I had originally dismissed these as sort of Dinky Toys type of engines, but I do believe I am coming around on this subject. I can well see a neat combination of the Army Transportation BEEP and the Army caboose having a place on my layout.
What experience has anyone had with the BEEPs, pro or con? I would appreciate all comments on the issue - quality, power, graphics, derailing issues, etc.. Thank you very much.
If they weren't great little locomotives, and very affordable, I probably wouldn't have more than a dozen of them in my collection already. As a matter of fact, I received an e-mail from RMT's Walter Matuch just this morning advising me that my latest order--another Army BEEP and matching caboose--was heading my way today.
I've been trying to gently persuade Walter to do an Army BEEP in the solid red livery with white lettering and zebra stripes that is used on so many contemporary Army units, but haven't had much success with that effort yet. I'll keep trying!
Great little engines that are nicely done and that perform well--at least that has been my experience. Three of my favorite locomotives are the RMT BEEP, the K-Line Plymouth, and the Lionel Dockside. I obviously like the smaller stuff!
Mine stutters and balks until it warms up. Then it runs smooth as silk.
Jim
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
I remember seeing those at Potomac Yards in Alexandria during the runup and aftermath of the Gulf War in 1991.
Thanks to both of you for the information. I have always wanted an Army or Navy switcher combination - I very much like the PW gray Navy scheme - and this seems like just the ticket for about $100 total.
Alan, if you have that many you must indeed be well satisfied.
Is it best to order direct from RMT, or do you do something else?
They are less expensive if ordered from a dealer. I bought mine from Jim's Trains in Homer, PA.
I am probably the only guy here who doesn't like em. Got one when they first came out down at YORK. The couplers wouldn't turn on the curves and always derailed. Ended up selling it to a guy who didn't run trains but collected em. E-mail RMT twice, and never heard anything from them. Won't give you two cents for one.
laz57
laz 57 wrote: I am probably the only guy here who doesn't like em. Got one when they first came out down at YORK. The couplers wouldn't turn on the curves and always derailed. Ended up selling it to a guy who didn't run trains but collected em. E-mail RMT twice, and never heard anything from them. Won't give you two cents for one.laz57
laz, that IS disappointing. Thanks for the information.
RT FAN,
They say that they have fixed the problems and GIZ love em but I'm a little turn off.
My PRR version runs very smoothly and quietly at all speeds. I'm totally satisfied with my example although there are a few cons that others might complain about.
1) Low high speed. Upside of this is you will never flip one off the rails no matter how tight a curve.
2) Very little pulling power. Totally expected though. It's not a heavy engine and really starts laboring when connected to 3-4 PW cars
3) Doesn't like large switches. The close spacing of roller pickups makes them stall on 072 & #5 Altas switches. Hardwiring a lighted caboose together with the BEEP solved this.
I'll be a RMT repeat customer when I see some BEEF's in PRR livery at the LHS.
Bruce Webster
Bob Nelson
Don
I bought ours as an inexpensive locomotive the kids can run. I'm not much of a fan, although the details that RMT added are nice. The kids would go nuts if I ever got rid of it.
I greased the worm gears. Would that cause the bucking and stumbling when the train is "cold"?
Here's the Army unit I referenced earlier (there are othes, as well).
http://donsdepot.donrossgroup.net/dr0403/us1867.jpg
You'll always find some guys who don't like ANY item you may ask about--that's an absolute guarantee. That's why you need to make up your own mind after reading and mulling over the various comments and anything you may know about the personality and proclivities of the individual who posted the comments (if, for example, you've read a number of his posts over time)..
As for tight-curve operation: Do NOT believe anything you may read about current production BEEPs having any problem whatsoever negotiating a train through O27 curves. The first BEEPs made did have a slight coupler-swing problem (easily corrected) that caused the lead car in a train to derail, but ALL BEEPs currently available through RMT or most dealers are 100% free of that problem.
I can't speak to any problem with wide-radius switches. All of my switches are 042 or tighter, and I can attest that I have had absolutely no problem with BEEPs negotiating those switches.
The BEEPs I have in my collection were purchased from various sources, including directly from RMT. You will get a better price if you order from a dealer instead of direct, but you may need to shop around a bit to find the particular model you're looking for.
I am a little concerned about the large switch issue, as I have two traditional Lionel 0-72 switches on my interior line. Given the comment above re the BEEPS and large switches, is there any reason to think that it cannot negotiate that switch effectively? Thanks.
I am not really worried about the low speed, as this engine will pretty much exclusively run on my interior line, which is ideal for low speed operation given it is traditional with 0-31 curves on it.
Thanks to all taking the time to share impressions of these locomotives.
We have the Lehigh Valley Snowbird paint scheme BEEP. We used it under the tree on an oval of track pulling K-Line Christmas and Polar Bear cars. It did not miss a beat and ran smoothly for hours at a time. Since it now has at least 24 hours of solid run time, it runs much better.
The best BEEP set up I have seen is Tom Schmidts. He has the Bethlehem Steel yellow and black BEEPS pulling the Lionel ore and hot metal cars that light up. It looks like something you would see at a steel mill.
Another idea for a BEEP train is the Air Force BEEP pulling the Alien Transport Car.
BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Unfortunately I don't have any Lionel 072 switches to test the BEEP on. The pickup rollers on the BEEP are spaced 2 5/32". If any of your own equipment has this close spacing and experiences problems on the Lionel switches then expect troubles with the BEEP as well.
Thanks. The real past difficulty with the 0-72s has been derailing cars; I have not noticed any motive power problems.
As someone said, for the price and IMHO the appearance it's a no-lose situation.
Buckeye Riveter wrote: BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part.
Buckeye,
the traction tire could also be an issue if for some reason all outside rails are not properly grounded. I intially though this to be the case with my BEEP ( we'll blame it on the BEEP instead of Atlas switches ) but when I wired the BEEP to the roller pickup in a caboose the problem disappeared.
The Beeps run from $59 to $69 not bad for motive power I have the Chessie and the Corail versions and am saving up for an B&O Beep, Beef,Peeps, Buddy and caboose
I have no switches therefore no advice other than buy two and run them in a lash up
Mine have pulled 5 post war cars with no problem they also pulled a set of MTH cars with very little complaint.
brwebster wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part. Buckeye,the traction tire could also be an issue if for some reason all outside rails are not properly grounded. I intially though this to be the case with my BEEP ( we'll blame it on the BEEP instead of Atlas switches ) but when I wired the BEEP to the roller pickup in a caboose the problem disappeared.Bruce Webster
Bruce, I'm using MTH 0-72 Realtrax Switches and their automatic non-derailing feature turns the current off/on to parts of the switch. The BEEB only has the problem in one out of the six possible directions it traverses the switch, and that is at low speeds. I will assure you and everyone else that the outside rails are properly grounded. It is just an MTH switch thing. I bet if I were using a switch without the non-derailing feature there would not be a problem for the BEEP.
CSXect wrote: The Beeps run from $59 to $69 not bad for motive power I have the Chessie and the Corail versions and am saving up for an B&O Beep, Beef,Peeps, Buddy and cabooseI have no switches therefore no advice other than buy two and run them in a lash up Mine have pulled 5 post war cars with no problem they also pulled a set of MTH cars with very little complaint.
Thank You!!
Hi! See my pictures on "Sunday Photo Fun 1-28-07" I really like the BEEP.
Right now it is easily pulling three Lionel NYC Passenger cars. I did have it pulling five heavier traditional freight cars with little effort. This is a replacement. The original had a coupler problem and, instead of reparing it, Walter at Ready Made Trains had a brand new engine sent to me. Great customer service.
I cannot comment on any switch problem because my NYC line does not have any.
For my purpose and the $, this good looking little fellow is just fine (even though he goes a bit slower than I would like). Thanks for asking.
Buckeye Riveter wrote: brwebster wrote: Buckeye Riveter wrote: BEEPs have trouble negotiating the switches because of the traction tire. It depends which direction the BEEP heads into a switch and the gap that it needs to "jump". The roller always is getting power, but the wheels seem to have the problem. The problem would go away if the traction tire was not in place, but that is speculation on my part. Buckeye,the traction tire could also be an issue if for some reason all outside rails are not properly grounded. I intially though this to be the case with my BEEP ( we'll blame it on the BEEP instead of Atlas switches ) but when I wired the BEEP to the roller pickup in a caboose the problem disappeared.Bruce WebsterBruce, I'm using MTH 0-72 Realtrax Switches and their automatic non-derailing feature turns the current off/on to parts of the switch. The BEEB only has the problem in one out of the six possible directions it traverses the switch, and that is at low speeds. I will assure you and everyone else that the outside rails are properly grounded. It is just an MTH switch thing. I bet if I were using a switch without the non-derailing feature there would not be a problem for the BEEP.
Ah ha! Now I understand. Of course this too could be solved by grounding the engine to a second car. But then I understand the reluctance to do so. I sacrificed the "engine alone" running but gained the ability to crawl through any of my switches. Given the BEEP's nice low speed capability I thought the modification worth while.
Regarding the comment about being able to find the GEEPs at a better price from dealers than from the RMT website, I looked at a load of dealers I do online buying from and found a dismal selection and prices only about $5 cheaper than list. The website seems to have a very large variety to choose from, I'll say that.
There are also a few well more than a few "Custom run" Beeps that are only available from those who commisioned them as well as a large selection in the RMT lineup.
And do not forget to check out the new Hoppers for this summer $49.95 for a set of two with loads and brake hose details they should be a big hit as well
Buckeye Riveter wrote:The best BEEP set up I have seen is Tom Schmidts. He has the Bethlehem Steel yellow and black BEEPS pulling the Lionel ore and hot metal cars that light up. It looks like something you would see at a steel mill.
I have both the yellow and black Bethlehem Steel BEEP and the orange and black version, and bought a set of Lionel's Hot Metal Cars for just such use. They look great behind a BEEP. I'm careful to run only one or two of these cars with the BEEPs, though, because these are very heavy, die-cast cars and the BEEOP is a small and relatively light engine. But one at a time is good enough because that's what I saw often enough back in the 50s when I used to watch small switchers working the steel mills in Youngstown, Ohio. The public could get a great view of mill operations from the Center St. bridge, and it was a spectacular sight to behold. Of course, those mills--mile after mile of them for US Steel, Youngstown Sheet and Tube, Republic Steel, and others, are long gone now.
With traditional O27 cars such as the IR log cars, I have no problem with my BEEPs handling six cars and a caboose.
Will the Beeps handle 022 switches? I've heard yes and no. Can anyone give me another opinion? Thanks
Bruce
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