1950 Lionel Union Pacific O scale

[lionelsoni]

The fact that the train stopped when you tried to blow the horn is a hint that the trouble may be in the transformer; but try this first.  Look at the picture of the relay:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/locos/loc2023b.pdf

At the bottom edge, facing you is the relay contact.  Push it up with your finger to close it.  With a good D cell in the locomotive, the horn should blow.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok i  finally remembered the model of my transformer.  It is a 1033 multicontrol 95 watt.  I also have a smaller one that is a Loius Marks and Co. 50 watt Cat #1209.  I don't use the Louis Marks because it hums and vibrates.

The problem with the whistle on my trais is that it is missing.  It is supposed to be clear in the back isn't it?

I oiled all the cars lastnight and i must say the engine did run a lot better with them.  Another problem may be that i just have a small test track set up and the train with all the cars is over half the size of the track, so at all times the train is in a turn.

The problem with the buzzing in the e unit was my fault, it was just in neutral.  Once i oiled everything up the train will start and stop everytime without any help.  The E Unit does buzz quite a bit even when the train is moving but i am guessing that is normal.

[Jumijo]

If the motor runs every other time you turn the voltage up, the e-unit is doing its job and the buzzing is harmless.  Working on an e-unit is tricky; so, if it is working, I would leave it alone, buzzing or not.

Bob, I am getting ready to open up a few post war locos for cleaning and lubing. Before I do, I'd like to get your response to a few questions, if you don't mind.

I don't want to mess with the e-units, which seem to work fine. But I have thought about spraying them with tuner cleaner. Will the tuner cleaner harm the e-unit?

Armature shaft lubrication is some thing I've heard differing opinions on. Some recommend a drop of oil, while others recommend grease. Which do you recommend? Both sides should be lubricated, correct?

Jim

[lionelsoni]

If the e-units work, I would gratefully leave them entirely alone.  I use oil on shafts.  Many motors have wicks on the brushplates that are obviously meant for oil.

[Jumijo]

Thanks for the advice, Bob. I'll do as you say.


Jim

[Anonymous]

Bob,

 

   What are you thoughts on soldering the tracks together?

[lionelsoni]

I remove the pins and solder my track, which is O27-profile tubular.  I started doing it when I discovered how difficult it often was to get switches and track sections off the layout without ripping up long stretches.  I realized later that the soldered joints were much more reliable connections than the pins.  You can build a moderate-sized layout without any feeder wires if you solder.

Some folks leave the pins in and solder just for the electrical benefit.  Some, like me, solder the rails directly to each other, flowing solder into the railhead as well as lapping it over the flanges.  Some solder short pieces of bare wire from rail to rail.

[Anonymous]

Do you flip the track over and solder it inside the track or do you solder it on the outside?  If you solder it on the outside do you have to worry about it causing the train to derail?

[lionelsoni]

I clean the inside of the railhead (unless the track is brand new) and flow some solder into it, leaving it flush with the end of the rail.  I fasten the track down to the table with the rails butted together.  I reheat the rails and flow additional solder into the railhead as needed.  I make a little puddle on the flanges on each side and as far up the web as it will flow.  (The taper of the wheel flanges will let them clear a surprisingly large lump.)  If the rails are not perfectly aligned, I push the higher rail down with a screwdriver or other tool while the solder is molten.  I have a loose truck that I test the result with for smoothness.

I use the longest straight sections that I can get, to reduce the number of joints.  I prefer the K-Line 36-inch pieces.  Lionel also makes a slightly shorter piece.

[Anonymous]

ok, thanks.

I'm not sure if you saw my first post today or not about my transformer, it is a 1033 multicontrol.  Do you know where i can get knobs for it, the black one is missing?

[lionelsoni]

Here is the next Ebay auction, ending in about 10 hours:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Transformer-Black-Control-Handle-1032-1033-1232-RW_W0QQitemZ270053510307QQihZ017QQcategoryZ4146QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

He wants $2.59.  There are a couple of other auctions.  Search (without quotes) "lionel 1033".

[Anonymous]

Thanks so much for all your help.  I think that is all the questions i have right now, can you believe it?  Keep an eye out though, I'm sure i will have more later.

 

Thanks

 

John Gregory