I was going to suggest the same thing as the Lion. Wood bits leave a cleaner hole because they cut from the outer circumference inward, not from the center out.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
PruittBest results are obtained if you sandwich between two pieces of wood,
That's what I was taught in a long-ago "industrial arts" class in 8th and 9th grade. We (all the boys in school) had wood working, metal working, electricity, and mechanical drawing (drafting) and man, now I wish I'd been paying more attention.
I know several women who wished they could have taken "industrial arts" classes but it was strictly a matter of gender back then. The girls by contrast had "home economics" (cooking, sewing, and such) and once I was out of school and lived the life of a bachelor and tried to cook my own dinners and sew on my own buttons and repair torn seams in shirts and pants, I wished I'd taken those classes too!
Dave Nelson
Lion.......
I guess a lot of our forum buddy's never knew to use the proper drill bit for the job.......at least I did not read that anyone recommended a brad point wood bit would be perfect for the job.
Hope You are doing Well.....
Frank
ROARING
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
You could take the tip off a finishing nail, heat the nail, touch it to the point you have marked, two, three, and lift it off. Repeat if necessary. If you char just enough to clear the the bit, you've solved your problem.
Mine were simpler (local control panels, instead of one big one for the whole layout) but same idea, though I used 2 sheets of plexi, and painted the back one with black paint.
The graphics were from a computer program (dunno why I didn;t use my CAD - it would have worked just as well, but I also use Visio a lot for work so I used that). File,Print on the black and white printer to make a drill copy, File,Print to the color printer to make the final copy to sandiwch in the panel. I also used those simple plastic LED bezels to make it look nicer. The toggles go all the way through to the back piece, that's what holds the sandwich together, they aren't glued.
I didn't have one of those plastic bits, but I drilled small pilot holes first, and there is another trick of running the drill backwards to keep the palstic from cracking. Wouldn't be a problem drilling in masonite, just mark and drill. one or two sizes up drill bit, run backwards, to clean up the edges of the holes.
Worked great - until I drilled holes in the top corners to temporarily mount the panel. Notice it cracked in the upper left. The plan was, if they layout got finished, to install a fascia, cut out a square to fit the panel, and mount the panel to the back side of the fascia material, so the corners and the cracked hole would have been hidden anyway.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Mel -- very nice work! I'm amazed at your skill! Even though I will never reach your level, you inspire me to keep at it.
York1 John
hon30critterThe problem I am having is that when I drill the holes for the toggle switches and LEDs the surface of the Masonite and the paper is being torn up a bit. I am using regular twist drills.
If I understand, you are having more problem with the paper being torn. I made panels the same way, using masonite and lexan, with a computer printed paper sandwiched between.
After tearing paper several times, I decided to cut the holes into the paper using a very sharp exacto knife. I really had to take my time. Then I used that paper as a guide, marked the masonite, and cut it. I cleaned up the edges of the holes using the exacto and some sandpaper. I then used the masonite as a guide to drill the holes in the lexan.
By the way, I quit using regular drill bits and used spade bits instead. They cut a much cleaner hole, and did not snag the lexan and crack it.
Finally, all three parts were put together. The paper's exact holes covered over any impurities in the masonite's holes.
This seems like a lot of work, but I am happy with the final result, especially after ruining quite a few sheets of paper and several pieces of lexan, and with quite a few choice adult words muttered.
Good luck!
I have been experimenting with epvc. Comparable price for a 3x5 sheet. Easy to cut and drill. I have worked with lexan and plexiglass and found drilling a bit of challange To get a clean hole. If the bit doesnt wander in the hole. Or snag and snap the plastic. Doesnt seam to matter what bit is used.
Epvc is great for alot of things in the hobby. Control panels are another
Wolfie
A pessimist sees a dark tunnel
An optimist sees the light at the end of the tunnel
A realist sees a frieght train
An engineer sees three idiots standing on the tracks stairing blankly in space
This is why for drilling you use a second copy, not permanently attached to the masonite. Once the holes are drilled and cleaned up on the masonite, punch the holes out on the REAL paper copy and attach it to the masonite.It's next to impossible toi drill through paper without tearing it, so use a second copy and don't worry about it
That's what I did to make the plxiglas panels on my old layout, I printed a B&W plain paper copy.of my panel, used it for a drilling guide, and then reassembled it all with the thicker stock color copy for the final assembly.
PruittClamp the panel onto a piece of scrap wood before you drill. clamp within an inch or so of the hole on both sides, then drill slowly, letting the bit cut the hardboard.
Hi Mark,
Clamping the control panel with wood on either side wouldn't be easy to do. The panels range from about 8" to 24" wide. It would require multiple clamps to hold everything solidly in place, which I don't have. I think I would be further ahead to just find a cleaner cutting drill bit.
Just as a reminder, these panels are temporary. The final panels will probably be made from different materials.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
Clamp the panel onto a piece of scrap wood before you drill. clamp within an inch or so of the hole on both sides, then drill slowly, letting the bit cut the hardboard. Don't use a lot of force. This will reduce chipping on the face, and prevent breakout on the back of the panel.
Best results are obtained if you sandwich between two pieces of wood, but at least use the backer.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Hi mobilman44,
Using an overlay is another option. In fact, I could glue the clear styrene to the panel instead of clamping it. That would seem to be an easier solution.
I'll give it some thought.
Thanks,
Thanks Ed!
I just ordered some decent quality brad point bits from Lee Valley Tools. Their stuff is always top quality. They are the 'go to' guys for the real craftsmen.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=42247&cat=42240
The masonite is actually a temporary solution. Once we have the control panels worked out we will upgrade to Lexan or something similar. I'm hoping that the brad point bits will work with whatever materials we eventually choose too.
The idea of having multiple smaller panels around the layout is intriguing. I'm not sure whether or not it would suit our purposes since the current panel arrangement allows for easy switching at our various sidings and yards. Something to think about.
Thanks as always for your input ED! Our club is definitely further ahead thanks to your expertise!
Try this...........
Get a clear piece of thin styrene and clamp to the board, and then drill. The styrene should hold the paper cover in place and inhibit the drill from ruining it.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I never had much luck with Masonite for the very same reason you mentoin, Dave. It is especially frustrating to get LED indicators to mount as well, even if using the snap-in bezels.
Some of the higher strength Masonite panels such as ones laminated with Melamine seem to be denser and get less "fuzzies" when cut or drilled.
Brad point bits will help and drilling part way through just until the point comes through, then flipping the board over to finish the hole helps, too.
I have eliminated most of my larger panels on the layout opting for smaller controls spaced accordingly around the fascia but the remaining ones are made of polycarbonate (Lexan). It drills and forms easily and does not crack.
My smaller remote panels are actually one and two gang blank faceplates for regular electrical house wiring (also made of Lexan). It drills clean and easy, isn't too thick and will take one of those plastic LED holders nicely.
IMG_0170 by Edmund, on Flickr
IMG_0168 by Edmund, on Flickr
This one, above, doesn't have labels yet.
CP_Union_model by Edmund, on Flickr
This is one of the remaining larger panels I still have.
Brad point drills for the smaller holes and a Forstner bit for the larger ones also works best in Lexan, too. I have a Forstner bit that is 3/8" but I don't recall any that are smaller.
Hope that helps, Ed
Hello gang!!
I am in the process of building the control panels for the club layout. I am using 1/8" Masonite (hardboard?) with a printed diagram glued on top. The problem I am having is that when I drill the holes for the toggle switches and LEDs the surface of the Masonite and the paper is being torn up a bit. I am using regular twist drills. They are almost new and quite sharp, but they are not cutting cleanly.
Any suggestions? Brad point drills? Maybe use a different material for the boards?