I checked my track and found that there are places where it is too wide. I found this out by using the NMRA Gauge. The two places specifically are just before the points. Both are Atlas Snap Switches. Where the track connects to another piece of Atlas track, things are just fine. Any suggestions on how to correct track width being too wide?
The fact is that most HO rolling stock sold, except for Proto 87 items for very-close-to-true-scale, should be able to take variances in gauge in HO compatible rail stock across manufacturers near to half a mm. That half mm places flanges at the edge of the grooves in an NMRA gauge and may lead one to suspect the rail spacing is actually wrong. Not necessarily, but as variances rise outside of the NMRA standard/specs, and the variances are found in both wheel gauges and track gauges, then they are cumulative when they are in opposite directions. What I mean is, if the flanges are too wide by half mm and the tracks too narrow by the same amount, each judged by the NMRA gauge, you should expect problems at least some place around a typical layout.
All this to say that it may not be the gauge that is causing you any problems. It might be the orientation of the rails, whether they are level across each other (turnouts don't work well when they are torsioned or canted), especially at the points end. Also, some manufacturers place points in their turnouts that leave something to be desired. They may not be filed sharp enough, they may be sloppily hinged and be able to wobble too much when a wide-gauged axle runs into them, or they may not have been set apart from each other accurately enough that they provide flange clearances when thrown either way. Then, the wings and guard rails often need shimming so that the one flange running through the frog further up the turnout doesn't pick either the other guard or the frog point!
If you know all these things can be ruled out, and your wheel sets on all rolling items are nicely in the bottoms of the grooves on the NMRA gauge, and the rails at the points are definitely outside the rail gauge, then you really only have two practical choices: return the turnout and exchange it, or replace it with better QA ones, or cut the spike details with a sharp hobby knife and squeeze the rails closer together a half mm or so. You'll need other metal spikes to keep them squeezed and in place, or you'll have to use something like Gorilla Glue. Even so, while the glue is setting, you'll need mechanical means to keep them in place...they'll want to spring back out.
Crandell
If the track is HO, then you might be OK without doing anything. Most wheels will be wide enough so they don't fall in between the rails unless the rails are really wide.
However, if you do need to fix it, I would start by heating up one rail with a soldering iron and lightly but firmly pushing on the offending rail with a screwdriver and then removing the heat. Hold the pressure until the plastic cools. Check the gauge again of course. Next, with the rail in gauge, drill a TINY hole on both sides of the rail in the plastic ties and spike the rail down using a couple of small spikes. Once everything is in gauge, super glue the rail, spikes, ties, and roadbed. Be sure to NOT glue the points or other moveable parts of the turnout. This is how I fix mine if I have to.
Others may have another idea or two.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
The sloppy gauging of commercial turnouts (older Shinoharas were notorious for being too tight in the mid-point area) is what convinced me to go to all hand-laid specialwork. By the time you heat, gauge, secure and super-glue a made-in-China wonder I can be a good part of the way to finishing its hand-layed equivalent - in gauge, properly curved and with no rail joints in delicate locations. As far as I'm concerned, those two joints an inch in advance of the points are an engraved invitition to trouble.
Hand-laying is not an arcane art practiced by anointed wizards. Even this arthritic old coot can do it. As with anything, there's a learning curve, but it's short and not too steep. Once you master simple turnouts, it's just a short step to more complex items. And if you hand-lay a puzzle palace station throat with a half-dozen slip switches the money you save will provide you with another locomotive...
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex track with hand-laid specialwork)
Chuck, I continue to maintain a keen interest in hand laying turnouts, although I have never done one.
Now I need some Code 83 9.5 degree crossings and only Shinohara makes a 9.5 degree crossing and only in Code 100.
What product do you use to make your hand laid turnouts? What do you need to get started?
Rich
Alton Junction
Recipe for hand-laid turnouts:
1. Products:
2. Tools:
To see what the various parts of a turnout look like, go to your nearest rail-served industrial area and look at the real thing. Then look at a commercial sample. There are some 1:1 scale items that we can't reproduce (self-guarding frogs and spring-loaded wing rails, to name two) but those aren't really limitations.
Some time ago I wrote a description of my turnout-building methods. If you enter "definitely not patented" AND tomikawaTT in the search block, the oldest post that comes up will be it.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
gandydancer19 I would start by heating up one rail with a soldering iron and lightly but firmly pushing on the offending rail with a screwdriver and then removing the heat. Hold the pressure until the plastic cools. Check the gauge again of course. Next, with the rail in gauge, drill a TINY hole on both sides of the rail in the plastic ties and spike the rail down using a couple of small spikes. Once everything is in gauge, super glue the rail, spikes, ties, and roadbed. Be sure to NOT glue the points or other moveable parts of the turnout. This is how I fix mine if I have to.
I would start by heating up one rail with a soldering iron and lightly but firmly pushing on the offending rail with a screwdriver and then removing the heat. Hold the pressure until the plastic cools. Check the gauge again of course. Next, with the rail in gauge, drill a TINY hole on both sides of the rail in the plastic ties and spike the rail down using a couple of small spikes. Once everything is in gauge, super glue the rail, spikes, ties, and roadbed. Be sure to NOT glue the points or other moveable parts of the turnout. This is how I fix mine if I have to.
If you follow Elmer's idea of heating the plastic ties to the point of softness, rather than just jamming on the rail with a screwdriver i would use one of the various track gauges such as the three point type sold by Micro Engineering
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/255-42101
(Model Die Casting used to have a similar tool, and Kadee has one in the catalog as well)
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/380-341
For a length of rail out of gauge you may want severeal of these track gauges handy.
if your track is out of gauge it should be necessary to force fit the gauge onto the rail. Heating and softening plastic ties as per Elmer's advice with the track gauge in place should guide the railbase to the proper location when it cools -- which you can hasten with a spray of water (not a bad idea to have handy just in case you over do the heating). In other words the gauge does the work of correctly gauging the track once the ties are softened.
MLR makes a track guage for the specific purpose of soldering feeder wires - and it looks like it should work for this purpose too:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/479-5005
But my experience with the MLR jig -- which I own and use often -- is that it works for its intended purpose but is not a precision track gauge itself -- it is just there to prevent track from getting out of gauge when soldering feeders.
Dave Nelson
What is not mentioned in your origional post. Are you checking the gauge due to operational problems? Or just checking the gauge of all your trackwork?
Is the wide out of gauge enough that the track gauge will fall inside the rails? Wide gauge @ this area within a turnout shouldn't have any problems and may actually help w/ some 6 axle and 8-10 flanged drivered steam locos. Wheel tread width is sufficient that wide (to maximum gauge) should not be an issue. If it doesn't cause any operatioal troubles leave it, messing w/ closing the gauge may create new problems or render the turnout useless.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
While I have a NMRA gauge I never use it on a switch-I prefer the old fashion freight car test.I push one then 3-4 cars through the switch at various speeds.
I find this is a very reliable method to test a switch.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
BRAKIE While I have a NMRA gauge I never use it on a switch-I prefer the old fashion freight car test.I push one then 3-4 cars through the switch at various speeds. I find this is a very reliable method to test a switch.
I like that method, Larry, If it ain't broke- don't fix it.
tomikawaTT Recipe for hand-laid turnouts: 1. Products: Rail - desired code from any source. Most of mine comes from damaged flex found in a (now defunct, darn it) LHS's bargain bin. Stick rail is also available from several purveyors, but I haven't bought any. Microspikes - mine were purchased in Japan a LONG time ago, when I anticipated hand-laying an empire. I believe Micro-Mark sells them, as does Walthers and other folks. Sheet balsa - I use the medium grade, sawing it into ties of appropriate dimension with a Zona saw. I've found Michaels cheaper (and more conveniently located) than my not-so-local LHS. Fasten down and stain before laying track. Solder - 60-40 electronic solder. The Shack, or any electronic parts outlet, should have it. I'm slowly using a 5 pound reel I acquired a dog's age ago. Flux - I use Burnley's non-acid paste flux. There are others. Available where solder is sold. WARNING! Do NOT use acid flux, or acid-core solder, for anything having to do with model railroading or electronics. 2. Tools: Rail cutters. Zona saw. BIG fine-cut flat file. Spiking pliers. NMRA gauge. 3-point track gauge. I use two. Small level. To see what the various parts of a turnout look like, go to your nearest rail-served industrial area and look at the real thing. Then look at a commercial sample. There are some 1:1 scale items that we can't reproduce (self-guarding frogs and spring-loaded wing rails, to name two) but those aren't really limitations. Some time ago I wrote a description of my turnout-building methods. If you enter "definitely not patented" AND tomikawaTT in the search block, the oldest post that comes up will be it. Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
brakeman618
The November 2011 issue of Model Railroader magazine has a very good article on Hand Laying N Scale turnouts. It is not a stretch to follow the instructions to make one in HO. In fact, it should be easier 'cause everything is about twice as big. LOL.
If you go to the FastTracks website you will find all manner of turnout and crossing plans to download and build your turnout right on top of the plan. The plans are in just about any scale that you might need and the best part is that they are all FREE.
They also have any and all materials and tools that you might require up to and including their NMRA Compliant jigs. They also have a long list of instructional video's that you can view for free.
Good Luck.
Blue Flamer.
Make sure you're measuring from inside of the point rail to inside the opposite stock rail. If you're measuring from stock rail to stock rail near where the points make contact, it will be a little wide.
Richard
brakeman618 I checked my track and found that there are places where it is too wide. ... Both are Atlas Snap Switches.
I checked my track and found that there are places where it is too wide. ... Both are Atlas Snap Switches.
What you've encountered is a problem endemic with Atlas turnouts, especially the code 100 products. They can be wide enough around the points to cause derailments, in particular with anything that has "semi-scale" code 88 wheels. If you carefully bend the stock rail on the diverging route until it's in correct gauge, you can hold it in its proper place with a spike (not a track nail) inserted into a hole drilled on the outside of the bend in the stock rail.
Rob Spangler