The Lionel part number for those pins is supposedly 610-2948-016, although their web site doesn't admit that they exist. It's not difficult to reshape either type of track to mate with the other type of pin, however.
Bob Nelson
DOUG: Thanks for the "Heads-up". I've used Homasote a long time but I might just take a look at the product.
does anyone have an idea?
ok I am back again this time its about a crossing, I bought this and it wont lower or come up I put it together correctly and I see how it works but it wont. does anyone know how to fix it?
http://www.bonanzle.com/booths/keeperscollectibles/items/Lionel_Mechanical_Crossing_Gate__6_2309_in_Box
traindaddy1 Try: Home Depot or the local lumber store. Head for the "cull" section. Sometimes you can get a "good" deal. If you use plywood, I think that 1/4" thick covered by Homasote board will do OK. (Only my opinion) Another idea: (Perish the thought that I should even mention it ) "Dumpster Pads" Neighborhood construction sites - ask permission - are also sources.
Try: Home Depot or the local lumber store. Head for the "cull" section. Sometimes you can get a "good" deal. If you use plywood, I think that 1/4" thick covered by Homasote board will do OK. (Only my opinion)
Another idea: (Perish the thought that I should even mention it ) "Dumpster Pads" Neighborhood construction sites - ask permission - are also sources.
Instead of homasote I prefer a different product, from the same maker, called sound board or sound stop. Holds screws better but the best part is that it's cheaper. Believe it's a 4' x 8' compressed paper product kinda like ceiling tiles. I use it on my seasonal layouts.
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I found that i'll make the track work. becuase 1 all the track was on sale for about a dollar each (I love k-line) and that I ordered it online so I'll just keep it.
Good advice from Mr. Nelson. If it were me, I'd go back and try for an exchange. I think, at this stage of the project, "to adjust" is just too much to do. (BUT, that is just my )
You will also find that the track sections are larger, the curves slightly gentler, and the track 1/4 inch higher. Any or all of this could make your layout design hard to put together. You can spread the end of a O27 rail with a screwdriver inserted from underneath, force an O31 pin (or a 7/64-inch drill bit or punch) in, then recrimp the rail around the larger pin. You can also shim up the O27 track to match the height of the O31. I would take the track back and try to exchange it for O27. Even if the store just replaced it piece-for-piece with no refund (O27 is cheaper), it would be worth it to avoid the hassle of trying to mix types of track.
ok i'm back again, I had o27 track and bought just o track, and I see now that the pins in o are very large and may not fit into o 27 track, does anyone know a way to maybe expand the holes or something? or anything
You can screw your track directly to plywood, which is what I do. Some folks don't like the noise that this produces; others, like me, don't mind it at all. If you're setting your plywood directly on a carpet, I would think that would go a long way toward reducing the noise.
I'm back with another question, first I am planning on a 4x6 (or 5) one now and the question is I am on a budget, and it looks like Styrofoam will set me back a $100, is their a cheaper material? or could I build everything without a base on my plywood.
Yes I'll probably use coasters.
traindaddy1 Hi! So far, all great advice. "Been there, done that!" A question: How will you get to and store the layout? Will you just be pushing it on the floor under the bed or will you be using casters? If casters, you will have to allow for the height. You may want to consider a few of those pads that are advertised for moving furniture. Good luck with your project. Keep us updated and keep those questions coming.
Hi! So far, all great advice. "Been there, done that!"
A question: How will you get to and store the layout? Will you just be pushing it on the floor under the bed or will you be using casters? If casters, you will have to allow for the height. You may want to consider a few of those pads that are advertised for moving furniture. Good luck with your project. Keep us updated and keep those questions coming.
Good suggestion ! These are called "Moving Men Furniture Sliders". I have used them to move a king size bed, mattress, box spring, and all as well as fully loaded triple dressers.
http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/Movingmen.html
Alton Junction
The wise young man 8 inches but I have bed risers I will probably make because I just ordered a graduated trestle, I how to do a cross over type thing.
8 inches but I have bed risers I will probably make because I just ordered a graduated trestle, I how to do a cross over type thing.
I am using the Lionel graduated trestle set on my layout and the problem I forsee on your 3' x 5' layout is not having enough room. The incline requires a minimum of 8' of track to elevate high enough to crossover the track and then needs 8' on the decline. The second difficulty with using a graduated trestle when using conventional engines is that you have to constantly manipulate the throttle, increasing power when on the incline and decreasing power on the decline. There are ways to aleviate this problem but it will require a little bit of electrical knowledge. Of course if you are using modern engines with automatic speed control, you won't have as much of a problem.
dsmith The Thortrains website has lots of intersting layout ideas for 3' x 5' that utilize 027 track. http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027a.html http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027b.html
The Thortrains website has lots of intersting layout ideas for 3' x 5' that utilize 027 track.
http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027a.html
http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027b.html
I call the Thortrains web site Old Faithful. You can always find all kinds of layout ideas there.
ok that clears the rest up thank you
I have used track clips, they clip under 2 of the ties and hold the track together. On a small layout with track clips you can get away without fastening the track down, however I think it would be better to forget about the track clips and screw the track down with tiny screws. 1/2" plywood, would work fine for an under the bed layout.
On small layouts I would definitely stick with 027 track and switches. The 27" diameter curves will give you the most versatility and allow you to do the most within a tight space. Also, pick small engines and short freight cars and most of all...have fun!
I would not nail the track down-- I'd use #2 wood screws instead-- 1/2" long should be sufficent--
A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted
Use screws, not nails, and pre-drill the holes. I use number-4 x 1/2 inch sheet-metal screws into 3/32-inch holes. If you're using track clips, don't. They're for floor layouts and unnecessary for track attached to plywood.
ok I just have one more question about nailing track. I tryed with o-27 track with the holes between the rails and I got it to rail level then I couldn't get it down anymore, am I doing it right? any tips, I was nailing it to wood.
The Wise Young Man,
It looks like RT handled it all. Good Luck with the project.
John
Ok thanks for that, Looking at designs I may go to a slightly bigger size.
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