Benchwork

[jxtrrx]

I have 1/4" plywood under the foam just to give me something to attach to on the bottom side.

[Anonymous]

Randy - the foam is that strong? Wow. So you're answer to my question is that plywood is overkill? I am curious because many people say they use plywood and foam sub-roadbed (I think I got the terminolgy right). Why wouldn't I just use 2" foam as base and foam for sub-roadbed (assuming I glue track and not nail it)? Wouldn't that be quieter and easier than plywood and foam? I think I saw a recent thread on this but can't find it.
Anyone have thoughts on this?

[rrinker]

My layout is 8x12, four identical 2x8 sections linked at the ends to make a donut shape. Each section is made of 1x4's with cross pieces on 16" centers. Each section has 4 legs, but in reality I could have suspended the two end sections from the other two with no extra legs. In fact, as I plan to expand areoufn the basement, I only intend to put legs on the 'loose' end. Add another section, with a pair of legs at the far end, then add another section, etc. It's plenty strong. Apart from the foam compressing, I could probably stand on it if I had to, and with the cross braces on the legs, it doesn't wobble when you lean against it or try to shake it. In my mind, it's plenty strong and stable to support a model railroad. The top is 2" extruded foam, no plywood anywhere.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

I am very curious about this benchwork stuff guys. I'm not a newbie to Model RR but in the past my layouts have always been small so they were simple plywood on legs style (similar to MrBeasleys but with one large piece of plywood on top). Now I am planning a new 12'x17 layout (as some of you may know), and almost ready to start the benchwork. Question is, what kind?

I was going to just basically use the plywood on L-girder concept for the whole thing. Then, was going to put a thick sheet (2"-4") of foam as a layout base. That way I would get the strength I want (plywood) and still have room to go below grade (2"-4" of foam). Does this seem like serious overkill? I just can't imagine the thought of my whole layout sitting on just girders and foam. I know the foam is really strong and call me an old timer but it is still foam. Has anybody done it my way and how did it work out?

[Anonymous]

I just completed my benchwork. I followed Westcott's teachings to a T. 2 L-girders support joists 16" on center. The legs are inset 2' from either end. Stronger than I could have imagined, solid as a rock, and very lightweight. I think a benefit of having the legs inset is that they seem more capable of supporting the weight of the layout. If the legs are on the corners of a 5' x 8', perhaps the top would be more prone over time to sagging? Just a thought, maybe not. One other consideration too might be how you attach the corner legs. If you add fascia later to the perimeter of your layout, how will you be able to remove the legs without removing the fascia. Again, just a thought. Maybe this won't pose a problem for you.

Mike

[MisterBeasley]

Here's mine from last April. It's 5x12 feet. It's a simple open grid made with 1x4's on the outside, and 1x3 rafters going across. The legs are 2x3's, and the triangular gussets which stabilize the legs are 1/2 inch plywood. There are some 1x2's used for diagonal bracing, one across the main frame, and 2 in an X to hold the side legs in place:



This layout is built for lightness. The base is 2-inch foam, no plywood. It's on casters and rolls around easily on a medium-pile carpet. It's held together with 2-inch drywall screws. I also read the Westcott book, but decided L-girder was overkill for what I was doing. Besides, it did not really address the caster requirement very well.

I've been happy with this simple design. It's low, mostly to get under the 45-degree roof angle of the family room without being too far out from the wall. As I said, it's light enough to push around easily even with the foam, tracks and trains, and it's stable and rigid enough so that nothing shakes much when I roll it around the room.

[IRONROOSTER]

My layout is of the grid type with legs at the corner. I haven't had much problem with kicking the legs. I think that's due to the fact that the layout top is 58" high and I don't stand as close as I would to say a dining room table at 30".
Enjoy
Paul

[fiatfan]

Personally I'm not a fan of open grid. Each of the four tables in my room is made of 16 pieces of wood (two L girders, 4 legs, 4 cross braces and 4 leg braces). I find it very light weight, economical, and easy to assemble.

For the table top, I use the cross members and slap a piece fo Homasote on top. Still very light weight, yet strong enough to hold everything I'm liable to put on the layout.

I would put the legs in from the edge. As Flee307 mentioned, there is no worry about stubbing toes or tripping over the legs.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Tom

[Anonymous]

I dislike them at corners due to stubbing my toes, kicking the bench, and such. I like them inset for that reason. Fred

[Anonymous]

I've been reading How to Build Model Railroad bencwork by Linn Westcott. He recommends moving the legs in away from the edges of the layout and using L girders for the base of the layout above for more stability. I've also been reading Ho Model Railroading Handbook by Robert Schleicher that illustrates building the legs at the corners attached directly to the square(or rectangle)grids. The last layout I built I did put them at the corners but also had a 2x4 running down the middle of a 4x8 section and then attached a 4x6 creating an L (this layout was also grid construction with plywood on top) somewhat of an overkill with all of the 2x4 bracing, I could of danced on that benchwork. I now am building a 5x8 due to space limitations. (is'nt that always the case?) In the future I plan on adding on. Finally the question, should I follow Westcotts advice and move the legs in (basicly a table below the gridwork )or just install them at the corners attaching them directly to the grids? Lotta words for that little question! [:)]