American Flyer

[marxalot]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Sturgeon-Phish

The help is on track. Check brush length and spring length. Brushes at least 3/16"; springs 3/4" max. Commutator should be bright and shiney with out heavy scratches. They can be cleaned up with very fine emory cloth and the ensure the segments are clean. If an excessive amount of oil was applied to the oil wick that will prevent the motor from operating properly. If the commutator end is oily clean it and clean the bru***ubes as well. Also check the motor end bushing for proper seating. It has orientation grooves that if not inserted correctly will raise the bearing surface and cause a problem.
Doug at Port Lines is great to do business with.
Let us know how the 300 comes along.
Jim

Okay, I had disassembled the siderods so we're only dealing with drivers and motor. I carefully lubed the gear box and checked for free rotation, had it. I then removed the brushes. They were 1/4" and oily. I cleaned them and the holders. I
reinstalled them and then the motor would bind when rotated in one direction indicating to me I had put a brush back differently from what it was. But then I said, hey let's take this armature out and look at it. I did and of course found the worm gear at the end of the shaft just plugged up with dried grease. I cleaned it and wiped off the commutator. It is scratched but hey, it was scratched and running before, that is probably why all the sparking. I reassembled everything putting a brush back wrong again but I could tell by the binding which one it was and so pulled back the spring and rotated it 180 degrees... Great, free rotation of the armature in either direction. But when applying 15 volts ( I got the Simpson out and checked the old Marx power supply) the armature just rotates until the brushes are across the gap between the commutator plates. That's it. I can assist in rotating etc. but nothing really happens except for the armature getting into that position. What is a little wierd is that I can only get this small rotation when applying voltage right to the brushes. When I connect to the normal input terminals and bring the reverse unit into play, all I get is the reverse unit working. nothing happens at the motor..........

I think I've eliminated rotational binding as a problem; the brushes and commutator while not great do not seems to be that bad. I have pressed in on the brush springs too and that didn't make any difference...... When connecting directly at the brushes could I be backfeeding into a short elsewhere that is drawing power?? Or whatever else anyone has to offer.... I'm ready to try about anything!

Thanks for your time...................


Jim

[marxalot]

Wow! I find myself responding to ME! Scary........ but trains will do that. Okay I sat down and drew a Thevin's Equivalent circuit and performed Kirchoff's voltage drops to locate the problem....... yeah right! Well I measured a bunch on continuities and then started applying that good 15 volts from the Marx supply. Finally the 300 took off in reverse.. and almost scared the baloney out of me! I let it run then it stopped.... I kept slapping the voltage to the unit and it started again, then stopped. Finally I poked around on the fingers on that reversing switch and we were off to the races! In forward...... So I need to get those finger replacements I've seen at some A-F parts site. Any recommendations for the one with the fastest delivery! Thanks for hanging in there with me!


Jim

[hugoroundhouse]

When you look at the contact fingers in the tender, make sure they are perpindicular ("straight") on the drum. Even if they are cocked to the side just a teeny bit, they will not make proper contact with the copper on the drum.

You do want to be careful with the WD-40 as another respondent advised, but there are times when the only thing that will cut that dried up grease is some kind of solvent. Just make sure to wipe everything down after cleaning it and then re-lube.

I noticed the reference about the Talking Station record. I recently got one for $9.95 along with the plate and needles from Triple S Trains.
They are also good to deal with for parts, as is the Gilbert Guru Co.


Triple S --- www.ssstrains.com
Gilbert Guru --- gurubrands.com


Have fun!
Jim E. [8D]

[tomg54]

does any one know who sells a steam chest for a gilbert 0-6-0 ? I tried port lines and they are sold out. thanks tom

[Poppa_Zit]

Try Fred Jester at Fred's Train Parts. His email is:

[e-mail]

Also, Vince Amato at Hobby Surplus Sales:

http://www.hobbysurplus.com/trainrepairparts.asp

Good luck.

[Sturgeon-Phish]

The March CTT has a GREAT article on maintenance for a 4-8-4, cleaning lubing and minor repair. Page 44.

[tomg54]

QUOTE: Originally posted by puttlagger

Try Fred Jester at Fred's Train Parts. His email is:

[e-mail]

Also, Vince Amato at Hobby Surplus Sales:

http://www.hobbysurplus.com/trainrepairparts.asp

Good luck.

[tomg54]

Thanks will give them a try. tom

[marxalot]

Thanks for the direction to Portlines. I received the upper and lower finger assembly for the reversing relay, installed them, and the old AF 300 is running fine! If I understood the parts listing, this unit was made in 1946 as it has the brush assembly matching that year. So this unit is 60 years old! With its new contact fingers, brushes, a good cleaning and lube I'd say it is ready for another 60!

It looks a little rough but the owner justed wanted it operating again. I'm glad to have helped him...............with your help.

Thanks again.

Jim

[Poppa_Zit]

QUOTE: Originally posted by marxalot

Thanks for the direction to Portlines. I received the upper and lower finger assembly for the reversing relay, installed them, and the old AF 300 is running fine! If I understood the parts listing, this unit was made in 1946 as it has the brush assembly matching that year. So this unit is 60 years old! With its new contact fingers, brushes, a good cleaning and lube I'd say it is ready for another 60!

It looks a little rough but the owner justed wanted it operating again. I'm glad to have helped him...............with your help.

Thanks again.

Jim

Many Flyer steamers have their manufacturing month and year stamped in white paint inside the boiler unit, usually on the underside of the cab roof. You can also tell what year a 300 is by the style of crosshead gear and the arrangement of screw holes cast into the boiler. You gotta give old AC Gilbert credit -- his trains were designed well and have lasted all these years, even though they were only toys.

[CSXect]

[8D][8D][8D] If you like flyer and S scale check out the following


http://www.s-trains.com

http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/groupee/forums

for last site scroll down to S scale forum. [8D][8D][8D]

[steamerlynn]

I have my original Royal Blue set from 1947. The locomotive is being restored. Have a room with S-Helper track,and a mix of S-Helper and American Models products. I love my Gilbert K-5 and 302 Atlantic,as they run and look great! Also have a barrel loader. Lynn