O gauge R/C conversion (photos & description)

[FJ and G]

Jim, thanks for the additonal info.

Forgot to mention but as I was fixing myself a drink and fetching a bone for the hound, the battery pak and speed controller flew off the flat car (use a gondola!).

Well, the trooper SD-45 was pulling it along, dragging it over the Berber carpet. What a soldier!

( Who says model railroading is boring. I could make this a full-time hobby! Too bad I have to work to support my hobby!)

[Jim Duda]

I forgot about the Receiver battery pack you're not using - it will be perfect for your lights! It even has a switch to turn your lights On - Off. Try it with the bulbs already installed - it may be bright enough as is...if not, get some 6 volt rated bulbs since you have 4.8 volts available.

Remember to isolate your bulbs from the rest of the circuit to prevent damage to the Williams boards...

[FJ and G]

Thanks for the tip, Jim.

Doug,

Thanks, hopefully someone might be able to use this information. Just gives you more options with your toy trains and opens doors.

Dr. John,

I know whatchya mean. The tracks sort of look naked. And, one of my favorite effects were the blue sparks shooting off the rails, esp. at night. It's a compromise, for sure! I'll keep my 3 rails track at work tho. Need to keep the DCS for something!

[cnw1995]

This is a dream-come-true. Well done, Dave. I'm going to print this out to show to the boys at the R/C hobby shop who told me this couldn't be done.

[Jim Duda]

The Proboat Riptide ESC is the reason you have more speed forward than reverse since most R/C cars/trucks/boats favor more forward speed than reverse. 14.4 volts will be the maximum your ESC can handle...if you need more voltage the price of the ESC will increase.

You can just get another battery pack and connect them in series...but you'll have to charge them singly as you do now.

[Dr. John]

Dave -

Great work! You've certainly opened up a new avenue of train control for O gauge, whather indoors or outdoors.

I just don't know if I could give up the third rail to go with that unrealistic two rail track!

[FJ and G]

Oh, one more thing... someone asks, why not just use G?

There are 2 major reasons I chose O over G for outdoors.

1. Already have the trains

2. I can get more train per square foot (larger empire). O is plenty big for me!

Also, someone else asked me about the components. Here in brief:

1. Receiver/x-mitter- Ranger II N 2Ch am radio control system, made by HiTec

2. ESC is ProBoat waterproof ESC w/Reverse: by Riptide

3. power is Radio Shacks's R/C pack 7.2V power index 2000, 2000 mAh, Ni-Cd rechargeable battery pak, model 23-330.

#1 and 2 don't have website for b/c it's at work. Bought both from 2 separate sources.

Additionally, there's the 10 Amp fast blow fuse and holder from the metal drawers at radio shack. They also have wire connectors but I'm replacing those with something easier to connect and disconnect.

#1, #2, and #3 all fit nicely together.

Additionally, 8 batteries are needed (AA) to power the transmitter.

In the 3rd to the last photo, all of those components came with the x-mitter/receiver bundle. NONE of these are needed. I just showed them so you would know U don't need them. However, I did use them to test the transmitter/receiver to ensure it was functioning properly.

Instead, the ESC is connected with a 3-connector device into the throttle (channel 2) of the receiver. It is CRITICAL to get the proper orientation of wires. Fortunately, the receiver allows the ESC connector to only fit one way. Don't force it in the other way!

I'd be glad to answer further questions.

BTW, the 7.2V is adequate but I'm going to go up to 14 volts to get more power to the 2 loco motors.

[FJ and G]

Thanks, Paul,

In a misty rain it could be done (drizzle), but not rain, rain, same same for G scale stuff.

Thanks for compliment. The R/C stuff is so inexpensive because of the nature of the mass production that takes place as millions of folks run their stuff, so why not trains!

TMCC,

Thanks. I'll be up visiting my sisters in the York, Lancaster area around 8 April. I may be able to swing your way. Email me and I can wire it for you b/c you should be able to get all the components by then. You also need 8 AA batteries for the transmitter. I recommend rechargeables. We can discuss in great length.

Jim,

1. No. I would like to try the 14 V battery pak. The locomotive can haul a line of cars, but when it gets on the (admittedly) curvy test track, it tends to peter out (but keeps going, just gets ornary. My outside track, unlike the 042 test track, has 12 foot diameter curves!

In other words, more juice would be better. I may trade this 7.2V pak back in at Radio Shack for a larger voltage pak. Also, I'd like to buy better wire connectors that don't take any effort to disconnect.

2. Slowest speed is about 5 smph, about the same as U get if you wire in series. That is completely satisfactory. Interestingly, the max speed in forward is about twice that of reverse. I can't account for that.

3. The transition is really smooth! As for sounds, there is the neat whine of the motors that almost sounds like dynamics kicking in in the 1:1

I'm sure I'll have much more info as time passes, but just 1 day has passed!

Thanks, Jim, we'll be in touch, I'm sure.

[Jim Duda]

Bravo Big Dave!

Here's what I'm curious about:
1. Is it fast enough with the 7.2 Volt battery pack?
2. How is the slowest speed performance?
3. Is it a smooth transition from "Off" (neutral) to the first speed increment in forward and reverse?

Paul - if he can seal the locomotive against water and the car that houses the receiver, he could run in the rain...water / snow / bird chit, etc. on the tracks is a non-issue as in full size trains.

Powering up the headlight might be as simple as wiring it to the motor...you could also dedicate a small battery pack through a switch which would give you constant brightness and wouldn't be affected if the loco was running or not.

Lashups could be as simple as bringing the motor leads out to a connector outside the shell and simply connecting the locos together. The speed controller is capable of handling 30 amps @ 7.2 VDC continuous and that is LOTS of can motors...whether the wheels turn at the same speed in all your locos would be the only concern.

Thanks for being brave enough to try this...it'll be an interesting thread to follow!

[tmcc man]

Dave, nice job. If I sent you an engine, could you wire it like that for me?

[pbjwilson]

Very cool Dave. I like the range factor, that you can control from just about anywhere. What about the elements. Can you run in the rain? I was playing with my G gauge outside yesterday in the cold. Cleaning the track was a real pain. And now with the track being outside for 6-7 years the railjoiners are my main problem. I like what you are doing. Could be the "new wave" in O gauge.

My son and I yesterday - sunny but COLD.

[FJ and G]

Yesterday, I successfully converted my first locomotive to a new type of "command control" system used by millions of Americans, but almost nonexistant among toy train operators: remote control or R/C, not command control like DCS, TMCC or DCC which depends on rails for power or signal but R/C like that used for model boats, airplanes and racing cars everywhere.

I will show some photos and diagrams, try to explain the process in simple English, and give what I think are the pros and cons of doing this procedure. First, I want to make it clear that I'm an electronic klutz, so if I can do the
conversion, anyone can. Without the help of Austin, Texas resident Jim Duda, none of this would have been possible. We spent time emailing and on the phone, as he walked me through the procedures step by step. Thanks, Jim.

Now for the pros and cons. Keep in mind that I made the conversion less than a day ago so the information I'm providing will be incomplete, as there are many more tests to run and it is likely I will be experimenting with new types of R/C gear in the future, so I plan to use this thread to give updates (which might occasionally be few and far between, as I'm also building my outdoor layout simultaneously).

Here are some factors to consider when deciding if R/C is right for U:

If you have a layout already wired and are happy, this procedure is probably not for you; especially if you already are using some type of command and control system.

R/C conversion isn't free, but neither is it expensive. The 3 main components: 1. onboard battery pak with charger; 2. transmitter/receiver; and 3. electronic speed controller or ESC; cost, all together, about $100. It is possible with just this gear alone, to power all of your trains, including even the Beep and Plymouth Switcher and 0-4-0, if a trailing battery car is used (converted boxcar, gondola, etc).

TIme of installation is also a factor. Once U know how to do the procedure, however, it should take less than an hour per locomotive; perhaps even 15 minutes.

Warranty invalidation might be a showstopper for many. Althought the procedure is safe, some manufacturers might not honor your warrenty.

The R/C conversion doesn't necessarily mean that you can't go back to conventional or your own command control system.

All of the rewiring can be done with wire connectors or wire locks so that you can simply reconnect. Also, the rollers can easily be put back on under the trucks.

The batteries you'll be using can easily be recharged. I ran the train, an SD-45 Williams, on the test track for hours, with no apparent loss of battery juice.

Here are some of the benefits I've found to using R/C:

U can run your trains on 2- and 3-rail track. If you look at one of the photos, you can see that my test oval includes 3-rail and 2-rail track modified from 3-rail. The train doesn't know the difference. And outside (last photo) U can see the train happily cruising along on 2-rail code 148 rails. Now, let me be clear that I didn't go to R/C to get rid of the center rail. There are other reasons which I will explain, to include saving money on rails, since I can use the center rail to extend my outdoor garden railroad. However, for those who'd like to go to 2 rails but don't want to buy all new 2-rail equipment, the R/C conversion will allow U to make the transition seamlessly without spending money for new gear.

Derailments: On my test track, I put a long string of cars and had a "stringlining" type of derailment. Normally, I hear the click of the transformer as it shuts off and perhaps some sparks on the rails. Not with R/C! I could simply put the loco back on the track and continue on without resetting the power pak. If you have a bit of mischievous "Gomez" in you, you could even stage an accident, and have the locomotive continue down the embankment or through the cornfield, as the wheels will keep moving the beast even after it leaves the rails!

Dirty track is no longer a concern since R/C is not dependent on track power. For me, this was the clincher to going R/C, as I'm setting up an outdoor layout. Even G scalers must continually clean their track if they are using track power. I'm just too lazy. I'd rather run trains instead! That said, it is still a good idea in O gauge to ensure there's no debris that could be picked up by the gears and into the motor, as the gears are sitting low and exposed. In other words, more precautions than G-gauge trains definitely must be taken when running outdoors (if that is what you intend to do).

Range: this is unbelievable. Freaky, actually. The supplied antenna wire is still tightly wound in a coil. I never once unwound it. Using my transmitter, I signalled commands to the train from all over the house, in the backyard to the house and down the street a ways. The signal penetrated the house walls at great distances and I successfully was able to make the train do its reverse, forward and neutral movements!! Heck, I can now be upstairs in my bedroom, looking out the window, controlling my trains. Perhaps plowing snow!

And, if the neighbor's model airplane or car violates my air space, I can intercept that too!

Portability. U now can take your trains camping or on a picnic, set up the track anywhere U want and run them without plugging them in. The sense of freedom is really empowering. It was awesome when I first ran the trains without any juice to the rails. It seemed like the real deal!

All of that messy track wiring is now a thing of the past. No transformers. No problems with power losses thru the turnouts, etc etc. Heck, you even can run your trains on the 2-rail coal unloader track supplied for toy trains.

Having given the pros and cons, I have to say I've got a lot to learn yet. I made the train go forward, reverse, and neutral, but as darkness came, I would have liked the lights to come on. I expect that this will be fairly easy to do, as there is another port on the reciever that will allow additional wiring for other functions, such as the light.

There is, btw, tons of room inside the WIlliams SD45 to install ALL of the gear so I don't need a trailing battery car.

I'm currently undecided as to what I want to do with that. Also, if I want to do lashups, I will need to study up on that some. Obviously, it is easy to do with dummy locos. So, I'm just starting out here and there's much left to do.

Now, a bit about installation:

Actually, I'm getting pretty tired from typing so will explain in greater detail sometime this week, using the accompanying photos and diagram. But basically, there's the transmitter, which looks like a boom box in the photo and is used to control model planes. I'm just using the left control, which snaps back to neutral (spring loaded). If I don't want to hold the box, I can set the trim tab and the locomotive will stay at constant speed. THis works in forward as well as reverse.

The receiver contains the antenna and plugin device for the battery pak. The battery pak itself connects to the ESC (electronic speed control) unit, which actually is used for model boats (so I'm combining model boat and plane controls).

The electronic speed control has 2 wires coming out which run to the blue and yellow wires (see diagram) that connect the tops of the 2 motors in the Williams unit. You will probably want to disconnect all other wires. So, the tether between the battery car and locomotive consists of just 2 wires. I put a fast blow 10 amp fuse inline on one of those wire just to be safe.

Well, I'm getting back to running trains! I'll provide in-depth details on the conversion later, if anyone is interested.