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Smoke Article/ CTT, It could have been better!

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Posted by ChiefEagles on Saturday, June 18, 2005 7:48 AM
Jamie, some of us "mix" it. JT's in and then some Lionel. Haven't tried mixing it in the bottle yet. If you mod the units, they are going to burn more anyway.

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Posted by CSX FAN on Saturday, June 18, 2005 5:18 AM
I was wondering which fuild to use? I was getting leary of the JT that seamed to burn off too quick with the JT's although I like the lighter smoke than MTH's. I had used Super Smoke in the past with my lionel's.

Has Lionel changed there smoke? I heard the LGB is good also. But thought there were issues with it.

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Posted by Kooljock1 on Friday, June 17, 2005 8:18 PM
Well I'm three for three now on backwards spinning smoke units. I've fixed my LionMaster T-1, NYC RS-11, and now I'm re-doing my LionMAster J3a.

What really amazes me is that LIONEL engineers designed a fan to spin counter-clockwise, and installed it in an air-chamber designed for clockwise rotation of the air-flow.

How does that happen?!?!

In any event, the results are really spectacular.

Thanks,

Jon [8D]
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Posted by Jumijo on Friday, June 17, 2005 5:45 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by ChiefEagles

. . .Also we find it smokes better with JT's and then a few drop of Lionel added with it. . . .


I'll second that. I think a blend gives optimal results. The Lionel fluid adds to the duration, or time between having to fill up again. It makes it more robust too.

I tried JT's and wasn't impressed. The smoke wasn't as dense and didn't last very long. When I mixed it with Lionel's, it made a noticable difference. For what my opinion is worth, I think Lionel's smoke fluid is as good if not better than any other brand. I don't know if they've changed it somehow, but I recently bought a bottle and it seemed to perform much better than the last one. It's all I use now.

Jim

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Posted by ChiefEagles on Thursday, June 16, 2005 8:01 PM
Well, I had two today that I thought I had drowned. Found out they needed more fluid. They burn it up fast. I'm adding about twice as much as before the modification. Even the dummy slowed up. I said the heck with it. Added a whole drooper full of JT's and it smoked up a storm.

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Posted by CSX FAN on Thursday, June 16, 2005 2:16 PM
Trust me you can put to much fuild in!!! [xx(]
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 8:24 PM
On the wick [batting to some Yankees], have not had to replace one. Too much fluid, can blow down the exhaust and it will come out or just wait and let it evaporate or hit CAB1 9 some until it burns it out [don't hold it too long at one time]. Not going to hurt to have too much. I find that it takes a lot more fluid as it is burning more and thus its gone. Buckeye and I load it up with about 6 or 8 drops of after a long run [and still smoking good] after we shut it down. Also we find it smokes better with JT's and then a few drop of Lionel added with it. You'll have to judge by the unit and how much it burns it out.

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Posted by laz 57 on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 7:31 PM
CHIEF a question on the batting? When the smokes starts to slacken how many drops should I put in? Will this hurt the smoke element if there is too much fluid? When do you put new batting in?
laz57
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Posted by Kooljock1 on Wednesday, June 15, 2005 6:59 PM
I just finished the fix on my LionMaster T-1. WHAT A DIFFERENCE![:D]

I'm now getting almost MTH quantity and "loft" out of the stack.

Question: if the smoke production is significantly less when the engine is running, does that signify that my old KW is being over-drawn on power? I am running seven K-Line Streamliner FOM cars behind the T-1, add in the two motors, plus a freight on the adjacent track...

Well anyway, thanks for the heads-up CTT!

Jon [8D]
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 1:46 PM
Why does it take Yankees so long ot learn? Sounded like he did not beilive me. [:D]

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Posted by laz 57 on Tuesday, June 14, 2005 12:11 PM
Removed the sleeve last nite on the SD80 and is smoking up a storm.
laz57
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Posted by CSX FAN on Monday, June 13, 2005 10:13 PM
Drained out the excess fuild and all are working well. 4 for 4 on the reversed fans. I used an MTH wick and works well. The other unit weren't scorced so I had less work to do with them.

Thanks for the Tips ***
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Monday, June 13, 2005 8:24 AM
Jamie, I use plain old pink fiberglass insulation for wicking. If it get charred, guess what? Find it around the house. I pack some in and make sure it does not block the air flow [slot from fan area to heat area] slot. Then I bend down the element [it usually has an S shape on each end where it is attached to the board. I make sure it touches the fiberglass insulation. This allows the wicking ot furni***he smoke fluid to the element [since the sleeve is now gone]. The sleeve was to wick up the fluid form the wick and give the element a complete circle of fluid. Not the best material in the world to do that. One reason to chunk it.

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Posted by CSX FAN on Sunday, June 12, 2005 4:09 PM
Thanks ben

I have found three of three reversed. After I reverse I've only got one unit to smoke because it was new. I need to try the tooth pick, the new unit was clogged with stuffing material and blocked the vent hole. So try and cut off the wick as directed above?

A quick check would be to take a piece of tissue paper and put the edge on the smoke stack. there is enough air movement that will blow it up if it is right. The backward one will just sit there.

I have found on all of my units the red wire should be on the outboard side of the smoke unit for proper direction.

Is this tip as good as the DCS light bulb trick?[:D]

Does CTT host photo's on this forum? If so how do you do it?

Jamie
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Posted by ben10ben on Sunday, June 12, 2005 3:31 PM
You'll be fine if you cut the sleeve off. The wicking will char, but it's much, much easier to replace than the sleeve is, and won't cut off the oil supply to the element when it does.

Another good suggestion from the famous OGR forum member Norm C. is to stick a toothpick down the stack and pu***he wicking around until you get the maximum amount of smoke. This allows you to achieve by trial and error the best combination between airflow and heater area.

I still think that American Flyer units had the best design for an element with a piece of nichrome wire wrapped around a two foot long bundle of fiberglass. The American Flyer unit had two separate chambers, one to hold the majority of the wick and smoke fluid(resevoir) and the other directly above it to hold the heater part of the wick and have air blow directly across it.
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Posted by CSX FAN on Sunday, June 12, 2005 3:01 PM
***

great artical! I could follow the idea no problem.I'm sure I'm going to find all of my fans backward since none of them work anymore. The funny thing is that I returned my EM-1 because the smoke quit after ten minutes. They gave me a new smoke unit and it died also.

I found the unit reversed on my J and found the sleeve to be very charred. yet the resivor was full.

I have to ask the same question as Laz did. Do you cut the sleeve off and leave it off? will it burn something up if you do? I don't have a sleeve laying around. The unit can work if I put drops on it but it woun't when I reassemble it. I scraped alot of the carred surface off but I think it needs to go.


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Posted by laz 57 on Thursday, June 9, 2005 7:52 AM
GOOD IDEAR GIZ,
laz57
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Posted by Buckeye Riveter on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 8:28 PM
Chief and I discussed why a better smoke unit couldn't be designed based upon how an outboard motor has a oil reservoir.

If I were Lionel and of course I wanted to make more money from all of us who want more smoke, I would make the reservoir an interchangable Lionel Smoke Bottle. Remove the empty bottle and then insert new bottle much like we put ink into our printers.

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Posted by ChiefEagles on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 6:51 PM
Good thinking Jock. Buckeye and I discussed the same thing. Now Buckeye and I want to know why these smart engineers do not come up with a better smoke system. A reservoir of smoke fluid and a dispersing system like oil injected motorcycles and boat engines. Then none of this guessing about how much fluid to put in, when to add it, is it scorching the wick due to not enough fluid and so on. OH WELL, in the future.

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Posted by Kooljock1 on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 2:28 PM
Silly as this may seem, I now open my new engines before I even run them on my layout, just so I can cut off the silly sleeve. Even a small amount of running with the sleeve on can scorch and melt it to the element so badly that it reduces smoke production.

Which begs the question: why do they use it in the first place?!?!??

I mean, the element is supposed to heat the fluid right? And the fluid is supposed to cool the element, right? So LIONEL places a barrier between them?!?!?

I just don't get it.

Jon [8D]
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Posted by Jumijo on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 9:45 AM
Thanks, Chief. Much clearer now.

Jim

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Posted by ChiefEagles on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 9:11 AM
jaabat, yes. Ben's use of an exacto knife is great. I keep a very sharp pointed pocket knife with very shrap blade, so I used that. Most folks don't so the exacto is great. The sleeve is over the element. By sliding the point between the element and the inside of the sleeve, you cut outward and in a straight line all the way across the sleeve. If charred, you have to peel it off of the element. If not charred, it will just slide off. Object is not to damage the thin wire wrapped around the element body. Hope this explains it better.

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Posted by Jumijo on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 8:56 AM
I'm a little confused by the cutting instructions Chief and Ben have discussed ("cut straight across to the outside [not from the outside inward] as not to damage fine wire on element"). Are you guys saying to cut the sleeve lengthwise from one end to the other? Parallel to the elelment wire it wraps around?

Ben, your K-Line had it's wires reversed like all the Lionel's?

Jim

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Posted by laz 57 on Tuesday, June 7, 2005 7:49 AM
Do you leave the element bare then?
laz57
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Posted by ben10ben on Monday, June 6, 2005 6:43 PM
To remove the sleeve, I use a fairly sharp(although not necessarily new) #11 Exacto blade cutting straight across as Chief describes above with the pocket knife. I prefer the Exacto blade as the narrow, sharp tips allows you to get in closer to the element without worrying about damaging it.

As for the article, I looked at my K-line Trainmaster, reversed the fan per the directions, and it's smoking up a storm now too. I hadn't run it for a while, and the wick was bone dry. A dropper full of JT's Mega Steam(Vanilla) took care of that quickly.
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Monday, June 6, 2005 5:37 PM
Very sharp pocket knife. Do not cut into the element. Mine is very sharp pointed. Start point in the end and cut straight across to the outside [not from the outside inward] as not to damage fine wire on element. They are smoking up a storm. Does take a lot of soaking as I found out I was runn ing mine too dry. Had one stop and put out only a small amount. Thought I had over filled. Took it down to see. Was too dry. Now I flood them with 12 or more drops when they drop back in output. Smoke away in a few minutes. Buckeye lets his sit over night after loading up.

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Posted by MartyE on Monday, June 6, 2005 12:54 PM
If you have small enough scissors and some patience then cutting it off is the best way to go.

Trying to update my avatar since 2020 Laugh

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Posted by laz 57 on Monday, June 6, 2005 12:10 PM
How do you remove the sleeve? Do you have to cut it off or do you use the solder iron?
laz57
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Posted by laz 57 on Monday, June 6, 2005 8:33 AM
CHIEF are you and BUCKEYE saying that if you remove the sleve on the coil wire you will get more smoke production?
laz57
  There's a race of men that don't fit in, A race that can't stay still; Robert Service. TCA 03-55991

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