker: I guess a little more detail is needed. Exactly what shorts when a metal wheel crosses the gaps? The autoreverser, regardless of brand, should short and flip itself exactly ONCE. After that, the polarity on the rails across the gaps should match and there should not be any more shorts until the gaps are crossed on the other side of the loop. Anything else and there is a problem. If the Zephyr is shorting - then there is a problem with the reverser not reversing or some feeders are hooked up backwards. If substituting the PSX-AR for the AR-1 in a reversing section that has been working reliably, and the PSX-AR does not reverse, then either the PSX is defective or not configured properly. The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy
My nickel says that the problem isn't the reverser, once the wiring is good, it's going to work. It is possible the trip level needs adjusting, but I am not ready to go there yet. A couple pieces of track off the layout, and fifteen minutes of testing could completely determine if the reverser is ok.
The short that trips the reverser does not depend on power being drawn though the wheels for a lighted car, or whatever. In fact, if there is power being drawn, there is no short, since the two rails must be already at different phases. For each traverse of the reverse section the reverser will trip exactly once, either when the first metal wheel hits the first gap entering the section, or the first gap leaving the section. Now, if the reverse section is not longer than the train, you run the risk of throwing the reverser into a bit of a tizzy if there are metal wheels crossing the gaps at both ends of the section alternately. Even then, you kind of get away with it if the reverser is fast enough, and there are not locos or lighted cars involved in the multiple crossings. Remember, the reverser is matching the reversing section's phase with the phase of the end that shorted. If there are metal wheels crossing both ends, back and forth it goes, but if there are no power consumers, it won't make much difference as each nearly instantaneous short comes and goes. A power consumer is a problem, because it will be spanning the gap for a long time, and if the other end is gets crossed at the same time, the reverser has no chance, it has a short at both ends, and can't match both sides. It will either just short and give up, or flip one way, which won't necessarily clear the short, and things won't be pretty.
If it was me, I would unhook the Zephyr from the layout, and feed a small section of track with it, wire up the reverser to another section, and short the individual rails to prove it all works right. Then you know the reverser is good, and that it shouldn't need to be tweaked for trip level. It's not rocket science.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
well the kicker for me is the OP stated "the unit appeared to run fabulous for a while '' then when he was testing with more engines (im taking it as concist ) the problems started , could it be that the zepher was already amped out (due to the extra loccos)as the reverser kicked in ,thus throwing the overload of the zepher before the reverser could do its thing ? ..Jerry
The kicker that it's an adjustment (at least) for the PSX was when he said he swapped the PSX in place of the AR-1 that works fine and it didn't work there. That elminantes any issue with the upper level wiring. If the AR-1 trips properly and allows a train to run smoothly throught he lower reverse loop then the PSX-AR should do the same.
If the reverse section is at least as long as the longest tain, that after a (possible) initial phase reversal to allow the loco into the reversing section, metal wheels or not there should NEVER be another reversal required until the train leaves the reversing section. If an auto reverser is tripping every time metal wheels go over a gap entering a reversing section, there is something wired wrong
rrinker The kicker that it's an adjustment (at least) for the PSX was when he said he swapped the PSX in place of the AR-1 that works fine and it didn't work there. That elminantes any issue with the upper level wiring.
The kicker that it's an adjustment (at least) for the PSX was when he said he swapped the PSX in place of the AR-1 that works fine and it didn't work there. That elminantes any issue with the upper level wiring.
Does it?
There could still be a problem with the upper level wiring. What the OP observed tells me that something is amiss with the PSX-AR because it didn't work on the lower level when the AR1 did. If the OP would try the AR1 on the upper level, if it worked, then he would know that the upper level wiring were good.
rrinker If an auto reverser is tripping every time metal wheels go over a gap entering a reversing section, there is something wired wrong
If an auto reverser is tripping every time metal wheels go over a gap entering a reversing section, there is something wired wrong
That's why I think that the upper level may be wired wrong and that something is amiss with the PSX-AR or the upper level wiring is OK but something is amiss with the PSX-AR.
Once again, if the OP would wire the AR1 to the upper level reversing section, he could resolve both issues, at least in terms of identifying the problem.
Well, he did the opposite, he put the PSX in place of the AR-1 on the lower level. Should work fine there because the AR-1 works fine (and it's a much simpler basic loop without all the extra track). While that doesn't elminate a wiring problem on the upper level, it does say that something's not right with the PSX.
I jumpered the j1 and j2 pin togeather with a wire soldering them. I then tried the unit on the upper level and it did the same thing the psx ar lights flash and the zepher shorts. So then i decided to take it to the smaller lower loop and give it a try and the same thing happened. I talked to a guy at dcc specialties today and he said all i would need to do is jumper those to pins and it would reduce it to 1.27 amp. I think i have a shotty unit. I need to still try the ar1 on the upper level. I have heard all good things about the psx ar when i researched it before i purchased it.
Why not get it off the layout and test it? Maybe it's defective, but I still think it's the least likely result.
The reason you heard good things about the PSX-AR is that it is a good unit.
bnsf0823 I jumper-ed the j1 and j2 pin togeather with a wire soldering them. I then tried the unit on the upper level and it did the same thing the psx ar lights flash and the zephyr shorts. So then i decided to take it to the smaller lower loop and give it a try and the same thing happened. I talked to a guy at dcc specialties today and he said all i would need to do is jumper those to pins and it would reduce it to 1.27 amp. I think i have a shotty unit. I need to still try the ar1 on the upper level. I have heard all good things about the psx ar when i researched it before i purchased it.
I jumper-ed the j1 and j2 pin togeather with a wire soldering them. I then tried the unit on the upper level and it did the same thing the psx ar lights flash and the zephyr shorts. So then i decided to take it to the smaller lower loop and give it a try and the same thing happened. I talked to a guy at dcc specialties today and he said all i would need to do is jumper those to pins and it would reduce it to 1.27 amp. I think i have a shotty unit. I need to still try the ar1 on the upper level. I have heard all good things about the psx ar when i researched it before i purchased it.
Hey BNSF
I started out in the hobby about 3 years with a Zephyr and an AR 1. I had similar problems. IMHO you really have to check and understand the red - blue track polarity and the same with the color coded buss wire. I finally got rid of both units and used a simple toggle switch. As I look back on the problem I think maybe it was because I could not adjust the AR low enough to keep from tripping the Zephyr. Now when I want to enter the reversing loop I set the "Y" turnout and the polarity switch to go the same way.I now use the NCE Power Cab and a dollar toggle switch.
"Never give up"
Lee
yankee flyer Hey BNSF I started out in the hobby about 3 years with a Zephyr and an AR 1. I had similar problems. IMHO you really have to check and understand the red - blue track polarity and the same with the color coded buss wire. I finally got rid of both units and used a simple toggle switch. As I look back on the problem I think maybe it was because I could not adjust the AR low enough to keep from tripping the Zephyr. Now when I want to enter the reversing loop I set the "Y" turnout and the polarity switch to go the same way.I now use the NCE Power Cab and a dollar toggle switch. "Never give up" Lee
Lee,
You may be right about the Zephyr power requirements, but it is interesting to note that the AR1 works fine on the lower level. It is the PSX-AR that is causing the problem. Perhaps the PSX-AR is not suited to work with a 2.5 amp Zephyr system.
I have a PSX-AR that works with the original Prodigy, which is lower power than the Zephyr (don't remember exactly what at the moment).
Too many variables... get it off the layout and test it. In 15 minutes, you will KNOW if it is defective or not, and all the speculation can stop!
I agree with Jeff,bench test it . and we cant forget that it did work for a while according to bnsf..Jerry
Vail and Southwestern RR Too many variables... get it off the layout and test it. In 15 minutes, you will KNOW if it is defective or not, and all the speculation can stop!
LOL
For your sake alone, Jeff, I wish he would take it off the layout and test it.
But, hey, what's the hurry, it's only been 7 days since he first posted the problem.
He may eventually get around to it.
The other benefit of taking it off the layout and testing it... you will learn how it really operates! There's a air of mysticism about autoreversers.... but they are not that complicated!
rrinker The problem witht he entire upper level being a reversing loop the way it was originally drawn is that by setting the PSX to a low enough current trip to that it trips before the Zephyr, it limits how many trains can be on the upper level in total. The PSX-AR is both a circuit breaker and an autoreverse, so it will trip from a straight overload as well as attempt to reverse the polarity - basically it first reverses the polarity and if a short is still detected it turns off power entirely. The default setting requires over 3 ams to trip, which is more than the Zephyr can supply, so the Zephyr's internal circuit breaker will trip before the PSX unless the PSX is configured to a lower setting. --Randy
+1
When he said, "It shorts" he didn't indicate if it was the PSX-AR or the Zephyr. It was the Zephyr then he didn't set the trip current on the PSX-AR low enough. (99% likely.)
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
bnsf0823 I jumpered the j1 and j2 pin togeather with a wire soldering them. I then tried the unit on the upper level and it did the same thing the psx ar lights flash and the zepher shorts. So then i decided to take it to the smaller lower loop and give it a try and the same thing happened. I talked to a guy at dcc specialties today and he said all i would need to do is jumper those to pins and it would reduce it to 1.27 amp. I think i have a shotty unit. I need to still try the ar1 on the upper level. I have heard all good things about the psx ar when i researched it before i purchased it.
When the PSX-AR is working it will blink to indicate it reversed polarity. When it shorts, it will become solid lit.
Are your rail splits directly across from each other? (Not staggered)
I just want to make sure, but you said J1 and J2. It's supposed to be J6 pins 1 & 2.
I circled them in red bottom center. For the jumpers to work: CV49 has to be 0.
Please also make sure J3 is on pins 2 & 3 after you are done programming CV49. (Operations mode)
I tested the psx ar and it worked without the output hooked up. The guy at dcc spec said to program the psx ar to 2.54 amps but i just do not understand the instructions. it reads with to power off put the programming jumper on pins 1-2 do they mean on the zephyr or the psx ar then turn on power program on main line, setup a fake loco address in order to get the cv settng operation. put any address hit enter then you can start entering cv #s followed by the values then turn power off and replace program jumper to pins 2-3. cv49 value2 =2.54 amps. Can someone explain step by step what needs to be moved in detail. i don't understand what jumper they are talking about the one on the back of my zephyr or what. This is about my last option i cleared my whole layout today boxed everything up and cleaned my track. (maybe sell it all) just joking.
yes j6 1-2 is what i jumpered. i can only think that this is something so simple but i don't know whay i can't figure it out.
J6 1-2 jumpered sets it for 1.27 amps. Nothing else needs to be done.
Not sure what is so hard to understand about the CV49 method - but it will NOT work now that you have JP6 1-2 with a wire soldered in. You need to take that off if you want to use the CV49 programming.
To do CV49: turn off track power. Put the program jumper J3 on pins 1 and 2. Turn on track power. Select a loco address that you DO NOT have on the track, 01 will work. Just like selecting any other loco. The hit the Program button untilt he display says Po for Ops Mode. Press CV, enter 49, press CV, enter 02 for 2.54 amps, press CV-WR. Turn off track power. Put J3 back to 2-3 for normal operation. DOne.
But this will not work with J6 having a wire soldered in.
If the PSX works fine with no track connectd to it, then you have a feeder hooed up backwards somewhere or some other wire fault. Your gaps - do the have plastic joiners or did you just cut through the rails with a Dremel? If you just cut through the rail, make sure the gap hasn't closed up, either through the rail shifting or a piece of metal getting lodged in there - that sort of thign would explain why it worked the first time but then stopped workingIf you cut the gaps with a Dremel, you shoudl glue in small bits of plastic to keep the rails from closing up. Glue it in then cut and file to the shape of the rail.
If the gaps are fine, check the feeders. If you haven't altered the track from the original plan, every single feeder past the turnout where the gaps are should be connected to the PSX. And they mus all be connected the same wayIf you pick as a starting point the track I marked in red on my version and follow the track around, the rail on the right moving in a counter-clockwise direction must ALWAYS be hooked up to the rail on the right at each and every feeder. Every single one. One mistake and it very likely could be that it's not enough of a short to continuously short, but it woudl keep the PSX from reversing. two or more wired wrong would almost certainly be a full time shot as soon as the power was turned on, but check over this wiring. EVERY ONEof those upper level feeders has to go to the output side of the PSX.
Okay here's a simple test for the PSX-AR
Disconnect the wires between the track feeders/bus and the PSX-AR. Keep the wires between the booster and PSX-AR connected however.
Turn on your Zephyr. Take a wire and Quickly short the output terminals on the PSX-AR. It should blink. This means it's detecting the short and reversed polarity.
Next hold the short the output terminals again, this time holding the wire there. The PSX-AR should show a solid lit light where the blinking light was. This indicates a short.
If test case 1 passes, but not test 2 (Zephyr shuts down) then it's likely a current setting on the PSX-AR or a bad PSX-AR.
If test case 1 fails after a couple tries, then it may be a bad PSX-AR
If 1 and 2 pass, then the problem is likely your track wiring. (Although I'm guessing this won't happen, as your Zephyr is shutting down...disconnecting it from the track will make no difference is the PSX-AR isn't shutting off current in time)
9 days later, 4 pages of replies later, 872 views laters, and 56 replies later, with all due respect to BNSF, this could have been resolved long ago.
Lots of good suggestions and advice, most of which seems to be ignored. At this point, we still don't know if it is the PSX-AR or the upper level wiring.
Whatever.
come on Rich: loosen up ,are OP is probably A younger fellow with many prioritys in his lIfe and railroading is just one. he may be (like me ) a bit overwhelmed at technoligy (heck I have a cell phone but still dont really no how to use it ) and who doesnt enjoy a long suspence thriller ! ....remember its all FUN (and I think we all learn somthing here,I do ) Jerry
BIG JERR come on Rich: loosen up ,are OP is probably A younger fellow with many prioritys in his lIfe and railroading is just one. he may be (like me ) a bit overwhelmed at technoligy (heck I have a cell phone but still dont really no how to use it ) and who doesnt enjoy a long suspence thriller ! ....remember its all FUN (and I think we all learn somthing here,I do ) Jerry
Jerry
As Ed McMahon used to say, You are Correct, Sir !
I shall be patient with young BNSF.