michaelrose55 richhotrain What's the radius of that curve? Rich That curve has my minimum radius for tunnel track which is 15" (381 mm).
richhotrain What's the radius of that curve? Rich
What's the radius of that curve?
Rich
That curve has my minimum radius for tunnel track which is 15" (381 mm).
Alton Junction
Michael
The Breitenbach - Rosenheim Railroad V3
Here comes the Barnesville passenger station:
I'm using Atlas C55 and yes, I am using low profile metal wheels on everything.
Are you using Atlas, ME or PECO c55 track/turnouts?
I also presume you've replaced all your wheels with low profile ones?
Thanks!
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Typical mistakes in N scale?
- using code 80 rail
- using tight curves
- using short turnouts
- spacing track centers too far apart
- using compressed structures
Many people think because N is so much smaller they should cram so much more railroad into that space. They use tight curves because it's possible. Looks terrible.
My minimum visible radius is 800mm which would be fine for H0! I use 27mm track spacing which looks prototypical. I use code 55 rail (would love to use code 40 but there's too much involved). My structures have close to real world dimensions.
In general I use big scenes with not too much railroad in them to get a feel of the real thing.
And no, I won't be able to help you build yours !
michaelrose55N scale these days can look as good as H0. If you are careful and avoid the typical mistakes at least...
What are these "typical" mistakes to avoid?
Also, next week when you finish your layout, could you come over and build mine, too?
In preparation for the next (and last!) batch of new roadbed I have cleaned the area where Barnesville and the Barnesville yard will come to life, starting tomorrow.
Randy,
N scale these days can look as good as H0. If you are careful and avoid the typical mistakes at least...
I was going to mention the same sort of thing - in the pictures from Sunday with the track just stretching out, it could have been any scale (naturally I thought it looked like HO). The track doesn't have that old N scale giveaway of really tall rail, and there's nothing in those picture to give a sense of scale. That's quite an accomplishment that the scale is not readily discernable without some external object for reference.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I have given the abutments another wash with the alcohol/india ink mix, then applied zip texture as mortar, and sealed everything with thinned white glue.
A member of another forum mentioned that he has problems imagining the size of all this because it's N scale so I promised I would add my thumb to my next post to put it all in perspective...
I've added four layers of paint:
Adding a bit of texture:
I spent the morning designing & building bridge abutments:
rrinker Hmm, since your software should allow you to alter the pattern easily enough, you should come up with a reason to make one of the stone bridges a 'skew' bridge. Like this one https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skew_Arch_Bridge_(Reading,_Pennsylvania) Simply because they look neat and interesting. And because you have a laser cutter that can engrave the pattern pretty easily. --Randy
Hmm, since your software should allow you to alter the pattern easily enough, you should come up with a reason to make one of the stone bridges a 'skew' bridge. Like this one
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skew_Arch_Bridge_(Reading,_Pennsylvania)
Simply because they look neat and interesting. And because you have a laser cutter that can engrave the pattern pretty easily.
That's not a bad idea, certainly looks different!
I'm making bridges again:
When Con-Cor released the M-10000 in 2009 we had just moved from Germany back to the US and I was in the planning stage of the first G&AM. At this time I had no idea what kind of motive power I would end up with and so I completely missed this magnificent train. Later when became aware of the model they were sold out everywhere.
Two weeks ago Con-Cor sent me an email about several trade show samples of trains and passenger cars that they tested and were offering at a reduced price. I instantly ordered the M-10000 .
Today it arrived and it looks as good as new. I will have to find a dcc decoder to plug in and then it can run in passenger service on the G&AM!
TrainzLuvr I think he meant white coats and a "suit with straps" :D
I think he meant white coats and a "suit with straps" :D
Yessssss!
Professional help? I think even a fast working professional like Pelle Soeberg would just slow you down.
There must be something in the water you are drinking that's giving you the energy and drive to accomplish all these things so fast.
So next time you are at the tap getting a glass, please bottle some and send over! :)
The sky is all blue and the roadbed has reached the very end of the benchwork:
During my lunch break I couldn't resist cutting the subroadbed and installing the bridge. Maybe I need professional help...?
I came in early this morning and gave the background a coat of blue paint. That can dry now while I'm at work...
The bridge is almost completely dry after getting the mortar lines filled and sealed this morning.
I sanded the background and put on the first coat of primer:
@Rich, @Randy: Somebody around here HAS to set a benchmark...
hon30critter michaelrose55 Tomorrow there will be another wash with alcohol & india ink, then I will fill the mortar lines. Michael: Do you really need to fill the mortar lines? I think it looks great just the way it is. To me it suggests a structure that has been exposed to pollution for many years. I can hardly see the seams, and I can't tell how deep the mortar lines actually are so if they are too deep I guess you are obliged to fill them. Great work by the way! Dave
michaelrose55 Tomorrow there will be another wash with alcohol & india ink, then I will fill the mortar lines.
Michael:
Do you really need to fill the mortar lines? I think it looks great just the way it is. To me it suggests a structure that has been exposed to pollution for many years. I can hardly see the seams, and I can't tell how deep the mortar lines actually are so if they are too deep I guess you are obliged to fill them.
Great work by the way!
Dave
Dave,
I make the mortar lines pretty deep because I really like to fill them. I use a mix of plaster and dry paint pigments as mortar which looks pretty much like the real thing. In my opinion it improves the looks of any wall.