Edit post

Edit your reply below.

Post Body
Enter your post below.
Interesting to read the discussions, as it appears that there is a good split in opinions. I believe in using the best tool for the job. For me (!) dry transfers are the way to go on cab and body sides. With experience they get easier. Others have supplied the same good advice as I have. Test the sheet on a similar surface; often the manufacturers information on the edge of the sheet can be used for this without wasting a number. Everything should transfer evenly. Completely, obssesively burnish each letter/number. You can see it separate from the film. Use low adhesive tape to hold the carrier in position so it doesn't slide around while burnishing. Burnish again with the backing paper. I also use a white pencil to draw a baseline; it comes off easily later. And you can dry fit the letters and mark positions with the same pencil to get even spacing. If you really want perfect spacing, I trace the letters with tracing paper to get the spacing I want and then transfer marks to the model. All this sounds like a lot of work, but for me its easier, looks better and is less messy than decals. But it becomes second nature when you become comfortable working in the medium of dry transfers. All this - and I believe decals are better for number boards. DJ Lutz
Tags (Optional)
Tags are keywords that get attached to your post. They are used to categorize your submission and make it easier to search for. To add tags to your post type a tag into the box below and click the "Add Tag" button.
Add Tag

Update Reply

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Model Railroader Newsletter See all

Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!

Subscriber & Member Login

Edit post

Post Body

Tags (Optional)

Subscriber & Member Login

Users Online

Search the Community