My Beeps sometimes balked on 027 switches (new K-line but worse on old Lionel). I realized something (the roller?) was shorting on the black metal piece that moves back and forth. I looked at the top of it and I saw pits from arching. I put a piece of tape just on the top of the metal piece and it cured that problem. I also taped the SIDES of the big metal piece in the center that does not move. I did not want the wheels to accidently brush against it.
Finally I noticed that sometimes my Beep would not trigger the non-derail feature. It turns out the switch was not perfectly level and one of the wheels was off the track. If I pushed down on the beep the problem was corrected so I made my switch mounting and approaching track flatter.
When my track curves are not good and level my beeps sometimes derail the following car if it is very light (think K-line 027 plastic cars from sets). I think the Beep spring that keeps the coupler in the middle is a tad too strong. I fix this problem by adding a little weight over the truck next to the Beep or removing the Beep spring.
Jim H
I had a problem with my beep going over 0-22 switches at slow speeds. The problem seemed to be the short wheelbase, one wheel being insulated from the outside rail because of the traction tire, and the insulated rail on the 0-22 switch for the non-derailing feature. I solved this by grounding the coupler to the motor and pull a car with metal truck and coupler. Now I can creep over my switches in any direction. If I'm not pulling a car I just need to remember to go a little faster over the switches.
Sekon56 wrote: Justrains does have a good selection, but they are only $5 cheaper than RMT's website, so it is probably not worth the time or effort to shop around. RMT offers such a diversity (not even counting their custom runs) that I would think few hobby shops could afford to carry all their stock. Good luck! As for me, after spending a lot of internet time shopping around for better prices, I am just going to order from the RMT website.
Justrains does have a good selection, but they are only $5 cheaper than RMT's website, so it is probably not worth the time or effort to shop around. RMT offers such a diversity (not even counting their custom runs) that I would think few hobby shops could afford to carry all their stock. Good luck! As for me, after spending a lot of internet time shopping around for better prices, I am just going to order from the RMT website.
I noticed that too - JT appeared to be the cheapest and that as you say was only $5. I guess if JT has what you want, you can order from them and save the five bucks, but there is no reason to compromise on road names given the small price difference, I agree.
I have a few of these little gems. I can understand how some may not like them due to size, etc, but they are neat and will fit the bill with regard to my kids. If you search around, you may find a really good deal. I got two (Air Force, and Marines) for $60 for the set NIB. I also have the Lackawanna and it was a gift from my favorite HS owner. I look forward to many hours of fun with these.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
I can only speak to the BEEP's performance in terms of Ross and GG switches. In my experience with several different radii, the BEEP only seems to have problems with the O42 switches. I've noticed three different situations -- more so with GG than Ross, I might add. First, due to "roughness" going through the switch, one or both rollers get pushed up against the frame causing a short. A piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the frame took care of that issue. The "roughness" also caused the wheels to jump particularly as the BEEP transitioned from track to plastic. This caused a loss of ground. Two fixes for this -- smooth down all transitions through the switch (sandpaper, file or Dremel) and add some weight to the loco (remove shell and glue weights on frame over wheels -- three to six ounces per side should be enough). Finally, the distance between the two rollers is short enough that both rollers can lose contact particularly between the frog and the middle rail. Besides MUing or adding a roller equiped car behind the loco as compensation, I shaved down the plastic guide and added 1/16 inch of solder to the ends of the middle rails. Basically extended the middle rail and shortened the dead area so that one roller was always receiving power. You could also cut out about half of the plastic guide and insert part of a track pin if you prefer not to solder. I should note that this last situation did not occur uniformly on all of my O42 switches, probably due to lack of uniformity in dimensions within the switches.
Hope this helps.
Poppyl
Sekon56 wrote: Regarding the comment about being able to find the GEEPs at a better price from dealers than from the RMT website, I looked at a load of dealers I do online buying from and found a dismal selection and prices only about $5 cheaper than list. The website seems to have a very large variety to choose from, I'll say that.
Regarding the comment about being able to find the GEEPs at a better price from dealers than from the RMT website, I looked at a load of dealers I do online buying from and found a dismal selection and prices only about $5 cheaper than list. The website seems to have a very large variety to choose from, I'll say that.
So many different BEEPs have been made that the chances of finding the particular one you want at a dealer are probably pretty slim, unless you shop around a good bit. I guess about half of the BEEPs I have been bought from dealers, and you generally will get them at a lower price buying them that way.
However, the BEEPs are so inexpensive to begin with that I find it just as easy and more convenient to order directly from RMT most of the time. Might cost a couple of bucks more, but I really don't mind.
Depends on what roadnames you're looking for, I suppose. Plenty of dealers should have the popular roadnames available at about $50-$55 or so each, while you'll have a much harder time finding a P&LE version, for example, or some other more region-specific roadname. You might try JusTrains, in Delaware, to see what they have in stock.
alcofanschdy wrote: Will the Beeps handle 022 switches? I've heard yes and no. Can anyone give me another opinion? ThanksBruce
Will the Beeps handle 022 switches? I've heard yes and no. Can anyone give me another opinion? Thanks
Bruce
Oh my. I second this question. My interior line discussed above, where I would be running the BEEP primarily, consists of 072 and 022 traditional switches. If it can't do those, that would obviously be a serious problem.
Buckeye Riveter wrote:The best BEEP set up I have seen is Tom Schmidts. He has the Bethlehem Steel yellow and black BEEPS pulling the Lionel ore and hot metal cars that light up. It looks like something you would see at a steel mill.
The best BEEP set up I have seen is Tom Schmidts. He has the Bethlehem Steel yellow and black BEEPS pulling the Lionel ore and hot metal cars that light up. It looks like something you would see at a steel mill.
I have both the yellow and black Bethlehem Steel BEEP and the orange and black version, and bought a set of Lionel's Hot Metal Cars for just such use. They look great behind a BEEP. I'm careful to run only one or two of these cars with the BEEPs, though, because these are very heavy, die-cast cars and the BEEOP is a small and relatively light engine. But one at a time is good enough because that's what I saw often enough back in the 50s when I used to watch small switchers working the steel mills in Youngstown, Ohio. The public could get a great view of mill operations from the Center St. bridge, and it was a spectacular sight to behold. Of course, those mills--mile after mile of them for US Steel, Youngstown Sheet and Tube, Republic Steel, and others, are long gone now.
With traditional O27 cars such as the IR log cars, I have no problem with my BEEPs handling six cars and a caboose.
There are also a few well more than a few "Custom run" Beeps that are only available from those who commisioned them as well as a large selection in the RMT lineup.
And do not forget to check out the new Hoppers for this summer $49.95 for a set of two with loads and brake hose details they should be a big hit as well
Buckeye Riveter wrote: brwebster wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part. Buckeye,the traction tire could also be an issue if for some reason all outside rails are not properly grounded. I intially though this to be the case with my BEEP ( we'll blame it on the BEEP instead of Atlas switches ) but when I wired the BEEP to the roller pickup in a caboose the problem disappeared.Bruce WebsterBruce, I'm using MTH 0-72 Realtrax Switches and their automatic non-derailing feature turns the current off/on to parts of the switch. The BEEB only has the problem in one out of the six possible directions it traverses the switch, and that is at low speeds. I will assure you and everyone else that the outside rails are properly grounded. It is just an MTH switch thing. I bet if I were using a switch without the non-derailing feature there would not be a problem for the BEEP.
brwebster wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part. Buckeye,the traction tire could also be an issue if for some reason all outside rails are not properly grounded. I intially though this to be the case with my BEEP ( we'll blame it on the BEEP instead of Atlas switches ) but when I wired the BEEP to the roller pickup in a caboose the problem disappeared.Bruce Webster
Buckeye Riveter wrote: BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part.
BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part.
Buckeye,
the traction tire could also be an issue if for some reason all outside rails are not properly grounded. I intially though this to be the case with my BEEP ( we'll blame it on the BEEP instead of Atlas switches ) but when I wired the BEEP to the roller pickup in a caboose the problem disappeared.
Bruce Webster
Bruce, I'm using MTH 0-72 Realtrax Switches and their automatic non-derailing feature turns the current off/on to parts of the switch. The BEEB only has the problem in one out of the six possible directions it traverses the switch, and that is at low speeds. I will assure you and everyone else that the outside rails are properly grounded. It is just an MTH switch thing. I bet if I were using a switch without the non-derailing feature there would not be a problem for the BEEP.
Ah ha! Now I understand. Of course this too could be solved by grounding the engine to a second car. But then I understand the reluctance to do so. I sacrificed the "engine alone" running but gained the ability to crawl through any of my switches. Given the BEEP's nice low speed capability I thought the modification worth while.
Hi! See my pictures on "Sunday Photo Fun 1-28-07" I really like the BEEP.
Right now it is easily pulling three Lionel NYC Passenger cars. I did have it pulling five heavier traditional freight cars with little effort. This is a replacement. The original had a coupler problem and, instead of reparing it, Walter at Ready Made Trains had a brand new engine sent to me. Great customer service.
I cannot comment on any switch problem because my NYC line does not have any.
For my purpose and the $, this good looking little fellow is just fine (even though he goes a bit slower than I would like). Thanks for asking.
CSXect wrote: The Beeps run from $59 to $69 not bad for motive power I have the Chessie and the Corail versions and am saving up for an B&O Beep, Beef,Peeps, Buddy and cabooseI have no switches therefore no advice other than buy two and run them in a lash up Mine have pulled 5 post war cars with no problem they also pulled a set of MTH cars with very little complaint.
The Beeps run from $59 to $69 not bad for motive power I have the Chessie and the Corail versions and am saving up for an B&O Beep, Beef,Peeps, Buddy and caboose
I have no switches therefore no advice other than buy two and run them in a lash up
Mine have pulled 5 post war cars with no problem they also pulled a set of MTH cars with very little complaint.
Thank You!!
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Thanks. The real past difficulty with the 0-72s has been derailing cars; I have not noticed any motive power problems.
As someone said, for the price and IMHO the appearance it's a no-lose situation.
Unfortunately I don't have any Lionel 072 switches to test the BEEP on. The pickup rollers on the BEEP are spaced 2 5/32". If any of your own equipment has this close spacing and experiences problems on the Lionel switches then expect troubles with the BEEP as well.
We have the Lehigh Valley Snowbird paint scheme BEEP. We used it under the tree on an oval of track pulling K-Line Christmas and Polar Bear cars. It did not miss a beat and ran smoothly for hours at a time. Since it now has at least 24 hours of solid run time, it runs much better.
Another idea for a BEEP train is the Air Force BEEP pulling the Alien Transport Car.
I am a little concerned about the large switch issue, as I have two traditional Lionel 0-72 switches on my interior line. Given the comment above re the BEEPS and large switches, is there any reason to think that it cannot negotiate that switch effectively? Thanks.
I am not really worried about the low speed, as this engine will pretty much exclusively run on my interior line, which is ideal for low speed operation given it is traditional with 0-31 curves on it.
Thanks to all taking the time to share impressions of these locomotives.
Here's the Army unit I referenced earlier (there are othes, as well).
http://donsdepot.donrossgroup.net/dr0403/us1867.jpg
You'll always find some guys who don't like ANY item you may ask about--that's an absolute guarantee. That's why you need to make up your own mind after reading and mulling over the various comments and anything you may know about the personality and proclivities of the individual who posted the comments (if, for example, you've read a number of his posts over time)..
As for tight-curve operation: Do NOT believe anything you may read about current production BEEPs having any problem whatsoever negotiating a train through O27 curves. The first BEEPs made did have a slight coupler-swing problem (easily corrected) that caused the lead car in a train to derail, but ALL BEEPs currently available through RMT or most dealers are 100% free of that problem.
I can't speak to any problem with wide-radius switches. All of my switches are 042 or tighter, and I can attest that I have had absolutely no problem with BEEPs negotiating those switches.
The BEEPs I have in my collection were purchased from various sources, including directly from RMT. You will get a better price if you order from a dealer instead of direct, but you may need to shop around a bit to find the particular model you're looking for.
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