Onewolf:
I love the nice neat wiring arrangements! I'm sure things will get more complex as you install the turnout busses etc. but you are certainly off to a good start on the electrics.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
All the track for the lower return loop and staging tracks has been installed. Now I need to install track feeders and connect them to the track power bus.
Each of the 6 loops of track is an occupancy zone and each of the 2 turnout ladders is an occupancy zone so there are 8 track sub-bus wire pairs. I ran out of combinations with a white wire so I ended up using a blue/silver wire as #8.
The lower level reverse loop and staging track have been wired for DCC track power (22ga track feeders and 12ga sub-bus) and tested with 3 locomotives. I have also begun to work on the DCC infrastructure in order to test the track installation.
The next step is to install the Tortoise motors to drive the turnouts and the NCE Switch-8 + button board to control the Tortoises. I will also be installing the RR-Cirkits BOD-8 and FOB-A boards to handle the occupancy zone detection and LED status display.
This is the 'remote' booster #2 which provides track power for the lower return loop and staging tracks. The lower return loop is driven by a DCC Specialties PSX-AR to handle the reversing nature of the return loop. Booster #2 will also drive a DCC Specialties PSX-4 which will eventually handle 4 other track power districts.
This is the main layout power/control station. The Digitrax DCS-100 which is main 'brain' of the DCC system is located here along with two Digitrax DB-150 boosters. The DCS-100 will not be used to power any track. One DB-150 will provide power/control for all the turnouts on the layout and the other DB-150 will drive a DCC Specialties PSX-4 and power/control 4 power districts. There are also four 20AMP 12v power supplies which power the lower/middle level layout LED lightstrips.
I'm using a Digitrax PS2012 to provide power for the DCS-100, and two DB-150 boosters. Booster #1 will be connected to the PSX-4 in the top left corner to provide DCC track power for 4 power districts. The turnout control booster will be connected to a power bus that will power/control all the turnouts (~100) on the layout.
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
Hi all
Well boys and girls I think we have all been well and truly shown up.
That is fantastic work well thought out and well executed work.
Bet your glad you can now see the beginings of a railway as well even if there is still a long way to go.
It won't seem so far now.
regards John
Onewolf ATLANTIC CENTRAL Are you planning to use any kind of roadbed effect on the visable trackage? I notice the the stagging trackage you have posted so far is directly on flat homasote. Curve radius - sounds like you will have a very nice layout in this regard, but personally I would not go below the 32/34 inch radius range even for hidden trackage. In the past I've used cork roadbed, but I'm going to try WS 3/16" foam on this layout. If that doesn't go well I will revert to using cork roadbed for at least the mainline. As far as curve radius, with the exception of the Walthers HW passengers cars all my rolling stock functioned fine with 24" radius curves on previous layout so I'm not worried about the 26.75" and 29" radius curves on the lower return staging tracks.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL Are you planning to use any kind of roadbed effect on the visable trackage? I notice the the stagging trackage you have posted so far is directly on flat homasote. Curve radius - sounds like you will have a very nice layout in this regard, but personally I would not go below the 32/34 inch radius range even for hidden trackage.
Are you planning to use any kind of roadbed effect on the visable trackage? I notice the the stagging trackage you have posted so far is directly on flat homasote.
Curve radius - sounds like you will have a very nice layout in this regard, but personally I would not go below the 32/34 inch radius range even for hidden trackage.
In the past I've used cork roadbed, but I'm going to try WS 3/16" foam on this layout. If that doesn't go well I will revert to using cork roadbed for at least the mainline.
As far as curve radius, with the exception of the Walthers HW passengers cars all my rolling stock functioned fine with 24" radius curves on previous layout so I'm not worried about the 26.75" and 29" radius curves on the lower return staging tracks.
Have you considered Homabed:
http://www.calroadbed.com/site/890800/
I understand about the radius issue. I'm big on close coupling and working diaphrams that stay touching, so I like to stay a little larger qith the curves.
Sheldon
First, let me say to OneWolf, you are doing a fantastic job, well done.
I do have a couple comments and questions.
Thanks for sharing your layout progress - while I have not commented much, I have been following your thread - again very nice work.
This is really well planned out, nice start.
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Well, it's always good to be able to handle brass in case you end up with any!
Should be fascinating to see it with rolling stock in action for UP in the late 1950's but I can see how it would be extremely tempting to slip into the 1960's, especially if anyone makes a good quality DD35 A and B unit I've got a book called Colorful Colorado Railroads in the 1960's and it's got some very cool shots of UP trains with interesting lashups of DD's with GP30's etc and of course F units mixed in!
Of course judging by everything you've show, it's evident you've put a lot of thought into every engineering aspect of it!
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 Well, if you have a number of larger radius in that return loop, you can always route trains through it if they have rolling stock which are sensitive to lower radius curves - which can be the case especially for some brass items. Sounds like over all you should have some visually decent curves then. Remind me what time period you are modeling. UP in Ogden should be very cool - myself being a fan of western modeling and D&RGW had friendly connections in Utah on the west end.
Well, if you have a number of larger radius in that return loop, you can always route trains through it if they have rolling stock which are sensitive to lower radius curves - which can be the case especially for some brass items. Sounds like over all you should have some visually decent curves then.
Remind me what time period you are modeling. UP in Ogden should be very cool - myself being a fan of western modeling and D&RGW had friendly connections in Utah on the west end.
OnewolfI have been testing the track with some Walthers HW Pullmann passenger cars because they are the only rolling stock I own that would not work on the old layout (which had 24" radius curves).
While I don't think you will have a problem with the eased curves you are using, I have found that the best was to test is to make a train with your shortest car in between 2 of your longest cars. Two long cars will have the same swing of the coupler away from the center line of the track. Problems occur when cars with a different swing are coupled together. Got a 34' hopper you can put between 2 of those HW's?
I have the right to remain silent. By posting here I have given up that right and accept that anything I say can and will be used as evidence to critique me.
Minimum radius on visible track is 36" however 95% of curves are 40+" radius. The two 'inside' loops on the lower return loop are 26.75" and 29" and the inside loop on the upper return loop is 29.75". All other hidden track has a minimum 30+" radius.
The radius of the lower return loops was limited by the width/depth of the 'blob'. I _could_ have reduced the number of staging track loops but I decided I would rather have the two 'extra' staging tracks even though they have radius less than 30".
Awesome. Building what most of us would call a dream layout!
Looks like your mininum radius is just shy of 27 inches? I'd guess that should handle most long equipment ok. For the size was 30" minimum not doable?
Nice to be getting some track down eh? Expect next you'll not be able to resist putting some trains on the rail and running them around - you know, shake down is needed in the early stages. I just finally go a bunch of drops from my tiny little yard down to the electrical bus and was running some trains around - did a little switching. Woo.
I'm starting to lay the track for the lower return loop and 5 staging tracks. Most of this track will eventually be hidden under a city (or behind the city's backdrop). The track is Atlas code 100 super flex track and it's very easy to work with. The turnouts are Peco code 100 insulfrog 'large' and they will be driven with Tortoise motors and NCE Switch-it MK2 decoders (with facia toggle switches). At this point I'm waiting for an order of additional Atlas rerailer track sections from MB-Klein before I can finish the track.
The inside loop is 26.75" radius (with easements) and the outside loop is 38" radius. I have been testing the track with some Walthers HW Pullmann passenger cars because they are the only rolling stock I own that would not work on the old layout (which had 24" radius curves).
The double track mainline that enters the lower return loop:
It's great to finally be laying track after all this time....
Thanks for the info on the 2835 LED strips.
If money is a problem, you can do the upper level in track lighting which can be very cheap if you know the secrets. One being that all the heads made 30 years ago still work with the stuff sold today if you buy the right track like the one HD sells. The trick comes from the fact that the names of the players have changed over the years but the base is the same. I had to settle for brass housings for mine as they were $1.67 each over white at around $7 at the time I needed them. Of course to make this all work you need to screw in CFL's or LED's and the end needs to be a plug in so that it not considered as house wiring (because some less than intelignt persone might try to use standard light bulbs).
carl425 So why not build a valance and use the same LED strips?
So why not build a valance and use the same LED strips?
Thanks for the quick reply.
It _may_ be feasible to build a valance and use LED strip lights for the upper level however an issue I am concerned about is that I would would not want the valance to drop more than about 6" from the ceiling and I'm not sure the LED strip lights would provide enough light output when they are 30"-36" above the layout (IMO, currently the two strips of 2835 LEDs are marginal where they are only 17"-18" above the lower benchwork.)
This issue is even more magnified trying to light the middle and lower levels where there is no shelf/benchwork above because I don't want a valence blocking the long stretch (70 ft) of middle level where the mountain/canyon/backdrop goes from the 62" elevation all the way to the ceiling at 120" elevation. Track lighting would really shine (haha) for that application.
OnewolfEach 7w cool white LED fixture puts around 600 lumen (claimed).
I had halogen track lights in my office that were great - except for the heat. I ordered a bunch of the LED replacements that fell far short of the specified light output. Hopefully they have improved in the last year or two.
OnewolfFor the purposes of model photography I need a lot of light.
Based on my extensive experience as a wannabe photographer , you will want far more light for good protographs than the normal display lighting will provide. I'd plan on using supplemental lighting for photos and not take that into consideration on your standard lighting.
I made a very quick SWAG at how I could configure track lighting to light the upper level and lower/middle level areas that are not lit using the LED strip lights. I assumed 3 foot tracks with (generally) three 7watt LED fixtures per track. Several tracks have four light fixtures. Each 7w cool white LED fixture puts around 600 lumen (claimed). This results in 29 tracks and about 90 7w LED light fixtures. For the purposes of model photography I need a lot of light. I have ordered a single 3ft track and a couple of the 7w LED light fixtures to see how much light they really put out to determine if this lighting plan is complete BS or not. The discretionary layout budget does not currently have funding for this large $ outlay so room lighting will continue to be used for the time being.
hon30critter Onewolf: Can I ask you specifically which LED lighting strips you used? I'm in the planning/acquisition stages for my layout right now. Edit: Found my answer in your earlier post. Dave
Can I ask you specifically which LED lighting strips you used? I'm in the planning/acquisition stages for my layout right now.
Edit: Found my answer in your earlier post.
Dave, I purchased the LED strips from seller 'movsun' on E-bay. I have purchased numerous items from them with no issues ever. The LED strip lights I use are 2835 SMD, cool white, non waterproof. I also bought six 20AMP 12V power supplies from them as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5M-3528-5050-2835-3014-5630-300-600-1200LEDs-Flexible-Strip-Light-Non-Waterproof-/221497114292
I finished building the steel bracket that supports the middle level benchwork where the mainline nolix crosses over the aisle as it heads up to the upper level. I have also started cutting and dry placing the 3/4" plywood subroadbed for the lower return loop and staging tracks that will be hidden under the city (Ogden). Once I am happy with the layout of subroadbed before screwing it down I will use it as templates to cut 1/2 homasote roadbed. This task has also forced me to figure out exactly how I am going to support the plywood base of the city above the hidden return loop (as well as how the detachable backdrop behind the 42" deep high rise city scene will be built/installed).
This benchwork projects 48" from the wall and the top of the 1x3 benchwork is 77.5" elevation.
A better view of the lower return loop subroadbed. You can also see the PVC conduit I grudgingly installed. I also installed a conduit over the door to allow me a shorter run for electrical cables/busses as an alternative to going all the way around the outside of the room. I considered trying to run the conduit inside the wall but this wall is a load bearing wall (with lots of extra blocking), it has all the plumbing for the bathroom, and it has a bunch of electrical. So I took the ugly path of less resistance.
I finished installing the layout lighting LED strips that light the lower level. Note the "start climb" notation on the left. This is the point where the middle level nolix starts the 2.0% climb up to the upper level. The Nolix follows three of the room walls as it climbs from 62" to 82".
A couple shots showing the newly installed lower level LED layout lighting sections with the room lights turned off.
NICE. For a good craftsman. Not at all something that a LION would build. LIONS have not the patience or other resources. LION has different standards.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
It's been too long since I updated this build thread so here's my end of the year update....
I installed an 8ft length of the LED strip lights I have planned to use for the lower and middle level layout lighting. It's two parallel strips of 2835 LEDs (60/meter). They didn't put out quite as much light as I was hoping. This was a test of both the LED strip lights (mounted at 30 deg from horizontal) and a test of the backdrop paint colors. However later I noticed the 20AMP 12V power supply I was using was only putting out 11.4 volts and it had a switch to change between 220v and 110v AC input and it was set to default 220v input. After switching it to 110v input the power supply put out 12.4v and the LED lights became much brighter.
I also worked on closing in the upper level wings by building the 'walls' that drop from the ceiling and mounting the 1/8" masonite backdrop on the inside.
My original goal was to have all the basic benchwork completed and the lower/upper return loops and helix track installed and functioning by the end of 2015, but that didn't happen. I have completed 98%+ the benchwork and I also installed most of the lower/middle level lighting. I have started construction of the large steel bracket that will support the middle level 1x3 benchwork above the city where the middle level nolix track crosses the aisle and heads up into the upper level. The piece of wood crossing the aisle shows the planned relative height of the track crossing the aisle. I have ordered a 96" long 3" wide by 1.5" tall steel A-36 U channel which will be used to simulate a (long) plate girder bridge to span across the aisle.
The middle level will have a 'nolix' along the outside wall to climb (2.0% grade) from 62" to the upper level 82" elevation. The track will be climbing along this stretch of middle level benchwork until it's about 14-15" above the benchwork.
I have also completed the 1x4 benchwork in the upper level 'wings'.
You can see the LED light strips I am using the light the lower/middle levels. I am using 2835 LED strips and I mount 2 rows of LEDs to 30 and 40 degree wood mounts that I rip from 2x4 studs. I then apply a coat of laminate contact cement to the surface where the LED strips will be applied after the contact cement dries. Each 2x4 creates 4 mount pieces. The yellow/orange 12GA wire is the LED lighting power bus. I am using four 20AMP 12V power supplies to power the lower/middle level LED lighting buses.
The basic layout of the tracks along the main division yard on the 1/2" homasote. I will be sealing/painting the homasote soon. I cut the homasote using a track saw with a shop vac attached and it produced extremely clean cuts and almost no dust.
There was a single 4ft dual T32 fluorescent fixture on the ceiling here which was not providing enough light so I replaced it with an 8ft quad T32 fixture which provides much better room lighting (although it really overpowers the LED layout lighting).
In areas where the middle level is built with 5/8" plywood and 3/4" foam and supported by Closetmaid 16" shelf brackets I have to run the power buses wires over the shelf brackets. Ugh. In areas where the benchwork is 1x3 or 1x4 open grid I can run the bus wires through the benchwork boards (much better).
The entrances to/exits from the helix will go through the 1/8" backdrop on the left in both the lower and middle levels.
This is what the LED lighting mounts looks like before installation. I wire the two LED strips together so it needs only one power connection.
The LED light strip power connection. I use Scotchlok 'suitcase' connectors to connect to the 12V LED layout lighting bus wires.
When the room lighting is turned off it looks like this. For the time being I am going to depend upon the room lighting to light the upper level and the middle level areas with no upper level above them. I also need to work on the uneven light levels produced by the room lights versus the layout LED lights.
riogrande5761 I might have missed it but what is the grade on your no-lix to gain elevation? The nolix grade is 1.85% (20" rise over 90 ft). This is the steepest grade on the layout. The helix is 1.6% (outside track) and 1.7% (inside track).
I might have missed it but what is the grade on your no-lix to gain elevation?
The nolix grade is 1.85% (20" rise over 90 ft). This is the steepest grade on the layout. The helix is 1.6% (outside track) and 1.7% (inside track).
Are you going to invite George Sellios and Rod Stewart for the grand opening. I see this making a story in Model Railroader Magazine.
Yes, it's a mushroom design. The upper level is viewed from inside the center platform. It has been quite challenging building something in the "real world" that was relatively easy (albeit tedious and time consuming) to design using 3rdPlanIt CAD software. I have already built and then rebuilt numerous areas.
Thats definitely not what you call a "starter" layout or something folks would recommend for a beginner, or even someone who has been planning to build a layout for years, but never actually did!
Is that a mushroom type layout? Definitely Kahn from the 2nd Star Treck movie would have trouble with it cause Kirk was able to beat him in battle due to his 2-dimensional thinking. hah hah.
We need a "Jealous" smiley. You are doing a great job on a project most of us could only dream of.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.