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Piano hinge lift up

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Piano hinge lift up
Posted by ladyrailroader on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 7:18 PM

I remember reading a couple of years ago about a layout with a piano hinge on a lift out section so you could avoid crawling under.  Could not find it on a search, does anyone remember the layout name or author?

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Posted by mlehman on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 7:33 PM

I don't, but would note a hinged liftout can be a mixed blessing. When you open it, it's still attached to the layout. It will come to rest roughly upside down on other scenery; both may be delicate. They open hinged liftout will also block access to roughly 25% of the perimeter of the access hole it covers.

I have a bunch of liftouts and all mine are loose and simply plop down where the rest. Once they are lifted, then they're clear of the layout and out of your way. Mostly, they're on a pink foam base, so are plenty light enough to handle easily.

Mike Lehman

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Posted by doctorwayne on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 8:19 PM

Welcome to the MR Forums, ladyrailroader.

I don't recall the article you mention, but it sounds to me as if you're referring to a lift-up section at an entry point to the layout room, rather than a remote access hatch to get at a hard-to-reach area of the layout.
The piano hinge idea sounds pretty straightforward, and would require a permanent guide at the layout edge where the free end would rest, to ensure consistent alignment of the track when the lift-up is in place.  It would also be a good idea to add a "rest" at the hinged end, to prevent having the opened section resting on the layout.  A postion somewhat beyond vertical would suffice to keep it off the layout, yet unlikely to fall closed while someone was passing through the opening.

I used straight lift-outs at my room entrance (two-level layout)...

...and their ends simply nest within U-shaped brackets at both ends:

 

Wayne

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Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 8:19 PM

I went with 24” x 24” x 2” thick styrene foam for my lift outs.  They’re strong and light.  I have one 24” x 48” x 2” glued to ¼” thick plywood and it works OK but even using Hydrocal it is pretty heavy and even worse it’s heavier on the far end.  I made it so that it slides out.  It’s not heavy enough that it requires help to remove it but it ain’t easy because most of the weight being on one end.
 
I agree with Mike about using a hinge, I’m so clumsy I’d break stuff opening it.  I had a friend that used a hinge but he let the module hinge down and he was happy with that.  I’m old and crawling under is not an option anymore.  Two of my removable sections lift out and the biggie slides out.  All three have power wired to them and I use micro connectors to disconnect everything.
 
 
EDIT:
I use my removable sections for maintaining the sections not for access.  I guess I misunderstood the original post.
 
 
Mel
 
 
Modeling the SP in HO scale since 1951
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
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Posted by "JaBear" on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 8:37 PM
Gidday,  Welcome to the forum.
While it’s not the article you’re looking for, here are some previous discussions on lift outs/ hinged sections......

Cheers, the Bear.Smile

"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."

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Posted by maxman on Wednesday, July 8, 2015 10:02 PM

mlehman
a hinged liftout can be a mixed blessing. When you open it, it's still attached to the layout. It will come to rest roughly upside down on other scenery;

Everyone is assuming that the hinged piece will either lift up or drop down.  The article I remember attached the hinge such that the moveable section opened like a door.

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Posted by hon30critter on Thursday, July 9, 2015 12:10 AM

ladyrailroader

Welcome to the forums!     Welcome

I'm sure it will be mentioned in the articles that Bear recommended, but you should think about having a section of rail on either side of the opening that goes dead when the lift out is not in place.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by mlehman on Thursday, July 9, 2015 9:04 AM

maxman
Everyone is assuming that the hinged piece will either lift up or drop down. The article I remember attached the hinge such that the moveable section opened like a door.

The term liftup seems to imply vertical movement of some sort, so presumed that was the OP's situation. Swingout may be a more precise term for one that opens like a door, i.e. horizontal movement, but I can see it covered in a generic sense by liftup or liftout, too.

More info from the OP might clarify the problem she's trying to solve.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by ladyrailroader on Thursday, July 9, 2015 11:16 AM

Thank you to all of you who provided me with help, things to think about and the idea that while redesigning my layout this may not be the best plan.  I will rethink the options before going this route to see what the alternates to my track plan will be.  I know I would be the one driving my loco right off the edge if I forgot to install a track power kill switch. Smile

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Posted by mlehman on Thursday, July 9, 2015 12:51 PM

Sounds like Wayne was right, you're looking for something to carry track across the aisle. In that case, a hinge makes much more sense. It locates one end and helps with getting the wiring to the moveable part. I'll note that Wayne provided some good examples that liftout without a hinge, so you still don't necessarily need hinges on it, just that hinges are favored by many for several reasons in this application.

I've seen examples that swing horizontally and that drop down that were hinged. Making them swing up is trickier without outset hinges that raise the pivot point enough so you don't crunch the rail against itself.

Did a bit more searching in the index here and found a citation in Jeff Wilson's 2002 book from Kalmbach, Basic Model Railroad Benchwork, of the chapter "Duckunders, liftouts, and swinging gates: Options for gaining access to your layout,"which might be useful.

The index is handy to have available and can be found by clicking on Resources in the upper right corner of this page, but here's the direct link:

http://trc.trains.com/magazineindex

Mike Lehman

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, July 9, 2015 7:34 PM

I did this exact thing on my layout.  Some items to guard against:

Tracks should be straigt across the gap the hinge spans, otherwise the rails on the lift bridge hit the roadbed.

The lift out needs to be not warped (mine currently is twisted, i used a scrap piece of 1/2" AC plywood).  I am working on redesigning it to better hold its shape.

If you have the opportunity, go to a relatively large model train show, and see how the different modular model train clubs have solved lift brige issue.

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Posted by wabash2800 on Friday, July 10, 2015 12:03 AM

IIRC, Gary Hoover did an article on a lift up that lifts up and then swings over (and drops down?). Also, Tony Koester did an article on a large section with a backdrop that lifts up and swings out to access his laundry area. Billy Darnaby also did an article on one on his layout that is curved (though that section of track might lift out in a corner of his layout). I seem to recall a special article (in Model Railroad Planning?) that showed various solutions.

There is a new manufacturer who is selling such items but also just the hardware if you want to do it yourself and save the money.

http://www.engineeredlayoutsystems.com/

Victor A. Baird

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Posted by mlehman on Friday, July 10, 2015 8:35 AM

Yes, a hinged liftup can be done, but it's just a little trickier than the alternatives of swinging down or out. The hinge point must be at or above the top of the rails when they cross the hinge point, which IIRC was the issue that was overcome in several of those installs. Otherwise, it's crunch time on the track when you try to open it. Pencil out a sketch if that's not quite clear.

Mike Lehman

Urbana, IL

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Posted by steemtrayn on Saturday, July 11, 2015 10:43 AM

Another solution to consider:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Bob1LR301E

A little pricey, maybe, but perhaps you could build one yourself.

 

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