I am building a new layout. The space I am using is 10' x 17', and I left a 1'x8' table along one wall to be my 5 track staging yard. the staging yard is at the lowest elevation, so I was think I could put an industrial park on top of it to conceal the staging yard. How much clearance should I use? The easy answer for my layout would be 5" but I should probably make it at least 6".
The entrance to the staging yard will pass under the main, so making a turnout off the main and then climb to the industrial park would not be hard to do.
Thoughts?
5" of clearance above the rails is really not enough, even more so if you're running modern equipment. Can you get you hand in there to rerail or otherwise deal with problems? Not without pulling all the tracks between the ourside and the problem track. Of course, if you're prepared to not find that frustrating, then 5" will clear anything on the rail in HO AFAIK.
If you're talking 3 or 4 tracks, this could work. If you're talking more than that, it just seems like asking for trouble.
Another factor is construction and maintenance. I assumer you'll do everything complete to the track in running and tested condition before buidling the upper deck. It's almost inevitable something will require attention in the future. 5" isn't much room to work with for doing anything but maybe cleaning track -- and that's only when it's been cleared out.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
I have also been thinking of a long shelf staging yard. My plan to cover it is a hinged section that would lift up to give me full access to staging. I've also thought of putting the staging tracks on a pull-out drawer, and even a swing-out contraption that would let me rotate the whole set of staging tracks so that I could turn all the trains at once and have them ready to come out again without having to manually swap the engines and cabeese. The hinged cover, with the hinge offset from the wall far enough so that the scenery won't be a problem, seems like the simplest.
I plan to have the staging level with the rest of the layout. I also want to run a branch line on the cover, but that would only be very short trains so the grade would be less of an issue.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Consider whether the upper section will require anything from below. I had to install a Tortoise remote actuator under a low (about 4") clearance and drilling screw holes and using a screwdriver under there even though I could reach was extremely difficult. A lot has to do with planning the upper needs or maintenance, including an unforeseen desire to make revisions.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
You might also want to consider the possible need for lighting in that staging yard once it is covered by something. And because "things happen" in hidden staging, you'll also want plenty of room for hands and arms. Making Atlas re-railers part of the track is not a bad idea either.
Dave Nelson
LION built "staging yards" with 12" clearance. Staginy yarda are all gon, now this area is part of a four mane lion.
When built, the tracks were installed before the upper level was installed. It was renovated some time later, with the accompyment of a lot of fussing. If you can find a way to make the area taller, then make it as roomy as you possibly can : You need to get your big furry paws in there more often than you would thing.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
5" would be an absolute minimum. There are issues with a finished layout above your staging:
Clearance - You need to get you hand in there to access the rear tracks.
Depth of Fascia - Or is this just going to be a plank above the staging?
Parallel Track Width - If you have 'fat' fingers, you may need 2.5" to 3" track centers...
I have 18" from the finished layout to the staging under it. The fascia is will be at least 4" thick. I have not installed it, and I am thinking about some kind of lighting - So it might get 'thicker' by the time I get serious about installing it. Once the finished upper level is complete, I can see lighting issues down there. Our club has a similar arrangement and we are looking at installing some kind of lighting(30" wide staging, with 30" wide layout above it.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
Placew some of the roadbed you plan to use on the shelf. Put a section of track on ther roadbed. Put your tallest piece of equipment on the track. Make a fat fist and place it above the piece of equipment. Measure from the shelf surface up to the top of your most prominent knuckle. That's your ABSOLUTE MINIMUM clearance, but more space is better.
If you can't raise the bridge, lower the river.
My passenger staging yard (double-ended, puzzle palace specialwork at both ends) is up between the L girders supporting my engine change/subdivision yard. In order to provide access, it can be lowered in one piece to fifteen inches below the girders. Then the three separate modules can be removed for repair or modification. Locked in the up position by six wing nuts on fixed studs - cables raise and lower, but do not secure, the platform frame.
Where did the idea come from? The battery hoists on the C-47 (aka DC-3) Gooney Bird.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with unconventional engineering)
I'm presently bulidng an around the wall layout in a similar sized room (10x18.4') and perhaps a bit more ambitious. My staging yard has currently 10 staging tracks (might squeeze in an 11th track) to hold trains around 12-20' feet long depending on the track. My initial clearance is planned at 7" over the top of the staging yard but to increase run length of the main line and reduce grade a bit, I may add a 360 single helix turn and increase the clearnce to 8" as thats a lot of staging going to be under than main yard and access will need to be as good as possible.
Another minor fault tolerance measure I'm building in is adding two Atlas re-railer tracks on each staging track, one at each end of the straight section, to hopefully catch any errant wheels that may come of the track and re-rail the cars as they are passing into and out of a staging track.
http://atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/thread/1226/layouts-before-after-thread?page=5
The above link is to a topic on Atlas Rescue where I have posted some photo's - last update was March 7 - showing the benchwork and homsote down where the staging yard is going - enough width to hold maximum of 11 tracks. 10 tracks are down now from the mid point through the far end and curving into a ladder down to one track. I'll try to get some newer photo's posted this weekend or early next week. The risers along the back I added before putting the benchwork against the wall are the back supports for the above visible layer where a train yard will go. This will be a fairly simple around the room twice for just running trains out of staging and around the room - practice scenery etc. a few industry sidings to swtich and have fun. Trying to make the most of the space available and someday maybe a place with a bigger train room or basement.
Cheers, Jim
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
My staging yards are 8" below the bottom of the benchwork supporting the tracks above the 2 staging areas. I am using regular clear Christmas light "ropes", (the lights are located inside a clear flexible plastic tube). I am running tests to see how many of the lights will blow over a period of time.
If the tests prove to be discouraging, especially with bulb life, I'll probably replace them with strings of LED rope lights. Right now, the area under the main yards have 2, 300 light strings mounted and so far the lighting is excellent. With the clearence available and the lightning, I have no problem getting under there for maintenance.
Carey
Keep it between the Rails
Alabama Central Homepage
Nara member #128
NMRA &SER Life member
Here is a photo for reference of the staging yard in-progress. This is a small 10x18' from but you can see I'm going for lots of capacity - I am not shy about fitting some long trains and 10-11 tracks. Right now it's designed for a 7 inch clearance but I may add an inch to get a bit better access. The risers in the background are there to facilitate the 2nd level after the bottom is completed.