If you're in a hurry, just use the flex track. I'ts easier and faster. If you have time on your hands, low fustration levels, and patience, you can go with handlaid. I would do a few practice "modules" first, just to see if you like it.
Peace
I've been watching Tim Warris' youtube videos. Nn3 is out !!!! Still considering normal N though. When the term handlaid was tossed out there I was thinking like the prototype. Wood ties put in a jig and rail spiked to it. I knew there was something out there floating around with PCB ties, heard the term, but never really thought about what it is. I would be a little worried about the look of PCB ties, but then again I'm sure some plastic ones look worse. I guess a distinguishable wood grain in the ties isn't as big of a deal in something small like N, but HO it seems like it might be more of a deal.
But at any point, I know for sure now that I will be doing hand laying. I looked at prices in the jigs, and it did seem kind of expensive, but I realized something. The turn out jigs are really two jigs in one, a left turn out and a right turn out. And I realized one more thing. Ya use the dang jig more than once!!! I will have plenty of time to do it, I'm in no real rush to get it together. But watching the video's just keeps me wanting to do it more and more. I'm only on part 3, so I need to get back to the videos.
One more quick question. I've asked this before about M-E code 40 rail and RP-25 wheels and was told the N scale wheels should work. Is this any different in handlaid? I know I don't have any oversized plastic spike detials to worry about, and I'm also assuming that the solder joints on the inside of the rails could be filed down a bit if clearance was a problem. This is really for N scale info only though. Code 40 rail in HO was something like 40# rail prototype so too small for that.
There're two points I like soldering the rails over spiking.
1 The spikes are heavy oversized.
2. If you solder you can adjust the rail by resoldering. If you want to move a spiked rails, the hole from the spike will become bigger and no longer hold this spike.
With soldering you can go down with rail size as much as you want. like the prototype.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
One more thing to note about the jigs. I'm building in N scale too, Code 55, No. 6 switches throughout my layout. I have curved, straight and crossovers to build. Instead of buying 3 jigs, I bought the curved and crossover jig after talking to Tim Warris. You can build straight No.6's in the crossover jig too. Saved over 200+ bucks... I did a cost estimate comparing kit built vs. peco. I have 60 switches to build. At that volume, I think I had the cost, including jigs, down to ~ $15/switch. Not bad.
Bob O.
s51flyer One more thing to note about the jigs. I'm building in N scale too, Code 55, No. 6 switches throughout my layout. I have curved, straight and crossovers to build. Instead of buying 3 jigs, I bought the curved and crossover jig after talking to Tim Warris. You can build straight No.6's in the crossover jig too. Saved over 200+ bucks... I did a cost estimate comparing kit built vs. peco. I have 60 switches to build. At that volume, I think I had the cost, including jigs, down to ~ $15/switch. Not bad. Bob O.
But no matter what I can't do a cost-benefit annalysis. I would loose before I started. I'm starting out small, trying to plan it on a common modular theme bench work so I can add on as time and space permits. So while all this jig buying and everything would be like buying a new pipe to fix a clogged drain, I'm looking at it is not having to call the plumber that much in the future. Or rather in my case I won't have to drag out a big ole monkey wrench as often. Plumbing was a bad anaolgy, but I accept that not everyone is as knowledgable as I in home repairs. Oh why oh why do I have this incasiable lust for educational television programming.
Speaking of which This Old House could be doing a new project by now. Getting a little tired of watching the same project episodes of that pre-fab barn/house series. Maybe for their next project instead of building and rejeuvenating an old downtown NY brownstone, they should build a train layout. Ooh, ooh, better yet tell that DIY network, they probably would. Heck they had a show that was all about restoring an old Corvette and another one that restored and old Harley. Is DIY network even on cable anymore??? Geez it's been so long. Satellite is the thing where you get those dog bowl things bolted to your roof right
MILW-RODR I've been watching Tim Warris' youtube videos. Nn3 is out !!!! Still considering normal N though. When the term handlaid was tossed out there I was thinking like the prototype. Wood ties put in a jig and rail spiked to it. I knew there was something out there floating around with PCB ties, heard the term, but never really thought about what it is. I would be a little worried about the look of PCB ties, but then again I'm sure some plastic ones look worse. I guess a distinguishable wood grain in the ties isn't as big of a deal in something small like N, but HO it seems like it might be more of a deal. One more quick question. I've asked this before about M-E code 40 rail and RP-25 wheels and was told the N scale wheels should work. Is this any different in handlaid? I know I don't have any oversized plastic spike detials to worry about, and I'm also assuming that the solder joints on the inside of the rails could be filed down a bit if clearance was a problem. This is really for N scale info only though. Code 40 rail in HO was something like 40# rail prototype so too small for that.
The N scale club at San Diego probably has more experience with N handlaid track than anybody (see http://www.sdmrm.org/pacific_desert.html). They use soldered rail and a mix of PC board and wood ties. In HO scale at least, some grind the copper cladding off the PC board ties except where the rails are soldered for an easier texture and color match with the wood ties.
The Proto87 Stores (http://www.proto87stores.com/) HO scale spikes are quite reasonable for N use, and are used by some for traditonal spiking of rail. The spike heads would probably limit you to the low profile flanges with code 40 rail in N. The spikes work fine with the 0.025" flanges of HO RP25 wheels, and the low profile N flanges are smaller than that.
Glued construction is also a reliable rail fixing technique used in both HO and N. Pliobond and Barge's Cement are the standard adhesives used. The Pliobond is set by running a soldering iron over the top of the rail to warm and set the glue. Barge's Cement uses a tiny brush application of MEK for the final set.
Both glued and soldered construction provide practically the full 0.040" for flanges, which is sufficient for all but the largest pizza cutters.
Looking forward to reports of your progress
Fred W
MILW-RODRBut no matter what I can't do a cost-benefit annalysis. I would loose before I started. I'm starting out small, trying to plan it on a common modular theme bench work so I can add on as time and space permits. So while all this jig buying and everything would be like buying a new pipe to fix a clogged drain, I'm looking at it is not having to call the plumber that much in the future.
But no matter what I can't do a cost-benefit annalysis. I would loose before I started. I'm starting out small, trying to plan it on a common modular theme bench work so I can add on as time and space permits. So while all this jig buying and everything would be like buying a new pipe to fix a clogged drain, I'm looking at it is not having to call the plumber that much in the future.
It's a hard question that only you can answer for your self, whether or not to invest in a Fast Tracks jig. I strongly recommend them not just because of the final product and ultimate cost savings, but also because using them is just *** fun, and more than a little educational. But we've been over those strengths before.
You asked as well about disguising the PC ties. Can you spot them in this picture? The rest are all wood. (HO scale, code 70).
I'm trying to model 1956, not live in it.
MILW-RODROoh, ooh, better yet tell that DIY network, they probably would. Heck they had a show that was all about restoring an old Corvette and another one that restored and old Harley. Is DIY network even on cable anymore???
Hey, DIY is still a network, and actually they did have a model RR program that ran a couple of years back. Basically they were building one of the HO Woodland Scenics RR kit I believe. They went through all the steps of risers and mountain through track. It was pretty good. I stumbled on it one Sat night and watched the series.
I would love to try the handlaid track myself, that will be the next layout when I get into a house.
Rob
Dang, Scarpia, I know the jig templates and I still can spot the PC board ties... Nice work!