Hello All,
Just wondering if anyone uses superelevation on their HO pike?
If you have used this how was it achieved?
Did you elevate the track from the roadbed, elevate the roadbed and track from the base or used superelevated track?
What height did you use; either actual or scale?
And, what did you use to achieve this; shims, curved strips, etc.?
Thank you for your input.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
I prefer not to as I don't want to risk stringlining trains although some do use super-elevation and achieved it as you noted with shims.
It is interesting to note superelevation - I rode Amtrak's California Zephyr from Chicago IL to Sacramento CA and there were spots at times when the train would stop on a superelevated curve to wait for track time, and the angle of the cars was quite pronounced!
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I have super elevation on two curves (40" and 42" radius) on my layout. I use a flex track from P.S.C. that has the super elevation built into the edges of one side of the ties. You have to create your own transition down to normal. I like the visual look. If I had tighter curves I think it could look a little artificial.
Dave Nelson
Someone been reading this month's (May 2015) MRH, which has an article discussing this very topic?
I've got superelevation on two 48" curves. And accompanying easements.
In the part of the curve that is 48" radius, I used .040" shims out at the end of the ties. I figure this gives .030" at the rails. The roadbed was laid flat, incidentally.
The easements are 18" long. There is included in this section a horizontal easement and also a vertical easement, in that I put increasing shims at the tie ends to bring up the rail. I strongly suggest a combined horizontal and vertical easement that is 18" long. Or even longer. I think 12" is tempting fate. And anything shorter won't work. I think.
There have been no derailments on these curves. That includes a 48 car coal train.
I am very happy with the amount of superelevation I used. It's enough to be subconciously noticed, but it's not dramatic. It REALLY makes the curve look "right". And I won't do any more mainline curves that are flat.
Ed
Didn't see the article.
I've been wondering about this subject for a few weeks now and finally got around to posting.
Thanks for the redirect to the article in MRH.
It answered many of my questions.
Again, thanks!
I have superelevation on a few of my wider curves...30"r plus.
From a level roadbed I ran .040" x 1/4" styrene strip beneath the outside rails on the body of the curves which gives about 3.5 scale inches of elevation. It is noticable and hasn't caused any problems. Since my track is nailed to soundboard, I lifted the outside rail/tie, slipped in the styrene, aligned it with track nails then tack glued (white glue) all of it.
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
I added superelevation on almost all of my mainline curves, even though my maximum mainline speed limit is 45mph.
If you use open grid or L-girder benchwork, superelevation is easy to add, including the vertical easements into and out of the curve.I use 3/4" plywood as a sub-roadbed, but any similar-type material, or even spline roadbed should also work. Install the straight roadbed on either side of the curve by fastening the risers to the joists, except for the last riser beyond the ends of the curve. Install risers to the underside of the curved roadbed, but don't fasten them to the benchwork just yet. If your curve is on a grade, as most of mine are, raise the roadbed through the curve to the proper height, then mark a pencil line on each riser which corresponds to the top of the benchwork to which it will eventually be fastened. If the track through the curve is to be level, adjust the risers accordingly, then make the lines. Next, choose the riser closest to the mid-point of the curve, raise it to the proper height, then push the bottom end of the riser towards the outside of the curve. Re-align the height line on the riser so that its inner end corresponds to the top of its benchwork member (the height line will be tilted, with the end on the outside of the curve somewhat above the benchwork). I've found that the best way to establish the amount of superelevation is by placing a train on the curve, then adjusting the off-set of the bottom of the riser until it "looks right". I use a C-clamp while I'm making the visual adjustments, then, when I'm satisfied with the appearance, that mid-point riser is screwed to the benchwork. Because the roadbed is torsionally flexible, each riser on either side of the mid-point will now be off-set from the vertical, to diminishing degrees, as the distance from the mid-point increases. Working from the mid-point of the curve, carefully raise each riser so that the inside end of the height mark aligns with the top of the benchwork to which it will be fastened, making sure to not change the angle of off-set, then screw the risers to the benchwork. This allows the roadbed to form its own easements into and out of the super elevation. I did all of mine with the trackwork in place.
Wayne