"No childhood should be without a train!"
zeke wrote:i did however oil the 2025 also were mentioned and i thought what the heck and set it on some track i got cleaned...and it moved... totally shocked cuz i thought the eunit was fried..which still might be ...sisnce i have no idea how its sopposed to run ...meaning i heard about cycling? not sure on that yet....it just goes when i hit some throttle..its either full on or full off....regardless of were my throttle control is...but this does mean my engine works....i am so happy..
Cool! Cycling means if you push the direction button on the transformer, it'll go into neutral. Push it again and it'll go into reverse. Push again, neutral. Again, and then forward. There's a switch to lock the e-unit into one direction to disable this. Of course, if you lock it in neutral, it won't move.
I'd suggest setting up a loop of track and let it run for a while. It's good for both the loco and the track. If it slows down, give it a little push. Eventually you should get to a point where you'll have some range of speed, even. They tend to be cranky when they first run after sitting idle for decades.
hey let me say this is a great forum ricky
Zeke, I'm amazed and impressed you've scored Lionel stuff at two yard sales inside of a month or so. I'm doing well to find one every 3-4 months. (I'm one of those nuts who goes out to garage/yard sales every Saturday, even in heavy rain or snow, no matter how hot or cold it might be.)
The 1060 is a very basic engine. The body is plastic, and it was sold in Lionel's least expensive starter sets. A broken 1060 can be repaired, but it wasn't really designed to be repaired so most repair people curse them. But if it runs, you'll be able to have fun with it. I picked up a 246, which is a similar loco in design, in a box of assorted stuff for $35 a couple of years ago. It ran fine and even ended up doing Christmas Tree duty for me that year. And the locomotive I had growing up was my dad's old 1010, which looked just like the 1060 and 246 but had a metal body. He had better locomotives but those didn't run, so we got by with that one.
But yeah, I hope it runs too! Have fun and let us know how it turns out.
your right i am sorry...blind as a bat!
i did happen to find another loco at another yard sale in much better shape...but its not quite as big and heavy as mine is ...its a 1060...hope it works
The link I posted back on page 2 is for the electronic version of the 2025 pages in the Greenberg manual. Download them yourself and dive right in!
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
dwiemer wrote: Also, if you would like, email me as I Have a extra copy of the "Greenberg's" manual I mentioned above. dennis
Also, if you would like, email me as I Have a extra copy of the "Greenberg's" manual I mentioned above.
dennis
i could really use that manual if you are still willing to email it to me...thanks dennis
zekester06@charter.net
and thanks for that link to very informative...
as of right now i havent made any progress on repairs ....i kinda need a manual to help with things...( hint, hint) i have been reading on various things for last two weeks on this forum and wow..i am amazed on the things that can be accomplished...
till next time....
Hi, Zeke. Here is a link to give you some history on the engine you described. Nice ol' engines..
http://www.postwarlionel.com/cgi-bin/postwar?ITEM=2025
well i as i start the rebuild proccess i am gonna get new track..its not very expensive as stated before...and my engine will run the rails once again...i am gonna take my time on this since its my first time doing this...while this set is down and being fixed i have a ho set that i bought with this so i will be setting up something so i dont get bored....
someone was gonna email me the manual but somehow are paths aint meeting right.. if you still want to email me a copy its
thanks again....
Hey Zeke,
Two more thoughts: the 2025 when fixed is one of the best running steamers of ANY era! AND Lionel destroyed the tooling back in 1997, so it is a limited edition item they will not be re-making any time soon.
Of course you do realize now that I've said that it will show up in the next catalog!
Jon
Follow the link to Olsen's below. Type 2025 in the search window and you will get a list of all parts they have available for that locomotive.
You need part number 100-25C. "rebuilt E-unit orig,arm up,short cloth...$37.10"
Olsens Parts Search
This next link will lead you to the assembly diagrams and spec sheets for your particular locomotive. Very helpful, these diagrams also list the part numbers next to each illustrated part.
Olsen's 1952 2025 Pages
Zeke,
Looking at those photos, it looks like you got what you paid for. And since you only paid a buck, that's ok.
I'd take a Dremel tool and knock off as much rust as you can. Use a stainless steel wire brush attachment. DO NOT use steel wool! I've had post war trains that were literally welded together with rust. When I got done using the Dremel tool on them all moved freely and worked fine. It looks like at the very least, you need to have that e-unit overhauled. I think it would be easier to just replace it with a rebuilt one. They usually cost about $30-$40.
Your 2025 is from 1952 and has no magnatraction. I can tell by the sintered iron wheels. If your cab had the number 2035, it would have magnatraction.
Get rid of as much rust and dirt as you can, then coat all those axles and bearings with plenty of oil. Once you have the wheels turning freely and smoothly, the rest of the cleaning will be a cinch. If you can restore a car, you can restore a toy train. Keep us posted.
well here are some pics of the engine....so you can see what i am working with.
well i guess i will be taking this thing apart and rebuilding it..is thier a book on this or something cuz i have no idea what i am doing....
while this is down i have a ho scale i am going to be tinkering with ...i dont think i will repaint it...but i would like it working...
hey thanks for the tip...thats exactly what it was too....you guy's are good!
now whos volunteering to fix my engine....lol
Bob Nelson
just wondering something..i have taking this down cleaned it with the crc...
could it be my transformer? or how would i know if its bad? i mean it lights up some accessorry's i got so i assume its working? i really dont know how to totally do a tear down rebuild...but it doesnt seem to hard but...i havent done it so i dont know.
my track was pretty rusty i hit it with a wire brush ( before i knew it was bad ) and now its shiny for the most part...ok so when i had the engine on it and trying to get it to move i noticed my tarck was lighting up in a spot is that normal...and it got pretty hot....
i think i got in over my head with this train set but hey it was only a dollar at a garage sale...but i would like to run it....
I use an ink eraser to clean armatures.
Even with an open armature winding, there will be low resistance between commutator segments. The thing to check for is having the same resistance for each of the three possible commutator pairs.
"Test the motor by connecting one lead from the transfomer to a ground, the other lead to the live brush terminal. The live brush terminal is the one connected to the e-unit. The other brush terminal connects to the field around the motor." I'm afraid I don't understand what is meant here. Disconnect the e-unit wires from the brushes (or put the e-unit into the neutral position if you know how to do that). Connect one transformer wire to one brush. Connect the other brush to the field terminal (which is still connected to the e-unit). Connect the other transformer wire to the locomotive or motor frame.
Spray all the rusty parts with some WD-40. DO NOT spray the motor (comutator) or the field (copper wires) with it. Let the WD-40 work on the rust for a while, then start turning the wheels by hand.
CRC can be found at Home Depot in the electronics isle. Clean off any WD-40 from the motor with that and then oil and lube all moving parts, especially the axle bearings. Since they are rusty, oil those parts well. Lube the gears with white grease. Oil both ends of the comutator shaft as well.
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