nucat78 Just a side note on walls, if anybody cares: I found some 4X8 sheets of smooth, white-faced hardboard wallboard at HoPo. Have to glue it instead of use drywall screws and the sheets would probably have to be mounted vertically instead of sideways like you can with drywall, but might be worth investigating. Sorry, back on topic: Keep those update photos coming! It's always good to read about and see what other folks are doing.
Just a side note on walls, if anybody cares:
I found some 4X8 sheets of smooth, white-faced hardboard wallboard at HoPo. Have to glue it instead of use drywall screws and the sheets would probably have to be mounted vertically instead of sideways like you can with drywall, but might be worth investigating.
Sorry, back on topic:
Keep those update photos coming! It's always good to read about and see what other folks are doing.
That Masonite or FRP panels are designed to be bonded to a solid substrate as drywall or plywood. They are quite flimsey to be mounted directly on 2x4s @ 16" centers. Since the layout is already screwed to the bare 2x4s, I hope that the studding is still running the 16" on center. Without center blocking bowed studs are quite common and you may have trouble attaching the 48" panels.
The excitement of getting that track down before finishing the space is going to create quite some headaches when the time comes to do the ceiling and finish those walls.
All it takes is to drop a hammer/ tool or loose balance while on a step ladder and crunch that quite nicely done trackwork, and there may be "some tears" Just seem to be getting way ahead of yourself on laying track.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Yeah, I'm still framing the traincave, but thanks for the info on the FRP stuff - the info blurb at HoPo didn't say it had to go up against an existing wall. Looks it'll be drywall afterall...
Laid the first track tonight!
Hold my beer... ya'll watch this!
Made a lot more progress on the track installation:
Love the way this picture turned out. :)
Looks like some very smooth track work. The layout is coming along nicely and I must say that I admire how you have stuck to your plan. I find myself constantly making changes to my layout and at times it seems like the little forward progress I make becomes undone a week later when yet another lightbulb goes off over my head.
Keep up the good work as I always look forward to your updates.
Frank B.
Dorval, Canada
Layout is moving along and is nicely done. At this rate we should be watching trains on the layout soon, followed by operating sessions and scenery.Keep up the good work you are inspiring the rest of us.
Thanks for the compliments! It sure is nice to have some track down and able to run the cars over it.
I've flung the cars around well over 100 scale mph with no derailments, even through the turnouts- so that's a good thing.
As far as changing things- It's been a year and a half since I started construction. Every step of the way has been new to me, so it's taken a lot of thought and reading. I did change certain things here and there- there are quite a few less crossovers on the mainline vs. what I originally planned and the benchwork was refined as I saw how things worked when scaled up.
Flexibility is key! (though I certainly bordered on analysis paralysis sometimes...)
More trackwork to come.... I've got to finish the lower bridge , too, so I can complete the loop.
Wow I remember, a LONG time ago, we were discussing your plans.
Great to see it all coming together.
Make sure you get a video of the first trains running on it. Also known as "golden spike event".
Remind us again. Are you going DCC or DC?
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
wow, this is coming along nicely!
Motley Wow I remember, a LONG time ago, we were discussing your plans. Great to see it all coming together. Make sure you get a video of the first trains running on it. Also known as "golden spike event". Remind us again. Are you going DCC or DC?
Thanks, Motley! The goal has been to take my time and do it right... which hopefully will be the end result, haha.
It's been nice finally just having cars rolling on the tracks, I can't wait until they are under their own power. I'll be using NCE DCC PowerCap... the wiring for DCC is so much easier!
For tonight, I completed the "south" mainline- I joined up the ends of the doubletrack the last few inches into the turnout which reduces it to a single track for the "mountain" area. I also attached the track for the yard entry off the mainline as well.
From certain angles it looks like there is too much caulking (using PL-300 foamboard adhesive- absolutely fantastic stuff) under the ties, but it is well below the tie level even in the places where it piled up some. It would highly highly recommend the PL-300 for anyone using WS roadbed... it grabs onto the track and holds it extremely strong.
I completed the track over the hill and down to the crossover which will feed the mine! I've also cut out the area for the lower bridge and have begun digging down for that.
On the deck view of the crossover:
The last remaining area without track- I'll have to wait to complete the bridge for driving the golden spike:
A view of things to come... loaded up an intermodal train behind my AC4400:
An overview of the progress so far:
That's all for now! (and see my thread in the main area on the low clearance on the Atlas Thrall 53' well cars- not too pleased!)
80ktsClamp From certain angles it looks like there is too much caulking (using PL-300 foamboard adhesive- absolutely fantastic stuff) under the ties, but it is well below the tie level even in the places where it piled up some. It would highly highly recommend the PL-300 for anyone using WS roadbed... it grabs onto the track and holds it extremely strong.
I know that it is to late at this point, but for future reference, all you need to do is run a SMALL bead of the PL300 down the middle of your track line and spread it VERY THINLY with a spatula or an old credit card. It should be spread thin enough so that it does NOT ooze up between the ties at all. A little goes a long way, especially with the addition of some full pop cans (wobbly pop or otherwise) along the track until it cures. On the curves, some straight pins to ensure that the track stays in place will help.
Another late hint is to only put a very small area of the glue at the very end of the point and frog ends of your turnouts and NONE under the throw bar. It makes it much easier to remove (if necesary) down the road if you do get glue in the throw bar. Don't ask how I know this.
By the way, nice layout and good trackwork from what I can see.
Good luck.
Blue Flamer.
I don't know, but it might be overkill, but I made my legs using the 1x4" method MR used on one of their layouts. Glue and nail 1x4s in an "L" shape. I glue a 6" piece of 2x2 to the inner corner of one end. This gets drilled and a tee-nut for 1/4-20 carriage bolts. This not also gives plenty of support, but allows for adjustments due to floor variation. I also learned that it's a LOT easier to drill holes for wiring in the bracing BEFORE adding the top. Or at least while you have them upside down in the construction phase of the modules. When I'm ready to attach another module on my layout, I clamp them together, and drill holes in the ends. One module gets tapered dowels glued into the holes. It helps a lot when aligning later on. I have a 12' section that gets removed from time to time. I wired the removable section with terminal strips and male/female connectors that are zip tied together in pairs to make mating them back up easier.
PS. It really looks good!
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I am having some trouble working out how to electricially link to modules together. I want to be easily able to disconnect them. What sort of "male/female connectors" are you using? Thanks.
Alun I am having some trouble working out how to electricially link to modules together. I want to be easily able to disconnect them. What sort of "male/female connectors" are you using? Thanks.
Alun.
Any type of electrical plug and socket should work as long as it can carry your voltage and current. The NTrack website can help with what they use. What came to my mind was the Automotive trailer connections that can be found at any Automotive store or even some Big Box stores. In a pinch, you could even use the plug and sockets used to make your own extension cords. Just be sure that they will only plug together ONE WAY and make sure that you ALWAYS wire the same wire to the same connector otherwise, you could allow the "MAGIC SMOKE" to escape from one or more of your electrical components. Also, get in the habit of always putting the MALE END to the right end of the module, (or left if you prefer) and the FEMALE END to the left end of the module.
I hope that this helps.
Good Luck.
The power plug connectors are the Ideal "Powerplug" 30-1302S, which you can find at Home Depot. I was in the market for something, and it just so happened that Model Railroader put out the video for the connections between the sections on the latest project railroad. I haven't tried them yet, but I can't imagine it not working. Other connections between the feeders and the buses will be the 3M suitcase connectors.
I completed the mainline loop, and as part of that cut out the terrain and installed the "lower bridge...
Here is the lower bridge with the track (more foam cutting will be done, this was just to get it in and set):
Overview of the final portion of mainline completed:
And the overview of the completed loop- next up will be installing the yard and soldering the wiring:
Major progress today!
Thanks to some great help from my friend, all the mainline soldering was completed today as well as most of the yard was completed (along with soldering the associated wiring and joints). The rest of the yard should be finished tomorrow.
The yard was complete today, and ran the initial main bus and connections underneath!
And lastly, attempted the golden spike event tonight! It was.... kind of a success. After some effort on installing the decoder and getting the initial programming done, all I could do was get the light to turn on and off. The good news is no shorts and I can tell something is going on with the engine, no movement yet. Here is the powered but not moving AC4400: