Hello,
I am a first time writer long time railroader, and I would like to make a small layout. I have been into trains for 9 years now, I am looking to build a 3 x 5 layout on plywood to put under my bed. I am very good at creating track layout plans, but What I have no Idea about is how to like nail the rail to the wood. and how do track clips work, I mean the name says what it does but I need just some help with this. I would like to build a 3x5 with grass and trees, maybe building. So what should I use as a base (plywood?) and how to nail down the track,
Thanks
The wise young man Hello, I am a first time writer long time railroader, and I would like to make a small layout. I have been into trains for 9 years now, I am looking to build a 3 x 5 layout on plywood to put under my bed. I am very good at creating track layout plans, but What I have no Idea about is how to like nail the rail to the wood. and how do track clips work, I mean the name says what it does but I need just some help with this. I would like to build a 3x5 with grass and trees, maybe building. So what should I use as a base (plywood?) and how to nail down the track, Thanks EDIT- ok I was looking around and would buying some track bed help?
EDIT- ok I was looking around and would buying some track bed help?
Well first off 3' wide your limiting your use to either O27 or O31 track now you could use the O42 like off a switch to a siding or something but not as your main curves of your loop as they would be about 4 or 5 inches of the board on each side if you centered it. now to nail/screw your track to the board /track bed depends on what you use some use 2" Styrofoam glued to the board and than screw/nail into it to be honest I haven't gotten that far yet but thats the basics yes you can get rubber road bed and glue it to the board then screw into it or nail into it but remember if you go thru all the way into the board the sound will fallow the nail/screw and basically defeat he purpose of roadbed
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Ok thanks for that, Looking at designs I may go to a slightly bigger size.
The Wise Young Man,
It looks like RT handled it all. Good Luck with the project.
John
ok I just have one more question about nailing track. I tryed with o-27 track with the holes between the rails and I got it to rail level then I couldn't get it down anymore, am I doing it right? any tips, I was nailing it to wood.
Use screws, not nails, and pre-drill the holes. I use number-4 x 1/2 inch sheet-metal screws into 3/32-inch holes. If you're using track clips, don't. They're for floor layouts and unnecessary for track attached to plywood.
Bob Nelson
ok that clears the rest up thank you
I would not nail the track down-- I'd use #2 wood screws instead-- 1/2" long should be sufficent--
A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted
I have used track clips, they clip under 2 of the ties and hold the track together. On a small layout with track clips you can get away without fastening the track down, however I think it would be better to forget about the track clips and screw the track down with tiny screws. 1/2" plywood, would work fine for an under the bed layout.
On small layouts I would definitely stick with 027 track and switches. The 27" diameter curves will give you the most versatility and allow you to do the most within a tight space. Also, pick small engines and short freight cars and most of all...have fun!
The Thortrains website has lots of intersting layout ideas for 3' x 5' that utilize 027 track.
http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027a.html
http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027b.html
dsmith The Thortrains website has lots of intersting layout ideas for 3' x 5' that utilize 027 track. http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027a.html http://www.thortrains.net/marx/3by5027b.html
I call the Thortrains web site Old Faithful. You can always find all kinds of layout ideas there.
Alton Junction
8 inches but I have bed risers I will probably make because I just ordered a graduated trestle, I how to do a cross over type thing.
The wise young man 8 inches but I have bed risers I will probably make because I just ordered a graduated trestle, I how to do a cross over type thing.
I am using the Lionel graduated trestle set on my layout and the problem I forsee on your 3' x 5' layout is not having enough room. The incline requires a minimum of 8' of track to elevate high enough to crossover the track and then needs 8' on the decline. The second difficulty with using a graduated trestle when using conventional engines is that you have to constantly manipulate the throttle, increasing power when on the incline and decreasing power on the decline. There are ways to aleviate this problem but it will require a little bit of electrical knowledge. Of course if you are using modern engines with automatic speed control, you won't have as much of a problem.
Hi! So far, all great advice. "Been there, done that!"
A question: How will you get to and store the layout? Will you just be pushing it on the floor under the bed or will you be using casters? If casters, you will have to allow for the height. You may want to consider a few of those pads that are advertised for moving furniture. Good luck with your project. Keep us updated and keep those questions coming.
traindaddy1 Hi! So far, all great advice. "Been there, done that!" A question: How will you get to and store the layout? Will you just be pushing it on the floor under the bed or will you be using casters? If casters, you will have to allow for the height. You may want to consider a few of those pads that are advertised for moving furniture. Good luck with your project. Keep us updated and keep those questions coming.
Good suggestion ! These are called "Moving Men Furniture Sliders". I have used them to move a king size bed, mattress, box spring, and all as well as fully loaded triple dressers.
http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/Movingmen.html
Yes I'll probably use coasters.
I'm back with another question, first I am planning on a 4x6 (or 5) one now and the question is I am on a budget, and it looks like Styrofoam will set me back a $100, is their a cheaper material? or could I build everything without a base on my plywood.
You can screw your track directly to plywood, which is what I do. Some folks don't like the noise that this produces; others, like me, don't mind it at all. If you're setting your plywood directly on a carpet, I would think that would go a long way toward reducing the noise.
Try: Home Depot or the local lumber store. Head for the "cull" section. Sometimes you can get a "good" deal. If you use plywood, I think that 1/4" thick covered by Homasote board will do OK. (Only my opinion)
Another idea: (Perish the thought that I should even mention it ) "Dumpster Pads" Neighborhood construction sites - ask permission - are also sources.
ok i'm back again, I had o27 track and bought just o track, and I see now that the pins in o are very large and may not fit into o 27 track, does anyone know a way to maybe expand the holes or something? or anything
You will also find that the track sections are larger, the curves slightly gentler, and the track 1/4 inch higher. Any or all of this could make your layout design hard to put together. You can spread the end of a O27 rail with a screwdriver inserted from underneath, force an O31 pin (or a 7/64-inch drill bit or punch) in, then recrimp the rail around the larger pin. You can also shim up the O27 track to match the height of the O31. I would take the track back and try to exchange it for O27. Even if the store just replaced it piece-for-piece with no refund (O27 is cheaper), it would be worth it to avoid the hassle of trying to mix types of track.
Good advice from Mr. Nelson. If it were me, I'd go back and try for an exchange. I think, at this stage of the project, "to adjust" is just too much to do. (BUT, that is just my )
I found that i'll make the track work. becuase 1 all the track was on sale for about a dollar each (I love k-line) and that I ordered it online so I'll just keep it.
traindaddy1 Try: Home Depot or the local lumber store. Head for the "cull" section. Sometimes you can get a "good" deal. If you use plywood, I think that 1/4" thick covered by Homasote board will do OK. (Only my opinion) Another idea: (Perish the thought that I should even mention it ) "Dumpster Pads" Neighborhood construction sites - ask permission - are also sources.
Instead of homasote I prefer a different product, from the same maker, called sound board or sound stop. Holds screws better but the best part is that it's cheaper. Believe it's a 4' x 8' compressed paper product kinda like ceiling tiles. I use it on my seasonal layouts.
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ok I am back again this time its about a crossing, I bought this and it wont lower or come up I put it together correctly and I see how it works but it wont. does anyone know how to fix it?
http://www.bonanzle.com/booths/keeperscollectibles/items/Lionel_Mechanical_Crossing_Gate__6_2309_in_Box
does anyone have an idea?
DOUG: Thanks for the "Heads-up". I've used Homasote a long time but I might just take a look at the product.
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