What's your favorite paint remover?

[pike-62]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Robpar

I tried that old standby, brake fluid, and it took the surface shine off the model, the lettering. I let it soak for an hour, scrubbed it with an old toothbrush, but most of the paint stayed on. I flushed the shell completely afterwards to remove any brake fluid residue.

Perhaps a little chemistry lesson is needed here. Automotive brake fluid comes in two types now. One is silicone based and I doubt that it will remove anything. The other type, the most common, is alcohol based which is why it works to remove paint so well. The only thing I do not like about it is the additives that are put in there may affect the plastics. I use 91% rubbing alcohol on almost everyting I repaint now. This is the same alcohol as isopropyl dry gas I believe. For years I used to use a cleaner product called Simple Green. This would work well on some models and only "clean" others.

Dan Pikulski
www.DansResinCasting.com

[Jetrock]

Lots of discussion about plastic--what works best when removing paint from brass? I have a brass Birney trolley that looks like it was painted with a house painter's roller and want to strip it down to bare brass!

[randybc2003]

I've always gone the "soft" route - I found that Pine-Sol seems to work for me. That and a toothbrush. When rinsing the "soaked" model, use more Pine-Sol. Haven't seemed to have any damage problems.
Tried Micro Sol once or twice to remove lettering. Haven't mastered that tech. yet.
May try some of the ideas sugggested here.

[Anonymous]

I use 91% alcohol and Scalecoat stripper most of the time. For particularly stubborn paints, I use good ol' Easy Off Oven cleaner, from a technique I read about years ago in Railroad Model Craftsman. Spray the shell down with a good coat of Easy Off, and seal it up in a plastic bag or tightly-sealed box. Let it set overnight, and scrub it with a toothbrush under warm water and dish detergent. Works almost every time.

[Anonymous]

Castrol Super Clean!!! I had mentioned this a few days ago but I guess NOBODY READS! I have stripped LLP2K locomotives right down to the bare plastic with absolutely NO damage what so ever. With some brands it will only take the lettering off. Wear latex gloves and use a Ziplock type plastic container and an old toothbrush. Spray it on and let it sit for awhile. -Jack.

[Anonymous]

My favorite is Chameleon. I've stripped every kind of shell I can think of, and it's the only thing that works EVERY time![:D]
The secret, keep it out of the air. If it sits in an open area too long, it loses its potency.
Get a rectangular, sealable plastic container, and the Chameleon will strip more shells, more cleanly, longer.
The ultimate stripper, for brass models only with NO plastic parts . Berkibile 2+2 carburator cleaner. [:0] Use it outside over a metal trash can, wear eye protection and hold the model with tongs. [wow]

[CBQ_Guy]

It depends on the type of paint and plastic. There IS no one size fits all, a REAL model railroader would know that. [V]

[Anonymous]

For BACHMANN On30 lettering, 91% rubbing alcohol worked perfectly for removing lettering on freight and passenger cars. Use it sparingly so you don't remove other lettering or background paint. I lightly rub the cleaned section with a light wash of 70% after, followed by a water sponging and dabbing dry. Try to use as little 91% as possible to avoid a "too clean and shiny" area where you worked. You can mask other nearby lettering with a razor blade, and watch that you don't cappilary the alchohol into another letter that you want to keep.

[Anonymous]

Mr. Muscle (stove? U.S) oven(U.K.) cleaner. I've used this on plastic kits and the paint washes off under the tap (U.K.) faucet (U.S.). Put the item to be stripped in a plastic tub or similar and smother it in the foam. Check later, maybe two hours, maybe more.. and rinse and brush, even decals will come off with a little help. No damage to plastic (revell kits etc.) even clear canopies.... BUT IT IS CAUSTIC SO BE CAREFUL.....rubber gloves, eye protection, do not breathe vapour (G.B.) vapor (U.S.)

[Anonymous]

Except, I don't drink beer. Just some thoughts on what I use for my projects. Chameleon works very well as number "1", since I now use only Atlas, Kato, and Proto locomotives. I usually try and find undecorated units, but sometimes that is not possible. Walthers' freight cars are easily stripped in Scalecoat II, but I have had trouble using Chameleon on them.

[Anonymous]

Trying to remember fluid A for shell brand B&C but not for D, which uses fluid E which can be used on shell brand F, if only for a half hour, yada yada yada![xx(]
Uses up valuable beer time![;)]
Chameleon is all I ever use. It works consistently, it's never hurt anything.
Some might gripe about the cost, but what is your time worth? Let alone the cost of a wasted shell.
One hint. Strain it well after each use. It lasts longer!

[Anonymous]

I use a variety of paint removers, depending on what I am working on.

Kato: I use Chameleon Paint Remover, and nothing else. Kato's plastic will become brittle and crack very easily with Scalecoat II or other acetone-based removers.

Proto: Chameleon. Works very nice. Paint "sheets" off rather easily. No damage to the plastic.

Athearn, Walthers: Scalecoat II Paint remover. Only for these products. They appear to be the same kind of styrene underneath their paint.

Atlas: Chameleon. Period. Scalecoat II will work, too.

I also use a Microlux blaster with Aluminum Oxide for brass, and crushed glass for Plastic removal for stubborn paint. This is the item that is powered by a Shop Vac.

Thomas Austin
Centralia IL

[sparkingbolt]

Oh, about those commercial floor strippers, they have a strong odor! ('course, the smell reminds ME of money..) Dan

[sparkingbolt]

Take it from a floor maintenance contractor, guys! I use a floor wax stripper called "First Time" from Unisource. prob is, it only comes in 5 gal pails. Use it over night, straight. Use a tooth brush, rince with water. Don't get it on ya, either! use vinyl gloves, not latex.

Another brand is From Spartan products called Emulsifier Plus. You may be able to get that one in one gallon jugs. I dunno since I buy it for floors in large quantities.

If you are interested in this approach, call the janitorial supply places in the yellow pages. Make sure that the stuff you are using has Butyl or butylene in it. "First Time" is around 40 bucks a 5 gal pail. (you in a club?) Since it works better on floors than anything else, I'd assume it's the best for paint.

I have never seen it attack styrene. I once left some parts in a sealed can and forgot
about it, over a year went by, no damage!

[locomutt]

Personaaly, I use brake fluid,but using BUD!
use the brake fluid,then drink the Bud later[:D]

locomutt[8D]

P.S. Make sure if you used the Bud
to at least filter it,before you drink it![}:)]

[Anonymous]

91% isopropel acl. works best for me on n-scale.

[Anonymous]

I have used Polly-S paint remover with good results

[Anonymous]

like i stated before, chameleon is best for plastic, unlike elo, which i don't trust, due to the fact that it WILL craze and blemish plastic. i have let many shells sit in chameleon for days, and no damage at all!! it does not do any damage to plastic like elo does, or these "homemade" paint strippers some modelers use. if all else fails, start with a new shell, you will get better results that way, and make you a more satisfied modeler. i used elo before, ....never again. to me, if elo does this to plastic, it is no better than cleaners, car fluids,beer, etc. there is also a product out there called "joe's gel". it is a gel with very fine abrasive particles in it. it resembles LAVA liquid soap. get it at joe'smodeltrains.com. it works very slowly, and it may not strip all paint. if you want to remove paint off of small metal detail parts, try CA remover. it is not safe on plastic, or clear window plastic.

[krump]

from my experience, if the kids get really scared, their screams will peel the paint right off of the wall. (maybe that'll work...)

[Anonymous]

Pine sol for me for all acrylic paints, rinse well, paint comes off in 1 piece.
works very slowly and not too well on Rivarossi paint after a 1 day soak. Paint turns to a gel like sticky substance but does wipe off eventually.

[Anonymous]

Depends. 91% Iso Alcohol does the job on Proto 2000. Never tried a Kato. For older models, like Athearn, MDC, etc. Scalecoat #56 has worked well. Strips like the Energizer Bunny. When it gets murky, strain and filter it thru a paper towel and keep on strippin'.
FVRjake

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Robpar

Over the last two weekends, I've tried to remove the paint from a Proto2000 GP9 shell. My model is a Lifelike Canada model, in ONR colours. I tried that old standby, brake fluid, and it took the surface shine off the model, the lettering. I let it soak for an hour, scrubbed it with an old toothbrush, but most of the paint stayed on. I flushed the shell completely afterwards to remove any brake fluid residue.
This last weekend, I tried Windex after seeing that tip on a list some time ago. It took more of the colour off, but most of the paint is still there. It looks like a faded prototype now, but I'd like to strip it clean for repainting.
Any tips for P2K paint removal?

91% Alcohol works great on P2k and Proto1000 and Microtrains and Atlas n scale as well as Athearn and Stewart and Kato. I swear by it...break fluid eats KATO so watch out!

[Anonymous]

For Kato Engines, Dip for 6 hours in Pine Sol (real stuff, not dollar store knock offs), then wash and drop in 99% Rubbing Alcohol.

For P2K and P1K, straight 99% rubbing alcohol.

Athearn (older) I use 99% Rubbing Alcohol as well.

For engines already painted with Badger ModelFlex, 70% Rubbing Alcohol works well.

[Anonymous]

Use oven cleaner, the unscented kind. Let it sit for 1/2 hour or more, then scrub with a tooth brush, preferably an old one, or at least your wife's. Sometime's takes more that one application, but always works. I've used this even on VERY expesive resin race car kits, and it never damages the model.
Good Luck! - Mike Morrison

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by orsonroy
[If all else fails, I use my Paache air eraser (mini sandblaster). This will always take paint off, but it's also hard on plastic, so I really have to watch what I'm doing.

Have you tried baking soda as the blasting medium?

[orsonroy]

I use a variety of products when I strip paint off shells, depending on what manufacturer I'm dealing with. Mostly, I try to use 91% isopropyl alcohol first, since it's so inexpensive and better for you and your plumbing. Alcohol will strip most of what's out on the market today, including Accurail, Athearn, Bowser, Bachmann, Kato, Intermountain and Red Caboose. You sometimes have to let the shell soak for awhile (several hours) and perform repeat scrubbings, but it'll still work very well. I've never seen 91% alcohol attack anyone's plastic.

If the paint is particularly stubborn, I generally use Polly-S ELO. It's a bit cheaper than Chameleon, and easier to get, which is why it's my "hard paint" default. It'll strip "impossible" paint like Rivarossi and AHM. It'll also strip old Roundhouse and Athearn paints, but the shells can't sit too long in it, before the plastic starts to craze. Don't let shells sit in ELO for more than 1/2 hour!

If all else fails, I use my Paache air eraser (mini sandblaster). This will always take paint off, but it's also hard on plastic, so I really have to watch what I'm doing.

I stay FAR away from things like Pine Sol or brake fluid. Pine Sol will soften plastic, and I've had shells that smelled like Pine Sol for YEARS after I stripped the paint! Brake Fluid will generally work, but only the non-synthetic stuff, which is getting harder to find due to EPA regulations. It's also not very good for you.

[eastcoast]

I brush on Testor's paint thinner. Then ....
let it sit awhile and wipe off with cloth.
Clean with water and soap and repaint.
For best results, buy an undecorated model !!!!

[Anonymous]

I decided to repaint a Great Norther doodlebug to Canadian National green. I did not use any paint remover. I sprayed on light paint coats until the GN colour disappeared. Mind you I did not need to mask as I had taken the roof, trucks off first. placed the appropriate CN decals then spayed on a clear flat coat. Very good results.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Robpar

Over the last two weekends, I've tried to remove the paint from a Proto2000 GP9 shell. My model is a Lifelike Canada model, in ONR colours. I tried that old standby, brake fluid, and it took the surface shine off the model, the lettering. I let it soak for an hour, scrubbed it with an old toothbrush, but most of the paint stayed on. I flushed the shell completely afterwards to remove any brake fluid residue.
This last weekend, I tried Windex after seeing that tip on a list some time ago. It took more of the colour off, but most of the paint is still there. It looks like a faded prototype now, but I'd like to strip it clean for repainting.
Any tips for P2K paint removal?