The yard was complete today, and ran the initial main bus and connections underneath!
And lastly, attempted the golden spike event tonight! It was.... kind of a success. After some effort on installing the decoder and getting the initial programming done, all I could do was get the light to turn on and off. The good news is no shorts and I can tell something is going on with the engine, no movement yet. Here is the powered but not moving AC4400:
Hold my beer... ya'll watch this!
Major progress today!
Thanks to some great help from my friend, all the mainline soldering was completed today as well as most of the yard was completed (along with soldering the associated wiring and joints). The rest of the yard should be finished tomorrow.
The power plug connectors are the Ideal "Powerplug" 30-1302S, which you can find at Home Depot. I was in the market for something, and it just so happened that Model Railroader put out the video for the connections between the sections on the latest project railroad. I haven't tried them yet, but I can't imagine it not working. Other connections between the feeders and the buses will be the 3M suitcase connectors.
I completed the mainline loop, and as part of that cut out the terrain and installed the "lower bridge...
Here is the lower bridge with the track (more foam cutting will be done, this was just to get it in and set):
Overview of the final portion of mainline completed:
And the overview of the completed loop- next up will be installing the yard and soldering the wiring:
Alun I am having some trouble working out how to electricially link to modules together. I want to be easily able to disconnect them. What sort of "male/female connectors" are you using? Thanks.
I am having some trouble working out how to electricially link to modules together. I want to be easily able to disconnect them. What sort of "male/female connectors" are you using? Thanks.
Alun.
Any type of electrical plug and socket should work as long as it can carry your voltage and current. The NTrack website can help with what they use. What came to my mind was the Automotive trailer connections that can be found at any Automotive store or even some Big Box stores. In a pinch, you could even use the plug and sockets used to make your own extension cords. Just be sure that they will only plug together ONE WAY and make sure that you ALWAYS wire the same wire to the same connector otherwise, you could allow the "MAGIC SMOKE" to escape from one or more of your electrical components. Also, get in the habit of always putting the MALE END to the right end of the module, (or left if you prefer) and the FEMALE END to the left end of the module.
I hope that this helps.
Good Luck.
Blue Flamer.
I don't know, but it might be overkill, but I made my legs using the 1x4" method MR used on one of their layouts. Glue and nail 1x4s in an "L" shape. I glue a 6" piece of 2x2 to the inner corner of one end. This gets drilled and a tee-nut for 1/4-20 carriage bolts. This not also gives plenty of support, but allows for adjustments due to floor variation. I also learned that it's a LOT easier to drill holes for wiring in the bracing BEFORE adding the top. Or at least while you have them upside down in the construction phase of the modules. When I'm ready to attach another module on my layout, I clamp them together, and drill holes in the ends. One module gets tapered dowels glued into the holes. It helps a lot when aligning later on. I have a 12' section that gets removed from time to time. I wired the removable section with terminal strips and male/female connectors that are zip tied together in pairs to make mating them back up easier.
PS. It really looks good!
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
80ktsClamp From certain angles it looks like there is too much caulking (using PL-300 foamboard adhesive- absolutely fantastic stuff) under the ties, but it is well below the tie level even in the places where it piled up some. It would highly highly recommend the PL-300 for anyone using WS roadbed... it grabs onto the track and holds it extremely strong.
From certain angles it looks like there is too much caulking (using PL-300 foamboard adhesive- absolutely fantastic stuff) under the ties, but it is well below the tie level even in the places where it piled up some. It would highly highly recommend the PL-300 for anyone using WS roadbed... it grabs onto the track and holds it extremely strong.
I know that it is to late at this point, but for future reference, all you need to do is run a SMALL bead of the PL300 down the middle of your track line and spread it VERY THINLY with a spatula or an old credit card. It should be spread thin enough so that it does NOT ooze up between the ties at all. A little goes a long way, especially with the addition of some full pop cans (wobbly pop or otherwise) along the track until it cures. On the curves, some straight pins to ensure that the track stays in place will help.
Another late hint is to only put a very small area of the glue at the very end of the point and frog ends of your turnouts and NONE under the throw bar. It makes it much easier to remove (if necesary) down the road if you do get glue in the throw bar. Don't ask how I know this.
By the way, nice layout and good trackwork from what I can see.
Good luck.
I completed the track over the hill and down to the crossover which will feed the mine! I've also cut out the area for the lower bridge and have begun digging down for that.
On the deck view of the crossover:
The last remaining area without track- I'll have to wait to complete the bridge for driving the golden spike:
A view of things to come... loaded up an intermodal train behind my AC4400:
An overview of the progress so far:
That's all for now! (and see my thread in the main area on the low clearance on the Atlas Thrall 53' well cars- not too pleased!)
Motley Wow I remember, a LONG time ago, we were discussing your plans. Great to see it all coming together. Make sure you get a video of the first trains running on it. Also known as "golden spike event". Remind us again. Are you going DCC or DC?
Wow I remember, a LONG time ago, we were discussing your plans.
Great to see it all coming together.
Make sure you get a video of the first trains running on it. Also known as "golden spike event".
Remind us again. Are you going DCC or DC?
Thanks, Motley! The goal has been to take my time and do it right... which hopefully will be the end result, haha.
It's been nice finally just having cars rolling on the tracks, I can't wait until they are under their own power. I'll be using NCE DCC PowerCap... the wiring for DCC is so much easier!
For tonight, I completed the "south" mainline- I joined up the ends of the doubletrack the last few inches into the turnout which reduces it to a single track for the "mountain" area. I also attached the track for the yard entry off the mainline as well.
wow, this is coming along nicely!
Michael
CEO- Mile-HI-RailroadPrototype: D&RGW Moffat Line 1989
Thanks for the compliments! It sure is nice to have some track down and able to run the cars over it.
I've flung the cars around well over 100 scale mph with no derailments, even through the turnouts- so that's a good thing.
As far as changing things- It's been a year and a half since I started construction. Every step of the way has been new to me, so it's taken a lot of thought and reading. I did change certain things here and there- there are quite a few less crossovers on the mainline vs. what I originally planned and the benchwork was refined as I saw how things worked when scaled up.
Flexibility is key! (though I certainly bordered on analysis paralysis sometimes...)
More trackwork to come.... I've got to finish the lower bridge , too, so I can complete the loop.
Layout is moving along and is nicely done. At this rate we should be watching trains on the layout soon, followed by operating sessions and scenery.Keep up the good work you are inspiring the rest of us.
Looks like some very smooth track work. The layout is coming along nicely and I must say that I admire how you have stuck to your plan. I find myself constantly making changes to my layout and at times it seems like the little forward progress I make becomes undone a week later when yet another lightbulb goes off over my head.
Keep up the good work as I always look forward to your updates.
Frank B.
Dorval, Canada
Love the way this picture turned out. :)
Made a lot more progress on the track installation:
Laid the first track tonight!
Yeah, I'm still framing the traincave, but thanks for the info on the FRP stuff - the info blurb at HoPo didn't say it had to go up against an existing wall. Looks it'll be drywall afterall...
nucat78 Just a side note on walls, if anybody cares: I found some 4X8 sheets of smooth, white-faced hardboard wallboard at HoPo. Have to glue it instead of use drywall screws and the sheets would probably have to be mounted vertically instead of sideways like you can with drywall, but might be worth investigating. Sorry, back on topic: Keep those update photos coming! It's always good to read about and see what other folks are doing.
Just a side note on walls, if anybody cares:
I found some 4X8 sheets of smooth, white-faced hardboard wallboard at HoPo. Have to glue it instead of use drywall screws and the sheets would probably have to be mounted vertically instead of sideways like you can with drywall, but might be worth investigating.
Sorry, back on topic:
Keep those update photos coming! It's always good to read about and see what other folks are doing.
That Masonite or FRP panels are designed to be bonded to a solid substrate as drywall or plywood. They are quite flimsey to be mounted directly on 2x4s @ 16" centers. Since the layout is already screwed to the bare 2x4s, I hope that the studding is still running the 16" on center. Without center blocking bowed studs are quite common and you may have trouble attaching the 48" panels.
The excitement of getting that track down before finishing the space is going to create quite some headaches when the time comes to do the ceiling and finish those walls.
All it takes is to drop a hammer/ tool or loose balance while on a step ladder and crunch that quite nicely done trackwork, and there may be "some tears" Just seem to be getting way ahead of yourself on laying track.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Some advice on the roadbed.....
On my layout I too used foam and WS roadbed.......only to find that trains make a loud noise like Lionel trains do.
I know I`m late to this party but here are a few pics of how I did my legs for my layout.
First is a pic of the leveler bolts used.
Second and third pics are the latches and hinges used.....(my layout is portable).
.
Dennis Blank Jr.
CEO,COO,CFO,CMO,Bossman,Slavedriver,Engineer,Trackforeman,Grunt. Birdsboro & Reading Railroad
No plans to do anything toward finishing this area of the basement... just doesn't make any financial sense!
I completed the roadbed for the "south area" from the split to the double track and along with the yard entrance and yard lead:
chochowillie Thanks for the complement, and the suggestions. The room will have a suspended ceiling in place in the not too distant future, long before I even finish laying rail. Just waiting for an investment to come due The layout is actually fastened directly to the wall studs so nothing is going to move short of an earthquake. Stay tuned, I seem to be on a roll of late mostly because spring is still a ways away here in Alberta, Canada
Thanks for the complement, and the suggestions. The room will have a suspended ceiling in place in the not too distant future, long before I even finish laying rail. Just waiting for an investment to come due
The layout is actually fastened directly to the wall studs so nothing is going to move short of an earthquake. Stay tuned, I seem to be on a roll of late mostly because spring is still a ways away here in Alberta, Canada
I keep watching the progress, and that unfinished space is starting to bug me as the layout continues. I know you plan on a dropped ceiling, but the longer you put it off the more difficult it will be to install.
I also notice that quite long run of ductwork, I would never run that length in flex to one register. The insulated 7-8" running the center wall is fine but you could continue the rigid duct elbowed up into the bay to the floor boot allowing a cleaner ceiling to the outside wall. What is the air flow like from it? Generally flex is run in shorter sections off a main trunk. If you feel there's no problem w/ heat/AC just box the duct/ soffit to hang the dropped ceiling on. Cleated strips of plywood to box and Dw corner beaded. Once boxed any heating issues or adding booster will require tearing into the soffit/ ceiling. A booster/ fan could be added if addtional flow is nec for that register. What's going on w/ the walls? Do you plan on finishing them Drywall etc. Strap the concrete end wall and finish? Now is the time to drywall, mud and tape. Doing so later you will need to cover the entire layout from sanding joint compound, priming and painting
One other note before you complete the area. The TJI floor joists are quite ridgid and do carry the full span by code, however w/o any blocking, strapping or other bracing material ( generally DW attached or strapping will stiffen the floor above and you will note feel the bounce under feet as you walk across. I build w/ a considerable amount of engineered lumber products, codes do vary from different araes but I will use strapping on unfinished TJI joists for this reason.
Just a few thoughts for the space before you go any further.
I know we tend to get quite excited to build a layout and get trains running, but some room prep seems in order before track is laid.
Well, I've finished shimming the transitions to and from the hardboard overlay, completed the area for the yard lead, drilled holes and placed the feeder wires (to the mainline), and started laying the roadbed!
Here is the yard lead area:
The first piece of road bed:
And plenty more roadbed done:
J.Rob I'm sure everyone following this is enjoying the step by step. The layout is really going places. Anticipation of the time trains will be running is mounting. The photos really help the story. As I am writing this I am thinking of all of the nice "layout visits" I have enjoyed because of the internet. In my case I live out in the middle of nowhere, nearest hobby shop nearly 100 miles away, but due to the modern miracle of the internet it is as if I have lots of model railroaders in the same neighborhood. Thanks for taking the time to share your efforts, I know that has to seem like lots of extra work at times, nearly as much as having folks drop by but with out the benefit of having them help with your project. Looking forward to your next installment.
I'm sure everyone following this is enjoying the step by step. The layout is really going places. Anticipation of the time trains will be running is mounting. The photos really help the story. As I am writing this I am thinking of all of the nice "layout visits" I have enjoyed because of the internet. In my case I live out in the middle of nowhere, nearest hobby shop nearly 100 miles away, but due to the modern miracle of the internet it is as if I have lots of model railroaders in the same neighborhood.
Thanks for taking the time to share your efforts, I know that has to seem like lots of extra work at times, nearly as much as having folks drop by but with out the benefit of having them help with your project. Looking forward to your next installment.
Gidday, Nicely put, I share your sentiments, great to be able to just "drop in " from 8000 miles away.
Cheers, the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
I'm glad you're enjoying it, J.Rob!
I completed the loop with all the elevation changes, as well as secured the hardboard overlay for the "south" section:
The backdrop will be attached on the backside of the layout.. I'm approaching the stage where it will be going on. There is actually plenty of space behind the benchwork where I can slide in and attach what will be the backdrop, and there is the major advantage of being able to reach through the walls behind it.
I made some major progress today. All of the WS inclines were secured in place (including the split off into the yard), and the 2 inch higher elevation foamular area for the mine was cut and fitted. Even though it looks like it's one piece, everything is divided at the section lines and can be taken apart when that time comes. The inclines make it to 4 inches in elevation and then it will level out, as you can see. I'll cut and fit that section probably tomorrow.
Hope yall are enjoying the step by step!
80ktsClamp No plans to finish the walls... this is in a utility area. There will be a backdrop around a good portion of the layout.
No plans to finish the walls... this is in a utility area. There will be a backdrop around a good portion of the layout.
The layout will look better if you have a backdrop on at least the walls that the layout touches. To my eye, that's one studded wall, and a short portion of a concrete wall.
Speaking from experience, attaching a backdrop directly to a concrete wall is no fun. It would've been wise to extend the legs of the benchwork upwards to rise 24 inches above the lateral plane of the foam to give you something to nail too.
On the studded wall, its best to attach the backdrop before you get too far along laying track. Supporting yourself or resting tools on the benchwork whilst attaching the backdrop to the wall will likely dent the foam subroadbed.
It would be wise to complete your backdrop along the more inaccessible areas at this point.
- Douglas