ModelRailroader.com Reader Poll -November 20, 2003

[Bergie]

If a manufacturer were to provide numbers with their unnumbered locomotive models, would you prefer dry transfer numbers or decals? Please vote then share your comments below.

Polls on Trains.com are not scientific and reflect only the opinions of the users who have chosen to participate. The results cannot be assumed to represent the opinions of Internet users in general, the readers of our magazines, nor the public as a whole. Bottom line, our polls are meant for fun and to stimulate conversation amongst our forum users.

[cacole]

I know there must be a trick to applying dry transfers that I haven't learned, because I have never been able to get them to stick, or they break apart, when applied according to the instructions that come with them. Decals require a little more work to get them to adhere properly, but they don't tend to break apart as easily as the dry transfers. Maybe the dry transfers I have tried to use were too old and dry? The dry Arizona climate is probably not good for them, either, as far as long-term storage is concerned.

[vsmith]

Decals, Decals, Decals... Dry transfers can be a hugely royal pain in the ..well, you know...to install, especially in tight places like number boards on the sides of a PA-1 for example. Wet decals work FAR better in those circumstances plus wet decals can be moved around prior to final placement, drys, it one time only.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by vsmith

Decals, Decals, Decals... Dry transfers can be a hugely royal pain in the ..well, you know...

With you all the way on this one

Jon

[Anonymous]

Decals as they apply faster than dry transfers. But only so long as the numbers are printed on a decal sheet that includes a coat of the body color. (The same princible as accurail) I have done my fair shair of decaling in the past and I find that if that color coat is not applied, hiding the decal film is a royal pain in the but.

I have also used my fair share of dry transfers. So here is a tip for all those wondering why they cant seem to get them work. To get them to stick propler, after removing them from the carrier sheet, one needs to go over them with the fixer sheet, (That funny piece of tissiue paper provided in the package). This works the tranfer into the surface of the model and provides a protective layer for the dry transfer until a clear coat can be applied.

I hope I have been helpful today. [8D][8D][8D][8D]

[Anonymous]

I use dry transfers all the time for both electronic projects and modeling and find them to be easier to apply. For those having problems with them sticking use the fixer sheet and press - not rub - with a pencil eraser. Dry transfers will fill into rough surfaces and look like they were painted on, where decals will not.

[tomwatkins]

I'd prefer decals for this.They would be easier to work with in the tricky areas such as number boards, steam domes and so on. I think it's a really good idea and I'd like to see it done.

Tom Watkins

[bbadger]

I have used both and would chose dry tranfers without hesitation. On a flat surface like a steam locomotive cab or tender, it can be hard to hide the edges of a decal. Dry tranfers leave only the number. They might not be so intimidating if the manufacturer supplied extra numbers in case of error.

Bill

[ajpaschal]

I have never had a lot of success with the dry transfers. I always end up with only a portion of the transfer adhearing to the model. In addition, I think that applying very small dry transfer numbers to things like number boards would be very difficult.

[relucas]

I would like to see decals. If done right ,it looks good.

[Anonymous]

For cab or hood numbers, I'd prefer dry transfer because you want something that will match the pad-printed look without having to over-coat wet-slide decals to hide the film.

Take for example, the HO Scale Kato C44-9 or Athearn SD70. For cab numbering, dry transfer are superior finish.

In the old days of dry transfer, you would end up get a series of numbers, 0,1,2,3,4...9 and you would have to paste each one. Modern decal designers draw the cab numbers in whole and with the correct spacing.

Smart designers provide ruling on the printing so in the case of the SD70, you align the rule line with the cab hortizontal and eye ball the center - then you have the correct position vertical each time and it's straight.

I have some Kato C44-9 CNW units that I used Microscale decals some. Microscale decals are very nice because of the limited flim, but what about digits like 6 and 9 - you have the flim in the oval parts and without doing the overcoat they are noticable.

However, for the number boards, I generally perfer the wet-slide because of difficulty in placement, smaller area.

Each have their points.

Tony

PS. if anyone some of a good dry transfer printer for custom decals please let me know.

[bruce22]

prefer transfers

[Anonymous]

Decals definitely. I have had trouble lining up dry transfers to get a straight line. Seven out of eight letters or numbers will be straight but that eigth one will be just a little off.


Dave

[Anonymous]

I've heard this for at LEAST five years now........This is a great idea, even if you think you are not capable we all MUST know someone who would apply numbers for you in EITHER format.

[JoeUmp]

Transfers for me.

The secret to dry transfers is to burni***hem down FULLY. Watch the letter as you burnish it down. You will see that it turns from readily readable to almost invisible when it has been properly applied. And don't lift up on the carrier until you have completely applied the transfer.

And take your time.

Joe

[Anonymous]

I have used both dry letter transfers and decals. With a little care I find that applying a dry letter transfer and then setting it with a dullcoat spray is far superior to having to fiddle with decals. I believe that many people have problems with dry letter transfers because the transfers are old and do not affix properly. If the new locomotives come out and the transfers are applied in a timely fashion I am sure that most people would opt for the dry letter transfers.

[Anonymous]

I did not vote on this one. I am new to model railroading, but have had success with decals while building airplane models, etc.

However, I have no knowledge about dry transfers. I would be very greatful if someone would explain what dry transfers are, and how they work? :-) Thanks (Perhaps a future article for MR)!

Also, how does the factory, say Athearn for instance, do the lettering (and flags on some models)?

Thanks to all who replied or will reply regarding this topic.

Bob

[Anonymous]

I am back again.

I just wanted to say that I would prefer the idea of being able to apply my own numbers, from a range of numbers provided on decal or transfer, so that I can easily match the numbers on prototype photos that I have.

Bob

[proberts]

dry transfers all the way..easy to use ..look great..look like they are painted on...what more can you ask for?

[ralphb]

I prefer number decals for ease of application, especially positioning as a wet decal can be maneouvered into position before it dries. Dry transfers have stretched and letteres split during the rubbing process. I even applied dry transfer letters for a free-lanced railroad to decal film.

[eastcoast]

In my opinion, decals are easier to use .

[Anonymous]

I think decals would be GREAT! It would let you put the number of the loco that you want to model! And a lot easier to creat a fleet! I hate buying a whole decal sheet just to renumber and engine.
Paul H. Liddiard

[gmpullman]

I have had great results with DRY TRANSFERS. Almost all model locomotives come with a flat finish and the decal film is tough to hide and I hate to paint Gloss Cote, then decal, then Dull Cote, now my finish is TOO THICK and details are lost.
I position the dry transfer and hold it in place with a tiny piece of Scotch transparent tape, I just use a slightly dull pencil as a stylus, it shows where you have rubbed. I rub lightly first over the whole transfer, then go back over with a heavier rub. If a small section happens not to stick, I reposition the transfer and rub again. Be sure not to have any finger oils on the surface.
Finally use the backing sheet and rub again with the pencil to seal down the edges.
Get some Woodland Scenics sign sheets and practice with those on the side of a building, even if they tear, it still looks realistic!
Thanks.

[Anonymous]

Dry transfer, absolutely no question. I don't model modern era so the old style numbers look superb with dry transfers and wooden slat backgrounds.

[Anonymous]

Since I model in N-scale I would definitely prefer decals, especially for doing the numberboards. While I'm a fairly patient modeler, sitting there lining each individual number up would drive me crazy. Also, I'm not sure they make dry transfers small enough to do N-scale numberboards.

[cmurray]

I've had more success with dry transfers. When applied correctly, they have no decal-type film to hide. I've also had some miserable failures with transfers. If they are old or dried out, they tend to break apart and the adhesive doesn't stick. Actually I no longer use commercial dry transfers because I make my own using a system called Chromatec. That being the case, mine are always fresh.

[Anonymous]

Dry transfers are great.Unfortunately they are more difficult to apply.Not much room for error.It would be helpful if they were printed on a graph like paper that would assist in applying and insure proper alignment.Armand

[Anonymous]

Interesting to read the discussions, as it appears that there is a good split in opinions. I believe in using the best tool for the job.

For me (!) dry transfers are the way to go on cab and body sides. With experience they get easier. Others have supplied the same good advice as I have. Test the sheet on a similar surface; often the manufacturers information on the edge of the sheet can be used for this without wasting a number. Everything should transfer evenly. Completely, obssesively burnish each letter/number. You can see it separate from the film. Use low adhesive tape to hold the carrier in position so it doesn't slide around while burnishing. Burnish again with the backing paper. I also use a white pencil to draw a baseline; it comes off easily later. And you can dry fit the letters and mark positions with the same pencil to get even spacing. If you really want perfect spacing, I trace the letters with tracing paper to get the spacing I want and then transfer marks to the model.

All this sounds like a lot of work, but for me its easier, looks better and is less messy than decals. But it becomes second nature when you become comfortable working in the medium of dry transfers.

All this - and I believe decals are better for number boards.

DJ Lutz

[Anonymous]

I've used them both, and each has their place.

If you have a flat, clean, glossy surface and nothing to obstruct the application, Dry Transfers win (as long as they havent aged more than a couple of years). Anything else, and it's decals. The trick to either is prepping the surface before you begin, and overcoating after you've applied them. Threr's nothing more irritating than re-railing a unit on the ground and having your decal/transfer come off on your fingers.

[Anonymous]

Dry transfers all the way for numbering and lettering!!!

When used correctly they are much easier to work with than decals.

Also if an error is made they can be easily picked off and reapplied, as long as you haven't burniched then down
with the finish sheet.


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