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flex track and signals

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  • Member since
    February 2008
  • 2,360 posts
Posted by kasskaboose on Monday, December 21, 2015 1:09 PM

Others posted about the most effective way of mounting flex track.  I use 2" foam with cork above that secure using white glue.  The track is secure with Micro Engeering nails after I used long shirt pins to run the loco to ensure there weren't derailments.

For wiring, can you pls send a pic?  I use labels and different color wires.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Monday, December 21, 2015 11:57 AM

Welcome
I’m with Rick.  I didn’t glue down my track and I didn’t use foam board.  I went with cork roadbed on plywood, I’m from the old school long before foam board.  When I had finished laying track and operated my layout for enough time that I was sure I had everything right I used the ballasting glue to anchor the track in place.  I used regular track nails to hold the track in place until after I had finished ballasting then removed the track nails.
 
As for wiring I use telephone frame wire for all my signals and lighting on my layout.  I bought #22 gauge in 2, 4 and 6 pair and run it in telephone frame “D” rings under the outside edge of my layout.  I’m not a telephone guy but the TELCOs do have it right for running multiple wires, it’s easy and fast to install or maintain later.  The wire comes in multiple colors so it’s easy to work with and organize.
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: NW Pa Snow-belt.
  • 2,216 posts
Posted by ricktrains4824 on Monday, December 21, 2015 10:25 AM

7j43k

I think your flextrack is moving around because you're not putting it down right.

I don't put track on foam.  BUT.  From what I've seen you glue it down.  You DO NOT nail it down (without glue).  First you glue the roadbed down.  Then you glue the track to the roadbed.  And you DO NOT glue the switches down.  Someone who knows more about this will likely help you out.

Not entirely true... My last layout, blue foam, had flex track tacked down with straight pins (think sewing) and zero glue. Held extremely well. Only glued sections were where I got ballasting completed. 

Track nails are shorter... That appears to be the reason from my experience.

(However, most recommend using some kind of adhesive. Once you are satisfied with placement, you can, and probably should, glue it into place. If you use minimum glue, it can be worked back off. Especially if you use something like latex caulking, thinly applied. I do have some experience with that as well, and, when done correctly, track can be removed later on, and reused.)

Wiring signals - My only signals I had gotten in, were wired in with Digitrax components. Signal went to adapter board just under layout, then cable kit to SE8C. So, I cannot be of help here.

Ricky W.

HO scale Proto-freelancer.

My Railroad rules:

1: It's my railroad, my rules.

2: It's for having fun and enjoyment.

3: Any objections, consult above rules.

jfb
  • Member since
    December 2015
  • 145 posts
Posted by jfb on Monday, December 21, 2015 9:59 AM

I forgot to add this also. I built flipdowns and need to know what is the best proven way to secure tracks after cutting for proper board alignment and track alignment the tracks still move even with track nails. I also used nailed down computer circuit board under them that is also glued down for electrical conductivity purposes. the tracks meet on them and i have taken of a few ties to expose the rails.

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • 7,500 posts
Posted by 7j43k on Monday, December 21, 2015 9:58 AM

I think your flextrack is moving around because you're not putting it down right.

I don't put track on foam.  BUT.  From what I've seen you glue it down.  You DO NOT nail it down (without glue).  First you glue the roadbed down.  Then you glue the track to the roadbed.  And you DO NOT glue the switches down.  Someone who knows more about this will likely help you out.

It is AWFUL to fix glued track later (I think).  So don't make any mistakes when you glue it down.

Wiring problem:  So it sounds like you've got a whole lot of spaghetti looking wiring and it's ugly.  And it's hard to figure out and work on later.

Look at pictures.  See what they do.  Copy their ideas, or think of your own.  Maybe get a layout wiring book.

 

Ed

jfb
  • Member since
    December 2015
  • 145 posts
Posted by jfb on Monday, December 21, 2015 9:47 AM

jfb

what is the best way to mount flex track without binding on insulation and how do you wire signals and avoid the spaghetti situation my wires are separated and run to the control board individually I do not want shorts or have to re-wire them.       what  i am saying is that even after nailing or gluing on insulation is that the flex track with spring action kinks and also kinks swithces etc around it.  I have never before had this issue so it must be in newer tracks and it is cut to proper size also. I do not want derailment points in the future. 2. after extending m------p---r wires do the signals work properly and is there a right or wrong way to re-wire them..3 what nails today will secure flex track to corning pink insulation the older track nails worked before and i have to buy new ones and they are the same length etc but work rather lousy. 3 I am avoiding wire issues also but even after sheathing them my solid strand telephone wiring runs toghether and is hard to seperate or diagnos when needed so what is a good suggestion to avoid shorts and all of my wires run individually to my control board inside wire looms.

 

jfb
  • Member since
    December 2015
  • 145 posts
flex track and signals
Posted by jfb on Sunday, December 20, 2015 1:55 PM

what is the best way to mount flex track without binding on insulation and how do you wire signals and avoid the spaghetti situation my wires are separated and run to the control board individually I do not want shorts or have to re-wire them.

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