You could also use one of the spray bombs with the textured finish. It comes in many different colours so depending on the colour of your ballast you should be able to find a close match.
Scott
dknelson I tried this when installing some of the Peco turnouts on my layout. I put a piece of black duct tape underneath the ties starting to the throwbar to the end of the points. The duct tape thus has its sticky side facing up. I trim the edges to be even with the ends of the ties. I put just enough ballast on the sticky part of the tape to hold (perhaps tamping it in with a Q tip) so the tape is completely covered.
I tried this when installing some of the Peco turnouts on my layout. I put a piece of black duct tape underneath the ties starting to the throwbar to the end of the points. The duct tape thus has its sticky side facing up. I trim the edges to be even with the ends of the ties. I put just enough ballast on the sticky part of the tape to hold (perhaps tamping it in with a Q tip) so the tape is completely covered.
How permanent is this solution? I understand that duct tape uses a very strong water resistant adhesive. Doesn't it age over time, however, and lose its tackiness?
Andreas
Thanks, everyone, for the numerous great suggestions. I am using FastTracks templates and tools to build the turnouts but even though I'm not using their jigs, I can't build them in place and so ballasting before wouldn't work (and anyway, I have completed building all turnouts). Saran wrap could work although pulling it under the point rails might be tricky. I particularly like Rich's suggestion to use a few drops of oil. Would Labelle 108 work? In any case, I'll try both.
http://www.harlemrivercrossways.com/
I tried this when installing some of the Peco turnouts on my layout. I put a piece of black duct tape underneath the ties starting to the throwbar to the end of the points. The duct tape thus has its sticky side facing up. I trim the edges to be even with the ends of the ties. I put just enough ballast on the sticky part of the tape to hold (perhaps tamping it in with a Q tip) so the tape is completely covered. The ballast is lower than the ballast on the rest of the turnout (and rest of the track) but the turnout is ballasted and looks ballasted and the ballast does not interfere with the movement of the points or the throwbar. Only beneath the throwbar is there no ballast.
Dave Nelson
I do similar to Rich, applying plastic-compatible oil to the tops of the ties over which the points move, and then parking the points at mid-throw before misting with wet water and applying the diluted white glue.
Wayne
I apply a few drops of Medium Oil to the hinges on the point rails and on the contact surfaces of the point rails. Same for the throwbar. Oil and water do not mix!
Rich
Alton Junction
I am guessing that you are using a jig to make the turnouts. If not, you might try building the turnout in place (Tony Koester did a video on MRVP). If you build it in place, you can ballast before installing rail, eliminating the need to protect anything. Just a thought.
I constructed a working #4 turnout using this method. I laid out the ties using Fast Tracks paper template. I used their Point form tool, Stock aid and Frog helper to make the turnout. I did not use any copper ties (except throwbar). Just NMRA guage and spikes.
selector You could also place some plastic sandwich wrap under the throwbar and points and pull it out after the glued ballast has set nearby.
You could also place some plastic sandwich wrap under the throwbar and points and pull it out after the glued ballast has set nearby.
I just cover those places with strips of masking tape. You could also place some plastic sandwich wrap under the throwbar and points and pull it out after the glued ballast has set nearby.
I was wondering if there's a smart way in protecting point rails and the throwbar of turnouts from getting glued to their roadbed when ballasting. Even if I use a surgical method to apply ballast, isopropyl alcohol and scenic cement (or diluted PVA glue) around turnouts, I cannot always avoid glue getting into the wrong place. I'm working with N scale hand-laid (code 55) track and turnouts, and not to ballast is not an option for me. Does anyone know of a trick, like for instance using a hydrophobic medium to make sure the PVA glue stays away from critical parts? It would have to be something that can be easily removed after the ballasting, so vaseline would not be a good idea. Likewise, solder fluid wouldn't work either as burning it away at the end could harm the soldering. Any ideas?