One observation from someone who is just getting back into the hobby after a 50 year hiatus: perhaps it would be wise to start with a small shelf switching layout just to get familiar with things. If you make the switching layout modular, you can experiment for a while and then incorporate it into a larger layout once you have gained some experience and have a better idea of what you want.
It could take a long time building a layout as big as the one you have indicated here, and, until you get it well underway, it would be very difficult to have any meaningful operations. On the other hand, with a small switching layout, you could have a working layout that you could add on to, if you wished, as time passes and you want to build something bigger.
I am building a modular switching DCC HO layout on an 18" by 66" plywood base. It has 6 Atlas code 83 switches with Tortoise switch machines and powered frogs, some Atlas snap track as well as flex track, a control panel (to which I plan to add LEDs at some point), a plug-in port for an additional throttle to operate two engines at once, etc. There are six large DPM and Walthers structures, many smaller ones, two roads, and a fair amount of scenery and other details. After about 18 months of continuous work an hour or two at a time, it is still not finished, but I can get a lot of fun running switching operations, improving buildings (such as by adding interiors and exterior signage and details), adding more scenery, etc., and generally experimenting with new and different techniques. And, in the process, learning again how to do things, sometimes by making mistakes that I later have to correct either by undoing or modifying what was done.
At some point, I am going to add modules at either end, but I want to get the first module a bit more finished before I start to do that. But, all the time, I am running trains and getting a great deal of satisfaction from what I am doing.
Paul_in_GA I posted this in a different section but I'd like some people's input. My first layout, HO, DCC, still learning and acquiring things. Here's the space I have to work with. Should it be modified? Any suggestions? I want to use the WS foam system, I'd like an elevated track, a tunnel, and lots of rock walls. Not prototype. I'd really appreciate any input. Thanks.
I posted this in a different section but I'd like some people's input. My first layout, HO, DCC, still learning and acquiring things.
Here's the space I have to work with. Should it be modified? Any suggestions? I want to use the WS foam system, I'd like an elevated track, a tunnel, and lots of rock walls. Not prototype. I'd really appreciate any input. Thanks.
Hi Paul ---
What is this drawing representing? Is it a big table or a small room? In general, trying to fit a big rectangular table with room for H0 scale turnback curves into a small room is a tough proposal that often give reach problems and narrow aisles.
Some well known workaounds for that:
- Don't do turnback curves. Instead make a railroad that runs point to point on narrower shelves
- Switch to a smaller scale. In N scale, a decent turnback curve for medium size equipment only needs 30" or so of table depth - much easier to reach across from the front than the 4 feet of depth you need fot H0 scale 22" readius curves (the corresponding radius in N scale is 12-13").
- Try a doughnut shaped layout, where the operator is in the middle. When only 1/4 of the curve is on the table and the center of the curve is off the table you can do much wider curves in a narrow space.
An example of the last idea in a space 6.5 foot x 11.5 foot:
Not 22" curves, btw - this one uses 20" curve radius - which is adequate for what I am running - 40' cars and short diesels, but not for longer steam locos or passenger cars.
Here is yet another illustration - from layout designer Byron Henderson (cuyama in this forum) showing how one can get a significantly bigger table layout with larger curves into a room by not limiting one self to just rectangular tables: http://www.layoutvision.com/gallery/id51.html
Lots of ways to do things. But I would suggest starting with a drawing of the entire room, not a drawing of a rectangular table, and considering whether any of the suggested approaches above (not doing continuous run, going down to N scale, doing a surround layout instead of a big table, non-rectangular tables) would be an idea for your circumstances. Smile, Stein
With 22" radius curves that space is pretty limiting with what one can do.
My first two thoughts for a basic shape were something like below:
I think a drawing of your space would help more than the photo you have. Show where the doors (and their swing) and windows are. Are there any other features that would effect use of space. Your desk could go under a shelf layout, so it is not a real problem. Give the measurements of your total space too.
Is there a model rr club in your area. If you go to the light gray line at the top of this page, click on Resources, then Model RR Groups. put in your zip code and mileage, see what comes up. You can also do it by state. You can do the same for events. A good model rr show with display layouts would help you, I think Usually groups have layouts at rr shows and they can answer some of your questions, with some examples right in front of you.
Also, if you have a Local Hobby Shop (LHS), you could ask the owner to give your name to modelers in the area and hope that they would contact you. By your leaving your name, it relieves the owner from giving information about someone who does not want to be contacted. If he gave you "so-in-so's" name and "so-in-so" didn't want to be contacted the owner could lose a good customer. This way, if "so-in-so" is willing to help you, he can call you. You can find hobby shops under Resources too, but not all hobby shops are listed there.
Seeing things in person and having a back and forth conversation while looking at things can be a big help. Most modelers at shows are very willing to share their information.
You will see some very nice work. Don't feel intimidated, basic scenery is not hard and can make a big difference.in your layouts appearance. I was amazed at how much difference just a coat of paint and a sprinkling of a couple of colors of ground foam made. Many folks once started redo the areas they started in, as their skills have improved. Some will replace their whole layout, some to make it look better, some because what they want to model has changed.
Good luck,
Richard
Paul_in_GAI agree, it would be a huge reach. Sigh. My main concern is I was told I need 22 inch turnouts, still trying to figure out exactly what turnouts are and how to measure them!
A turnout is the same thing as a switchtrack. Model railroaders began using the term turnouts instead of switches to avoid confusion between trackwork and electrical switches used to control the electricity to the track. North American turnouts are measured in numbers representing the ratio of distance travelled vs distance of departure on the "frog". The frog is the pointy part where the two rails meet. For example a #4 turnout (very sharp) will have traveled 4 units down the rail when the departing rail is 1 unit from the straight.
In HO scale a very common turnout is the Atlas Custom line #4. They will work nicely in track plans using 22" radius curves.
Um, I would be VERY appreciative if the designing folks could help me as I am at a total loss and am VERY intimidated with it so far. I can post a photo of the whole room. I will do that in a few minutes.
SSCHNABL, thanks for that info, that really helps me a lot. I do have a longer engine so I will need to have a large turning radius. But I bought a small shunting(?) engine that's really neat looking. It is tiny. I bought some Kadee cars and the CSX loco. Now with your info I will have to make sure everything is large like the turnouts and such.
All I need now is some help or a gentle nudge in the right direction. One thing I need to know is how wide is a 22 inch turining radius, 22 inches? And I will need more than one right? So that will dictate how much space I need, how wide the layout is right?
Paul,
The 22 inches refers to the radius of your curves. I believe this is pretty much a minimum radius for HO (I model N, so forgive me). Anything smaller than that and you will only be able to run the shortest equipment. Turnouts, or switches, are measured in numbers (i.e. #4, #6, #8, etc.) A #4 basically means for every unit you diverge, you will go forward 4 units. The higher the number, the more gradual the diverging route. A #4 will take up the least amount of room, but some of your longer engines may have trouble going through those. For my layout, #6 is the minimum. Longer turnouts look better, but they take up more real estate.
Scott
The problem is I can do any electrical work, woodwork, scenery, build kits, weather, all that stuff is easy for me. I have been so used to working off of very detailed schematics in woodworking or on real aircraft all my life that this idea of designing a layout is so intimidating I feel like giving up. I just can't wrap my mind around the three dimensions. I would like some elevated track, a tunnel, and maybe a little lake then I can add buildings. Here's a photo of my office/new train room.
Hi Cowman and thanks for helping. I agree, it would be a huge reach. Sigh. My main concern is I was told I need 22 inch turnouts, still trying to figure out exactly what turnouts are and how to measure them! LOL.
Um, I would be VERY appreciative if the designing folks could help me as I am at a total loss and am VERY intimidated with it so far. I can post a photo of the whole room. I will do that in a few minutes. Thanks again.
Paul
It appears that you have some very long reaches. 30" is usually concidered a maximum safe reach to be able to reach over your scenery without damaging it. Much will depend on your height, arm length and layout height. As I see the plan you have, the whole top, with the exception of the top left 30", would be unreachable, as would much of the right hand side. You could do access holes, but they mean crawling under the layout to get to them.
What does the whole space look like. Some of the good designing folks would have a better idea of your options if they could see the whole picture.
Oops, new to forum, forgot to click on email replies to his post.