He's using Digitrax. Mini panel connects to NCE cab bus. With NCE the mini panel would be a good option.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Since the Switch-8 and Switch-It don;t do routes,
Since the Switch-8 and Switch-It don;t do routes,
Rich
Alton Junction
Since the Switch-8 and Switch-It don;t do routes, you'd have to get a Loconet input device, such as LocoIO for DIY or something like the Team Digital CSC - which would actually repalce those NCE devices, since it has DCC accessory control of up to 16 Tortoises PLUS 16 inputs for pushbuttons, or the RR-CirKits TowerMan. The buttons would bet attached to these devices and then depending on the device, when you push the button for track 3 Exit, it would set the corresponding outputs to operate each Tortoise needed to line Track 3 with the main, or it would send Loconet commands which would then go out as DCC commands to the addresses defined in the Switch-8 and Switch-It. That's the 'Elegant' way to do it if you still need DCC control of those Tortoise motors - but insteadof all those wires connecting the panel to the Switch-8 Button Board, you'd just have a Loconet cable, and only the DCC bus would be connected to the NCE units (plus the wires out to the Tortoises of course).
If you don't need DCC control of the staging turnouts, you cna use a rotary switch to select the track (2 total, one for entrance, one for exit) and cascade the Tortoises throught he contacts or take a look at the article on "Dendratic COntrol" in MR a couple of years ago, or you can use a diode matrix with a rotary switch.
Choops I would agree that each end is independant. That is how mine is going to work. Each end has route control. Will be difficult and tiresom to align the switches vs. just select a track. Steve
I would agree that each end is independant. That is how mine is going to work. Each end has route control. Will be difficult and tiresom to align the switches vs. just select a track.
Steve
Modeling an HO gauge freelance version of the Union Pacific Oregon Short Line and the Utah Railway around 1957 in a world where Pirates from the Great Salt Lake founded Ogden, UT.
- Photo album of layout construction -
Onewolf Choops You should set up the switches for automatic routing. You select the track and all the switches align for that track. Looks great so far. Steve I had a message thread about whether the front panel buttons should control both ends of the staging tracks or a single end and the consensus was that controlling each end independently was a better solution. Trains will normally 'arrive' into the return loop/staging on the inside (eastbound) mainline and depart on the outside (westbound) mainline so having independent turnout controls allows trains to arrive and depart staging at the same time. Since the turnouts can be controlled via control panel buttons and/or DCC throttle and/or computer control I can always configure macros to throw both ends of a staging track if desired (or control a 'path' into a particular staging track).
Choops You should set up the switches for automatic routing. You select the track and all the switches align for that track. Looks great so far. Steve
You should set up the switches for automatic routing. You select the track and all the switches align for that track.
Looks great so far.
I had a message thread about whether the front panel buttons should control both ends of the staging tracks or a single end and the consensus was that controlling each end independently was a better solution. Trains will normally 'arrive' into the return loop/staging on the inside (eastbound) mainline and depart on the outside (westbound) mainline so having independent turnout controls allows trains to arrive and depart staging at the same time. Since the turnouts can be controlled via control panel buttons and/or DCC throttle and/or computer control I can always configure macros to throw both ends of a staging track if desired (or control a 'path' into a particular staging track).
wickman I must say you are very meticulous. Your wife is probably right. Will your layout be of flat character or will we see some adventurous terrain go in to the mix?
I must say you are very meticulous. Your wife is probably right.
Will your layout be of flat character or will we see some adventurous terrain go in to the mix?
The 70 ft long nolix section where the middle level climbs from 62" to 80" (and then up to 82") will be along a canyon wall with the terrain starting at around 60" high and going up to about 100" (the room has a 10ft ceiling). In my mind it will be a spectacular LDE. We shall see....
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
My wife will say the same soon. We are cleaning out a corner of the basement for my layout as i am just starting the hobby and I am already rejecting a cobbled up design of re-purposed cabinets to "hide" the extra tools and train stuff.
tedtedderson One thing I've noticed is how neat and cleaned up your workspace is kept. I'm sure that's contributed to your success. My "retentiveness" would be at ease at your place. Great work. T e d
One thing I've noticed is how neat and cleaned up your workspace is kept. I'm sure that's contributed to your success. My "retentiveness" would be at ease at your place. Great work.
T e d
My wife would like to know why my standard for cleanliness/orderliness is so much higher in my workshop than in our house.
I have finished installing/wiring the 10 Tortoises for the lower return loop staging track turnouts. The turnouts are controlled using an NCE Switch-8 mk2 (8 turnouts) and an NCE Switch-it (2 turnouts). There is a toggle button and a bicolor red/green LED on the (mockup) control panel for each turnout (green=closed, red=thrown).
One wolf-
I am inspired. I want a "train-set" like that therefore I've gone back to college.
Lone Wolf and Santa Fe Your layout looks really great so far. I’m sure it is going to be amazing when it is finished. It is a good idea to keep all of your wiring as neat as possible, for trouble shooting later and just for looks right now. You built a whole new building, keep it nice and neat. Anyway I was wondering what you are going to do for backdrops and at what stage are you going to do it. Is it going to be painted sky or the picture poster banner type?
Your layout looks really great so far. I’m sure it is going to be amazing when it is finished. It is a good idea to keep all of your wiring as neat as possible, for trouble shooting later and just for looks right now. You built a whole new building, keep it nice and neat.
Anyway I was wondering what you are going to do for backdrops and at what stage are you going to do it. Is it going to be painted sky or the picture poster banner type?
I would really put 5 amp breakers or PTC fuses on each of those lines to the 3 boosters, oherwise a fault could result in al 20 amps from the PS2012 hitting one of the boosters, which is a LOT of heat and will certainly turn what might be a minor fault into a comletely blown up booster. That Y cable that came with the PS2012 has 2 of them, you can either order another Y cable from Digitrax and get another or buy some others from elsewhere. --Randy
I would really put 5 amp breakers or PTC fuses on each of those lines to the 3 boosters, oherwise a fault could result in al 20 amps from the PS2012 hitting one of the boosters, which is a LOT of heat and will certainly turn what might be a minor fault into a comletely blown up booster. That Y cable that came with the PS2012 has 2 of them, you can either order another Y cable from Digitrax and get another or buy some others from elsewhere.
I tried using the Y cable that comes with the PS2012 but it was way too inflexible to work for me so I ordered another ATO/ATC fuse block that should arrive tomorrow (love Amazon Prime and they love me).
mobilman44 The obvious one is "what is your day job?" My guess is general contractor, but what do I know?
The obvious one is "what is your day job?" My guess is general contractor, but what do I know?
I'm a Technical Director/Architect for a very large commercial software company. I've worked here for about 25 years.
Are you modeling a particular time, place, road?
Freelance version of Union Pacific OSL north/west from Ogden, Utah around 1956. In my freelance world Utah Railway shares trackage rights with UP in this area as well (versus the reality during the 1950s where Utah Railway trackage sharing with UP ended near Provo). In my freelance world Ogden was founded by pirates from the Great Salt Lake. :)
You aren't alone in being more at home with the building of a layout as opposed to operations. Where did you learn your skillsets (i.e. woodworking, electrical, layout design, track laying, etc.)?
The school of hard knocks and OJT (On the Job Training).
Is the layout being designed for a group of operators or one person? Or both?
The layout is designed to support 10-12 operators comfortably but I'm not sure when that will become a reality.
Of course there are the basics..... what is the mainline run, max grade, minimum radius, and so on?
The mainline run is about 450 feet between the lower and upper return loops. There are 50+ ft long branchlines at the lower and upper ends as well. The max grade is 1.95% along the 80ft long 'nolix' helper district between the middle and upper levels. There is a double track helix with 40" and 37.5" radius curves having 1.65% and 1.75% grades between the lower and middle levels. The lower level is mostly at 42" elevation (Ogden is 45" and the lower return loop/staging track underneath Ogden is at 38"). The middle level is at 62" until it reaches the nolix where it starts climbing. The upper level is mostly at 82" but with the 30" high floor it's a 'relative' 52" elevation. The minimum visible mainline radius is 40".
Again, your work - and of course your posting the pics - is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for being so candid. I hope you realize that what you are doing is what many of us have only dreamt about - so a lot of your fellow forum members are watching with rapt interest.
Of course, I have more questions...........
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
mobilman44 Hi! This project is certainly impressive and of top quality work, and the progress over the last year is definitely over the top. Having built a number of layouts over the years, with the last two filling an 11x15 room, I can certainly appreciate the project and the effort put into it. I do have some questions, that may have been asked, but I missed them..... - Obviously the slab and structure, framing, drywall, electrical and HVAC were contracted out. But how many folks are building the layout?
Hi!
This project is certainly impressive and of top quality work, and the progress over the last year is definitely over the top. Having built a number of layouts over the years, with the last two filling an 11x15 room, I can certainly appreciate the project and the effort put into it.
I do have some questions, that may have been asked, but I missed them.....
- Obviously the slab and structure, framing, drywall, electrical and HVAC were contracted out. But how many folks are building the layout?
3 people are working on the layout. Me, myself, and I. My father helps out for a couple hours occasionally (my parents are PA snowbirds from mid December to late March) but other than that it's just me. My father is big into G gauge and has a 30x30 layout in the basement of their house in PA.
- How many hours are put in on the layout each week?
Between 10 and 40 hours per week currently. I usually get about 2-3 hours of work done in the train room between 4-7 AM before I head to my 'real' job M-F. And then 0-3 hours in the evening. And another 4-12 hours total on the weekends.
- Have you had previous layouts?
I had a 10x11 ft bedroom sized 2 level layout previously. Within about 6 months of starting that layout I realized I needed a FAR larger space to achieve my autistic vision. I spent 10 years drawing layout designs and train rooms and detached garage/workshops until I came up with what I thought was a design that met all my criteria.
Lots of other questions this retired financial analyst would like to ask, but then I would be labeled as nosey - and rightly so.
Fire away!
Anyway, it really is a beautiful piece of work, and I look forward to seeing it through to finalization!
Atlas flex is so easy to lay, but some say they don't like the springiness - but to me, it's lays very evenly, curves nice and evenly but I can understand if people want to use adhesives, it's going to need pinning in place to stay put while curing cause it's trying to spring back to straight. I have been using Atlas track nails and or MicroEngineering spikes into Homasote or cord and OSB "plywood". When nailing, the springiness is actually your friend.
Thirty-eight sounds like a good height off the floor - I went with 40 for my staging yard but there was a sump pump box I had to clear.
I got a hold of some homabed some years back and really liked it, but cork works well for me too so either is good.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
riogrande5761 It looks dead-on to what I've done - latex painted (looks better and hopefully resists moister). I've laid my train with old fashioned Atlas track nails and code 100 Atlas track - I'm not concerned about appearance in staging. So your switching to foam in the open areas? What is the elevation above the floor of the bottom staging tracks?
It looks dead-on to what I've done - latex painted (looks better and hopefully resists moister). I've laid my train with old fashioned Atlas track nails and code 100 Atlas track - I'm not concerned about appearance in staging. So your switching to foam in the open areas? What is the elevation above the floor of the bottom staging tracks?
The track is Atlas code 100 and the turnouts are Peco code 100 large. The return loop/staging track is 38" above the floor (well the top of the homasote is 38" above the floor).
I'm going to try the WS foam roadbed for the mainline. If I like it great, if not I may switch to cork. I have some Homabed I had ordered but not used for the previous layout that I plan to use for the major branchlines.
Onewolf riogrande5761 Is that homasote under the tracks where you have the staging tracks in the photo's above? Yes, it's painted homasote.
riogrande5761 Is that homasote under the tracks where you have the staging tracks in the photo's above?
Is that homasote under the tracks where you have the staging tracks in the photo's above?
OnewolfClear thin plexi? I'm open to suggestions.
I use Lexan or polycarbonate. It can be sheared and bent without breaking.
Steer clear of acrylic (Plexiglass) since it is brittle and can easily snap if you bend it too much or over-tighten a screw holding it in place.
Regards, Ed
I've been just adding cardboard guardrails with hot glue which should be sufficient to block any derailed trains from taking the plunge, but my layout is being built on the cheap and since I am not planning on being here more than 2-3 more years, I'm not going with something more posh, like masonite or hardboard (which I am going to use for fascia.
riogrande5761 Given the space, I would have designed return loop staging just like you did. Great work. Are you going to add "guard rails" to keep expensive trains from going over the edge to the floor?
Given the space, I would have designed return loop staging just like you did. Great work. Are you going to add "guard rails" to keep expensive trains from going over the edge to the floor?
I plan to add some sort of low 'guardrails' in areas where trains could take the death plunge. I haven't figured out yet what I will use for the train catcher. 1/8" masonite? Cardboard? Clear thin plexi? I'm open to suggestions.
hon30critter Onewolf: I love the nice neat wiring arrangements! I'm sure things will get more complex as you install the turnout busses etc. but you are certainly off to a good start on the electrics. Dave
Onewolf:
I love the nice neat wiring arrangements! I'm sure things will get more complex as you install the turnout busses etc. but you are certainly off to a good start on the electrics.
Dave
I'm doing my best to avoid the quick/dirty wiring route which will cause lots of problems later on. Keep repeating: "Patience is a virtue". :)