The 28 X 80 hollow core door is the best way to start. Cut one end off the door to get it the length you need and make a plug to go into the end you cut off, then glue it in.
You say that you don't have the skills to trim it to size. Well it only takes a saw and a square. If you are going to be in Model Railroading for any length of time, you need to learn these skills or you might as well quit now. Get a basic wood working book from one of the Big Box stores and read it. There should be many techniques in it that will tell you how to do things. If you have a hard time choosing a book, ask one of the associates for help. All skills are learned by reading and doing, or watching other people do them and then doing them yourself. No one is born with them. We have all been through this learning process.
Once you have the door cut to size, I would then glue the 2 inch foam to it. This will make a very sturdy layout base. If you want to put legs on it, you can use 2 x 2's at the corners. Some cross braces or triangular leg braces will make it sturdy.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I built this simple table for Phase 1 of my layout:
It's 5x12 feet. The outer frame is made of 1x4 lumber. The inner stringers are 1x3 lumber, spaced at 16-inch intervals and aligned with the bottom of the 1x4 outer frame. This lets the 2-inch pink foam sit down inside the outer frame, protecting the foam's edge. The legs are 2x3, and the triangular gussets holding the legs steady are cut from scrap 3/4 inch plywood. The simple act of staining and polyurethaning the frame makes it much more presentable as a piece of furniture in the train room.
2 inches of pink foam is stiff enough for HO trains. You don't need any plywood base beneath it. The 16-inch stringers above provide plenty of support, even over the 5-foot width of the layout.
I built this with casters on the legs so that I could move it around the train room, which is also the family room. Even fully loaded with scenery, track and trains, I can still move it easily.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Your benchwork is the foundation of your layout. If you cut corners and find out later that it is inadequate you will have to tear out the entire layout and start over. If you NEED to save money, do it in an area that can be easily upgraded when times get better.
A 28x80 inch hollow core door is only about $20 and makes a good solid base.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
Hi, and welcome to the Forum !
Some of us have been around the hobby for many years (I started in 1955) and built a number of layouts.
There is a lot of different ways to approach building a layout, and we all "do our thing". But one aspect I think most all will agree upon is to take your time, use quality materials, and "do it right".
For the size you are talking about, I would consider 2x4s for corner and also center legs. The layout is a bit long to have just corner legs. I would used "ripped" 1x4s for lateral supports. Ripped 1x4s come out to about 1 3/4 inches wide, whereas store bought 1x2s are really only 1 1/2 inch wide. The extra 1/4 makes a big difference.
Also, I would also use some 1/2 inch plywood for the base. Personally I prefer sheet cork or cork roadbed on top of the base, but some folks like foam. In any case, just using foam will not stand the test of time or any kind of abuse.
Hey, take your time, plan it out, ask questions of the Forum, and the result will be definitely worthwhile!
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Hi
and a big fat to you.
I built a 3.5 foot x 5.1 foot HO scale layout that I wanted to be super lightweight as I know someday it will be moved, and I wouldn't be able to handle a heavy layout.
>I used an open grid with extruded foam {blue stuff, though the pink would work..as long as it is NOT the white beaded flimsy stuff}. I used 1x4s for the four outer boarders, and 1x2s for the internal supports, set 1 foot on center. I chose the premium 1x2s for an "assured" quality {not the el cheapos meant for hidden furring strips} . 1 foot on center might even be overkill, but I thought it might make it sturdier to do 1 foot spacing.
>You can use a dresser if you like, but at 5.1 feet long, my layout only has 4 legs {2x3 studs cut to length for the height I wanted} at the four outer corners. 6 foot should mean little difference. Since I used the extruded foam over 1 foot on center, the 5.1 foot span seems perfectly OK,, unless you plan on climbing on it, which I don't do. The dresser in the center would be extra support, though, and GREAT for storing MRRing stuff!.
> You can do an L girder if you like, but again, I just used 1x4s and 1x2s open grid with foam on top of it, simple and good enough for my layout. I glued the foam with foam sensitvie glue to the 1x2s tops {the 1 inch side} and it's very sturdy. I screwed the ends of the 1x2s into the 1x4 frame sides for "extra sturdy" instead of just gluing them to the outside boarders.. Also helps keep it from "racking and twisiting".
Hope this helps you!
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Hello everyone. I am in the process of building a N scale layout. I use to be in HO, but due to space I converted to N scale. I am looking to build a 28" x 6' layout. My problem i am facing is planning my benchwork. I plan on using 2" foam as a base for my layout. I have a HCD that is 36x80, I am not skilled enough to trim it to size, nor do i want to. Eventually It will be part of the layout once room becomes available. I can not afford Plywood, not at 50 dollors a sheet for a 1/2". I been doing research as to the toughness of the foam. My layout will be a logging layout so it will have foam base mountains. I am trying to keep it light as possible. yet sturdy.
My options I was thinking were of 3 choices. 1.) to do an open grid, (but the questions would be what size wood should i use? and how far apart should my center supports be?)
2.) i have a dresser That i thought about using as a center leg with a open grid table top above it with angled braces attached to each end for support.
3.) doing a L girder Bench.
But all 3 questions still plague me as far as size of wood. and how much is to much?
The reason i ask on wood is I built my aquarium stand using 2x4's after a lot of research and looking at ones in stores that are made with cheap particle board, that hold up 500 pound or more. and last 5 years if kept up. so I found that i should brace heavy in that respect. But my layout will not even be a fraction of the weight of my aquarium. So is 1x4's necessary for something that will barely weigh 50lbs? I do not plan on leaning on it or anything like that due to the size i will be able to reach everything. and my turnouts will all be ground throws, nothing fancy. so any suggestion's, opinions? I just like to get a feel of other's and what they think.