I just did the same thing with a 2025 parts special I purchased for $10. Learned a lot in the process. The final step over the past few weeks was a stripping and repainting of the engine. It now runs well and looks pretty good!
The first step is to remove the brush plate and clean the armature. Use a VERY fine sandpaper to make sure the top is clean (fine as in sandpaper used as a last sanding in automotive work 300 grit or so). Test the continuity of the amarature with an OHM meter. There should be VERY small resistance between each of the three sections of the armature.
Next, clean the brushes with the very fine sandpaper. Whenever you use sandpaper, make sure you clean it our VERY well. Put the motor back together and then lubricate the two bearings lightly. Test the motor by connecting one lead from the transfomer to a ground, the other lead to the live brush terminal. The live brush terminal is the one connected to the e-unit. The other brush terminal connects to the field around the motor. Make sure that the wheels turn freely. A little oil and grease does wonders on the gears and wheels.
If the unit runs, that is good. If not, you may need a new armature. They are available on e-bay but replacement requires the pulling of the wheels off an axle and I consider that job hard to do.
If the moter now runs, you need to attend to the e-unit. The advice above about the Greenburg manual is invaluable! The e-unit is two things - a plunger that goes up each time voltage is applied and a drum that the plunger moves and connects different contacts to cause the forward, neutral, reverse action. Make sure all the contacts are clean. It comes apart by separating it and can be cleaned much easier. It does take a little patience to get it back together.
By working on an old parts train, I had a lot of fun and learned a LOT. I put in WAY more time that the item is worth, but tinkering is part of the fun for me. The train is simple in design and is extermely repairable. I would never throw away one of those old engines. I've restored three, including a full paint jobs. Note, most people will not paint an old engine as that will decrease its value - I do it as I am not a "collector" but rather an operator.
Good luck. Keep us updated on the progress.
dwiemer wrote: I have had luck in purchasing CRC at Home depot on the isle with the electrical tools and wire. Thanks for your service and sacrifice.dennis
I have had luck in purchasing CRC at Home depot on the isle with the electrical tools and wire.
Thanks for your service and sacrifice.
dennis
i dint think of home depot..thanks..
and serving my country was the best thing i have ever done in my life....i wish i was still in....but im not..so now i got time to "play with trains" ....as my gf puts it
I have had luck in purchasing CRC at Home depot on the isle with the electrical tools and wire. You would be suprised with what a good cleaning and lube will do to the lionel iron horses. As for track, whatever you do, make sure you do not use steel wool. Once cleaned, go ahead and use it. But, once you start any kind of permanent layout, buy new tubular, it is cheap and won't have a lot of the issues of using older track that has seen some rough times. One suggestion, get a copy of Greenberg's repair and operating manual for Lionel 1945-1969. They have lots of diagrams that will help in getting your train running. Also has lots of information on transformers, etc. If you don't have the time now, you can go to Olsen's Train Parts, they have a library that has the diagrams for most postwar items on the web site. Also, if you would like, email me as I Have a extra copy of the "Greenberg's" manual I mentioned above.
TCA#09-63805
Zeke, if you can't find CRC anywhere you can clean up the dirt with mineral spirits. As for the rust, how heavy is it? You might try scrubbing it with an old toothbrush and some plain white vinegar and see what that does for you. There are other treatments for rust, but white vinegar is the cheapest and easiest to try first. This is just my opinion, but I'd be willing to bet the dirt is probably causing more problems than the rust.
Since it was working a little beforehand, the engine must still have life in it. It should be possible to get it going.
lol you guys are pretty funy...i just went a few hardware stores and radio shack and no crc so maybe the lhs?
i will get pics of my track and this ol engine...it looks to have had a rough life...
and just to clear this up for me do i need to take the engine apart to clean it?
1688torpedo wrote: Zeke- Ole' Bruce is showing his age tonight! Next thing you know he'll tell you he shook hands with Josh Cowen as a lad. Don't worry though he's a swell fellow & our Corvair Guru also. (I bet Bruce walked Ten Miles to school ......one way as a lad!) Take Care. P.S.- This forum is a combination of comedy,wit,wisdom, & knowledge. Otherwise, The gang at CTT would fall asleep if it was boring Us Forumites have to earn our keep somehow.
Young Whipper Snappers! I remember when computers were steam powered! At least the one that A.C.Gilbert and I built was. And it was ten miles to school, up hill, both ways! Try to tell the young people of today that and they won't believe ya!!!! [(:D]
Bruce ( further east of Cleveland than Kieth ) Webster
zeke wrote: Dave Farquhar wrote: can of CRC zero-residue contact cleaner. Dave can i get this at the auto store to or a hobby shop
Dave Farquhar wrote: can of CRC zero-residue contact cleaner. Dave
can of CRC zero-residue contact cleaner. Dave
can i get this at the auto store to or a hobby shop
An auto parts store or even a good hardware store will have CRC. And like others have said, thanks for your service to our country. And don't let anyone tell you you're too old to play with trains. I'm 32. You and I aren't the youngest people here, but we're younger than average!
Also, wire-brushing track isn't the best thing to do, but if it works, I wouldn't worry about it. Down the line you'll probably want better track, but I started out with wire-brushed rusty track too.
Welcome aboard, Zeke,
Thought you might be curious about what make your engine is and a few other details. Your Lionel 2025 was built between 1947-49 with a 2-6-2 wheel configuration and then reintroduced again in 1952 with a 2-6-4 configuration. The tenders also differed on the '47-'49 model and the '52 version. When first offered, the 2025 was listed as 027, came with smoke and whistle and retailed for $24.50.
Bruce Webster
ZEKE,
Like DA GIZ stated above, clean track a good lube job, and good electrical connection.
Have fun and stop by the coffee pot.
laz57
Just a note. The postwar trains need to be in the upright position for the e-unit to function.If upside down the drum will not be turned by the pawl in the e-unit and sometimes the train will not run.If the e-unit is in neutral the train will appear to not work.
Ed
Welcome to the forum. I agree what information has already been espoused, but would add: Check the cord for the transformer. You want to make sure the cord is not cracked as often happens with older units. Your 2025 is a fine engine and will serve you well. Another potential cause of poor running can be the connection from the transformer to the tracks and also the connection from track to track. If you follow Dave's advice, you will know if your engine is running well.
Dennis
PS: Zeke, if you post what area you are from, one or even several of us may be close by and can invite you to a model railroad club, or even give good advice for service centers for trains.
If the track don't clean up good, just replace it. I think you will need O Gauge track to run on, not 027 as your locomotive may derail going around the curves on 027, don't forget new power lock-ons and wire.
Lee F.
Zeke, here's a suggestion: Go to the nearest auto parts store. Get some good grease (Lucas Red'n'Tacky is a good brand), a quart of automotive motor oil (you'll only use a few drops but it's cheap), and a can of CRC zero-residue contact cleaner. Spray it down with contact cleaner to get rid of the dirt and old lubricants. Take it outside, put down some newspapers, spray inside the engine, and let it all run out. Repeat if you feel like it. Let it dry, then put a little oil on the axles and bearings (a drop applied with a toothpick is enough), and put some grease on the gears. Now instead of putting it on the track, connect one of the wires from the transformer to the front or rear truck or to any convenient screw on the body. Touch the other wire to one of the pickup rollers. Turn on the transformer, and let the engine run for a bit. Once it gets used to running again, it'll work better on track. You may still need new track, but this is a good test for the engine.
Good luck!
Dave
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
Zeke
Welcome
If possible to help with identification and to provide accurate information, a picture or identification numbers off the trains will help give you the best information. This way we can tell right off if you have Lionel American Flyer Marx or whatever. There is a boatload of information here and we are eager to share our love of toy trains as a hobby.
Jim
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