Track

[cheese3]

Flex track all the way. My HO layout is sectional and runs ok with a few problems but i started my new N layout and used flex. There is so much freedom with flex track and i have no problems at all!

[grayfox1119]

You can glue the track down, no holes to drill.

[mustanggt]

I use code 83 atlas flextrack in HO, kato unitrack in N. the only thing I don't like about the code 83 is that you have to the drill nail holes through the backs of the ties.

[howmus]

For me there is no contest! Flex track has less electrical problems, and is much more prototypical looking when laid. Snap track is too straight, too perfect a curve (no lead in) and too prone to electrical faults. Besides its more fun to cut and fit the track exactly where you want it. I have hand laid code 70 track and built my own turnouts back in the early 80's and consider that a lot of fun and very satisfying when you get it right. I may still do some hand laid sidings as I enlarge my layout. What ever you use, remember to have FUN!!!

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gvdobler

Jonathon

This thread is rather old. What track did you end up using, and what were the results?

Jon - Las Vegas

Jon,

I've been using EZ track. Works great so far. I have been thinking about switching over to Atlas True Track, as I've heard the roadbed isn't hollow and the track can pop out of the roadbed.

As for the EZ track, I've only set it up on the carpet. I expect operation will be much smoother once I set it up on a harder surface.

[Train 284]

I like to use a combination of both

Matt

[Anonymous]

I use snap track for everything but the long straight stretches and a few odd places where the sectional stuff wouldn't quite fit together. If and when I decide to build a new layout, I'll probably go with flex as much as possible, with sectional turnouts.
I think sectional and EZ track is especially helpful to someone who needs experience laying track. I imagine I would have wasted a lot of flextrack if I had gone that route the first time around.

[selector]

Old forum, but relevant topic.

Mouse, I'm with you on this. My turnouts are all EZ Track, and it was a mistake...hands down. I have no other experience, though, and cannot say what I would change to...maybe Tortoise sounds good due to more prototypical switching.

[NZRMac]

Kiwitrain [#welcome] to the forum from a fellow Kiwi!!

I've never used easy track, I use flex track for my whole layout, I'm sure if you ask the guys again (post a new topic ) you'll get all the replies you need.

Enjoy!!
Ken.

[gvdobler]

Jonathon

This thread is rather old. What track did you end up using, and what were the results?

Jon - Las Vegas

[SpaceMouse]

For all you EZ track users and want to's. I have 17 EZ track turnouts on my layout. At any one time 2 will not be working. I've filed the joints, tops, points, frogs, and then do it again the next week.

If you want a layout with few turnouts, go with EZ track. IF you want a lot of options, look for something else. I'll never use it again.

[Anonymous]

I only use sectional track on a few curves. Most of it is flex-track. For the people using EZ, isn't the sound amplification incredible? i imagine, after ballasting, that hollow plastic roadbed would generate a lota noise there.

[grayfox1119]

I have used both. I use EZ-Track for a seasonal display that is disassembled each year, so that is a no brainer. But for permanent layout, Flex-track is the way to go. And if you like the click- clack of rails joints? Just leave a gap and jumper under the table if that suits you. There is just too much freedom of layout with flex track to go any other way as far as I'm concerned.

[Anonymous]

i have easy track bachman can i connect atlas to it for a large layout cheers

[orsonroy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bazango

Oh guys. Please help me. I think that the click-clack of the wheels hitting the track joints is one of the things I am modeling. That is all lost with flex-trak. Am I wrong? I have spent a great deal of money, drilled hundreds of rail-joiners to run solder into joints where it won't be seen, just to preserve the breaks in the track. Am I alone? It would be so much easier to finish my layout (around my entire basement) with flex-trak. But prototype railroads don't have 100-yard jointless sections! Am I being radical? Someone please give me a reference point!

Thanks for any help,

SB

If you're modeling any time after railroads perfected welded rail, the joints should only be about ONE MILE apart! (about 60 feet in HO, not some measley 3 feet). And if your rolling stock has plastic wheels, forget about enjoying the "clickety-clack", 'cause there ain't none.

Definitely go with flex track, which is more reliable than any other track on the market, and offers more possibilities in track arrangement. If you want the sound effects of wheels on track, go with all-metal wheelsets (which also have the added benefit of not depositing as much gunk on the railheads, keeping your track cleaner). In general, the natural joints every 3' or so, coupled with the metal wheels will give you a pleasing sound. If you REALLY want to put joints every 39 scale feet (the length of a real piece of track, take a file and add partial joints to the tops of the rails (I personally don't like this technique because of dirt buildup, and because the gaps are too wide to be prototypical).

[Roadtrp]

Another EZ track fan here. As a beginner, I wouldn't think of using anything else -- especially in 'N' scale where there is so little tolerance for track flaws. [:)]

[BRAKIE]

I use flex track..I also use snap track for the areas where I need to use a short piece of track..That way I do not have to cut a piece of flex which saves my flex track for other needs.

[CP5415]

I have a combination of both on my layout.
I prefer to use flex-track though.

Gordon

[sparkingbolt]

I use Micro Engineering Flex track in code 70 and 55 for my ho layout. Turnouts are hand laid.

When you learn to hand lay switches you can put them even in curves, or build them to any degree of angle you need for a given sitch. Combining this with handlaid or flextrack allows a far greater amount of lattitude in designing your layout. Dan

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bazango

Oh guys. Please help me. I think that the click-clack of the wheels hitting the track joints is one of the things I am modeling. That is all lost with flex-trak. Am I wrong? I have spent a great deal of money, drilled hundreds of rail-joiners to run solder into joints where it won't be seen, just to preserve the breaks in the track. Am I alone? It would be so much easier to finish my layout (around my entire basement) with flex-trak. But prototype railroads don't have 100-yard jointless sections! Am I being radical? Someone please give me a reference point!

Thanks for any help,

SB

I thought about the same thing on the realistic clickity clack on the rails. My first layout had some flex track on it & what I did to get the realistic sound was use my dremel tool with a cutting disc. You have to take it slow & touch the rail lightly with the disc & try to make very small nicks in the rail to get the sound. Run a car across the nick until you are satisfied with the tone of the joint. Try not to make the nick too wide, It does take a while to do it right but the outcome can be very rewarding. I have screwed up some rail at times, But live & learn.

[Anonymous]

Oh guys. Please help me. I think that the click-clack of the wheels hitting the track joints is one of the things I am modeling. That is all lost with flex-trak. Am I wrong? I have spent a great deal of money, drilled hundreds of rail-joiners to run solder into joints where it won't be seen, just to preserve the breaks in the track. Am I alone? It would be so much easier to finish my layout (around my entire basement) with flex-trak. But prototype railroads don't have 100-yard jointless sections! Am I being radical? Someone please give me a reference point!

Thanks for any help,

SB

[Anonymous]

Whilst I'd like the time to handlay track, I use flexitrack all the way, cos I just dont think sectional track curves look right. I like to ease into a curve, thus preventing a lot of derailments.

Jon

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Grayhound Challenger

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy
That's what I was thinking about using.[:)] Did you ballast it? And If so was it hard[?].

EZ-Track would not be hard to ballast. Just get some of your choice brand of ballast and apply. However On the two display layouts I have made, I have not ballasted it becaseu the roadbed already has decent ballast detail. OH and if your running your big boys on EZ Track, you better get some of those 33 and 35 inch radius curves now avialable.

James.

Did you use the nickle siver roadbed or the black roadbed?

[Anonymous]

Handlaid all the way, just looks more realistic to me... but, again, thats just me. I have seen some great things with handlaid track, flextrack, and sectional track. Like someone said above, whatever the situation dictates.

Matt

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Grayhound Challenger

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy
That's what I was thinking about using.[:)] Did you ballast it? And If so was it hard[?].

EZ-Track would not be hard to ballast. Just get some of your choice brand of ballast and apply. However On the two display layouts I have made, I have not ballasted it becaseu the roadbed already has decent ballast detail. OH and if your running your big boys on EZ Track, you better get some of those 33 and 35 inch radius curves now avialable.

James.

33 inch![:0] Wow. The other people I talked to said I only needed 26 inch...

[JeremyB]

I use E-Z Track too, I love the stuff I know, I know, Its not prototypical but I like It I wish It used Code 83 though and not the chunky code 100.

[Anonymous]

I lay my own track, strip rail (code 70), wooden ties, spikes and balast, I also build my own turnouts.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by 4884bigboy
That's what I was thinking about using.[:)] Did you ballast it? And If so was it hard[?].

EZ-Track would not be hard to ballast. Just get some of your choice brand of ballast and apply. However On the two display layouts I have made, I have not ballasted it becaseu the roadbed already has decent ballast detail. OH and if your running your big boys on EZ Track, you better get some of those 33 and 35 inch radius curves now avialable.

James.

[Anonymous]

Depending on your layout plan, you may also have to trim sectional track to make it fit properly...

Andrew